It’s very easy to strip them. 2 of mine have been stripped since I got the bike.

I’m not quite sure what you’re talking about. I recommend you take a look at a parts diagram at suzukipartshouse.com

You might be able to put a ton of gasket make around the area to slow the leak for a while. Otherwise you have to split it.

I agree. After I finished recording the individual clips, I realized just how often I did that. However, it took so much time to record, and reassemble the engine that I really didn't want to take it apart again.

I’m not sure for the 2005. I recommend getting a shop manual.

eBay, Suzuki parts house.com, Babbitt’s, or just a Google search should find some. You can use gasket sheets and just cut them out for some of them and copper gasket spay on the metal ones if you just trying to fix them.

Try eBay, Babbitt’s and suzukipartshouse.com. I recommend the Suzuki one first so you can get a part number from their website.

@@briangtester2536 if someone doesn’t have experience working on similar things I definitely wouldn’t recommend it in general. Most likely going to break something in the process.

The original isn’t a manual tensioner and I would never recommend one. With a manual tensioner you have to adjust it very frequently and for someone who rides on the street, it shouldn’t be a consideration at all. You don’t need to remove anything other than the carbs to access it, remove it, and reinstall another. Removal is very easy and you might want to watch the part of the video I have regarding its installation as I show one trick that makes the installation better to avoid it jumping a tooth.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks man!!! This is very helpful!!! Appreciate it

Are you referring to the piston ring gap? If so I might be able to look it up in my book. I also recommend you get a Haynes manual if your going that deep in the engine.

I'm not sure, you should try a shop manual for that year.

Clutch cable wires? I’m pretty sure that’s not a thing in this bike. Have you tried looking at a wiring diagram yet?

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I mean the green+yellow wires running from either hand control side. One runs from the clutch lever, the other from the start switch control. Not sure where they go

@@rovch_ I don’t have my bike so I can’t check wire colors but I also had the same problem so my wires aren’t original for almost everything. (Rodent damage + previous owner) You would greatly benefit from a wiring diagram. On the clutch side you should just have lights and horn. On the brake side you have the starter, kill switch, and brake light. Without a wiring diagram I wouldn’t attempt what your doing. You can find them online for free.

I’m not sure. However I recommend you try the Facebook forum “Suzuki GSX-F katana”. I’ve seen many people do engine swaps on there.

Any oil cooled engine, gsxr 750,1100, bandit 600, 1200, bolt straight in. 1200 needs its own exhaust and lower fairing mod to fit collectors

You'll want to use something to measure the current coming from your wires. You could follow the current until it stops. You could have bad wires, a disconnected wire, a bad cdi, bad signal generator, etc. I recommend you start by measuring the resistance of your parts to guarantee everything is within spec. Also make sure your ground wires are actually grounded. I'd say this is the most common mistake as well as easiest to fix. Unfortunately your problem will take a lot of trial and error to identify what's wrong. I've had this problem before as well but my wires had been chewed through by rodents, someone tried fixing it before and made it worse, and multiple electronic parts were broken.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I found the problem I did not have the positive cable connected to the CDI this number with 8 pins, now I do not know where it is located, could you help me with your connector, my email is aeiou150719@gmail.com

I’m thinking the tensioner too. You could try a manual one but they can be annoying in that they need to be adjusted every so often.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks for the reply, I did have some fuel in my oil as well. Does that sound like cam Chaim/tensioner or lifter tick? I ran the bowls dry prior to the stock Air-box install no sounds. After stock Air-box install it suddenly appeared.

@@thelegend9299 fuel is likely in your oil because you leave the petcock on prime. This causes fuel to leak into the cylinders and eventually past the piston rings into the oil. Have you run a compression test on the bike? I own a manual tensioner and do not use it because I would have to consistently adjust it. You may want to push the tensioner in another click or replace the spring but I wouldn’t until your certain where the click is from.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 my petcock is only ever on, prime only if bowls are empty. Petcock functions properly I had some flooding issues due to needle valve came in carb kit was the wrong size. I just changed oil tonight, tick was still there but not at idle only when the bike reved up this is heard. I have not ran a compression test. How do you push the tensioner in?

@@thelegend9299 check 24:30 in this video

I can't remember which type mine is or where I got it but just google "1990 GSX750F shop manual"

Yes, it is just very heavy and hard to do. Last time I did it I used a come along and lifted the bike frame away from the engine.

