Steve McClure: Le Voyage

  Рет қаралды 61,680

teamBMC

teamBMC

Жыл бұрын

In 2017, British climber James Pearson did the first ascent of Le Voyage at Annott crag, near his adopted home in France.
With runout 8b+ climbing above tricky gear, it weighed in at E10 on the British trad scale.
Top British climber, Steve McClure, thought it sounded right up his street and went to have a look.
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Пікірлер: 84
@gillesparez9119
@gillesparez9119 Жыл бұрын
I'm tired today, so I'll just send a hard trad route on my first lead go, without even tying my shoes. Legend
@mosheshtilman856
@mosheshtilman856 Жыл бұрын
Steve: "Im not a bold traditional climber".... lol man youre so humble. Love this one
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
He has one of the boldest trad onsights in history, Nightmayer.
@johannessporer
@johannessporer Жыл бұрын
and then he casually takes the biggest whipper you can imagine in Lexicon ;)
@robiniapseudoacacia
@robiniapseudoacacia Жыл бұрын
Great film. 13.50 my hands a sweatier than Steve's. I can't believe he managed to hang on there. What a beast of climber.
@LoveAndClimbing
@LoveAndClimbing Жыл бұрын
2:20 "Patch Hammond -- Professional Belayer". Me too, Patch, me too
@outdoorvertical
@outdoorvertical 9 ай бұрын
Yeah, whats he ever done in Yosemite?😅
@greigseavill629
@greigseavill629 Жыл бұрын
I went and re watched the video of his fall on lexicon for a laugh after he said "he's not a bold climber"
@daniellambden1842
@daniellambden1842 Жыл бұрын
They should've edited a smash cut of that in
@mikaelwerner1
@mikaelwerner1 Жыл бұрын
What an artist he is, Steve. Absolutely brilliant!
@richedwards4590
@richedwards4590 Жыл бұрын
Beautifully filmed and super impressive
@GreenAlien2023
@GreenAlien2023 Жыл бұрын
What a gem our Steve is
@paulseabrook9338
@paulseabrook9338 Жыл бұрын
“Do routes that inspire you” “it’s not about the number” “trad brings another dimension” not exact quotes from Steve, but all things I have believed for decades that are echoed in this film! Good to have these sentiments supported by the great man. Also impressive survival instincts kicking in on the runout crux section, would have been a whipper!
@connoregan2900
@connoregan2900 Жыл бұрын
The man the myth the legend!
@samhartfieldlewis5247
@samhartfieldlewis5247 Жыл бұрын
He is amazing, great film also captured a lot of the feeling with it ✊
@dougiebicker6458
@dougiebicker6458 Жыл бұрын
quality footage and climbing nice work guys
@danobable
@danobable Жыл бұрын
brilliant film, it's always a pleaseure to watch steve climb :-)
@martinontherox
@martinontherox Жыл бұрын
Legend! Love the open shoes 😅
@theruffiankj4164
@theruffiankj4164 Жыл бұрын
Yeah, what's all that about?
@M0dElite
@M0dElite Жыл бұрын
@@theruffiankj4164 That's his trademark... He said in some interview that he would tie them if he tried to climb something hard :D
@verticalglobe
@verticalglobe Жыл бұрын
They fit so well it makes no difference... other than saving me a minute of tying.. imagine how much time I must have saved in a lifetime! Pity the Blanc not available anymore! Down to last few pairs now!
@martinontherox
@martinontherox Жыл бұрын
@@verticalglobe 😂
@jimbailey9915
@jimbailey9915 Жыл бұрын
Nicely done!
@muttiplay
@muttiplay Жыл бұрын
One of my faves
@fredscratchet1355
@fredscratchet1355 Жыл бұрын
Bloody hell Steve you literally ran up that hard section at the top. I honestly thought you would fall there. Well done that was brilliant.
@verticalglobe
@verticalglobe Жыл бұрын
Not normal for me to answer to posts... but just thought I'd add, I totally didn't run up the top bit, and had a right wobble on the final crack. I'd not worked it much and went up and down a few times before committing but felt I really could have fallen at the final hurdle!
@justinmeighan9683
@justinmeighan9683 Жыл бұрын
Incredible
@PD281161
@PD281161 Жыл бұрын
What a cool climber!
@lukeglaister81
@lukeglaister81 Жыл бұрын
Legend. 🔥
