I do need a good day to spend with someone experienced who knows all the proper techniques, I am a visual learner and learn by doing, I know there is a lot of content out there and information to read through but I can really understand the value of an apprenticeship in a working shop now. With all these great comments I am understanding the mistakes I have made in this last video as well. AND your'e right, This is all fun, even the frustrating parts I am really enjoying it. Thansk for the helpful comments.

Thanks, Its still not right. I will be tackling this again but not creating any further content. at least until I have it 100% down. Your suggestion of finding a repeatable setup makes sense.

To add, the horizontal alignment difference you're seeing with the tailstock at the end of the bed, is most likely from bed twist, which requires levelling and shimming of the bed. This is typically apparent when you have the alignment perfect closest to the headstock, but it's off when it's furthest. The vertical alignment is typically not adjustable, but can be scraped or shimmed as necessary. But don't do any scraping or shimming until you get everything else aligned and levelled. BlondiHacks Lathe alignment video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fpZ9qqaqvMu0Z30.htmlfeature=shared A bit on concentricity and how it relates to runout. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g9WWptl6rrHcY58.htmlfeature=shared

I have read through your comments several times now. I really appreciate you taking the time to write all this out. Allthough I do not plan on making another video about centering the tailstock I will continue to try to improve it. I am also saving yoru comment for reference. :-) Thank you for the great tips and procedures to tram this thing in. I really appreciate it.

@@deezworkshop I don't expect another video, though adding a comment to this one explaining any resolution you find would be helpful for others. I went and rewatched BlondiHacks video, as well as about half a dozen other videos. There are some good ones, and some not so good ones out there. I'll tell you the consensus of what I've found. Levelling the ways is always going to be the first step. You need a precision level, which are a bit pricey. However some people have used some bars and a plumb bob to measure. After leveling, you need to check your headstock alignment. This is where you need a thick bar (over 1 inch diameter and at least 4 to 5 inches long). You make straight cuts on the bar (no tailstock) and measure the diameter near the chuck and at the far end to get taper. That taper is how the headstock is parallel to the ways. Correcting it is a tricky part. On bigger lathes, you would adjust the angle of the headstock. Unfortunately on these smaller lathes, it's not possible because the headstock is aligned by the ways. In that case you would need to scrape the ways to remove material to rotate it. BlondiHacks instead shims the ways, which technically introduces twist back into them. This can cause some issues with tailstock alignment throughout it's range, but I don't know how much. The solution is to just measure taper on any part where you're using the tailstock, and adjusting it for the position that you're using it. (You should be checking for taper on any precision part you're making anyways). After aligning the headstock, you align the tailstock by turning between centers. This is done by removing the chuck, inserting a center between the tailstock and headstock, and making a test piece much like the one for the headstock, except driving it with a lathe dog. You measure the end near the headstock and tailstock to get the taper. Then you adjust the horizontal screws until you remove the taper and the ends measure the same diameter. Now that piece you just turned, with the matching diameters, becomes a very useful piece, as now you can use it to check the alignment of the tailstock anytime by putting the centers on the front and back and indicating it from the saddle and adjusting the tailstock until the measurements match. By turning a piece between centers, you virtually remove all runout. See that BlondiHacks video on concentricity. It can also help to bolt the lathe to a solid base, like steel plate, cement pavers, or something that won't flex or move (wood moves a lot with humidity). It can help you take cleaner cuts, and will make your measurements more repeatable (especially when levelling, you are just as likely to twist the wood instead of the lathe bed). Even a 4000 pound lathe is about as flexible as a wet noodle, so they need a solid base to get any accuracy.

You have provided so much great information and that I will tackle this again using your tips and guidance. I will use others as well. I may post a second "Final" video :-) on the topic showing my experience but only if I get it nailed down right. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

I didnt check that rod, I should have. I assumed which was my mistake, It could be off. I think the center hold in the end wasnt centered either. You are right, Trying to center and achieve "0" with an unknown part is a mistake. I know for my hobby work it isnt such a big deal, but part of this hobby is understanding and learning proper techniques. I failed in all my tailstock videos including this one. I am having a blast and have made some pretty cool things even with the issues I have. Thanks for sticking with me as I work through projects and continue to learn these machines.

I am still going about this all wrong, my Chuck does have a recess to fit true but its not true, I have about .002 runout at the chuck, I have a lot of great information from you and other commentors. I will tackle this again someday.

Thank you again. I apprciate the Zoom or FB call offer. Perhaps one day We can work that out. I think I have bearing issues. likey due to my usage and knurling tool with the side forces I needed to knurl some projects. Also I dont think it was spot on from day one but vevor is what it is. I do want to inspect the bearings and look at replacing them someday but thats a project for another time. I will continue to work with this tailstock but won't be sharing anything until I have it nailed down.

The quickest, accurate way to achieve concentricty is to remove the chuck, place a dead centre in your spindle , next place a dead centre in your tail stock, next , place a straight length of bar with pre drilled centres, between your two dead centres and using a test gauge mounted on your carriage run up and down the shaft of your test piece. I This assumes that you already checked your quill travel for parallel to the ways. Tbh. I think you need somebody to visit your shop to show you the correct procedure and explain the concepts involved. All the best , Mike.

Thank you for for this information and advice. You are absolutely right, I really need a visit from someone who knows how to perform some of these techniques, It is clear I have never worked with these machines in a professional workshop or worked with experts who can teach me. I am lucky to have such a great community that helps with commenting and guiding me in the right direction, I will tackle this again but off camera, If I ever do another video it wont be until I have mastered this topic and can add create something valuable to others out there. Thansk for your advice and tips, Will be using these as I work with this again.

Hi Deez, hope you can find an experienced machinist local to you who can spend an hour or two demonstrating and explaining the necessary techniques and concepts . An hour of good tuition might save months of frustration and mixed results struggling on your own. All the best , Mike

Me too, I do know a couple business owners that have a machine shop. Might be able to trade some work for an hour or 2 of training in the machine shop. Cheers.