Pretty much. You just have to make sure everything fits in the new cylinder head properly. Your valves for example won’t mesh perfectly and you would benefit from lapping the cylinder head.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Don’t know if you can lend a hand with info, Dropped my engine back in, and wired up everything to what I believe to be correct and the Solonoid is just making a clicking, Dropped the left side cover off and I can see the starter trying to turn but not really doing anything, In the midst of checking this I’m now doubting if the coil packs are wired up right as I’m struggling to find a diagram that will tell me what wire goes where in terms off them.

@@kylesimmons5749 Sounds like a mess. While I cant say what's wrong, I can say check these things and get back to me if you need additional help. Wiring problem - the coil packs have nothing to do with the starter. these are separate issues. You wont be able to verify the coil packs are wired correctly until the crankshaft turns over allowing the signal generator to initiate a spark however. Remove your starter and test it. Is it spinning the correct direction? Can you manually spin the crankshaft by pulling an engine cover or spinning the wheels in gear? If you can't theirs something wrong in the engine stopping it from moving. Try to connect the battery directly to the starter bypassing all the wires in between to see if that turns it over. Your battery is fully charged right? (you should own a trickle charger) You might not have a coil problem. Focus on trying to get it to turn over first.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Finally fixed all that, New issue, The screw behind the rubber grommet for the shift rod just keeps turning I feel 0 resistance at all and even if I go all the way in with the screw and bolt still have no clutch, this 20 year old bike is giving me a run for my money. On note of the other thing it was a mixture of rodent bit through some wires and the battery had dead cells, Starter was all good but just struggled to life.

@@kylesimmons5749 What happened was you turned it in all the way and then backed it out. Now its stuck all the way in so you wont get resistance. Run the bike again for a second with the screw turned out, then try again.

Message me on Instagram. bill_armstrong_dxb

Sure, you can comment on here and I’ll reply within a day usually or I can give you my Instagram where I’ll respond much quicker if you’d like. (I do this with people on here every now and then)

Please could I have your Instagram

Should the push rod be sticking out prior to putting the cover back on?

Should I need to adjust that 10mm and the small flat blade screw to push and hit the push rod? Why would I need to do this if all I did was take the cover off. I believe I have a cap on my cover so that hasn’t been revealed to me at all

I tried to put the cover back on did not have it fully tightened and I don’t have any clutch resistance. I’m going to clean it up down there and replace the bolts. I’m not 100% sure i had the cover installed right. I still have to put the front sprocket on so I didn’t want to put it back on all the way to take it back off I’m just curious about the clutch resistance, it was working 100% before i took the cover off

Put cover on right front sprocket and chain off bike pushrod seated correctly put shifter on and couldn’t get it to go into gear at all. Could it be just stuck in neutral cause I can’t spin the wheel.

That ball bearing is probably from your shifter. That mechanism has a bunch of small ball bearings that easily fall out when you take it off the cover. When installing the cover you want the pushrod in the bike. You probably won’t feel resistance in the clutch when installing everything. Once you push it in it generally gets sticky during assembly and when the bike starts it’ll work right. After you have run the bike for a minute then adjust the side of the clutch with a slotted screwdriver and the 10mm to tighten it down.

Sorry, I believe their are a lot of sources online however. Haynes is a popular brand

I got different parts from different sources but I got a lot from suzukipartshouse.com

This is a standard thing to do. Where the crank case halves meet the fit is never perfect. Because of this, sealant is added where the points meet. You can find these steps in a shop manual for this bike. (Just don’t put too much or it will get in the oil system)

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Do I have to wait for the sealant to dry?

@@user-ti1bd8qk1k you shouldn’t wait for it to dry. If it dries or you wait too long to put it together it won’t seal properly.

I can send a video if you’d like. Thanks!

@@Leon-uf4yw if you have Instagram you can add me on there. bill_armstrong_dxb

If not I’d adjust your valve height and see if the timing chain is still tight while you have the head cover off.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 im just seeing this rn so i just requested on instagram. I adjusted the valves but it did nothing and the timing chain seems to be tight; maybe a bit too tight. Ill send some more info on instagram

My book doesn't contain info regarding that specific bike but you should be able to find one online for your bike. Just google "1983 GSX 750es shop manual" and you should find one. A common and generally recommended make for shop manuals is "Haynes".

