Thanks, this crappy little video seems to have helped a lot of people.

Hi, this one was taking about 30 minutes to fill, but with the new valve fitted it’s about 45 seconds. The water supply is at a pressure of about 5 bar. ( 70 psi). If your pressure is lower then it will take longer. 👍

Hi, it’s supposed to stop the water so you can change the fill valve but if yours is stuck then you’ll need to go further back maybe to the main stop valve. If it’s fed from a loft tank then you can simply push a bung into the tank out let pipe, bungs are available usually in pairs. Or just stuff a rag in the pipe, make sure you can get it out again. If it’s mains fed and you can’t find the main valve then you have a couple of choices, buy a freeze kit and freeze the pipe and fit a new isolator somewhere convenient, (or just change the fill valve while the pipe is frozen ) , this only works if you can stop all water flow through the pipe or it won’t freeze, so it’s no good if the fill valve is constantly running, you’ll never freeze moving water. The other option is to turn on all the taps fed from the mains and then change the fill valve while it’s running, turning on all the taps will reduce the amount of water coming out of the fill valve hose but it’s really not that much anyway even if you left it at full mains flow. The water will on,y flow into the toilet bowl so there’s no panic if it goes a bit wrong and you have to take some extra time, you won’t get flooded. And in a desperate emergency where you have water blowing out all over the place you can crush the pipe down with a hammer or pliers somewhere close by and then you’ll have time to assess the situation. A squashed pipe is easier to fix than a flooded house. P

Hi, it’s a standard tap, clockwise for off so if it’s stuck you’ll have to isolate the water further away, on the incoming mains if that’s the only one accessible. If it’s fed from the tank in the loft then just block up the tank outlet. If you can’t isolate it at all then you can do it live if you’re confident enough, when you unscrew the hose from the float valve the water will just run into the cistern and out to the toilet pan, ( if you’ve removed the flusher) then you can fit the hose onto the new float valve loosely and once it’s positioned just lightly nip or leave it finger tight . the O ring seals it, not the tightness of the hose ring. In a dire emergency you can always squash a pipe with pliars to reduce a full flow leak and give you time to think. Make sure the float doesn’t drag on the cistern or it won’t shut off

@@thpxs0554 thank you 🙏

Hi, it’s not my Toilet, I was doing it for a customer. It was installed when he bought the house. From an engineering point of view it’s got lots of potential to cause problems but in practice they seem to be mostly trouble free. If fitted correctly. There’s a big metal frame fixed to the wall and it all hangs off that. But I’d certainly recommend an additional isolator close by. One that’s easy to get to and to replace as well. I can’t comment on the other 2 makes other than I’ve fitted Grohe shower units and they’ve been completely reliable. Never called back yet

@@thpxs0554 thanks for the reply, reason why I was asking is because a lot of bathroom salesman try there best to promote this brand selling a trouble free German made cistern with metal flush plate, I never got roped in but I can see how they could be quite appealing if non the wiser, they can easily set u back around 350-400 quid. Thanks anyway mate much appreciated

The basket O ring seal won’t leak, ( the one that seals the basket to the socket in the out-pipe. ) it’ll be the flat washer on the bottom of the flush valve. It’s a common failure on all flush valves with that arrangement, I changed that washer on the one in the video but it was still dribbling, slightly. I bought a silicone one but ended up changing the whole flush valve -basket and fill valve. It is worth trying the washer first cos it’s only a 10 minute job and a couple of quid. You could remove the flush valve and turn the washer over, that often works, and you can measure it then in case you have to buy a new one. You’ll have to reach in and scratch off the lime scale on the basket contact ridge with your finger nail.

The O ring that seals the basket to the socket in the out-pipe won’t leak. So you shouldn’t need to disturb the basket at all. It’ll be leaking on the flat washer on the bottom of the flush valve. I did change it on this one but it didn’t fully stop it, so I changed the whole kit, You could try turning your washer seal over, that often fixes them. You have to get the washer off anyway so you may as well measure it in case you need to order one anyway. It’s a really common failure on all those style of flushers. And feel the basket sealing ridge to see if there’s any lime scale on it, that’ll cause a leak.

Thanks 🙏 for your reply ,very prompt too,do you know the part no of just the washer or the whole kit? Thanks 🙏 again….Dave 🤓

www.toiletspares.co.uk/ Go to this site and enter TECE. They list all the parts. Your seal may be A2 or A3. But you have to get the flush valve out to see, and if you go that far you may as well just pop a new one in. I got the fill and flush valves as a set cheaper than just one part on eBay. And they’re the genuine TECE part. They do a very slim line 8cm flush valve so you need to check yours first. One washer is £3:60 but the other is £10, 😱. A new valve is only £24 with new diaphragm in it. Swapping the flush valve start to finish is 10 minutes so long as you don’t end up swapping the basket, which I’d leave alone to start with. You’ll need a thin arm to get in to get the basket out, and id put some soap or similar round the O ring, cos if you break anything down there then you may have to chop off the tiles.

@@thpxs0554 Excuse my naivety,I presume the flush valve is the one that goes in the basket?sounds like a better idea replacing the whole lot, will the new slimline one fit the same?

Hi, thanks for your comment but I can’t translate it.

Hi, this is a repair video, the only maintenance you can do is change the sealing ring in the plunger, which doesn’t often work. If yours is faulty it’s best to change the 2 parts.