Definitely need to tow the mini boat with the Miata. At least for a thumbnail.

Make the hole in the outlet from the exhaust smaller to give the water more time to fill the cavity around the exhaust. I have never seen a engine water outlet on a boat just run out through a big hole. It is always a smaller hole that sprays the water in a thin stream. If the water do not fill the cavity completely the exhaust is going to get hot around the sensor. That is why the rubber pipe also gets hot.Hope you understand my sloppy english. English is not my first language. Keep up the good work.

Just my opinion. Don't narrow the axle on the trailer. Just extend the fenders to cover the tires. Those small trailers pull so much better with a wider axle. Also, opinion #2. A cooler in the driver side of the engine bay would be cool. Fab a nice aluminum heatshield for it. Having a cooler back there with lunch and cold drinks would be awesome.

Overheating issue is a pretty easy diag: when you're full throttle, the exhaust gases are moving faster than the water supplied to cool it whereas when you're just putting around, there is enough volume/pressure of water to keep the exhaust cool. When the temp alarm goes off, it's because your sensor is reading the exhaust gas temp until that chamber fills back up with water enough to cool that sensor down. You may have an issue with not enough water volume/pressure or both. Verify your water pump is working correctly, otherwise, you may need to redesign the exhaust cooling chamber to give the water a chance to cool the exhaust.

You should just build a "swim platform extension" to deal with that water splashing while in reverse. Fun project and adding real estate. Seems like a win-win from my house.

On the exhaust manifold there are two 90 degree elbows one on top and one on bottom they have restrictors in them make sure there not clogged. I own a jet ski shop in south Texas coastal performance

Taylor has the miata of the mini jet boats and I love it. 🤣

I think you need a restriction on your water outlet. This will allow the water pump to build pressure and force more water into the exhaust system. To add restriction, you need to tee the water outlets back together so they have the same outlet restriction and would maintain balanced flow.

Well I can certainly see why he wanted to get rid of that boat, it must have been no end of trouble the way it was.

The best way to wrap up a weekend is with a T-Ray video!

Remember this engine was not designed for open loop cooling. The exhaust and the engine were cooled differently. The engine was coolant and the exhaust and intercooler were cooled from lake water, well now you are throwing in cooling the engine from the lake water now so the water routing has to be changed for open loop cooling. Look up the way riva wants the open loop cooling done the restrictors in the pump Change when you do open loop cooling so make sure that’s correct also. The problem is a very simple one once you figure out how to get the correct flow to the exhaust. If need be you can tap the pump and do dual cooling so the engine and intercooler can be from one water inlet on the pump and the exhaust can be from the other water inlet on the pump. Remember if you overheat the exhaust it can melt the rubber exhaust hose and sink the boat quickly I have seen this happen to many pwc’s mainly seadoo’s. Good luck Taylor keep up the great content.

You know what I like about you bro. You dont muck around with a long intro. You get straight into it. You dont muck around in the workshop, you change the steering wheel and fix things like its no big task. Everyone else makes simple jobs like theyre so hard to do. You just do it

15 min in: doing most of your stuff by yourself is part of being a car guy and the reason why we love your videos. That being said: its cool to see you work with others who know their craft to steepen your learning curve. Plus its always great to have a reason to hang around with friends 😊

You the man Taylor. This series was a great surprise !

I want this lil guy! As Always, May God Bless you and yours! 😇

It looks like your reverse bucket (when down) will shoot water out the top of the bucket instead of shooting the water down under the boat. Try looking in to adding a rubber flap or flexible guard to the top of the bucket to the pump housing. It will stop the spray upwards! Cheers!

I think the ability to work on an engine is amazing! How you guy's understand the way they work is beyond my tiny little brain!

The poke on the tires isnt bad honestly. Might be a fun fab project to build some fenders you can stand on to fit the current width.

Nothing better than finding a great shop to teach you the ropes and help get a project dialed in. It inspires so much more confidence and gets you out having fun ASAP. To fellow mechanical nerds, support local shops and never be afraid to ask for some adult supervision (its cheaper than you think most times too)

Man I’m loving these videos! Can’t wait to see this thing caged with a windshield and sound system!

I'm with Taylor on just getting out there on the water and working through things is enjoyable and satisfying and I'm sure he'll figure it out. My 1 cent worth - Could be that the sensor placement in the resonator box is such that once it gets up to full pressure the sensor gets exposed more to superheated water vapor & steam rather than a more solid flow. (maybe not enough back-pressure?) Might have to pull off the rear deck lid to do this...but you could get a small section of clear tubing and a coupler to temporarily mate to the black exhaust tube going into the resonator box for some visual flow analysis while under full load, too bad you can't see thru the box though.

