For Morse tapers making, you can also use your compound ; to get a "right" angle i purchased some ( simple ) mechanical squares ( with lateral rule (? )). Then i made 2 bores 3,0 mm each, 50 mm from each other ; and after having tapered the two bores 3MA, i inserted in each of them a screw, that i previously lathed with point. And - after having read some mechanical books dealing with morse taper, i made one screw protruding ( say fo instance ) ... 3,00 mm, and the other as long as the calculated difference for Morse 2 ( for example ) , in a lenght of 50,0 mm. The screws were secured with Loctite and then adjusted to the exact value with a file, used to short each of the two screws, depending of the error. I use this square tools to get the exact angle of the compound, one square tool for each value of MK2 or MK3 or what you want. Of course a check with an "exact" ( = "purchased" and new ) morse taper is a must. You can also make a tool B16 for the drill, or what you need. Obviously, you must first check your compound travel, if it's long enought for the taper to be build, but for me generally was always ok, with a bit of care ...

Morerover ... if you have a boring head, be sure to get also both the shanks for the tail stock taper and for the spindle taper. They are interchangeable in my boring head ( simply screwed ).They are ( in my chinese lathe ) MK2 and MK3. Just not force too much into the tapers, remember you have to remove it ... and so, don't leave them into the tapers for long time, i had notice somebody said they remained stuck inside ...

Thank you! Cheers!

The motor is a 0.75 hp

Thanks your recommendation