@DrCrimp-sg5pb
@DrCrimp-sg5pb Жыл бұрын
what a legend
@benpearsephotography
@benpearsephotography Жыл бұрын
Hard to fathom Sebastian Berthe recently flashing this climb...
@timiexperience
@timiexperience Жыл бұрын
“Wouldn’t say I’m an expert traditional climber”, has sent E11 😂
@adammacaluso2623
@adammacaluso2623 Жыл бұрын
Where is Steve McClure still getting blancos?
@glynwilliams13266231
@glynwilliams13266231 Жыл бұрын
Amazing stamina and ability
@_bearbell
@_bearbell Жыл бұрын
What was that noise when he fell at @4:17
@BranwellHaworth
@BranwellHaworth Жыл бұрын
Love the fact that Patch Hammond is described as a professional belayer. Good job he's never done anything in Yosemite or anywhere similar.
@verticalglobe
@verticalglobe Жыл бұрын
Ah that was totally tongue in cheek! He was absolutely cranking on the trip and did probably more hard routes than I did!
@BranwellHaworth
@BranwellHaworth Жыл бұрын
@@verticalglobe I know, but thought I would point it out to those less cognisant of the actualite.🤣
@chance6952
@chance6952 Жыл бұрын
Nice send 👌
@dannygrout92
@dannygrout92 Жыл бұрын
The Mac the myth the legend
@aranna_
@aranna_ Жыл бұрын
Can someone help me understand what the british grade means in relation to sport route grades. Is an e10 7a basically an 8b/8b+ normal route? Is that what the grade conversion chart is trying to say? Excellent video of an amazing climb. I hope to climb half as hard at 52...
@itDTube
@itDTube Жыл бұрын
This is a little bit oversimplified, but basically: The E grade refers to the 'severity' of the route, while the '7a' refers to the difficulty of the climbing. So a route could be really severe if there is very little protection, or protection is likely to rip, or there's a big runout (no protection) at the top. This can be the case even on technically easier routes, which is why you can get E4 6bs or something, scary route but easy climbing. Hope that helps (it's oversimplified but hopefully clear).
@aranna_
@aranna_ Жыл бұрын
@@itDTube gotcha! This was incredibly helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to explain
@highlyvenomoustoad
@highlyvenomoustoad Жыл бұрын
Don't mean to muddy the waters here but the E grade does also take into account the difficulty of the route to some extent, no matter how good the gear is you couldn't have a E1 with french 8a climbing, and the inverse is also true, if the climbing us french 6b+ with no gear at all it shouldn't be given an E grade higher than E4. There are E4's with death falls and easy movement and E4's with good pro and harder movement. The E grade is an amalgamation of the difficulty and the hardness of the route, and the british technical grade (7A in this case) is the difficulty of the hardest individual move. Meaning an E6 6C might get a higher french grade than a E7 7A, as the british tech grade doesn't account for how many 6C moves in a row there are. Hope this helps :)
@caedmonswanson2378
@caedmonswanson2378 Жыл бұрын
​@E H So while this route is E10 7a, the French grade (difficulty of climbing) may not be 7a? Like if the route was all easy moves and one 7a move it might be french 6c, while if every move was 7a it could be french7c?
@jordankatz4268
@jordankatz4268 Жыл бұрын
So after reading all these thoughtful and carefully crafted replies, the short answer is "no, nobody can help you because it is fundamentally incomprehensible!"
@chillpurr275
@chillpurr275 Жыл бұрын
wow.
@patrizioburicchi5037
@patrizioburicchi5037 Жыл бұрын
STEMEC...Number one
@SpitalaGaming
@SpitalaGaming Жыл бұрын
4:18 fart incoming
@weedaviec
@weedaviec Жыл бұрын
shame they tried to drown it out with the background music.
@nicolasjeannet1063
@nicolasjeannet1063 Жыл бұрын
Similar technique to Ondra's screaming, just let the wind carry you up I guess
@volodigital8875
@volodigital8875 Жыл бұрын
Apologies but it's not actually a fart. More a gurgling grunt. I was there and have heard it many times in the edit haha
@DhaneKay
@DhaneKay Жыл бұрын
