Thank you Sir, but no need to thank me. I'm glad you're doing that. I saved $1000's of dollars collecting mine that way. You will too.

Thank you Sir.

Thank you Sir. Good luck on your project. Remember to start with the least aggressive sandpaper as possible to achieve the scratch removal.

I like the Yankee Marshall's polishing too. He's usually polishing a new or fairly new gun that's pretty much devoid of scratches anyway, so there's no need to sand those. I've never had to sand any of my new guns before polishing them either. I use this technique on used guns with obvious scratches and handling marks that I want to remove before polishing. Thank for the watching and the kind words.

Thank you Sir, and thanks for that eraser tip. I usually soak my paper until it no longer floats. You can add a little alcohol to the water to reduce the time it takes the paper to fully saturate if you're needing to save some time. Just returning a tip.

I learned about wet sanding building and painting hot rods. A drop or two of Joy dish washing liquid in the pan of water kept the paper from loading up too.

@@wallyrossow3141 Man, thank you. I always appreciate any new info.

Thank you and I'm glad to hear that.

Thank you Mr. Robbins. I'm far from the best, but I really like sharing and learning from others.

Thank you Mr. Spath. As you can see, It''s not difficult or damaging to the gun at all. I made the video because I got so many questions about how I polish my SS guns. And I had some skeptics that questions my response. It's really easy, and more efficient in removing scratches and years of handling wear than just polishing alone.

@@mr2275cur My mod 60 was quite scratched up when I bought it. I followed your process and it is gorgeous now. It was a very enjoyable afternoons work. BTW-I have always used Flitz metal polish. It works well on metal and other materials like plastics. Thanks again!

@@robspath4203 That sounds great. Glad to hear it... Take care.

Great. Let me know how it turns out.

Thank you kind Sir. Trust me, it is very easy.

Yes Sir. I've done same starting with 500 grit on my 686-3, and went up to 3000 grit. I really didn't see the need to be that detailed on this gun for the video. i may go back and do it one day, but its not high on my priority list right now. But thanks for sharing that with me. I appreciate you...

Are you sanding a polishing a blued gun?

@@mr2275cur I'm restoring a terribly blued gun to stainless.

@@noblenumenorean5165 Well, Unless I'm missing a vital piece of information here, that's not possible. What make and model gun do you have? Blued guns a made of carbon steel; not stainless steel. You can remove the blue finish, and even polish the metal to a high luster. But you will need to re-blue, nickel plate or Cerakote it to sufficiently protect it from rusting. Otherwise, it will rust terribly.

@@mr2275cur My 77 security 6 is stainless, it had a very poor cold blue on it, im taking it to mirror.

@@noblenumenorean5165 Gotcha.!!!! 👍👍

Thank you...

your love of revolvers is awesome! @@mr2275cur

Another good question Mr. Patrick. I only use 3M brand sandpaper. I've used some other German-made brand in 5000-7000 grit, but I try to stay away from Off-brand sandpaper. Sandpaper isn't so expensive that I'm willing to risk ruining an expensive gun to save a $1 or two on cheap sandpaper. 3M sandpaper is consistent and accurately made; and is flexible and durable for this type work. Please don't use the cheap paper from Harbor Freight.! You'll be sorry

There you go Big Country.! It's not difficult tp correct or improve these finishes ourselves, rather than paying a GS big bucks to do the same things. The correct materials is 90% of the process.

Clean good with gun cleaner of choice first. Then Mother's Polish works great to remove the burn rings. Also Birchwood-Casey Lead Removal Cloth.

Don't be scared Big Bruh. You are more than intelligent enough to do this; and anything else you put your mind to. Thanks for your support. I appreciate ya..!

Good question. I will typically mask it off with painters tape, especially when polishing. This guns top strap was easy to avoid while wet sanding and polishing.

I'd heard of it, but have never used it. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. I may just buy some and try it now.

LOL...!!! We are! Let me know how I can help...

LOL... Thank you.

Put headphone on and listen to music or watch a movie

@@PassportLife 🤣

Congratulations on the 27-2, and cleaning it up. Sounds like you stripped the blue off with the paint. Re-bluing it will probably be your best bet for long term maintenance. Otherwise, you'll be battling rust and pitting. Let me know what you decide.

Thank you for the kind words Mr. Rochelle. There's not need to worry about directional sanding. You're going to removing most of the factory marks anyway. I will typically sand in the direction that is most comfortable and easiest for me. That's usually in the direction where I can make the longest strokes. Good luck with your project.

