"But don't worry, we can move the bar lower." 🤣

The sharpie trick was amazing. This is something you could easily integrate into a 3d printer's nozzle.....

“If you’re going to do it you might as well do it right, with fire” man is an honorary Floridian.

Oooooh, I like this one because I am a proud owner of The Janky Ender 3 Pro (which still works despite all upgrades I commited to it). So... My list: 1. You heard of "cold pull", now introduce "hot push" to unclog heat creep. At first, heat up hotend to 280C and disable hotend fan so heat can transfer up to cold zone. It softens clogged plastic enough for it to be pushed out. Push in some cheap 1.6mm weed wacker string. When plastic starts extruding, turn on hotend fan and continue pushing weed wacker string until it starts extruding clean. Turn off hotend heater, while still pushing weed wacker string. Push it until it stops melting. Wait for hotend to cool down and do a cold pull. Now hotend should be clean enough for the next clog. 2. Replacing the nozzle is a well documented procedure, but I was getting leaks anyway. Probably hotend wasn't hot enough so I detached hotend assembly from printer, removed heater cartridge and thermistor, gently heated it with propane torch up to "not glowing yet" and tightened it up. No leaks since then. 3. Filament dryer can also dry socks. 4. Jon from ProperPrinting showed in his lamp build video cool technique to increase mass of printed part for cheap. Pause printer before it starts covering infill, pour in sand, resume printing. 5. Mainsail/Fluidd don't know how to "start printing job later". Or I didn't update for too long? Anyway. G4 P3600000 pauses for 1 hour. Thanks, bye!

For a cheap way to dry your filament: You have a nice heated surface already! Just stick the spool on your heated bed, set an appropriate temperate, cover with cardbox box or similar. and go.

I am a firm believer in a janky cardboard enclosure. The thick cardboard that comes on new bed mattresses is perfect. It's thick enough that you can hot glue it together, I actually hot glue the cardboard to an old hardwood coffee table I put my 3d printers on. It works so good, I even use some packing tape to make hinges so I have cardboard doors on my cardboard enclosure, it's so janky it's awesome.

"I discovered there's a spider living on my Rat Rig and I'm going to leave it there... [begins outro]" LOL that was gold

For what it's worth, every version of Cura I've ever used has a checkbox for "union overlapping volumes", which works exactly like the hack but without any fuss whatsoever.

That sharpie thing honestly should become a built-in feature, it's incredible.

You could improve the spool joining technique with even more jank: just leave the PTFE tube on the fillament! It’s not going to block anything.

Janky tips: 1. If applying glue stick to the bed is too tedious for your liking, you can just use hairspray. 2. For 3D scanning, you don't need the expensive scanning spray to make a part matte - you can just use dry shampoo. It stinks, but it's dirt cheap and leaves a matte dust.

I print out a bunch of 2.75mm PETG rods of different lengths. Then I hot glue them as crossbraces from support to support. It works amazingly well for printing tall skinny things... An example: Basically if you want to print something like a harry potter wand straight up and down you would add 2 tall rods beside the wand in the slicer, they can be round or square doesnt matter. Use print by object and make the rods hollow with a nice brim so you arent wasting as much material. Now when it is a printing you can pause the print every few inches and hot glue some crossbraces on no problem. Be careful to apply the glue outside the printer and get rid of any stringing, you dont want your part cooling fan to suck in the wisps and it stays liquid long enough that you dont have to apply it directly inside the printer. Another great bit of jank i seen was using thoae flat button style magnets to hold down brims and also you can pause the print about a half inch or an inch into it and place magnets inside the supports. I am printing out a 40hr kroq-Gar statue where the supports all swoop in at extrememe angles from outside to catch things in the middle. These would absolutely break or fail if I didnt employ the magnet and hotglue jank. Youd be surprised how tall and skinny you can make things while getting literally perfect results even at 0.08mm where the nozzle is constantly rubbing.

For the color in supports segment. Gluestick is PVA. Pla sticks to it enough to lay down, but it prevents layer adhesion, so the support will still pop off.