“Shortcuts lead to long delays” is true with cars but especially with boats!! Don’t bypass the sand trap it’s very necessary even backing off the beach. Get the bucket fixed/ re engineered for your boat asap, not having reverse could put you in a dangerous position. With a boat your just learning I’d keep the extra bilge pump! Lastly, trim in boating is crucial!! I understand you are just testing and live 5 min from the water but before you go through a thorough test or go any distance, make sure you have all the tools you can at your disposal! Boating can get very dangerous very quick. Love the videos Taylor keep up the great work!!

I love this man’s videos, but I also love the comment section. Feels likes a man showing us some dope projects and there’s always people that have there input that you can tell know there shit. It’s just a great vibe all around🤘🏼

You’ll be very glad you were able to get the electric trim working. It gives you more options with that type of boat.

Love the long format Taylor 🤘

First time ever seeing Taylor realign on another shop for 1 of his projects 🙃👏🏻👏🏻👌

Such a cool boat! Shows your skill level how well you were able to sort out these issues. It seems like the water pump might not be flowing enough. Judging by the wear on the carbon seal it's possible the pump is bad too.

Thanks for all the content you bring us.

I would check all the connections in that water system! Just because it’s not leaking water out, it could be sucking air in causing a similar cavitation. So under low load, no problem, but under heavy load it causes low flow allowing pockets of hot exhaust to trip your sensor.

1. Right side brake light out. 2.air filter??? Never been out on a dusty lake. 3. Check the pump for the water temp problem. You may have high speed cavitation at the fitting. Or needs a check valve on the exhaust fitting to not suck watered out the manifold.

Love how you use the dually to tow the little thing

He doesn’t miss! Loving the variety lately.

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but when you re-wrap the boat. Have the registration numbers read as such: FL 7462 TS. Spaces between the numbers and letters... This coming from a guy whos had a skiff for almost a decade with my numbers and letters bunched together and no ones batted an eye... But the correct way is with spaces... and i know how you are with being by the book. cool video as ushhh broseph.

Tayler Ray is gonna build a bigger boat 😂😂😂

Hey man, I'm loving the jet boat videos. There certainly is a lot more to these than I ever thought. Q. Have you got a link to your sunglasses. So thanks for sharing man ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia

I had a similar over temp problem with one of my jet skis... I had the computer flashed and didn't have have the problem again. The tech couldn't say why and was at a loss, but it fixed it.

Hell yea brother, needed a good show to watch before i watch the formula 1 race!

I wonder if the fresh water inlet off the jet drive was messed with. A minor diameter change with hoses that small make a huge difference in pressure/flow. Sensor orientation matters too, make sure the thing is the right way around.

Test the compression. It seems like it could be a head gasket or a crack in the cylinder wall or head. Considering that the water is not in a sealed system and is replaced with cool water in cycle it could be compression superheating the water under full throttle (higher pressure) which would make it cool down fast under low throttle (lower pressure). Just a thought. Kinda worst case scenario, but maybe worth considering.

i bought a seadoo spark one time that sitting for quite some time and when i test rode it, it was acting the same exact way. but after 20 minutes of ripping it hard it cleared up and never came back. swapped plugs once i got it home and never had another issue.

digging the boat content

I liked that green truck still grandmas car brother and heck yeah love to see it built up soon

If you boat alone you need to wear a jacket. I an a marine salvage diver have been on the water the majority of my life You bump your head and fall out you are dead..

Love your edits dude, doesn't matter what it's about I am all for it.

The original seadoo had a closed cooling system for the engine. And the exhaust used the jet pump water to cool it . The engine was cooled by circulated through a ride plate between the jet pump intake and rideplate. Engine runs coolant and exhaust runs raw water.

🤘😎👍 Sick, it's like the Miata edition. When you parse out what you really want, you can build the Vette version. 🤙

Had a similar issue on my seadoo and would only throw the exhaust temp alarm when going full throttle. Did some work and nothing. Took it to the marina and sure enough jetpump housing was cracked causing the cavitation.