Thank you. A true "mirror" finish can only be achieved by professional machine polishing with professional grade polishing compounds. But you can achieve a really clear and bright finish using this technique. I have a couple of questions. 1. Was your sanding method wet or dry? 2. What grit papers did you use from start to finish?

First let me thank you for the kind words. Attacking the polished area scratches is easy as you stated. But anytime you try to address scratches on beaded or flat finishes, you're going to change that finished area. You will need to decide what type of finish you're looking to have before you start. You can sand them out (or reduce them) to you're satisfaction, and then polish the entire gun. Or opt to have it bead blasted back to the original finish. Those 2nd and 3rd Generation semi's have so much surface area. I polished my 4506 to only slightly above satin to reduce my concerns about future scratches, but still improve the finish. I'm very happy with how it looks.

@@mr2275cur Thank you!👍

@@Capt_Killingfield 👍🏿👍🏿

First, thank you for the kind words. As far as my recommendations; It depends on what type of results you' want. You can achieve a bright polished finish without wet sanding a new 686. It will just take longer, and it may still have some faint grain swirls from factory finishing. Wet sanding with 2000 - 4000 grit will greatly reduce those if you desire a more mirror-like finish.

@@mr2275cur Thank you for the reply, sir. I think I’ll give the wet sanding a try. Take care and stay well.

@@MrMowork32 Will do. You too.

Sure you can. Just remember, you cannot just do a spot. You'll need to do the entire gun unless you restore the original finish to the scratched area..

Yes, mush more. Its not so much more shine, but the finish will get clearer and more reflective. It'll be noticeably more reflective.

@@mr2275cur Hey Big Swoll. Oh ok I see. So how far should I go in grit? 6000? What do you recommend?

@@valentingomez2193 That's strictly up to you. But, you're not going to see that much difference in results between grits as the paper become finer; especially by doing this by hand. The results from 3000 - 5000 grit will be more pronounced than the results you'll see from 5000 - 7000 grit. At some point you're just simply not going to get the gun finish clearer or more reflective by hand. You'll see what I mean.

@@mr2275cur oh I see. I will go up to 5000 for sure and I'm sure after polishing once again I will be set. I see people polishing with drills and machines. Does using drills and stuff like make it shinier? Drills with the cloth wheel attached to them I mean.

@@valentingomez2193 It d doesn't necessarily make them shinier. It just takes the manual labor out of the polishing. Thus you can polish faster and longer without getting tired.

I've not ever gone above 5000 grit on any of my hand polishing. My goals for my guns have been to get a really clear and bright finish; not a true mirror finish.. I think it would be very difficult to achieve a true mirror finish by hand-only polishing. You can try going higher, but I think you'll still find better but similar results. A true mirrored finish will almost certainly require some form of machine polishing.

Yes, help me out. Did you have more scratches when you finished than you had before you started? Did you use wet or dry sanding?

More than when I started and wet sanding.

@@franciscosalazar2247 That's hard to believe. I've never had happen to me. Are you using 3M Dry/Wet sandpaper or equivalent paper; or a cheaper brand.? Some cheaper sandpapers grit classifications are not uniform and will NOT yield desired results. Make sure your paper is thoroughly wetted before you start; and kept wet during the entire sanding process. Frequent wetting is paramount for good results. If you don't keep the paper wet and flushed, it will redeposit scratches on you gun.

I purchased Craftman brand at Lowe’s and 1200 from harbor freight. I attempted it agin today and same thing. Not the results I was looking for. Might just send it off to the pros.

@@franciscosalazar2247 That's an option. But I didn't want to state names, but PLEASE don't use that cheap hard paper from Harbor Freight. 3M, 3M, 3M. None of my guns have have sanding scratches in them.

Yes. I prefer water because it's cheaper, and oil doesn't prevent sandpaper loading as well as water does; and its a lot messier when doing an entire gun. I've used oil for spot polishing and finish restoration. But try oil and see which one you prefer.

@@mr2275cur thank you! I have a spot with just a few scratches on the sideplate of my Smith and Wesson model 66 no dash the rest of the gun is perfect. So I think I'll take your advice and just spot polish it with the 1000 grit and oil and move up in grit number as it progresses or as needed. Great video series!

@@heavydutyreviews1303 Thank you. Pay close attention to S&W finishing lines. They used a multi-direction technique to get their satin look. Take it slow.

Hey Big Swoll58 sorry for the multiple questions but will water get into the internal workings of the firearm if you use 1500 and then 2000 grit with water. Will the water have any kind of detrimental effect on the stainless revolver? Thank you so much!

