AWESOME VIDEO!!!!!! Your 02:48 video was more informative than the 10:00 videos from the manufacturers!!!!! Thanks.

Excellent video! That didn't go like I was expecting. I would've thought rubber sealed, teflon sealed, then metal shielded. Great information!

Would have been curious to see how long you got from those white plastic tamiya bushings.

I want to see some scientific comparison of different plastics that Tamiya uses.

I wonder if they need to break in ? It would be nice to have better spinning bearings in certain fishing reels , but for most things the friction seems very similar

That tire had some serious momentum on it

I bought some Avid Revolutions bearings great bearings for 1.00 each. there are a quite and super smooth.

goood video, thank you for doing this xD

Mabe the grease used in each bearing has an influence on the time as well.

Still, there would be any different results if those bearings tested under load.

Price and lasting??

What kind of lubrication is required for fluorine and how does it affect performance?

Excellent!

There is some kind of serious flaw in this test because the "ball bearing" which is no more than a standard shielded bearing, should have spun at least as long as the teflon sealed bearing. The shielded bearing should have no part of the shield touching the inner race. The type of sealed bearing was not mentioned. There are two distinct types, contact and non-contact. Which one was in this test? I suspect it was a non-contact type since it did spin so long. So, it begs the question; were each bearing from the same manufacturer with the same lube package?

Well that wasnt what I was expecting?

Unfortunately this test means very little, the bearings are under no to little load. You can not test a bearing that's not under load. A bearing free rolling gives zero indication to its actual in service rolling resistance. Take an industrial size sealed ball bearing, they won't free spin at all, take the seals and grease out and they will. Which one do you think has the least rolling resistance under load?

I'd like to see speed acceleration of a car with said bearings. Does it translate to microseconds or seconds?

May you add the ceramic bearing to test in same method please

It's actually invalid to test bearings like this because when in the car they are *under load* due to G forces, acceleration/braking torque and the weight of the car, meanwhile this test is performed under no load at all other than the relatively light weight of one wheel. If you get any bearing and soak it in solvent to clean out the oil/grease you will find it will spin for a long time but under driving conditions in a car it will create much more friction. It's the same reason that old worn out idler bearings from your car's fan belt spin for a long time by hand but new grease packed bearings don't. Yet, when the belt is installed the old bearing makes a lot more noise and friction! Ideally the viscosity of the grease is chosen such that under load the metal parts don't actually touch, they ride on a very thin layer of grease. RC bearings typically use a light oil rather than a heavy grease because it gives less friction under light loads, but it can't handle heavy loads - if you hit a bump in the road metal touches metal and significant wear occurs. Running the bearings in the RC car and measuring the speed is definitely the better way of comparing the bearings since it is measuring them under the intended load conditions. It has to also be mentioned that there are slight variations in the dimensions of bearings so shims may have to be used to ensure the same fitment with different types of bearings. Some fit tighter than others, and can slightly bind which adds friction.

I was curious the make model and type of bearings that they use on space suits. If anybody can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated

If I may suggest something. If you have not already, please make sure you break in the bearings before doing such a test. Let's say you would want to test four different 5x10x4 bearings commonly found in a Tamiya rear hub. Install one of each bearing in the rear hubs, making sure that every bearing is well oiled. Each hub usually needs two bearings, so that's pretty simple. When installed, put everything back together, but leave the wheels off. Put in a pack and set the throttle trim to 3/4 throttle. Let it run the pack down and repeat with a fresh pack Now the bearings are broken in and you can see how they will perform. A cool test would be the following. Stainless with metal shield. Stainless with rubber seal. Ceramic with metal shield. Ceramic with rubber seal.

There will always be people saying this test is invalid due do no load, wrong conditions, too much grease, too little oil or some other "clever" nonsense they can think of as the results are not to their liking. Thing is, you tested them under the same condition, same wheel, same weight, same size, same brand, same condition (new out of box). There is even one "clever" idiot that did not even bother to watch the whole video and said one test spin does not give a definitive results. I screenshot the final result for him.

Great experiment and video work. Subbed. Will check out your channel.

The lube alone (or there lack of) will alter all the results - besides, it’s only worthwhile testing under load.