Clear, cogent descriptions made this tutorial a delight. I especially appreciate the embedded picture of the bit with its case; I wish more CNC videographers would include this simple expedient. Very nice!

Very nice work, I've been trying to make inlays with my x-carve and your videos are really helpful . Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Beautiful work! I’m going to try the ball nose bit to do my vcarves next time. Don’t under sell yourself, you’re good! MTMWOOD, BROINWOOD and you are who I strive to do work like.

Been following your builds for a while and really appreciate the effort you go to in making your videos. I’m new to Cnc and adding your feeds and speeds, bits and methodology is a massive help - thank you.

You put a lot of work in your projects. Good work

Your videos are so informative keep them coming

I love it. Beautiful work

Quel beau boulot encore une fois !

Very Nice video and stunning cutting board. Thanks for sharing your work. It is truly Inspiring!

Damn that is a lot of work, you basically made 3 signs for 1. Looks awesome!

Great project. Thanks for sharing.

Had an idea after watching this. You could do all your inlays then machine a pocket in the backside to the correct depth then backfill with epoxy and cap it with small inlay on the back.

Superbe réalisation 😉👍

Good work 👍👍👍

Большое Вам спасибо. Только после Вашего видео я смогла разобраться с этой техникой ! Спасибо!!!

Nicely done! thanks for doing this video. Finally someone has addressed the hollowness below the inlay!

I have been doing this for years now (Inlay Cutting Boards and using epoxy to support the plug), But I give you awesome credit for taking the time to show and tell others how to do it. Unlike others who think they are going to give away a super secret or ones like myself simply because I am just not into making video One thing I can suggest is try some of the 5 min epoxy it will speed up your timeline, and also watch the epoxy on some end grains that are porous as the grains are like an open straw and the epoxy will sometimes seep to the other side, hence another reason to use the fast cure epoxy. Again awesome job.

Fantástico parabéns pelo belo trabalho, você poderia fazer um vídeo mostrando o passo a passo para gerar o gecod deste belo trabalho.

Like the idea of using cnc to cut out profile of the inlay instead of bandsaw. One more part of the process that can get automated.

PSA: Tapping with a hammer (17:28) is a critical step. You can see the piece shifting down. I did not do that & paid dearly. So is clamping at the entire perimeter, against the piece itself, with multiple clamps.

Great Video. Thanks for sharing the bits you use. Was wondering what your cut depths are, start depth, flat depth for the male and female plugs. I still struggle with this.

AMAZING ! 👍👍

Bonjour, toujours du super boulot ! Je suis vraiment admiratif de ce type de travail qui me donne envie d'approfondir la discipline (je n'ai fait qu'un modeste essai jusqu'à présent). Tu fais des passes de combien avec quel feedrate avec la fraise droite 3.175 de CNCFraise ? Avec ta future fraise à surfacer, il faudra songer à redresser ta broche qui semble pencher un peu ;)

Stephan, you HAVE to get yourself a bandsaw. It will save you tons of time. Great work as usual. Thanks for all the explanation

Hello! I must say you have a wonderful channel and a nice way of showing how to do this without all the extra music and effects of other channels, which I appreciate greatly. I have two questions, if you feel like answering them of course. My first question is, can a CNC like this handle a broader bit for the finalizing passes, so that you do not have to use a 6 mm bit but maybe something like 10 or 12 mm to do the flattening with a small overlap, or would the torque simply become to great for the spindle motor and make it burn out? And second, have you ever tried using the sawdust as a filler material for double/triple pass carvings? I see you use quite a lot of solid wood of course, but what are your thoughts on using a sawdust and epoxy/glue filler, and do you think it would work with multiple pass inlays like this, or would it possibly crumble and become torn out easily as opposed to solid wood? It seems to me that the epoxy in this takes well to being carved by bits like these, but I have no first hand experience with it sadly. As someone with way too many craft hobbies and therefore a limited budget for each one in addition to a small wish to reuse leftover materials and such, I feel that if I could sweep up the dust and and repurpose it into a sort of filler, that would probably cut back on the need to get more materials for each project, especially for the more expensive wood types, as it seems like sawdust is quite abundant after carving on these machines. It would perhaps give an interesting contrast in texture too, maybe. In any case, thank you for this wonderful content!

Howdy, I am very interested in the vcarve technique you used to allow for the lettering "Harley Davidson" to be raised letters in the recess, and the mating plug that has the cutouts for those letters. Do you have a video illustrating that technique perchance? Or where I might see such in action? Thanks, Bill

Thanks for sharing tour work. For the inlay you have a black wood...which wood Is?

C’est incroyable ! Si je réussi un jour à faire une planche comme la tienne, je vais être aux anges. Merci pour le partage et j’ai déjà hâte de voir ta prochaine vidéo. Petite question tandis que j’y pense, peux-tu partager le lien du logo Harley ce serait grandement apprécié. Merci encore.

