I appreciate it brother!

It's not about how many days out you aerate, it's about reaching the 30% mark. I aerate every day until the yeast has consumed 30% of the fermentable sugars. Usually that's 3 or even 4 days out from pitching. I also feed with Fermaid O each time I aerate. Along with good temperature control and decent sanitation, it makes for very happy yeast and a very clean ferment. That means less nasty stuff when you distill.

I was just going to come and say this. like knowing that real stuff can happen and its not always gonna be perfect lol.

Deal!

The sanitizer can be left in and doesn't effect the process

Country Charlie well I appreciate it country Charlie!

I recon you will speed up the process if you add nutrient and diamonium phosphate. Do you need it? Hey you are getting results. The diamonium phosphate will help it along.

If your getting 9-10% you definitely do not need nutrients.

I’d love too however since that video we started a bottle silk screening company and launched or vodka. But I do love making videos, so we will see, lol.

Keep it simple stupid method, worked for me and it will work for everyone else J.Pilon.

@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 Nope ... dady, sugar and water in my parts will not ferment.

Musty Ditch need to ensure your ph is from 4 - 5.5. I neglected to say this as my water is adjusted before use.

@@mustyditch4703 how much sugar? If your are heading for over 15% then a locked ferment can occur. Ph as mentioned is important, choice if yeast also. Daddy should be fine to 15% but above that use a good yeast nutrient and Dextrose rather than sucrose. Dextrose will always brew cleaner but you have to add 10% more than sucrose.

Musty Ditch you need to use yeast nutrients if you use daft yeast.

Chad Adam thanks man

You answered your own question. You are correct. Yeast only produce ethanol in an anaerobic state. You introduce the oxygen to get the yeast a good head start in reproducing to get a good healthy colony. When the oxygen is used up by the yeast, they quit reproducing and get to work on that ethanol! I have never heard of opening it back up to do it on the 2nd day, but everyone has a method to their own personal madness. I aerate it like he does at the beginning, but then it's closed up until it's ready. Never had a problem. This is just his preferred method/opinion, and you know what they say about opinions... lol.

That would also work.

Appreciate it brother!

@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 some day love to have a still like that

Hardware store. Its a paint stirrer

after a day or 2 all the chlorine will be gone

Appreciate it:)

Ol George on barley and Hops has a great answer for this age old question. Aluminum is a ferrous metal making it totally appropriate for distilling. Of course it oxidizes and so does all metal, it contains no bad stuff as many will have you believe. I will warn you however, depending on the finish of said aluminum, it can scorch easily.

Thanks cheers. I did invest in a 40 qt SS induction ready pot w/lid.

@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 what the hell are you saying " Aluminium is a ferrous metal" bullshit.. A metal with the descriptor “ferrous” means that it has iron in its composition. (Fe) . Aluminium does not contain iron. A magnet will not stick to it. As for cooking (or fermenting) in uncoated aluminium, well it has been linked to early onset Alzheimer's and if not highly polished it deposits Aluminium oxide into the wash. That is why you must not use Aluminium in the manufacture of a still. Bloody hell mate you are dangerous ( not to mention sloppy and careless). How can you ever hope to get consistency and a repeatable outcome quality with those ad hoc measurements? Tis better to remain silent and let the world think of you as an idiot, than open your mouth and put the entire question beyond any doubt.

@@cjw7924 thank for the info, I would've bought aluminum 🤣

@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 Aluminum is "ferrous"???

I ferment open but covered without an airlock. The co2 that’s produced forms a protective layer. I’ve done this in Barbados where I live and also in Germany (summertime). In a closed container, when the liquid inside cools and contracts and forms a vacuum, for instance when the temperature drops at night, an airlock prevents air from being sucked in to restore atmospheric pressure. The air that is sucked in may bring in things harmful to the fermentation, dust, bacteria, spores, whatever u can imagine. If I were putting a fermenting bucket in a general use cupboard overnight, I would use an airlock, but if I have a dedicated workspace that’s kept clean, I wouldn’t use it. I’ve gotten foam-over with beer and wine with no problems in the final product...just don’t try to put the foam back in 😅 I’m new to distilling so I’m here to learn.

Yeah, if you take it down to the 5 range will help a lot.

@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 I am going to start checking and adjusting ph. I already do that with some gardening applications

I've seen many people use a paint stirrer (this one looks like a paint stirrer too), just look at what's around and buy one you like just for your mash/wash mixing.

HellRazer Antz? Where the fuck you live?

this is a basic video, he said that multiple times

I have never reused yeast before. I do plan on a dunder rum however.