Hey Taylor have you ever seen a copper spatula for welding holes? I think it would’ve helped with your plate you welded on instead of welding a new plate the weld doesn’t stick to the copper on the back side so you just basically fill the hole flush with weld, love the boat, love all the videos keep em up 👍🏽

Automatic like for jet boat content 👍🏻

Killer video as always man! All of your stuff is just top notch with the details. How do you like that ct150 injector bench? I’ve seen you use it in a couple of videos now and I think that would really come in handy to have one around

Coming from background of the old standup jetskis, I think your water exit is way too big. On skis they always have small outlets that actually spray the water out. Sometimes we maximize performance by putting restrictors in the exhaust to let them build more pressure in the exhaust for higher speeds. Other comments saying you are likely getting a hot reading due to water not being in the exhaust are correct i think. Shrink the size let it build pressure, if it gets too hot it will steam out of the pisser (that's what they're called in ski terms). Also, my vote is to keep the exhaust and engine cooling exits separate!!!! This allows you to rule out waterline clogs by which one is spraying out or if it isn't spraying enough. Good luck!

Ayy more jet boat content 🤘🏻🤘🏻 killin It!

Your reverse bucket problem is it’s adjusted too low, you just need to adjust its range of motion so it doesn’t go down as far/rests higher in the forward position. If you look at the deflection angle of the bucket when in the reverse position it’s angled where it will kick water up. Also you can see your forward/reverse lever jerk down a bit every time you hit the throttle hard, this is from the top of the jet thrust catching the lower lip of the bucket when in Forward.

Great job man!!

In my opinion your reverse bucket spray issue is caused by the bucket being spaced 3” or so behind the tip of the nozzle. That allows thrust to be directed vertically. If you look at the design of a Hamilton Jet or Ultra Jet buckets, there is no gap from the visible from the top when in the reverse position.

If you can find a standard ski that your motor came out of measure the outlets. They are that size for a reason. If after changing yours to the correct size your still having issues put a ball valve inline after the split to the oil cooler you can then throttle the water flow to send more or less to the exhaust.

25:10 I would put wider fenders on it. Having the wider axel adds a bit of protection for the boat when trailering.

The issue with the water spraying up on reverse seems like it may be coming up out of the top of the bucket and nothing to do with the horns themselves. When you plugged the holes it was worse because it had no where else to go. Just a theory from my observation because it seems like the bucket might be going too far down. 🤷‍♂️

Dang these jet boat adventures are cool! Makes me want a boat so bad 😂

Check head gasket man.. could be getting exhaust gases into your cooling system while wot and under boost. Just something to consider.

Look into the Jetski this motor came out of and see what exhaust hoses it used. Put the sensor in a different spot so it always has water going over it. Install a temp gage instead of that warning beeper.

I saw this on market place glad I didn’t buy it, I didn’t have the money for it anyway thank you for taking one for the team

Dude as fast as that thing goes, put your vest on. We want you to continue making cool stuff and not get hurt. God bless

Hey, Taylor. I haven't gone through the comments, so I don't know if this has been suggested, but try adjusting the reverse bucket down. The water should hit at the top of the bucket, when it exits the jet. This will keep it from shooting over the top of the bucket; all or most of the water jet will leave the bucket at the bottom, keeping you from taking a shower 😂

Might need to make the water exits a bit smaller the water pump may not be able to flow enough water to fill the system without air pockets.....are you sure water isnt being shot out of the top of the bucket when in "reverse" in turn splashing you with water?

Damn it’s almost like we told you multiple times that the trim was a big issue.

I'm not sure on the 4 stroke ski motors, but the 2 stroke jetski's spray a small amount of water into the exhaust gasses to keep the exhaust cooler. This could be blocked up and not spraying much if any water into the exhaust.

Try restricting the exit before the through hull. Maybe the waters flowing through the exhaust too fast. I know on skis the water exits are quite small

When u rerouted exhaust u took it out of the loop correct so it isn’t getting pumped just kinda flowing? Try throwing a electric water pump on it and see if it’ll help

Again, someone instantly mentions trim. I respect you Taylor and I myself have no idea admittedly, but if everyone is telling you trim is an issue maybe you should fix that 🤷🏻‍♂️ I know you’ll get her dialed tho. Fun to see some different content.

now I'm starting to like this thing, all the trouble shooting is interesting to me.

Drifting cars wasn't enough for Taylor, so now he's drifting boats. Next thing you know he'll be drifting his bus...

I kept thinking the video was about to end "with that being said" lol it was nice having a long video 😅

Cant wait to see you go out with Kyle and the gang when you get a chance. Might be worth shooting JP racing who worked with cleet and kyle a message if you run out of ideas for possible fixes and see if they have any ideas since they do a lot with those motors.

i think it would be sweet to lenghten the trailer tongue, better for multiple reasons. Also add a small 3_4 inch plexi deflector to the top of the aluminum "window" would hepl alot with spray and wind

whats the chances that exhaust gasses are making there way through what im assuming is a water jacket and hitting the temp sensor, small crack or something? would explain the steam from the exhaust (pressure in the coolant system is higher than exhaust) then when your giving it some power the exhaust pressure increases putting hot gas in the cooling system.