@@volodigital8875 idk. until we get smell verification, its a fart
@masterpropper2485
@masterpropper2485 Жыл бұрын
Speak about sh*tting your pants ...
@codygoldberg7463
@codygoldberg7463 3 ай бұрын
Lol I think I'll give it a lead go today. I needn't lace up my boots even.
@fastoez
@fastoez Жыл бұрын
With boots undone !!!
@Frodoswaggns
@Frodoswaggns Жыл бұрын
Did he just rip a fart at 4:18?
@goGOgetITnow
@goGOgetITnow Жыл бұрын
He tried to stop the body rotating
@brentnathan8069
@brentnathan8069 Жыл бұрын
i was looking for this comment lol...and yes, yes he did
@davidpaulcl
@davidpaulcl Жыл бұрын
You know you’re trying hard when you fart during a move
@pauljepson1249
@pauljepson1249 Жыл бұрын
Classic Steve; "I'm definitely not going to do it...", promptly does it. As soon as he realises he's lying to himself, he's going to be in big trouble!
@theterrorwheel
@theterrorwheel Жыл бұрын
E10 with your shoe untied! 😳
@BrunoAxhausen
@BrunoAxhausen Жыл бұрын
I have to say, seeing a technical monster like Sir Steve scuffle around for purchase like this (13:50 mark) scares the living daylights out of me 😵‍💫 those must be some shitty footholds 🥶
@verticalglobe
@verticalglobe Жыл бұрын
the problem was there were no footholds! I thought I'd just pull up and grab the jug... but when it came to it, what I thought was not quite so easy!
@DREAPADOIR
@DREAPADOIR Жыл бұрын
What’s up with the rope to the side visible from 14:12 onwards? Is Steve clipped into it as a side runner or is there something else going on?
@volodigital8875
@volodigital8875 Жыл бұрын
Hi David here the filmmaker. The rope you can see was for someone else who was trying the route on the same day. It was on the break after the first crux attached the the thread. We tied it off and moved it so it would impact Steve on the route. The lower camera position was compromised somewhat but because that footage was the send go i felt like leaving it in.
@DREAPADOIR
@DREAPADOIR Жыл бұрын
@@volodigital8875 thanks for taking the time to reply! It seems there is a draw connecting that rope to his lead rope? Or is he just clipped into the same piece/thread that’s on that in situ rope? (Great little film by the way!!!!)
@volodigital8875
@volodigital8875 Жыл бұрын
​@@DREAPADOIR totally separate my man. Was just hanging around in space. Glad you enjoyed the film and thank you for the kind words.
@glyndavies8195
@glyndavies8195 8 ай бұрын
Hiya David @@volodigital8875 Great film of a superb climber on a wonderful climb. I also thought the same as Domhnall however. I have studied it several times now and Steve's lead rope is deffo in that draw, and as Steve climbs you can see it tugging the draw and moving the other rope. I assume that it would be one of Steve's pieces of pro anyway, it just happened to have the other climbers ropes running through it. It is clear as day though, that Steve's rope IS running through that draw.
@MrMrEsquire
@MrMrEsquire Жыл бұрын
@13:50 he didn't tie his shoes?!
@perrydoig2872
@perrydoig2872 Жыл бұрын
All I can see is that wide crack on the back wall. So tasty!
@SilBol
@SilBol Жыл бұрын
Steve “triky” mcclure
@sobyeski
@sobyeski Жыл бұрын
Hold up! Patch Hammond, professional belayer! What is this? 😂
@LoveAndClimbing
@LoveAndClimbing Жыл бұрын
0:40 "I wouldn't say I'm a real expert traditional climber. I'm certainly not a bold traditional climber". Bro what. I saw the Nightmayer and Lexicon videos, you're not fooling anyone
@lennartvandenbossche5867
@lennartvandenbossche5867 Жыл бұрын
did he fart at 4:18?
@justinmeighan9683
@justinmeighan9683 Жыл бұрын
Professional Belayer? He is not a professional climber also?
@outdoorvertical
@outdoorvertical 9 ай бұрын
It's British sarcasm 😅
@paulmitchell5349
@paulmitchell5349 Жыл бұрын
Steve is strong.......................................... but time is stronger.
@alexanderbonnet3494
@alexanderbonnet3494 Жыл бұрын
It seams, that in England it is more easy to stay slim… because of the „tasty“ Food…
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