I don't worry about joining filament. When one gets closer to running out I just feed the second in right behind the first as the printer is running slowed down. The extruder happily catches it and keeps on feeding as you help it by pushing it in from behind as needed.

Another janky habit I have is to move my printhead to push parts from the bed remotely, so that they fall out and a new print can be started. This works especially well with camera setups like in Bambu printers and octoprint setups

I've often joined leftover filaments with a translucent ptfe tube. After pushing the melted ends together, pull them a little and the weld will thin out again, so you can get closer to a perfect 1.75.

Awesome to see my model in your video thank you :)

Torch for stringing is amazing, way better than heat gun, but you dont need a full blown torch LOL Those little pocket torch lighters from the gas station work perfect for this, and have a small flame you can pinpoint spots with. Also works great to remove stress marks from ABS.

Here is my janky one :D When I had issues with ABS lifting in corners, I used a knife to cut a piece of glue stick. Shoved it in, and used a torch to soften the curling part. Than used the spatula that came with the printer to push down the curved part into the glue stick. I did this now on a few occasions and works like a charm if you only have 2-3 layers above the bed and the print started to curl already. Janky as hell but work :D

I tried to join two rolls of ABS in a similar way. Turns out the last 3 meters of material on the roll were significantly more brittle, so I had to fix a mid-print failure 3 times within 10 minutes, as the material kept snapping before reaching the weld. I always print on a bed covered with polypropylene or paper tape. Every material works with only one of them. I was too lazy to update the firmware, so I added 100 ohm resistor in series with the thermistor to raise the max print temperature. I use car lightbulbs to heat the printer chamber

Here at the bad idea factory, to print ABS on my Prusa Mini in an enclosure heated to 70C. The parts on the printer melted. I now had a Prusa Mini with a bunch of twisted parts. By reheating the parts, I was able to straighten them enough to reprint new parts. Using those, I was able to reprint a second batch of new parts that was actually straight.

Many years ago my shop teacher told us "If you can't fix it with fire then it was never really broken to begin with". He then followed that up with "Everything can be fixed if you replace enough parts". I miss that guy.

Just so you know, Cura has a setting to merge overlapping models too, called Union Overlapping Volumes (within the Mesh Fixes settings)

I used a 'retired' CPAP machine as parts cooler. The air-flow was constant-pressure, but that was adjustable. A hose from the CPAP to the hot-end did the trick. The 'water-test' was fun...at full pressure, the air-blast almost emptied the coffee-cup! This was cooling for a Tevo Little Monster delta printer....so long ago...

The sharpie trick is amazing. I think you should make an independent video about it and testing different settings, patterns and maybe a printable mod that we can attach to the printer so it prints a patter. I think that a patter will be better than coloring it all, because you will gain good adhesion, but also you will be able to remove the support.

Some manufacturers sell G10 and G11 with the name Resin Fiberglass Plate or Epoxy Fiberglass Plate. Also, you can scratch the surface with Low Grid Sandpaper or a wire brush to give it extra grip. It also changes the first layer from glossy to matte finish. Also also, you can buy PEI sticker sheet and Boom, now you have a dual-faced bed

Here's one I got- when printing multi-material (EG PLA-PETG or PLA-BVOH/PVA) in prusaslicer the transition towers would sometimes delaminate due to the materials not adhering together, and sometimes this could cause a print failure. My jank solution? After slicing a first time, make a box shape and edit its dimensions to contain the tower, setting its material to whichever is the main material. Reduce infill to something like 5-8%, reduce perimeters to 1 or 2. The jank part is that you're printing over the same place in a single layer, but this encases the transition tower, and the infill of the container object "holds down" the transition tower's layers. It also might be possible to also just make the container a draft shell around the tower to just contain it if it becomes a spaghetti mess, but I never tried that (arguably easier and less material intensive) option.

