Appreciate it!

@@kamonreynolds sugar honey sucks

Aw shucks Steve! Thanks for watching. Yessir, we will keep rolling out the videos to help folks enjoy their bees, and save money.

Your welcome!

There is another way to take away the swarming impulse Clare out all the queen cells get u another hive body with drawn comb find the queen put her in put a excluded on setting the original body on top immediately she is released of all congestion as soon as she gets back into lay and the nurses start populating about eight days you do another inspection you keep the foraging force once the flow is good just take out the excluder let the queen rave both boxes to work

Have both hive body

I like to shake them off so that any foragers can fly off and that the bees feel out of place and start fanning nasanov. It likely is not needed but it works well for me.

Thanks Mark!

@@kamonreynolds what are the top 5 things new beekeepers need to do to be successful? I have 4 hives right now first year. I am in northwest Indiana

That is perfectly fine! Thank you very much and we hope you all have a great honey season!

Hi from middle Tennessee! Thanks for watching!

Remove capped queen cells and open ones with brood to stop additional swarms. The bees could swarm with every queen that hatches from any of the queen cells. Take 2-3 brood frames with the bees and swap them with the super frames, they will continue to work the brood frames as well as the supers. The brood will emerge and the cells will be filled with syrup/honey.

Scott u can have them accepting another queen. Get your queen laying with 3 or4frames of younger bees brake down the hive putting a sheet of paper on top of the original body put the nuke with queen being already interduce another sheet of paper on top then whatever else on top of that 5 days or about pulling down the hive again just use a sharp knife to uncapped some of the drone cells and organise the brood chamber nicely

Even though that is a common generalization made, it is not always the case. Verifying that the hive has eggs is always a good idea before you assume it is a swarming colony and remove cells.

private bubba yes lol. I call the swarm cells 🤬.

Yeah sometimes that's true, sometimes not, sadly the bees haven't read any beekeeping books so they mostly do what they like. :)

@@KujoPainting l

I prefer giving frames and bees to a healthy little hive. However doing it by the box can also work but with deeps many times it is more than what I want to give. We make alot of our splits by the deep box. Yes, queens love laying nucs full of brood and will overwinter very well if the bees are healthy and have plenty of stores.

@@kamonreynolds Thank you very much!

A single deep can too.

Sue Ellen, I have seen some old timers find a lot of swarm cells on the bottom of a frame, discharge the larvae content, and replace with larvae of their choice. Then they would place that frame in a box where they could take proper care of it. The question you are asking requires knowledge of primed queen cells prior to grafting, wet graft as opposed to a dry graft, natural cells versus man made wax cells, plastic cell cups and grafting system, and of course natural larvae emerge versus cloistered queen. I did not mean to take Kamon's thunder....sorry about that! Carroll

I've been using queen excluder in half of my hives and I can tell you you get the same ammount of honey on both hives. I would argue you get even less in the hives without queen excluder AND its a pain in the butt when you have to harvest your honey.

They are my queens and bees. Mostly carnie these days but some Italian in there. I have tried a couple of saskatraz and they were ok.

Pine needles, grass clipping, hay,

I don't have any experience with them but I know folks that do very well with them. I think they are great

For Jamaica I bet they're awesome. Northern illinois? Not so much..

Reindeer’s Bees Yes, if they’re not already in full bore swarm mode with capped queen cells. Key is giving queen room to lay. Pulling a couple frames of honey, or nectar-filled brood comb, or a frame of pollen and replacing with drawn comb, will usually do the trick. Replace the pulled frames with drawn comb, not plastic foundation; bees don’t view the plastic as laying room until it gets drawn out, and by then the hive will likely have swarmed. If you have no drawn comb available, better to just go foundationless and hope they draw it out a bit in the next couple of days. The pulled combs can go into another hive, or you can place a queen excluder and a new box above it, put the frames there. Another trick, if lacking drawn comb, is you can pull frames of nectar and set them out away from the hive. Your other colonies, or another beekeepers colonies, or ferals will likely rob it out within 2-3 hours and you can then re-insert it in the brood nest. This year I had more trouble with hives being pollen bound than honey bound.

you could do that. If you wanted to increase. I like to get my honey crop and then split but what you described works

Tennessee's Bees thanks for responding

It is a response to certain stimulation. Alot of nectar, wax production, inbalances of population to brood and queen pheromones. In short the can swarm any time the right conditions are met. Typically in my area those ideal conditions are between late March and late May. But we can send swarms in fall.

I have some videos earlier in 2019 that cover swarm trapping and I am going to be touching on that in more depth in January.

I shake nurse bees into other colonies constantly. It works even better if you run them thru the entrance. Nurse bees will always be accepted. Older bees will most times be killed. It is reccomended that you shake the nurse bees at the entrance so they have to walk in but I often just shake them into a colony. Frames of young larvae and pollen frames are typically your best frames to shake from. Both of those hives are still looking great 3 months later. Hope this helps.

We selectively breed for gentle behavior

They are drawing them into cells and they are filled with royal jelly and larvae. 2-3 days later some would have been capped. I still have the original queen so I don't need them to raise another. Doing what I did in the video slows the impulse down not due to a lack of cells but due to pulling bees and brood, giving them frames to draw on and shortly after adding honey supers. It works great. Sure they might try to make more cells the next week but we will be ready to deal with that. After a while they will stop and focus on a large honey crop. If I want queens to split I already raise them and sell them from the breeder queens

A strong colony will try multiple times. They need plenty of room for the queen to lay and plenty of space to store nectar. Dividing bees does help but it can take multiple times cutting the pre capped cells before they stop even if they have the space.

@@kamonreynolds the biggest problem is not enough drawn comb for her to lay into. So from there it gets back filled with nectar or pollen before she lays again. I just keep checking and will keep splitting or destroying queen cells.

I totally understand! We are still needing alot more combs than what we have and that makes swarm season difficult