Yes it is scary when things go too easy. Makes you think is this right? Made a bunch of trips since video and I love this 4 stroke Suzuki more than ever.

This is my first 4 stroke, I don't think I would even consider a 2 stroke.

Thanks

I just put out another video on fuel system maintenance. for the DF90. I really like this motor, as for fuel usage it is just great about the same as my old 25 2 stroke Johnson. Hope your health gets better soon and you can enjoy the boat.

Isnt it better with black color for the Eyes reflection

@@martinnilsson5295 It doesn’t bother me as far as the color, I love the cool white color. It goes good with my boat, blue & white, off course black would go well with it also. It’s just preference, I just like the white. LoL 👍

I did a fuel system video on the same motor titled (Suzuki Outboard Fuel System Maintenance). Will do a anode video soon. Thanks for watching.

Thanks!

I have Ford race cars but I drive A GMC truck! Want to make sure I can get the cars back home.

@@SRadigFishing Great reply!

No prop shaft replacement yet! Hope not for a while.

I hope to do a video on replacing the anodes soon.

@@SRadigFishing 👍

Will do in the near future.

Not yet, I am having trouble finding them locally. Guess I need to internet order them.

Thanks for the tip, will try at next service.

Not yet, but will do one in the future.

I second this! My 2013 DF90 just hit 200 hrs and I think it should be pretty simple if this was relatively easy

I would be lying if I said I used a torque wrench or had a torque speck. I use my judgement from years of mechanic work for the tightness.

Not sure of the problem, sounds like some plugging issue. Just double check to see if they sold you the right impeller.

@@SRadigFishing Iv tried 2 now, can’t find and difference apart from the new ones are very hard on the blades !!! Is this correct?

@@shaunsouthern7931 I think so, the new one I had was hard to get into the Impeller Cup. Only other thing is to check which way the shaft turns and install with the impeller blades folded in the right direction. They should self correct direction but just grabbing at straws now.

I just used a marine grade grease I got from the dealer that I bought the motor from.

Thanks for the advice, will add to future videos.

I worked for Chevron Oil Additives (Oronite) for 27 years, I was going to give a speech about oil additive properties and the importance of following the manu. recommendations but did not want to sound like a know it all. I am glad to get your reply, Thanks.

@@SRadigFishing Interesting subject. I know a retired purchasing agent who bought oil additives for shell. I always ask him many questions. (Feel free to give a speech) I will google Oronite

@@martinschulz9381 Oronite, Lubrizol and Shell are the 3 big players in the additive business and all 3 basically make the same products. They buy, sell and trade with each other. Their additive packages are similar and all good. Sometimes they use the same packages to save on engine testing costs. Additives make up about 10% of a quart of upper tier oils. When a TV commercial makes a claim it has been tested at engine facilities where they weigh each part before and after a specified run time and also in taxi fleets, they have proof of their claims. Same with Outboards. Nothing will kill a 2 stroke outboard faster than cheap oil!

@@SRadigFishing Thanks for replying. This purchasing agent I know mentioned Lubrizol and also said that Shell and Chevron often work together in producing product. The next time I see him I will ask him about Oronite. What do you think about all this big synthetic oil hype/buzz? Many turbo charged over the road semi trucks go over a million miles on conventional Chevron Delo. Also, What do you think about this big Amsoil oil craze that has consumed so many guys? Just curious.

@@martinschulz9381 On synthetics, when the base oil is made from gasification (Natural Gas Based) they are starting of with a pure carbon molecule. Unlike crude oil based which are a made from a bunch of different carbon chains that have to be refined. Starting off with a pure base oil and adding exact additive packages for wear, corrosion and other properties does make for a better product. Additive are classed as detergent which self explains, anti wear usually a sacrificial zinc molecule and chemicals that keep combustion particles in suspension to be filtered out and not bind to the internals. This is a quick easy talk on additives of course it is a lot more complicated. An example is railroad engines (EMD's)have a silver type bearing and cannot have any zinc based wear additive. That is an example of using the wrong oil will actually destroy an engine!

I am sure that fogging would only help for that long of storage. Maybe restart with old plugs in then swap to new ones if needed.

@@SRadigFishing How does one go about fogging a fuel injected engine? Pull the plugs and simply spray the cylinders and replace the plugs?

Yes and turn over the motor by hand to with the flywheel to evenly coat the cylinders@@benjimolina6959

I like the idea, It is way better than letting the salt dry inside. You gave me an idea when I travel with my motor and I will try the same. Thanks.

I was pitting a lot of yearly hours on the motor but now I don't use the boat as much so I just do a yearly oil change.

I get the same fuel usage as I used to with a 25 horse 2 stroke Johnson on a 16 foot flat. This motor is awesome on fuel which is important now with the current prices! Plus this motor is a whole other level of quiet.

@@SRadigFishing thanks for the info! Sounds like I made the right choice, my 90 will be pushing a 23 ft Tahoe GT fish pontoon.

I believe the 70 and my 90 are basically the same engine. Should be exactly the same for each. I would bet even the impeller kit part numbers are the same.

Thank you for the reply. Not on here much. Thinking of doing my sacrificial diodes. But I run freshwater and engine is a 21 don’t think it needs them changed. How do yours look? Talk soon I’ll come back to check this time 😂

I would check the owners manual but that sounds about right.

Yes but I let it totally dry before starting to make sure the electrical system is not compromised.

Yes I keep it in neutral. I don't think it matters what position just as long as nobody changes the controller position while off.

@@SRadigFishing Thank you, sir. Tight lines!

Mainly just look for corrosion and keep it clean. I have a friend with over 3000 work boat hours on his without any problems.

I change them every year but forgot to buy them for this video.

I use a marine grease that I bought from the Suzuki dealer. Any marine grease will work.

Lubriplate #105, it was all I had this day.

No, four stroke gas motor.

It is a 18/60 flat with a fantail, GPS at 43mph max.

It is a Tims Custom Flat from Chalmette.

Sounds good, thank you! I have a 18/60 alweld trying to decide on 90 or a 115

@@matthewguidry5570 Tim's would only go to a 90, they said it wasn't rated for a 115 for insurance reasons. If I had the choice I would have went with the 115. More horsepower is always better since they are about the same weight.