😂 the thumbnail is great

I loved that you had the true retro bit audio in your intro, when you first started your channel, and love that you haven’t changed it. 3d printing in 2024 is getting pretty awesome. I dearly hope KZfaq is making it all worth the hard work now. It’s funny watching you over the last 7 years. You use to come across so robotic and uptight. Like the standard teacher, that taught the same curriculum over and over. I must say you seem heaps more relaxed and happy in 2024. Please keep up the amazing work. 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎☮️🍀

1. To hold something in place so that you can remove it later, pick up some PCL (Polycaprolactone). It turns into a moldable putty at 60C and becomes sticky at 65-70C, yet becomes as tough as nylon when cool. If, for example, a support comes loose, you can use hot glue to stick it to the build plate, then heat some PCL up to 70C in hot water, followed by mashing it into the support and print. After the print is done, dipping the part with PCL stuck to it in some more hot water will allow you to remove it easily without deforming the print. It is also great for low-friction surfaces. 2. I once made a woodgrain print by using a dark-brown sharpie on only part of some wood filament. I coloured a section of it darkly, but haphazardly. It worked pretty well, all things considered, with darker brown streaks along the layer lines/etc. 3. Instead of learning a complicated CAD app to make a model, figure out the absolute basics of OpenSCAD and just keep trying things over and over until your model looks good enough. (There are also *LOTS* of code snippets you can steal from the cheat sheet/Stack Exchange/etc.) 4. Sample rolls of filament can placed in a 3lb coffee can that is stuck to the frame of your printer by magnets. It will work just fine and never, ever tangle. 5. You can make a gluestick mount for your extruder, use it to 'print' the first layer of your model with an offset to match the position of the holder, cancel the print, remove the gluestick, then print the model as you would regularly. 6. Placing a cake pan upside down over your leftover pizza on the (heated) bed works great for a hot breakfast. 7. There is no law that says you can't use compressed air to cool parts down. YMMV. Obviously. 8. There is no law that says you can't use your sister's closet for an enclosure, with all of the filament hung on the rack where her clothes used to be. YMMV. Obviously. 9. There's no law that says you can't use your mom's Vitamix to grind down your waste prints. It will be fine. I'm sure of it. I'm sure it will come off with a dental pick. No, I won't scratch the polycarbonate. Nothing. Nothing happened. Everything is perfectly fine. IT'S FINE! THAT SCRATCH WAS THERE ALL THE TIME!

the marker support release worked surprisingly well! the result was awesome

That sharpie trick I might actually use. Got a project that just doesnt have a good way to support it and look at the same time.

I name all my spiders George. They are my friends. Though, sometimes they move out unexpectedly and I'm left feeling lonely and betrayed.

I’m loving the humor on this one!! Thank you for a good laugh and good tips! 🎉❤

Thanks Michael, I love the filament joining method and the wheelie big bags.

Been trying the join technique for awhile. I have never gotten to work correctly. I will definitely try the smaller ptfe tube. For PETG I use windex goes on with no mess. Spread it around a bit with a paper towel the heat of the bed drys it up. Prints pop off with no issues. Just clean with IPA when swapping back to pla.

Maybe cutting the PTFE tube along its length would make it easier to take it out after merging the filaments?

That was a great segment love the content and the splicing was brilliant.

I was totally expecting a waste of time “life hack” video, more than one of these I didn’t know and will use ! Thanks!

I don't know how janky this is, but I have a trick for speeding up print surface/part cooling after a print. I use a hot pad to remove the spring steel build plate as soon as the print ends, then put that on the biggest piece of metal I can find. I use our big metal sheer at work, but a table saw, band saw, drill press... would work too. I push the print surface down, to stop it from warping as it cools. The metal acts a a big heat sink and you can feel the build plate cooling down rapidly. It's great for impatient people.

This is the coolest video idea ever! I didn't know about any of these! Amazing.

Nice video concept! Informative and very clear, as usual in this channel.

Took a couple tries to get the process down, but the smaller PTFE tube splicing worked great! Thank you!