Super vidéo :) ou est-ce que tu te fournis pour le bois ?

Great work and nice filming👍👍. I am pretty new to working with CNC inlays and would love to do better inlays. Is it possible that you can attach a link for the bits you are using?? Keep up the great work😀😀

Excellent work and video! Can you publish some guidelines you use for depth of female socket and height of male plug based upon the general width of the inlay please. A dust shoe would be a great addition to your CNC when not making videos....

Pretty cool but I’m confused how you clamped the first peace but was able to keep it at zero on cnc thanks

i am the 56 viewer XD .. i really enjoy your Chanel

Hi Stephen The islands you can specify the depths of the inlay In preparing the female for the placement of the male? (Mmm) I have a small problem that there is no perfect match and there are no spaces left in the intermediate placement Thanks

I've pored over all of your videos, and I'll echo everyone else: they are fantastic and very educational. But I have a question if I may. I've had great success with the Zank inlay technique with V-bits at or above 30 degrees of angle. Like you, I decided to look at alternatives and found both the spiral tapered ball nose bits, as well as the Huhao engraving bits. But - I can't for the life of me get the "classic" Zank math of "depth of cut = reach into the pocket and flat depth = length sticking out" to work with any bits set as engraving bits. I've checked and rechecked the angles, but at the end of the day I'm left with a table of known depths that an inlay will stick into the pocket at any given depth of cut. Have you had to modify the Zank math in any way when using an engraving bit, or is something extremely odd with my Shapeoko? Again, thank you for all your videos!

Bonjour Stephan, Très content de cette AUREUS 3X j’imagine...? Je souhaite franchir le cap, des conseils? Merci 👍

Great work, congrats!!! Where did you buy the bits?

Regarding food safe finishes I bought some cutting board oil on Amazon (250ml for €16 + delivery). After some research I went to the chemist and bought 500ml of liquid paraffin for €9.50. The 2 products are identical !

Another beautiful job. What woods did you use?

two parts were made with a fi 6-10 degree milling cutter? because there is poor visibility in the photo when milling this brown part?

you can significantly turn up your feeds and speeds, as in the first pocketing cut you had lots of dust instead of chips... i think you could stand to run your machine a bit faster. Really enjoyed the vid and love the end result

Did you use the same start and flat depths for everything? Do you vary them based on size of the inlay?

It seems like you could win a bunch of time back by increasing your plunge rate, especially with the v-bit. Have you tried?

2:00 "Flattening takes 40 minutes" What are your thoughts on a flattening bit? Is it not suitable for end-grain?

Stephan just an advice , i use a 6*28 mm Flattening tool and its a mazing ,its takes really a short time to do the job , just set the cutting depth at 1.2 mm :)

Hello are that use resin for finished ? Or clear for wood ?

Would using epoxy as the wood glue for the first inlay do the trick?

I am just a beginner to CNC but why don't you use a larger cutter for the levelling the workpiece ? Thanks

Nice job! But wouldn’t it be faster to use a different bit for planing your piece?

Bonjour, conseil précieux, quel est le logiciel utilisé pour faire le gcode? Merci

What thickness is the boards for the inlays before carving into them

Where can I find the v bit used in this video?

looks great but why not just use epoxy for the initial glue up?

Why not use a larger bit for the flattening?

On your "Motorcycles" part, you effectively have a zero glue gap, correct? You drilled to the exact amount. If you can do this for part 2, why can't you do this for part 1? You wouldn't need the epoxy then. On my attempt, I left a glue gap of 0.6mm. Small enough to effectively become a glue joint

Googly eyes. Makes anything better 👀

great video you can cut a lot of time by investing in a bandsaw

Nooooo. How can you sit there for 40 minutes waiting for one side to be flattened? I would tear my hair out haha. And then sitting at 250mm/min with a 4 flute bit? I can't. Doesn't that bit squeal a lot from the rubbing? It needs to run a lot faster. I run a 2 flute 6mm bit at 1800mm/min. And that's when I'm trying to be careful. I think we need to get you some more bits Stephan. I have some 3 flute and 2 flute bits if you want them. Just send me an address to post them to. Great work by the way!

Salut, tes videos sont tres intéressante, mais pourquoi en anglais, car il y en a des centaines sur ce sujet dans cette langue. Merci et bonne continuation, je reste abonné bien sur.

LE BAGUETTE?

Use surfboard epoxy being that shallow, it cures in 45min.

Nice but it's time for a stronger faster cnc. 40min for such a small surface. Hehe

I follow you and am to get s good as you but your machine must be stronger than the xcarve and have to change some of you cut settings deep dosing vidios

Don't you just end up with the same potential fitment issues you are trying to avoid in the first place?

Dommage pas en français

Bonjour ont a pas accès au soutire sur la vidéo 😒