Haynes doesn't have mannual for my bike

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 can u help me source me parts or a complete engine

@@SyedAli-ih8cd After reading all your comments, I wouldn't recommend you try and fix the engine. It will be incredibly expensive as replacing enough parts can cost more than replacing the engine and you will undoubtedly make a costly mistake somewhere. If you include the tools you will need to purchase, it will be even more expensive and undoubtedly worth more than the bike is worth. The parts I put in my bike are worth at least 3x more than the bike is worth in perfect condition as I built my bike to test and improve my mechanical skills instead of considering cost as the main factor. I didn't see any engines online after a brief search so you'll have to wait until one pops up somewhere. You could also try to call different shops that part out bikes and see if they have any for sale as ebay and other sites have limitations to how long and how many items a user can put on it. If you buy a used engine however it will likely fail considering the age of the engine your looking for and that used engines that age often need heavy rebuilding in general. It's incredibly risky and not worth the money in this case. I would recommend you give up on this bike and sell its parts individually to get some money back. Selling individual parts can make you more money than selling the entire bike in this condition. The damage you have described it just too extensive and the amount of knowledge needed to bring back your bike also extensive. I highly recommend you cut your costs and move onto another bike.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yes thats the advice i am getting so far money was my secondary priority my first priority is my love and passion towards this bike and knowing no one has it other than me proving costly adventure my another mechanic says if u stubborn about keeping it u will need engine one after another as what you willl put will have issues of its own someone recommended me to go for 1200 bandit engine of 2012 model when i pressed for Fitting in my bike chasis he decline knowledge told search for Internet for answer which engine will fit with out modifications the newer model any thoughts on that please so share

The internal passages lead to below the cylinders, not the cylinder head. All you have to do is look at the bottom of a cylinder head for sale online and you'll see their is no way for the internal passages to keep going up. The two external pipes are the only way for oil to move up and your oil pump must be working for it to happen. When reassembling it, you should also add oil to it like I mentioned in this video so that oil is there when you first start it up. Their are a variety of problems that can cause your cylinder head to overheat and a repair job on a cylinder head isn't likely to include a full refurbishing of valves. I'd start with a compression test and if everything comes out okay you may want to check your carbs are tuned correctly and your getting a strong spark. Their are a variety of additional things that can cause issues here but those are the main ones. Here is a cylinder head for sale online that has a picture of the bottom showing their are no internal passages going up. www.ebay.com/itm/951-1983-Suzuki-GS750E-GS-750-CYLINDER-HEAD/182702066836?hash=item2a89e44c94:g:hFgAAOSw9fNZhLf8 I forgot to mention that beneath the oil pump their is a mesh filter that could be clogged reducing the amount of oil going though the pump. When reassembling my engine I like to run it for a bit and then remove that filter again as it catches debris you miss at first and can clog it. You can see it at 7:19 in this video.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 the Mechanic has opened up the oil restainer and it was clogged up and cleaned the mesh part i have changed oil three times already with in the running of 100 miles of engine carburetor is rebuild with new float pins gas was going in the engine and mixing with oil thus resulting 3 times to change new oil finallay carburetor is perfect and fixed i have put 2 times the new spark plugs as it was getting wrenched in oil bed gas when starting the bike then we found out that its running on 3 cylinders hence we did valve adjust and head gasket and piston ring alignment job after that now it heats up and after running 5 km stops due to heat we have changed the battery and battery charger and the magnetic round part i forget the name which is fixed next to small sprocket area left side i show it to another mechnic he says it is seizing after main crank getting hot and one of the main bearing is catching the crank another mechanic i spoke he said it's time for new engine another mechanic i talked he said need to look in the piston pins and head gasket that is not right and need a new main crank shaft please can you give your comments on this i can send uou the sound video of engine how terrible it's acting up if you give me a email i am in a country this is the only bike no spare parts available and good literate mechanics of 4 cylinder bike this bike is in Mechanic shops past 7 months since bought it and still not able to bring it to riding condition please help me with your knowledge changed the oil filter also and also have complete new wiring on the bike as old wirring harness was old and breaking spend tones of money and still no luck to solve its issues