I finally got to try the sharpie trick, and it works great! It did uncover a problem with my Klipper idle timeout settings, but the support came right off and the first mesh layer looked great.

great presentation; appreciate the depth on each jank !!

You can also use two spools just by pushing the new one in when the old one is running out. I have done this multiple times one my Ender 3 V3 SE without problems. Just lower the printing speed manually to make it easy and it does not take long. Obviously you need to time it well but it is super nice to use all the fillament leftovers and such, or on big prints if you plan for it.

Spiders are just about always welcome in my home. They're great for debugging! I like that idea of joining filament with a PTFE tube as a guide. Since you're using only a small piece, wouldn't it be worth it to split it open with a knife rather than slide it all the way to the end of the filament?

i think you are 2 yrs ahead of the community . GR8 video bro

My Jankiest - Using Peel and Stick Chalkboard on my Glass Bed. I got 10 prints out of 1 application before I switched to PEI Sheet. Worked Great once dialed in. Went PEI for the Flex and higher temp range

I always love it when you and Angus reference your old Solidoodles. I still have my 2 and 4.

Very unique video idea. Will definitely use the sharpie support trick in the future.

As a newbie to the game (with very limited funds) this is priceless. Thank you :)

Jank tricks show the difference between a pro and a newbie running 3d printers. Bravo!

I am always cleaning my strings with fire as I am printing on high speeds and high temperature. And my work doesn't demand high aesthetics. The part with the garbage bags was hilarious)) Thanks for the video!

0:01 Damn, not even 5 seconds into the video and this man just summed up my entire life.

I had no idea about the sharpie marker method on support material. That is amazing and will change my life. 😎

Very appreciated! Gambiarra videos are the best ones! :D

love the sharpie trick... will definitely try that one.

Brilliant tips, thanks for sharing!

To join 2 loose ends of filament i use a cheap hair straightener where i sandwich the ptfe tube in between to get it warm enouh. It won’t heat up a very large area as with a heat gun and doen’t get to hot as with a lighter.

I started using the torch finishing way back with my first printer back in like, 2014 ,and still use it to this day! I think it's probably the one tip I wish more people would use. So easy and fast.

Oh boy, I've done all of them except one! I've done the bag enclosure, also coupled it with a cardboard box enclosure, also the bank filament join for terrible multicoloured prints, and used a mini blowtorch (the chef ones) regularly for removing wispy bits. I also use the slicer 'boolean' all the time to modify prints, it's been ages since I have reverted to CAD. I made a Mandolorian jetpack/Mr Fusion mashup completely just using the slicer tools. I used the blower side of a vacuum cleaner as a part cooler, I'm yet to try the sharpie method for supports, but it's on my list for sure. Other bank things are using a piece of Kapton tape as a bridge when a support has fallen over, using my finger as a bridge when a support has fallen over, and turning the Z-couplers by hand to adjust the first layer while printing.

The thumbnail is a true work of art 😂

Excellent content as always, thanks!🎉

I like your new funny format. )

I use a mini torch all the time!! It also helps to recover the color after sanding or trimming supports.

that desktop fan for part cooling really works. My 5015 blower fan broke somehow and i used a desktop fan. worked like a charm

Dang, this one of *THE* most useful 3D printing tips vids ever! Long live jank! 🙇‍♂️

My jankiest hack is cutting 5cm thick blocks from printer packaging foam and putting them under the printer. For even better results, do this inside an enclosure or on top of a board and put another four blocks under that. That'll silence the printer right down to almost nothing. The thin 1cm foam covers don't work, because the printer settles into the foam over time. It has to be faily thick.

That's much better than my janky way of joining spools. I just watch the print, and as it's about to use the last bit of fillament, I start pushing in the new one, keeping consistent force pushing it in until the extruder gear grabs it. It means retractions are garbage for a bit, but it works surprising well.

