Teaching a Static climber to become Dynamic (with

  Рет қаралды 70,769

Emil Abrahamsson

Emil Abrahamsson

Күн бұрын

Today I've got an epic guest, ‪@hannahmorrisbouldering‬ ! We have a session together where the goal is to improve her fairly static style into a more dynamic one, and see what we can learn from a few small projects.
Hannah and Nathan's social media
/ _hannahmorris_
/ nathanbetts_
/ channel
My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone madrock.com/collections/shoes...
MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/collections/shoes...
Chalk Bucket
madrock.com/collections/chalk...
Chalk bag
madrock.com/collections/chalk...
Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.
PATREON LINK HERE: / emilabrahamsson
Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!
Instagram:
/ emil_abrahamsson_
/ cordiclimbs

Пікірлер: 66
@hannahmorrisbouldering
@hannahmorrisbouldering Жыл бұрын
Hahaha the thumbnail! Thanks for a fun session and for showing me the way of the dynamic climber 🎉
@eurekaflows
@eurekaflows Жыл бұрын
As someone who's watched several of your collab videos, IMO: this is the first time where your collaborator (Emil) actually understood your climbing well enough to give meaningful and spot-on advice for improvement.
@ArchibaldVonSkip
@ArchibaldVonSkip Жыл бұрын
Everytime I see you climb you are better than the last time! Incredibly impressive, tbh. Climb on!
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Thanks Hannah! Hoping we can meet up again when you’re out travelling 😄
@andrewkim9503
@andrewkim9503 Жыл бұрын
I think you nailed it on the head Emil. I was always wondering why Hannah's style felt a little less efficient on certain climbs despite moving so cleanly and being able to move dynamically. She's clearly capable of both styles at a strong level. It seems to be the pausing and decision making on the wall that's causing more energy usage.
@jordanbroadhead7388
@jordanbroadhead7388 Жыл бұрын
You are a great Coach Emil! I have seen other videos with people coaching Hannah into doing a lot of coordinating type boulders but it was actually really interesting to see your approach. Looks like it will really make a difference in her climbing if she continues to be mindful of it
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Cheers mate, thank you! ☺️
@AllegraClimbingPsychologist
@AllegraClimbingPsychologist Жыл бұрын
Two of my favorite climbers together! I used to be very static, but I worked a lot in the last two years to being more dynamic. Getting flow in dynamism is till difficult, but so rewarding! My biggest issue is that we don't have those huge comp-style holds to use in my gym, so it's hard to practice. Loved especially your analysis of Hannah's decision making process and how it impacts her commitment! Lovely video!
@marcoherrera-rendon9533
@marcoherrera-rendon9533 Жыл бұрын
17:10 is the most ridiculous/impressive brushing I've seen 😄
@CorneKooyman
@CorneKooyman Жыл бұрын
So not only can our man @emil climb, but he is a pretty damn good coach too. I've never seen the "one-arm-brush-a-hold" technique before. Is this a new skill? Should I learn it? 🤣
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Haha aww, thanks homie ❤️ now as a coach I can also say that yes, it’s the most valuable climbing technique there is, right up there with handstand push up
@hongigo
@hongigo Жыл бұрын
It's the Miyagi stile of teaching climbing. Brush the hold!
@jeremyng1021
@jeremyng1021 Жыл бұрын
@@EmilAbrahamsson i need to learn how to do some handstand push ups now so i can impress my friends with the one-arm-brush-a-hold too
@palomacarrion2356
@palomacarrion2356 Жыл бұрын
Those were great tips - tack så mycket, Emil! PS. Just saw the other video on Hanna's channel and you're such a good coach!!
@Eyllexx
@Eyllexx Жыл бұрын
Right before I need to go to class, then I just have the excitement to watch it after class😂. Thanks for the video
@TheZappic
@TheZappic Жыл бұрын
It's so nice to see collabs with channels I follow for quite some time already ^^
@danwallis1984
@danwallis1984 Жыл бұрын
