Dude you're good at these... HD helps a LOT. My only criticism is that your DR650 is way cleaner than a DR650 has a right to be. :-) You should probably come to Southern Utah and we can fix that problem in a day or two.

Thanks for demystifying valve checks and adjustments for us. In Canada, my mechanic would charge me a minimum of 4 hours to do this job which would be $400! He also grimaced when I asked about it. I'd rather do it myself so that I know how to do it in the future and don't have to deal with overly expensive charges and a reluctant mechanic. Quality of the video is fantastic. Cheers :)

Jaetheo, just wanted to say thank you for this video and for answering questions in the comment section. It's been years since you posted this but it's a treasure. You're a class act. Thank you so much for the beautiful tutorial! -Rob

not sure if it makes a difference but the Suzuki shop manual says to line up the line-not the “T”. The T is just the label for the line

Good video and this will help with my first DR650. Another option besides vice grips on the extension is to simply use a breaker bar.

This is a great video and tutorial. Camera work made everything much clearer to me. Thank you.

Thanks for the vid - seeing it done makes reading the manual a lot easier to understand.

Awesome video. It takes all the mysteries out of valve adjustments.

Very well put together tutorial. Doing the valves tonight, and I wanted to see what I needed to look for with the TDC thing.

Way to go Jae!! Nice tutorial! Having adjustable rocker arms is really nice, another reason to love the zuke!!!

There is a major problem !! The significant wear of the valves occurs at the seat in the head and the contact point with the valve itself. When this wears down the valve clearance gets SMALLER. The .004 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust is the MINIMUM because of the wear in the seat. If you set the valves at the minimum your bike will SOONER get to the point where the wear causes the clearance to disappear, at which point the valve will stay open and burn up. It is better to adjust the valves from the average UP to the MAXIMUM. In your case .006 to .008 intake and .010 to .012 for exhaust. Doing this will give you 2 or 3 times the mileage before damage occurs due to TIGHT no clearance valve. Do not exceed the maximum. Above the maximum another problem developes with noise and the top of the valve gets mushroomed from the spike load from the adjustment screw, caused by the sudden ramp up. Think of it like if you took a hammer from 1 inch above a nail vs a hammer blow 6 inches above the nail.

I love your custom choke handle dude! Good video!

That's a damn fine production quality mate.

Thank you very much jaetheo. I have a 2013 and will do the adjustment this weekend. I have waited too long to do the adjustment as I'm at 2,700 miles but I should be OK. I called the dealer and they said just make sure you don't get close to 7,000 miles before you do it.

Thanks for watching. With the right tools the job is quite easy to do. I did see that Procycle now offers a little $10 Valve Adjustment Driver that they print on their 3D printer and it looks like it has a round head square-drive screw for the tip. Just as easy to make your own though.

Bravo with the wood screw trick for a square socket. Emphasize to NEVER make the adjustment with the feeler gage in between the adjuster and the valve. I have seen so many people do this it boggles my mind. Thanks for showing it done correctly.

Greetings from Czech. Thx a lot i didn´t know how the Tline looks like and u revealed this little thing to me.

Great video! I'll be using this as a guide in the Fall to check my DR650's valves.

I have no internet where the bikes are kept so ill be bringing my DR into the living room (again LOL) to follow your guidance on my laptop. Thank you for putting this together

That is some info I needed on timing. My bike is a vl800 Volusia though and not so easy to get to the valves on it. Thanks for the informative video.

Great vid. Love the screw trick. Thank you.

Great video. Great views...so close. So easy..thanks man..!!

Nice video , thanks for taking the time to share

Greetings WOW, what a fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🍾🎉🇺🇸. Keep producing more videos.

Thanks John. I shot it on my new Nikon D5100. It was a much needed upgrade over my 10 yr old Canon point n' shoot.

thank you! tips were helpful...happy trails...

Nice tip re the square head screw, ingenuity at its finest. As we do ;-)

Nice, pretty, clean machine. ... One lucky bike !

nicely done very helpful thanks

Good video,thank you.

very nice video!

I made a similar tool using a Robertson screw for adjusting the 16 valves on my Bandit.

Scar tissue by RCHP disturbed me a bit... :D Great video, thank you very much!

I really appreciate the professionally produced tutorial, this is extremely helpful. Where did you find the square head deck screw? I went to Lowes and Home Depot the other day and didnt find any square headed ones in the wood screw section. Also, is it a specific one, like a #8 or something? Wikipedia indicates that there are a number of different Robertson screw head sizes, but I'm guesseing its 1/8". Of course if I have to buy a big box of screws I might as well just buy the procycle thing.

+2phalanges, the purpose for the valves is to open and close at the top of the cylinder head to allow the gas/air mix in, and a separate set open to allow the exhaust gases to escape. Over time, parts can wear down and the valve clearances change. This procedure helps to get the valves opening at the right time and the right amount.

Big thanks for this!