@@SyedAli-ih8cd What I'm reading indicates you have multiple problems at once. Having gasoline in your engine oil means that your piston rings are no longer creating a seal and the gas is blowing past them. This alone is a massive issue and you will likely need to swap your piston rings and potentially the cylinders and pistons too. It could also be that your valves are no longer seating properly as this requires the cylinder head to be recut and the valve guides to be replaced. However, I think it is likely that all of these problems are occurring at the same time due to how extreme the issue is and the age of the engine. Both of these problems will also cause oil to move into your airbox and then into your carbs since the gas and air blowing by your pistons and/or valve guides over pressurizes the engine. Because of the gas aspect, I can also assume that your #4 cylinder isn't firing for this reason and simply wore out faster than the others possibly because you ran the engine too hot for a really long while among other potential reasons. If your bearing is in fact seizing, it will also need to be replaced and depending on how bad it is, the crankshaft could be damaged too. If all of this is accurate, your engine is likely extremely worn out and would require a massive amount of rebuilding. This is likely why the additional mechanic said you need a replacement engine as after a certain point the cost of fixing it is much higher than the cost of replacing it. A lot of mechanics will refuse to rebuild an engine this extensively because of how time consuming and how much of a hassle it is.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 when u say in ur video apple 25 pound of torque to tighten a screw or nut how you measure it i am not a mechanic saw ur video which is very detailed the way i was looking and appreciate your effort to make video for us

@@SyedAli-ih8cd Its called "foot pounds" but when saying "pounds of torque" it's implied since its the most common metric. Their are multiple different metrics you can use like newton meters as well to measure a torque rating. You use a torque wrench that has an adjustable base so that when you apply the selected pressure to the bolt, the wrench "clicks" letting you know to stop tightening. If you over tighten, you risk braking threads and under tightening can cause it to vibrate out. If you are unfamiliar with this, I don't recommend you take apart your bike yourself as you will likely damage it. Their is a lot of background knowledge you must have when working on vehicles and if you don't know this relatively simple aspect, you likely don't know a lot of important information. It is incredibly easy to brake a bike when taking it apart and I'm concerned you could do this. With an old engine you have to be incredibly careful since your threads among other parts are likely already worn out.

You should be able to swap your alternator's regulator if you can solder a bit. Here is a link to a parts diagram www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/suz/5ffcf9fb87a866162c7674c2/alternator . Considering the cost of the regulator I would recommend finding a used alternator and just swapping the whole thing. The bike has a CDI but I'm not sure what your asking.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I'm Venezuelan. and here that motorcycle or that model does not exist, and much less that year they gave it to me all destroyed. and I have accommodated it little by little ... only that I ask that the regulator could be changed for another. and the other was the CDI. can you communicate with me my instagram is @ christian_elnegro27 I have in the background the suzuki katana that I am repairing please to see if some specifications can help me!

Slipping when giving gas is caused from a worn out clutch and has nothing to do with the gears. Your clutch plates are too worn out and are no longer able to stick to one another. It’s also possible your clutch springs have become too weak and won’t hold the clutch together. If you’re lucky your clutch is simply adjusted wrong. It’s possible the screw on the side is pushing inwards too tight or the cable has too much tension on it. Worn out clutch plates can be caused from extensive use or improper maintenance. A common issue that destroys katana clutches is the incorrect oil being used. Katanas have what’s called a wet clutch meaning oil goes in and around the clutch. If you use car oil in your bike the oils can degrade the clutch much faster than normal. Always use motorcycle oil on bikes that have wet clutches.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I appreciate you bro. You’ve been a big help on this bike. I was nervous it would be my trans slipping. I have a new clutch on the way. Will I need to adjust the clutch on the side of the bike all the way up to the lever?? Or from the lever down??

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 and are you saying the clutch cable needs to have a little play in it?? Not too tight or too loose!!

@@ncgoon336 you want the cable to have a tiny amount of slack or like in my case, loosen it and then tighten it until their is none and then no tighter. Their is another part that you need to adjust. Normally there is a rubber cover on the side cover, remove it and you’ll find a 10mm with a slotted screw in the center. Unscrew the 10mm, and then loosen the slotted screw 2 turns out. Start the engine in neutral for 10 seconds and turn it off. very slowly tighten the slotted screw until it makes contact and stop immediately. Now back it out 1/8-1/4 of a turn and then tighten the 10mm making sure the slotted screw doesn’t move. Now that part of your clutch is adjusted.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842how did you take off the small gear in the back of clutch basket

I'm not sure which one your referring to. go to suzukipartshouse.com and look at the parts diagram and let me know which one.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 1011 and 12 on the cam chain

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 But mine doesn’t have the tensioner up the top on the chain

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I seen the screw on your video it’s on the head in between carburettor two and three

@@robphilip1646 You'll definitely want to install one then. You'll probably hear the timing chain slap a ton without it. It's possible it fell into the engine and in that case you might brake something if you keep trying to run it.