Wasnt that boat on a Cleatus video about a year or so ago, I think it was a meet-up going up the river.

I love when car guys do boat stuff…. Endless laughs for me…

If I was this guy I've always dreamed of having a boat engine like that of Burt Reynolds as Gator Mcklusky and that Awesome Jet / Rocket. I've looked and looked for something like that and can't find it. I found a boat just like the one used. Nothing looks more Boss than 2 long water jets shooting out like it did in the movie

Try replacing the exhaust manifold, the internal water jacket might be cracked and its pushing exhaust gases into the water jacket and boiling the water around the sensor. The pressure would just come out the exhaust and the overflow so you could never be able to tell.

I wonder if that canister/resonator is cavitating by the sensor when you rip on it. would make since why its fine when its going slow/cruising. maybe look into different design or placement of sensor.

That patch on the hull… a square you fitted the bull horns with circles.

Great content thanks for sharing

See if you can move the sensor or rotate the housing. If there are air bubbles they will read a lot hotter than the water.

Extend intake for Cold air intake behind the seats. No hot engine bay air to reduce power.

You could just have a faulty sensor for the exhaust side or could be something on the ecm side of things

Strip the exhaust system and look for blockage where the water get injected into the exhaust gas. If that is all perfect you will have to put a restrictor in the other half of the cooling system to prioritise the exhaust cooling.

Test your temperature sending unit/sensor..... Bring a multimeter with you on the boat. When the hi-temp alarm goes off, immediately unplug the sensor and ohm the terminals out. There are 2 types of temp sensors, one that measures an actual range of temps, and one that simply closes when it reaches it's preset temperature. If the terminals show a dead short when the alarm goes off, it's the type that simply closes a switch when it reaches it's set temperature. If you find a certain resistance whwn you ohm it out, then it generally reads a range of temps. Note the resistance reading when it's hot. Now take the sensor out and rig a piece of stiff wire, or whatever, to hold the tip of the sensor into a pot of water on your stove. Put a thermometer into the pot, hook up your multimeter to read the resistance, and slowly bring the temperature of the water up and keep an eye on your meter. Once your meter suddenly shows zero ohms from infinity, OR the resistance slowly changes and reaches the reading that you took on the boat when the hot light came on, read the thermometer in the pot. That is where the temp actually was when the sensor tripped the hot light/alarm. I have found temp sensors quite a few times on automotive engines that were WAY off of what they should have been, and for whatever reason, they ALWAYS seem to read much higher than the actual temp when they fail. My EFI drag car has had the sensor fail twice in 3 years, and when it starts to idle shitty because the sensor is reporting the wromg engine temps, I KNOW it's time for a new one. BOTH times that one failed, they both read approx 90° higher than the actual coolant temp. Strange failure mode that they both ended up failing by about 90°, but it is what it is. Check your sensor, it very well could be bad.

60A breaker at 27:45 goes from 8awg to 10awg. If it's for the starter, even 1'0" makes a difference.

Also check jet pump filter plastic nut on side of the pump

How fast, needs gps. The alarm could also be low oil pressure and not a heat issue. I would check the grate and make sure nothing is stuck bent etc. might need to get a different one that lets in more water

Did see a good bit of steam come out the back of the boat (guessing exhaust) is that aluminum piece exhaust and water or is the water run through a coil? If there is a crack and hot exhaust is getting in the water coolinglines it would definitely show hot with that exhaust hitting the sensor.

Make sure you aren’t using the factory restrictor washer. Either drill it out or replace with a standard o-ring. I’m going to assume this is a 2017 engine since they are most likely to have this issue. The washer is located between the jet pump and the pump adapter ring on the transom.

Maybe try to run them all in series so that they will all receive the same flow rate. Just prioritize which needs coldest water first. Probably charge cooler > engine > exhaust

Could there be an air pocket forming under heavy throttle at the temp sensor?

Thanks perkonsian nya bro

Right brake light on the trailer!!!!😉

I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to test water pressure at various points on the discharge section of the cooling system. Also verify the actual temperature.

Did you replace the thermostat? Had the same issue with my twin SVHOs.

I mean you obviously have to wrap it like the vette and make some sort of hitch work for trailer burnouts.