Yes 30degrees Celsius, that's the ideal temp for yeast to do its thing

yes and 86 F

I've made thousands of sugar shines , I posted the method on my channel, but it's the simplest thing ever30g yeast, 3kg sugar 18litre water and a bit of Napa cabbage(300g) that works as a natural yeast nutrient. Nothing else finishes in a week starting gravity is1060 finishes .990 ....8% wash. Makes perfect neutral even from pot still.. The Napa cabbage does all the o2 work for you

Country Charlie I used it once and made a mess, haven’t used it since.

Hawke Prohibition Stills I’ve been pretty lucky so far. I was it good or a bad thing. I know another man GEORGE TOLD ME THE SOMETHING LOL I JUST FOUND YOUR CHANNEL, LOVE IT❤️👍 thank my friend

86

Barry Tipton I used turbo carbon once, I didn’t have much success, lol

Check for videos on it, plenty using it with positive results. Btw turbo carbon is the same as turbo clear is it not. Turbo clear has carbon, the black gunk in part A.

@@mrbrown3546 Turbo clear is not carbon, its fish parts and gross stuff but it works.

@@hawkeprohibitiondistilleri3761 your correct, and thank you. The pack actually states the full ingredients... Pays to read occasionally eh. The turbo clear is part A and turbo carbon is part B, so very much different from each other... Used together yes but not the same.

You mention tdr.in the tap water...what is it.? . Not sure this guy is still in business.... I requested pricing for some still parts a while back..no answers

@@capitaldd5840 TDS? total dissolved solids.

Your country must suck if your water is that bad.

lol, bro, you have no clue..... I have used standard city water straight of the tap for YEARS, and HUNDREDS of gallons of finished product and have NEVER had any issues. you worry WAYYYYYYY too much about ph and crap like that. it literally does not matter. seriously, it does not matter at all. stop trying to "science" stuff that just doesnt need it. remember, people have been distilling for hundreds of years without all your fancy "science" junk. distilling just doesnt need it.

A chemist talking about bigfoots dick, i want to know what you do sir? I did mention in comments what the Ph should be, my video skills and patience did not allow me to re edit, lol. So much has happened since then and skills have refined greatly, videos in the future will as well. I have much more to talk about.

Using grains, for me, creates a problem. What do you do with all the spent grains? Too much to flush. (Ask my plumber when I stopped up the whole shebang with corn) I throw it in the yard and it just sits there for days and days. Birds here don't like it until it's been there a while, and the obvious evidence of what you're doing just sits in the open. I don't have any pigs or chickens, but still enjoy my hobby of making alcohol. I've been doing so with sugar washes for quite a while now. When I first started with just a small pot still, I would get a taste I didn't like and no matter how many times I re-ran it, it was still there. Even ageing that stuff for over 3 years reduced the taste but didn't make it go away completely. I tried many different yeasts. I've never had a good experience with a "turbo yeast" yet. I've since graduated to a much better/bigger column still. The taste that I got with my pot still is gone and I have made many sugar wash runs with AMAZING results. I have a bunch of gallon mason jars. I buy bags of chipped up "Major whiskey maker" smoking chips which is just chewed up whiskey barrels. I wash those well in a sink with cool water, dehydrate them dry again, then add to the jars, fill with alcohol, and seal up in my shed for a year or more. I have yet to hear anything but, "That's amazing! I can't believe you MADE that yourself!" I've been asked to sell it, but never sold a drop. It's hard enough to just keep up with enough for myself and buddies that come over! lol. I leave a few gallons of water and the dead yeast in the bottom of my fermenting barrel after a run and just throw in scalding hot water on top to make sure all the old yeast is dead. Yeast can mutate over time and give you bad results, so I just use new every time. Yeast nutrient is mostly just dead yeast, so I never add any. 1 lb Fleischmann's yeast, 100 lbs sugar, and 50 gals water. It ferments down to .995 to .997 for me. I let it work and settle for about a month to clear up, then run it. Stripping run first, then spirit run. No grains to dispose of. Short story long, sugar washes can work amazingly well, but everything matters. Water maters, yeast matters, distilling equipment and methods matter, ferment temperatures matter, cuts matter... Ask 100 distillers a question, and you're likely to get 100 different answers and most will swear that only THEIR way is right. Find what works for you. If something messes up, start over and throw it in with the next run! Peace!

Sugar wash is just for a first run to get a base distillation that you add into the proper distilling run with your true fermentation that has the flavor. the sugar distilation is just used to boost the proof in your boiler and give a better yield of final product without wasting unecessary amounts of grain.

What I was thinking.