Trying to surf my first barrel ever! I have set the goal of achieving my first barrel this year. Conditions were perfect that day to try and tackle this goal.
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Picture-perfect waves, ridden by absolute shredders are everywhere these days. Now let’s be real, most of us did not grow up surfing and do not live in Hawaï. This channel is about sharing what surfing is really like for the average person.
I started surfing at 25 and live in France, so my reality involves a lot of subpar conditions, cold water and sometimes, when the stars align, some epic waves. But be it small, choppy or pumping, I don’t care. As long as I can drop in and do a turn, I am out there!
Shot on the DJI Osmo Action 4, 2.7K (4:3) at 60FPS, with RockSteady.
Board : Olaïan Shortboard 900, 5'10", 30L.
Location : South West France