Thank you! I will continue to share my knowledge in the hope it will help.

Glad I could help and thank you for watching!

Yes, they are excellent tapes.

When brush painting apply a very thin coat first. This coat will dry quickly against the edge of the tape and prevent your subsequent coats of paint from bleeding under. Any brand of tape will benefit from the same technique.

@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne This is excellent advice! It helped me a ton. To add further, I recommend the paint used in this edging be the same as the paint under the tape, or clear varnish. That way, any bleeding is matched and disguised. After this dries, paint the intended color.

@Hearns Hobbies thanks, works wonders knowing this

I also had a bad experience with Tamiya masking tape where the paint bled under the tape. The window masks that were included with the body seemed to work much better than the masking tape.

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching!

You're welcome! Thank you for watching.

Glad it helped! Most tapes from hardware stores don't suit the fine work we do.

This tape will definitely be useful for you.

Hello Scotty! Without seeing or feeling the result, it could be a couple of issues. In my experience, the residue looking surface is not residue at all, but an imprint of the adhesive from the tape. The blue base may not have been fully cured when the tape was applied and the imprint of the tape has transferred to the blue. The second colour may have been too thick resulting in solvent penetrating the tape and softening the blue, again imprinting the tape shape to the base. Either way, the blue looks bumpy right? I have had success in heating the painted surface with a controlled hairdryer or heat gun. The heat will soften the paint and allow the surface to level out. Please try that and let me know how you go.

I have found 2 things can cause the problem you describe. As previously mentioned, it’s not actually tape adhesive residue, but an imprint the tape made on the paint because it wasn’t fully cured for whatever reason.. I’ve never tried heating the painted surface to smooth out the bumps. Instead, I fix that problem by loading the airbrush with some straight thinner-I use Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner, then spray very lightly over the bumpy surface. The thinner will dissolve the paint and let it settle down and dry smooth. To the best of my knowledge this only works with lacquer paints. This method will also fix a rough surface, usually caused by the paint starting to dry before it hits the model, because the airbrush was held too far away. This can also happen in corners like wing roots, where the paint can bounce off the fuselage and wings and settle in the corners as a “dust”. I’ve also had some paints that seem to react to the adhesive in Tamiya tape. I’ve had that problem with AK metallic paints. It doesn’t matter how long they have been left to dry, I have found that I simply cannot mask over them with Tamiya tape-it leaves a residue that is difficult to impossible to remove with marring the paint finish. The only work around I have found to this problem is to plan all my painting so the AK metallics are applied last so they never have to be masked over. HTH!

@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne I tried some wet sanding which showed it was the paint and not the tape residue. You were right. I went ahead and stripped everything off and starting over. This time I will spray the Villejo red first, mask that and then spray the Tamiya metallic blue so it won’t have to be masked at all. Stay tuned. Thanks!

@@57hound You are right on. It wasn’t residue at all. I had let the Tamiya metallic blue dry for 3 days before masking it. I stripped it completely and this time will spray the Villejo red first, let it cure for a few days, mask it and paint the blue last so as not to have to mask it. We’ll see. Thanks for your input.

Tape can be safely left on for the duration of building a model. Time is very subjective as excessive time, heat, sunlight will dry the adhesive and create problems. For example, a masked aircraft canopy may need to be masked at the beginning of the build and removed at the very end. Over time the tape may pull back on itself and release from the surface as the adhesive is low tack. If required, liquid mask applied over the tape can help to maintain the tapes shape over time.

@@HearnsHobbiesMelbourne Thank you for your expert answer, I was masking off the prop blades to paint yellow tips on them but I was worried that because it is a matt finish that the tape would pull the paint off if I left it on for too long.Or if I pulled it off too soon the paint would run/bleed.So I just stayed with it until it was dry & no ridge lines nice job & pleased with result.

Glad to hear you had a successful result!

Excellent!

Thank you for watching.

Some things are more difficult to mask than others. Good luck!

Sorry, I don't understand. I demonstrate the position of the tape folded under the dispenser for storage. This is the correct method.

That's a great tip!

The Tamiya tape is far superior to painters tape in regards to reduction in tape bleed and resistance to solvent based paints. This conclusion comes from experience.