This is a very debatable subject. Some people say ride it hard for a while and others the opposite. Some also say the process is unnecessary and it will ware in on its own. You can check and see what the manufacturer says about this specific vehicle as they also vary but personally I just ride it normal for a while till I push it.

Thanks for all your advice! I have rebuilt my katana 1991! Your videos helped massively. I rode it as per manufacturers instruction. Not to exceed 5k rpm for the first 500miles. Having done that, she's all loose and ready for some punishment lol

www.ebay.com/itm/155487949774?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4-ErIUbiT6i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=FR_um2A7S4O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

My original intentions where this but my video would have turned into 3hrs long easily and I had to take it apart twice just for this. Instead I just help people who have questions in the comments.

In my case the engine is a combination of many different engines. The crank case is from one, cylinders from another, cylinder head another, head cover another, and side covers from different bikes as well. When combining this many different engines, the parts don’t always like to seal cleanly. I had the bottom of the cylinder head resurfaced but adding gasket maker helps prevent oil leaks when the engine is a Frankenstein of parts.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Forgot you used like 3 engines to build it out. And that is certainly true. Aluminum under heat loads does some weird things and now I understand (your point) better. It sometimes is nearly impossible to get all the machined edges clean and flat when they came from so many different engines.

@@anonimous2451 with all the internal parts replaced as well it’s at least from 7 different bikes with the engine alone. Only original external part is the cylinder head cover which is slightly damaged internally but not too big a deal. Should have thrown this bike out honestly. I even found a big hunk of metal missing from part of the inside of the crankcase wall (looked like it was hit with a hammer) so it was clearly messed with before and put back together broken. The rest of the bike hidden by fairings was no better. The guy said “just rodent damage to the wiring harness and carb work”. Never has a bigger lie been told.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 sort of why I trust NOTHING anyone says dealing with bikes. But I've been lucky. The 750 I got sat since 2008 mostly due to some idiot put air pods on it and nothing changed expecting it to run. I got very lucky on it but got it for near nothing....Cleaned carbs and it fired right up.

I don’t believe it will be the same. Generally when I’m looking for compatibility for years and model I compare part numbers. Use suzukipartshouse.com and you can compare the exact part numbers for each year and model fork your looking at.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thank you and thank you for answering my questions no matter how irrelevant they are to the video. You should do a fork seal video…..

@@thelegend9299 Was considering it a while back but mine were so seized I had to send them to a mechanic to take them apart. Everything on this bike was ruined and pretty much the whole thing has been rebuilt or replaced. Ended up getting a second pair of used forks for parts and then new seals. Funny thing was even the engine had been taken apart and put together broken but the guy said “just carb work and rodents messed up the wiring harness”. When I split the crank case a fist sized hunk of metal was missing from the crank case. I swear he hit it with a hammer when it was apart! Ridiculous!

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 wow. How much did you pay for it. Your name says it all. That must’ve been a lot of work. Do you still have this bike? Just removing the forks would you say that’s a pretty easy task?

@@thelegend9299 it’s mostly pretty simple. Removing them is very simple but splitting them is super hard if their seized. The rest is pretty easy to do. Probably spent 5x the bikes value on it overall and I still have it at my parents place. It’s technically not even completely done since I don’t have the time to finish it all. The fuel air mix is still wrong since I put a lot of aftermarket parts on it and I plan on bringing it somewhere to tune it since I don’t have a bunch of jets laying around to do it properly.

When I was editing the video together I came to the same conclusion very quickly. I didn’t want to spend another crazy amount of time reshooting the whole thing though since it took a crazy amount of time and effort the first go around. That being said the video is mainly for teaching how it goes together and critical info as part names can be found rather easily on part diagrams. I also left out lots of vital info regarding tolerances and other very in depth aspects you’d find in a shop manual. If you’d like a diagram you can find a variety of parts diagrams at suzukipartshouse.com