There must be a market for implementations of reference designs with quality components.

WARNING: this boards came WITHOUTH thermal paste, also needs a fan to cool the dissipator, and also the chips need to be isolated with mica or something like that (i think the blue paint acts like isolator)

Maybe you mod something like this for optimum performance over the winter. Probably not cost-effective, I suppose. Would an inexpensive car amp strapped to 12v HP server supply make more sense.

I've got a similar board with the same chip, but the choke heats up like crazy.. so much as to enamel of the wire started burning, this is at 24v AC 8amp supply

I have Same this board with 8 capacitor of 1000mfd currently i use transformer 25 0 25v - 10A

Hello bro, I have such an amplifier. I have only been using it for 2 days but while I was using it I heard an SMD capacitor explode. Can that still be fixed? thanks for the answer. I'm sad because I still owed the money I bought for that amplifier and it broke right away 😢

Been looking forward to this video

Can you recommend an alternate amp-board that uses this chip? thx

Hi, I used 30-0-30 ac and on switch on R10;12;24 and c4;39 burned out. Can you help. Regards

Hi there mate. I'm thinking maybe you can help me somehow. I have the same board, the one with less capacitors, bought from china. I build one amplifier using this, with a Bluetooth module and a tone correction with base middle and treble adjustment. I've supplied this with a toroidal transformer of 2x30v and 2x12 volts at about 500w. it was working perfect. I've sold this amplifier to someone and he brought back to me next day, saying that it was playing just 2 songs. What I saw, all the potentiometers were at maximum level and he was playing on a 700w speakers, but I don't know if it was at 4 or 8 ohms. Now the amplifier module it gives me DC voltage on one of the outputs. I've supplied this time with a normal transformer of 2x12volts at 7amps, I have the blue light on but no sound, removed heatsink, it is not getting hot, but as I said I'm getting around 17volts on one of the output. I am not an electrician, but I like to play with DIY audio modules. Could you help me what to check and maybe repair it?? I did not remove any of the main chips, but few capacitor to check them out of board, because one of them from right channel looking from the top, it shows me shorted on continuity. Even after removed this one, the pcb is still shorted on their pads. It's about C50. Also the 2 resistance R12 and R8 shows me different values on the board. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance

Have you ever designed your own amp PCB? If you sold a kit you designed I'd buy it.

hey, i have the same board as yours, the one with less capacitors, i have 2 150w rms /300w peak speakers (i actually dont want to break them, they're some high quality speakers, from the 90s)

Como comprar este produto

So in a nutshell these arent worth bothering with, by the time youve paid out for all the upgrades

Punya sy ic konslet

Hope you’re well mr Smoke? Seems very quiet 🤫

always burn smd capacitor

Hi ya, I found your video while looking for repairing washing/dryer machines and came across your chips n fuses repair I am now subscribed, "click" ,, very informative and easy on the ears NICE JOB ,,, I wonder if you can help my LG dryer just packed up with a loud bang and the smell of cows as you describe ha ,,, i've repaired it once before by replacing the main board and motor as the same, everything worked perfect for a few years now its is over heating and I just want to replace the component thats blown as I can keep buying mainboards just of one component haha i've tracked down the problem to a Triac BCR8PM-14L that went Ka BOOM but its a discontinued transistor so no one in the uk has it not RS Components or Farnel,, would you know of an equivalent I can use to replace this transistor BCR8PM-14L for a LG TDC70045E dryer, its Main PCB Module is 6871EC1113G