Emil, you have such a great way of teaching and imparting knowledge. Well done.
@jaimseygirl2594
@jaimseygirl2594 Жыл бұрын
Loved the video! You were one of the first climbing channels I followed when I started climbing 10 months ago. While I LOVE your channel and the channels of other super strong climbers, when I found Hannah’s channel it was relieving to see someone at a more similar level to myself, trying hard and learning along the way. Fantastic collab!!
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Thanks a ton! Good luck with your climbing journey, psyched to hear you’re finding inspiration in our videos ❤
@colehibbard2851
@colehibbard2851 Жыл бұрын
Emil, I remember really learning this when you commented on Adam ondra’s style. He may not be a dynamic climber in the sense of 360 coordination paddle dynos, but he’s excellent at using momentum to make movements more efficient. Sometimes things like cutting feet to quickly place a foot are actually much more efficient
@janosneumann1987
@janosneumann1987 Жыл бұрын
Such a great video I learned so much thank you both ❤
@rw7446
@rw7446 Жыл бұрын
Great video Emil! You’re a great instructor. Thanks for sharing!
@Dave1507
@Dave1507 Жыл бұрын
So cool to see you two in the same video!
@sldenn5303
@sldenn5303 Жыл бұрын
I am here for this! I would love to have a dynamic learning session with this man!!! He is amazing 🥰🤩🥰
@alexpdream677
@alexpdream677 Жыл бұрын
I am so impressed by Hannah progress! 🔥 My friends also call me very dynamic climber and I completely agree! I find it so much fun when you need to move through the boulder quickly. You completely concentrate on what you are doing which helps to enter the flow ❤ By the way I think that making your own routes on the wall could help with dynamic climbing, because you start to understand how route setters plan out climbers body movements. I feel like I immediately know were is the next foot hold, just based on my body position and next hold
@TheStuffofDaydreams
@TheStuffofDaydreams 29 күн бұрын
“You can tell that my brain definitely has a max speed” Mood, Hannah😂
@Nicoandthepage
@Nicoandthepage Жыл бұрын
Love the collabs and the content overall! Would love to see you with captain cutloose as well!
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Wish that too, if I’d stayed just one more day in the UK it probably would’ve happened 😢 next trip!
@a.malaspina6702
@a.malaspina6702 Жыл бұрын
Emil is actuall a very good coach!!
@lekanteto
@lekanteto Жыл бұрын
Wow, I'm impressed by your teaching style.👍
@Theboardbro
@Theboardbro Жыл бұрын
such a fantastic video and it could be interesting to see the opposite where a static climber teaches a dynamic climber to climb more statically!
@jimmahgee
@jimmahgee Жыл бұрын
I was at TCH Reading a few weeks ago and I shied away from that first blue problem (even though it’s well within my grade boundary). I’m more of a “static climber” like Hannah. I won’t get to go back again to climb it but hopefully I can take some of the knowledge and energy from this video with me for the next time I’m in that mindset!
@jimmahgee
@jimmahgee Жыл бұрын
Omg I climbed the second problem… it’s so weird seeing something I’ve actually climbed in a video!! Anyway, guilty as charged, same as Hannah 😅
@Voidload
@Voidload Жыл бұрын
Great collab!
@FlashFocused
@FlashFocused Жыл бұрын
Really mindful coaching in this video
@nekomancer4641
@nekomancer4641 Жыл бұрын
I used to be pretty static. But after an elbow injury I've actually became more dynamic with my left hand moves cuz I need to use the dynamism to reduce my right elbow's load bearing
@Emilie-fg6vs
@Emilie-fg6vs Жыл бұрын
You're a really good coach!!
@deslomator
@deslomator 11 ай бұрын
"My brain has a max speed". That I can really relate to; when I go beyond that speed limit everything is like a blur, but it's also really funny how often I successfully complete the sequence nonetheless.
@SonnyKnutson
@SonnyKnutson Жыл бұрын