@@heavydutyreviews1303 Great questions. The answer to both is YES and NO. Its always a chance that water will get inside the mechanics of the gun during wet sanding. And if it does, it may cause some issues if not removed. Not all stainless guns have all stainless steel parts, so water removal will be paramount to prevent internal rusting. Just remove the side plate and blow it out with compressed air. Then apply a generous amount of lubricating oil to displace any suspected moisture, and blot up the excess with cleaning cloths and q-tips. That should take care of it. WD-40 is a great water displacer, but it's not a lubricant. Use a good lubricant afterwards if you use WD-40 for water displacement.

I see this question was previously answered. I’ve used the 3m. Thought I kept everything pretty wet.

Try going up to 3000 grit, or even 4000 grit. You may always have some "micro" grain finishes marks at certain angles in bright light.. This will yield you a very clear, smooth and reflective finish, but not a true "mirror" finish.

No, it's not necessary. But that part of the slide won't be polished if you don't. However, don't do anything until you verify what the slide is made of before you sand or polish it. If it is rusting, it is probably not Stainless Steel. I'm not very familiar with the G2c, but I believe the blacked or blued slides are steel or a steel alloy. If they are, sanding off the finish will only lead to increased rusting. You may need to send it back to Taurus for recoating or have it CeraKote'd.

I hear you man. I only recommend wet sanding if necessary to remove scratches and grain marks. But if you decide to wet sand, use the least aggressive as possible sand paper to remove the scratches before polishing. Good luck.

@@mr2275cur thank you. Iam looking for 1500, 2000 and 3000 sandpaper and after this i polish it with mothers mag. Hope that my 629 looking like New after this. Greetings from austria

@@coregonusfishing It'll look better than new, if you like shiny reflective revolvers. Just remember to use light pressure when sanding and keep you paper wet. it'll turnout beautiful.

Well, I've owned 5 Taurus handguns in my life and have not experienced any major problems with either of them. Taurus handguns are very good ENTRY LEVEL handguns that should not be compared to S&W's, Colts or Rugers. They're less expensive for good reasons; they're lesser quality guns. As for this one, I just bought it to replace my first handgun that I previously sold. I bought it for a low price, and used it to demonstrate my polishing technique. It's a good plinking gun.

I've never done one myself, but there are many videos on the process. They demonstrate how to remove the Nitron coating without sanding by soaking the barrel (with the ends plugged) in distilled vinegar for 3-4 hours. Follow that up with washing / scrubbing it with low abrasive Scotch-brite and dish detergent. Rinse well, dry and polish with your favorite metal polish. Check them out to see if you'd like to try that method.

How bad or visual are these marks? Most if not all should be gone at 2500 grit.

Absolutely. You'll need to wet sand up to 7000 - 10,000 grit prior to final polishing. Tight crevices will be the challenge.

@@mr2275cur gotta learn how to break down my fire arm then dont lose the pieces

@@AllSoWavyReese LOL...! I know what you mean. I bought a magnetic tray to put parts in during disassembly to keep them from "getting lost". Use zip-lock bags for storage until ready to reassemble.

@@mr2275cur fasure imma do that

@@AllSoWavyReese Good luck. It'll turn out great. Just trust the process.

No Sir. I do all of my work by hand.

@@mr2275cur how do you get in hard to reach places ? Crevasses

@@angelovega5199 Good question. Very painstakingly. I'll often use wooden or plastic dowels and paddles, Q-Tips, etc. What ever works best at the time. I just stay away from Dremels and things because you can actually do more damage than good if you're not extremely careful.

@@mr2275cur thank you just subbed

@@angelovega5199 Thank you Mr. Vega.

You can buy it pretty much and hardware or auto parts store up to 3000 grit. I use 3M brand. I recommend NOT using cheaper papers like the Harbor Freight or Norther Tools brands because of there inconsistence grits and hard backings. Grits higher than 3000 can be found using on-line searches.

Yes it would. On this gun I decided not to start that aggressively because it wasn't that important to me to get that one scratch completely out. And it would have made a more obvious depression in the large flat area where it is located. It's a lot more inconspicuous now since its a lot more polished that it was.

Yeah, they are hard to totally eliminate too.

I enjoy it,thanks if it wasn't for you I wouldn't have the nerve. God bless

You too Sir...@@georgekasza7295

I didn't get lazy. I just don't currently have a punch small enough to remove the sight pin. But thanks for your keen observation...

Lazy ? His pistols are beautiful !