July 1965 Mel Knoepp report
A pastime that has been a common way of life for thousands of young men for years, particularly in Southern California, suddenly has gained status. Despite the unfortunate reputation that some shaggy, irresponsible participants have given it-surfing has become a sport. Almost like tennis, golf, or waterskiing. You don’t have to be an expert to stay on a board in moderate waves such as this one. (Of course, the sport becomes even more sporting in the big waves-at Hawaii or Australia. They say those are the mammoth ones that resemble moving Matterhorns. The beach boys and beach bunnies will tell you that there--only the pros need try; only the experts try more than once. Here in Southern California, however, the surf usually is smaller. But when the surf is up everyone from the gremmies (beginners) to the hot doggers (trick artists) is out there on his slab shooting the curl, riding the shoulder. And San Diego has established itself as one of the top surfing spots in the world. The surf isn’t the greatest but many of the surfers are. The Windansea Surf Club for instance has more world champions in its ranks than any other such organization. But then surfing is better organized here than anywhere else in the world. And San Diego stands a chance to get the 1966 Surfing Championships next year. Mayor Frank Curran has sent an invitation to the Us Surfing Association asking that the big event be staged here next summer. It was held in Peru this year. Probably the most unfortunate aspect of the whole sport is the surfer’s image. Surfing clubs such as Windansea under the driving leadership of surfer Thor Svenson have been organized to try to improve that image as well as to stage competition. Traditionally many so-called surfers were nothing more that beach bums: young men and women who had nothing else to do but hang around the shore and when they got restless, cause trouble. Beach area residents know them well: backyard fences broken up and carted off for beach fires, trampled geraniums, beer can littered driveways. But the San Diego police department reports that complaints are becoming fewer in number every year. Says one police captain: “We get much less trouble now from the surfers than in the past. Our new policy might help-when a surfer is cited-we also seize his board for 3 weeks and that really cramps his style.” No wonder this sport is one of the fastest growing athletic endeavors in the world. Anyone can see the thrill, the pure exhilaration of participating in an activity that gives you exercise, fun and excitement. But for every beginner, the lesson has to be learned: stay out of the soup. Some of the more spectacular dives are called pearling as in pearl diving. Generally, this is known as wiping out. A magnificent wipe out is given the euphemistic title of taking gas. Everyone takes gas sometime; the trick is to look dignified doing it. The experts’ credo reads: “Even a wipe out can be achieved gracefully.” When the surfing area is crowded on a rough day-it’s known as a matchstick factory. Some of these shots were taken at Windansea; some at Pacific Beach. Maybe the surf here isn’t as gigantic as Pipeline or Makaha in the islands. And perhaps that’s just as well. Refinements in surfing competition have produced specialties. A recent surfing event featured only nose riding events. The object is to walk forward on the board and see how long you can stay there. In competition the boy staying longest on the nose-the board’s nose-not his-wins. The real expert is the one who can hang 10 and put all 10 toes over the front of the board. As the story goes, surf boarding was invented by the Polynesians back in the 17th century. More certain is the fact that it has been popular in Southern California for dozens of years. And the serious surfers are attempting to straighten out the hodads who have given them all a bad name. The image is improving as the surfers themselves mature.