Awesome 👏

Good quality video. Not sure if anyone has advised you, but the Suzuki Maintenance Manual says "Turn the crankshaft until the T line on the magneto rotor is aligned with the center of the hole on the magneto cover"

A very short breaker bar is also great for turning the engine instead of vice grips. I think it's the only time I've ever used mine

im a beginner, but whats the purpose of valve check and adjustment? thanks friend.

In: 0.08-0.13 out 0.17-0.22 according the user manuan by suzuki! Thnks 4 video!!

Thanks! I aim to please. Let me know if there is anything else you would like to see.

Great video no e scene trick.

I bought the procycle adjustment tool and its a 1/8 inch wide opening, one that takes a #2 square drive bit. The feeler gauges they sell are bent at 45 degrees and their blade is half the width of a standard feeler gauge (about 7mm vs 15mm). Some swear this makes a difference.

I was under the impression you weren't supposed to bend shims because they were so fine measured it would throw it out of wack. Good to know that's not a problem.

+twangthing no, you do not have to drain the oil. According to the service manual, the only thing you should really keep in mind is that the motor needs to be cold when you check this. So do it on a weekend before you take it out riding. jaetheo thanks for the tutorial. I have no idea how the heck you got your engine to look that beautiful, but feel free to come do it to mine.

Yeah, I had to have it clean. The first time I did this, I did not clean things off well, and a little dirt fell down in. I had to spend a while cleaning it, since there is engine oil in there that would carry it down into the rest of the engine.

so, was it clockwise? great videos. I'll be doing a check up on my DR650 soon. great info. please keep doing the tutorials.

Well presented vid, very clear. Excellent!

electricians use a lot of those kinds of screws great idea they normally are driven with what is known as a Roberts bit

DR650.com says to line up the horizontal line, not the T. With the bike in neutral, get a 17mm socket onto the nut inside the magneto cover cap and turn the crankshaft over slowly counterclockwise until the horizontal line below the 'T' on the magneto rotor is central in the timing inspection hole.

jaetheo good tutorial just need to know how often is this valve check done thank you

Is TDC the T or the line according to the manual?

Do you know what size square head screw that you are using in the video to hold the valve adjustment screw? Is it a #8 or #10 ext? They only come in packs of 25 or more.I don't want to purchase the wrong size. Please advise.Thanks

I watched 3 videos about this and all 3 said to center the "T" while my manual says to center the line next to the "T". You can definitely feel a difference in the turning of the crank between the T and line. The engine actually moves off the line to the T when you let go of the socket. I think the difference between the 2 positions is important with such tight tolerances. Now I am more confused. I guess I'll go against the manual and center the T instead of the line since no one has reported a problem.

Neato

Do you know for sure or not if turning the bolt clockwise will harm the engine?

I just got a 650 DR 97 model it needs some work and a few parts ..I was wondering if u could suggest an online parts site that's safe 2 order from and has the parts I need...please and thank u...

jaetheo, thanks for the vid. Does your ratchet not have a locking center position for the forward/reverse so you can forego the whole vicegrip on socket business?

Turn it counter-clockwise, right?

*как узнать когда мне надо регулировать клапана?*

If you set the loose tight switch in the middle it locks your ratchet.

using the correct tools would make it easier. Get a very small crescent wrench or open end wrench. They make them that small and you are sure to need them again. I was factory rep for Honda for two years for Ala and Ga. Most all maintenance and repair jobs on motorcycles are not hard to do in the least, you just need simple instructions and a set of tools to keep every thing running as it should. Good video

Thank you for an excellent instruction and your timer. counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, counter clockwise, ????????? LOL

how often do you adjust them

Still has that stock fuel filter in the fuel nipple!

You seem to be in the know on the 650 so I'll ask you. I just posted a video on my channel Spartan ADV and need some help. The video will cover it and it's only 3 minutes long. Thank you for your time!

should this work for a dr350

Those numbers are way off that procycle gave you... Haynes manual is .08-.13 intake and .17-.22 exhaust

Good tutorial. But the line needs to be centered according to the manual, not the "T"..Does it really matter? Maybe not.

Center the Line not the T next to the line.

torque wrench works better than vice grips for turning crank, otherwise great video

How about a breaker bar. That's what I use

DO NOT turn the engine clockwise. That can damage the cam chain, cam chain guides, and tensioner. It is designed to ONLY turn counterclockwise. With the spark plug removed it should not turn too far when using a ratchet, since there is no compression. The little mark on the flywheel is useless once you understand what is happening. With the valve covers off, you want the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, with all the valves closed (I have no idea why Suzuki used 4 valves and 2 spark plugs, 1 spark plug and 2 valves would have been better and reduced complication on what is otherwise a very simple bike) When both valves are closed, they can be adjusted. Turn the engine over several times and watch the valves to get an understanding of what is going on. The valves will remain closed for several degrees of crankshaft rotation. Watch them closely, then turn the crankshaft just a little more before adjusting the valves.