I agree.

My biggest fear is the ocean but its also my favorite thing

+Raphael Menudier waw really??? am even scared of small wave but am scared to go far to a place where my feet dont touch the floor. i dont swim. but i like to surffff in dreams of course :D

+Raphael Menudier can we ware a suit to not drown and go surf even if we dont know how to swim? i like to start learnin on small wave

+sirenaluna1 Sure i think you should wear a life jacket, And knowing how to swim is recommended, And stick with the 1 or 2 meter first, For that i dont think you really need the life jacket if you know how to swim Else just wear it so you are sure about it. I am no surfer but i jumped from 2 lessons of snowboarding to the 2nd and 3rd years experienced people, And i have felt how strong water is even if i know how to swim its a tough fight against the waves. And most of all have fun.

Good description. Pretty accurate for when you're getting worked in just 8-10ft rather than 20+ chopes.

don't they have those inflatable vests or is it to shallow

And then you see the second lip break over you.

baymtl Bare in mind that where the wave starts its a deep ocean water but the actual waves crash onto a rocky shallow reef. Some places just 6-10ft so many get injuries here. The sudden force from the ocean and the surface create this type of wave

Either way, they are trained and take precautions. They know what theyre doing, and when. If someone is scared, hes ending up dead in such waves for sure.

Mate one day I will be surfing these waves being high on LSD

@@MrTwat144 6-10 ft is way more than I've seen in videos quite a few where the reef is actually exposed in the impact zone. You gotta be okay with dying or convinced you won't if you're surfing here.

@@TheMrExemplar this reads beautiful 💜

Riding these ones is the best but only if you can hold your breath for like 3 min

@@3funny5me23 yep....

That's literally a tsunami

easy honey :>

Captain Durp wtf😂

santa cruz?

Then watch shipstern buff surfing

Hold my hand

Niels i know it’s tiny haha but i started surfing 1 year ago

I dont scare waves, even if they 20ft more . I dont know how to surf already

olivia lavanga for real? im surfing since 3 months and already went for up to 8ft waves ^^

@@bilalyildirim8023 "waves scare you", not "you scare waves" ...

iv surfed 7ft waves I needed 5 of my friends to talk me in to even going in the water

RoNiNk these guys can hold their breath for several minutes. That definitely helps :-)

They have vest filled with air they can pop

Samuel Adams they train u mean for this

RoNiNk have you seen the scene in 0:55

mirco antonica n

Ye I agree with that. I am french and like 5 months ago we went to biarritz with my dad. I stayed there 2 days, the waves were gigantic, some could legit hit 20 freakin feet high. I tried to surf some but like the small one, and tried to dodge the big ones (almost impossible to do with a surf board). Then I saw a wave that was like 12 feet high. It was really the perfect opportunity because it was legit going to break EXACTLY on me. So I didnt think, I just got on my surf board and tried to ride it. But the little problem is that Im 13 and my surfboard is like the ones you find for 20$ or idk what. So the wave crushed, and crushed me at the same time. I rided it for like 0.5 seconds before the fukin power of the wave legit drowned me underwater and maked me go back to the border (I was at like 50 feet far). So yea really incredible x')

@@newera1739 bruh r u brainwashed these waves in the video are 20 ft idiot

chill as physically as possible

And they say most accidents happen in the home, so he may also be safer than you are in your living room. Life is weird.🤔

😀 now ! U have 9 lakh subscriber

Barry Lewis im scared you have the same last name as me

+Sanket Chavan half a second, but the next half second you're on the bottom, then up, then down... Unless you get stuck into the bottom rocks of course... This is called the "washing machine" :).

+Sanket Chavan it depends on a number of factors but usually not that long here because much of the power dissipates on the initial impact. Places where the wave kind of keeps on rolling as white water after it breaks like Jaws are much worse for hold downs. Most of the drowinings at Teahupoo and similar waves like Pipeline will be secondary to concussion/head trauma.

Daniel Goldin thnx for the elaborate reply.

Longest I've been under is like 12-15 seconds but when you're down there it feels like forever

With a month practice you can make it up to 2-3 minutes easily.

Massive OOF

Probably the most extreme ride of all here

Tell me that's a tsunami, seriously..

lmao fr

Yep and i think the board owner is following his board onto the fall. He is the real hero on this wave. Not raimana.

This shits scary bruh 💀😵

Y

+Sub And I'll Give You Free Potato Juice cuz he took out the other guy? Maybe?

no reason, it was the green board guys wave, and he didn't fall...

no... priority works by whoever has front side... the guy who fell has priority on the wave because he was in front

MatteWolf no, its who is deeper in the barrel, and the guy with the green board was definitely deeper in

Ya, they train to support all the pressure :p

Most of them can hold their breath for several minutes often necessary to survive.

First of all u don’t panic and then if know how to swim and when u have to take the breath everything is ok

@@sofiasilon819 lol what a throwback. Thank you!

You acutally don't resist so you save oxygen and get thrown around untill you feel no more turbulences. After that you follow your surf board to the surface i road waves like 2/3 of this and i almost died💀

R.I.P

rose luckyin Look at a number 3, long toe.

rose luckyin What size you should get depends on your size and how good your movement is on the board.

ik it is a little late to say what board you should get but i love thurso surf lancer!

All the amazing things are dangerous and hard to get! ..except for a mother of course 😊

Yeah... He's so cool!

Ikr WTF

big waves like these the guys have life jackets

i didnt know about the life jackets, but that makes sense. also I once watched a docummentary with Carlos Burle which is a legend on giant wave surfing and it showed a little bit of the training they do to be prepared for moments like these. They breathed out of a bottle, they also trained a lot of apnea . Because once you are wiped out from a wave like this, you usually stay quite a bit under the water, so you must have a really good apnea training to not drown. There were other exercises, but I forgot. Either way I still wonder, this being a coral reef, how do they not get smashed into the rocks, in normal conditions people are get smashed and get major cuts, on conditions like these I dont know what could happen.

"we don`t have any floating material (only the surf board itself). You just take in as much air as you can before diving, then you let the turbulence of the water play with you without trying and resist because its just too powerful. When things start to feel better you need to understand what position is your body in underwater, so that you can start to make your way to the surface. The surf board will get back to surface before you and pull you by the leash with which the board is attached to your ankle, and you know that`s the direction you need to follow to get back up. It`s like being washed in a super powerful washing machine. Many times you think that there is no way you can hold your breath any longer but somehow you do... Your limbs are stretched and pulled apart with violence and you really are absolutely helpless for very long seconds. Sometimes you get back to the surface just in time, or at list it feels so. I hope I gave you an idea of how things work for a surfer." This is one of the comments i saw. Credits to +KSA Saami

BloomingfieldHD It’s a lot of skill. The wave does throw you down and you get pushed under. You have to stay calm and not trash and wait. Freaking out is gonna lessen your chances. Also, the board itself can hit you in the head and knock you out. Surfers learn to calm themselves and hold their breath. I’m only an amateur and the biggest wave I’ve surfed was 18 feet which was crazy for me and a lot of people but a piece of cake compared to this.

I would, thats the calmest part of the wave

weera warakul The ocean is a powerful goddess.. So much energy and the capacity to take a life, but she also gives life. She gives life to all the organisms that live inside her and like to play with her. It's all so beautiful..

do you even know how to surf?

Brendan Ours who ever is closer to where the wave hits the watef has priority

+Kzi240 XD me to.

Charlie don't surf

Thats not an edit :c