Slice the PTFE tube off unless you want to save it but you can actually use it again by wrapping it around and next time it will be easier to remove

For TPU which sticks too well to pei, I have one side of my sheet which I rub my oily face on, and touch with my fingers. The has 2 advantages, I can handle my sheet much easier when I can touch one side, so there other side stays perfectly clean, and TPU has perfect adhesion on the greasy side. I just flip the sheet when changing filament types. Been doing this for years.

This was fantastic! Ep. 2 soon? 😅

A trick I used to use was using sugar water instead of glue on my print bed. Was incredibly cheap and worked great. Unfathomably messy though.

Used flame on occasion. My TH3D flex plate works great unaided with PETG. I just add 0.04 extra clearance to the nozzle. Wait for it to cool as it *really* sticks when heated. What's nice about Klipper is you can create an M600 macro for universal compatibility. Any M command that isn't already used in Klipper is fair game for a macro.

Another trick for ABS is a small heater next to the printer blowing warm air. No bag needed (fire hazard?) Good video! Keep them coming!

Well done. Used the flame for stringing. Janky might include using old MS 3dbuilder to join parts.

I prefer the term "expedient". Great tips--Thanks!

"...do thing the *right way*" **does SINGEL FINGER AIR QUOTES** brilliant!🤣

@Teaching Tech, As for combining filaments, I use silicon tubing (1/8"O.D. x1/16" I.D.), using a soldering iron to heat, and slice it off afterwards. It works better than any other method I have ever tried.

Guilty of the SolidSnake option (the humble cardboard box!) vice a plastic bag to help keep the printer warm! Thank you for all the jank (especially the ptfe tip! ordering some ASAP).

YES!!! I love those plates from VpsData. I use them for pla, PETG, ABS and ASA. You should ask him for a G11 plate. Best solution for printing TPU.

Here's one that I used yesterday: I needed to print a small part that goes inside a car, so instead of the usual materials, I chose to use ABS. I had never printed ABS on that printer before and the prints were not sticking great to the PEI buildplate. Instead of trying to wipe down the PEI or mess with the slicer settings in any way, I applied blue painter's tape over the area that the print was going to be on. This resulted in a perfect print. ABS seems to stick pretty well to painter's tape and the tape also reduced the first layer height slightly, squishing it down a bit more.

Silly grin on your face is easy to pictur.😂😂😂 Very cool workarounds! 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼☮️🍀😎

Congrats for leaving the spider at it's place! 😊

Who needs CAD? I just finished printing a project where I had 30-40 changes made to a single model, all done within the slicer. It worked astonishingly well.

As an American. The fact the trash bags say wheely bin on it is crazy funny to me! I always thought that it was just Auzzie slang haha

Hahaha I love the enclosure. I used to run ABS in a trash bag. People told me my printer was going to burn the house down when I did that. I told them I should be so lucky.... but I wasn't! It's still here and still not worth what I paid.

This made my week! Best vid ever 😂

More animated delivery (loved the derelict plastic bag Scarfe - reminded me of the psiberfunk video)! Made me laugh - keep this up, Michael!

LOL any video with a Zoolander reference gets my like.

The fact that Janky is used on 2 hemispheres is dope!

Great video!

Here's one: If you don't want to wait for the bed to cool, take it off and spray isopropyl alcohol on the back. The evaporation cools it pretty fast.

Best tip was leaving the spider there 👌

Very Cool..!!! Thank You for sharing .. Cheers :)

I'm experimenting with inserting acrylic jigs into prints to avoid printing supports. It's worked pretty well for my needs so far; the next step is creating embossed features by using engraved acrylic inserts.

+1 on the G10 bed surface. Also, I use an "EZ reach Bic pocket lighter" for minor stringing.

for joining two filaments i use 80 by 80 mm sheet of 0.5 mm aluminium folded over a 1.6 mm steel rod that i had laying around now its shaped like a U when you look at it from the side stick the filaments inside heat it and once it sticks together slowly twist it inside to form an almost perfectly round joint if it is too thick use a bit of sandpaper to sand it down to size but usually it just works no problem. takes like two minutes tops

I really liked this tips! I would like to know all the existing 3D printing hacks.