I am definitely a more static climber. I really struggle with accuracy when going for dynamic moves. Even just deadpoints I can be off a hold by up to 5cm. Sometimes even missing the hold completely. That makes dynamic climbing really low percentage for me as I tend to fail over and over. I understand practice can make my ability to make dynamic moves longer, further and faster. But the accuracy is very difficult to practice I feel. As soon as I start moving my body a bit faster my vision becomes more blured. The hold moves in my visual reference and I need to not just move my arm and body to get to the hold but I also need to adapt that movement with my now moving vision as well. Which while blurry is additionally difficult xD
@TheValinov
@TheValinov Жыл бұрын
you might want to train your intuitive musle memory - i forget the exact term for this. you can try it on a system/spray wall or on a simple problem with big holds. you climb the boulder 1 time normal. you climb the boulder, but after every move you go back one move and try the move with closed eyes. that will train your brain to know where your limbs are while not watching at it. like when you walk you dont always have to look where your foot goes... maybe that helps a bit.
@Miles26545
@Miles26545 Жыл бұрын
@@TheValinov good idea
@siffoine
@siffoine Жыл бұрын
I learned that I climb exactly like she does… well not exactly, worse, but the style is the same. Great tips 👍
@muffindolphindaphnee
@muffindolphindaphnee Жыл бұрын
Hannah is such a fast learnerrr
@cwehden
@cwehden Жыл бұрын
amazing improvement just focusing on fundamentals
@Theaddekalk
@Theaddekalk Жыл бұрын
both is my favoruite
@cedricl.marquard6273
@cedricl.marquard6273 Жыл бұрын
Something that akways helps me with dynamic move, is commiting to the move itself, but not the hold. Basically intentionally just not grabing it but overshooting it. Then you realise how close the hold actually is and that always removes a lot of the mental block for me
@faithfitness6434
@faithfitness6434 Жыл бұрын
Ahh 😮 good thought process will try that
@operkymaybe3488
@operkymaybe3488 Жыл бұрын
From my experience, dynamic climbing is better if you can use it as it uses less energy, however on harder stuff dynamic climbing becomes not possible, so it’s good to have both styles recruited depending on the climb
@Brookwin
@Brookwin Жыл бұрын
Where are the pants from brother
@Vincentvalentine1804
@Vincentvalentine1804 Жыл бұрын
Thanks
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Oh thank you! Greatly appreciate it
@woodynederl
@woodynederl 10 ай бұрын
I have been looking for baggy climbing pants for a while now but haven't found anything yet. Those you have on look pretty comfortable, any chance you are willing to share where they are from?
@loganwassill7003
@loganwassill7003 Жыл бұрын
I feel like Hannah, thank you Emil
@TheNewMediaoftheDawn
@TheNewMediaoftheDawn Жыл бұрын
Whatever works, slow or fast, ascension is the goal…🎉
@aidanmcknight8119
@aidanmcknight8119 Жыл бұрын
Have you done a video on breathing technique while climbing?
@jamessanders7035
@jamessanders7035 Жыл бұрын
It's interesting how often I hear Josh Garrels on this channel
@KoMarekt
@KoMarekt Жыл бұрын
I am 190 cm tall and even most of my dynos are static
@Miles26545
@Miles26545 Жыл бұрын
What do you do if you kind of suck at both but dyno unnecessarily
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
Continue dynoing, can never get enough dynos out there
@bewarebear22
@bewarebear22 8 ай бұрын
Anyone know what pants Emil’s wearing here? Need new ones soon haha.
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson 8 ай бұрын
They're from Uniqlo, I got them at a massive discount, love em. Corduroy pant.. something
@qtprot
@qtprot Жыл бұрын
Vart är byxorna från? :)
@georgegray2712
@georgegray2712 Жыл бұрын
And 18:14 is why I’m weary of dynamic climbing - it’s just so easy to get injured.
@EmilAbrahamsson
@EmilAbrahamsson Жыл бұрын
To be fair it didn’t happen on a dynamic move but on a nasty hold. However you’re not wrong, dynamic moves offer a bit more risk
@crystalding5589
@crystalding5589 Жыл бұрын
Du er en ENESTÅENDE FORMIDLER, EMIL!
@patrickbarthman9871
@patrickbarthman9871 Жыл бұрын
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