5lbs is a lot of extra. If 10 - 15lbs this could break the frame. Recommended 'extra' tension if you do use extra tension before tying off is 10% on squash rackets - so around 2.5lbs. Tennis you will sometimes go up to 20% (about 10lbs) as tennis frames are stronger. The dead feeling you get is likely because you've put too much tension through the string.

Thanks for the comment. Lots of different ways to do but the key is to make sure that the crosses go head to throat and the loops on the outside are small. Glad you liked the video 👍

Hi John, thanks for your comments. The starting clamps are Babolat, expensive at around £50+, but the best out there unless you want to spend £100+ on Yonex/Kimony adjustable starting clamps. The insert that goes between the clamp and the frame is a leather Parnell Pad, which Richard Parnell sent me. They're excellent and a worthwhile purchase. You can get them from Parnell Knott's website. Hope that's helps.

@@stringdoctor6238 Many thanks Jon, thats useful.

Pretty much, yes. If the mains finish at the throat then certainly.

Thanks!

Yes, sound could be a little clearer. It's ok on most videos but could definitely improve on the sound. The short side is the side which has the shortest length of string use and is typically only for main strings on that side (and sometimes a few crosses). The other length of string does the mains on the other side plus the majority of the crosses. I generally measure 5 and a little bit full arm spans of string to be able to string a racket of this size. I'm 6ft 1 with long arms, so you may need to adjust. I measure with racket head lengths for the short side, plus a little extra and the rest of the string will be long enough to compete the rest. The reason for tying off at the throat first is due to having both clamps available for security. Always best to have two clamps in use in case one slips and to keep best tension. To tie off at the head first, you would need to use one of the clamps. Plus, it's more efficient to tie off at the throat first as you are already there. Hope that helps, Jon

​@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for the reply. One more question if you don't mind- Even after stringing your way, on a machine similar to your's (Wilson) the racket has come out narrower in width and taller by about 3mm compared to a factory strung racket. Is the factory using a different machine that might be clamping the racket from inside the frame widthwise, and does such a machine exist? To resolve the reduction in width, after tensioning the main strings, I am thinking of relaxing the top/bottom clamps, then relaxing the width clamp so the frame expands widthwise. Then on tensioning the cross strings the frame should revert to unstrung shape. This is how we used to string in the pre machine era 30-35 years back! I realize this may put the frame under uneven stress. Kindly advise if there is a better way, or should we just accept a minor change in shape? Also a tip- for Carboflex type rackets that have a finishing knot at the top for cross, there will be some release of tension in the last string when we finish the knot. This leads to a dead spot at the top, where a lot of shots are played from, especially on tight balls. This is also apparent in factory strung rackets. To resolve this, I increase the tension in the last string by about 10-15lbs (depending on how stiff or flexible a string I'm using). So the tension in the top string then becomes similar to the rest of the strings.

@@amitojsingh7899 Hi, the rackets at factories are very poor, stringing is done for speed only and often only every 2 or 3 strings may be tensioned. Don't adjust the posts when stringing rackets, aside from minor adjustments if the frame rattles in the posts too much. Rackets will always change shape when stringing. In terms of the last tie off. There is actually a reason for not adding additional tension, this is to slightly soften the impact point for wall shots and also helps to reduce breakages off mishits. Also, the head is generally a lot weaker than the throat area, so it's not always a good idea to add extra tension, as I would normally do with tennis rackets. Badminton employs the same tactics, with the top cross strings being reduced in tension rather than increased. I hope you don't increase tension by 10-15lbs. Do you mean %?

​@@stringdoctor6238is there any way of clamping the width from the inside?

Ok, noted. Thanks again.

Hey there. Easiest way to explain. I'm a about 6 Ft 1 with a long arm span. I measure just over 5 full arm spans of string plus a little extra as the total length needed. For the short side, I measure 7.25 full head lengths of string. Then the rest is for the long side. Hope that helps 👍

Thanks Eli, I so I use 5.5 full wingspans/ arm spans in total - about 9M of string for a Carbo and measure 8.5 racket lengths in the short side, then the rest does the long side. That’s for this technique. 👍

@@stringdoctor6238 You surely mean stringbed lengths, not racket lengths, right? Your method with the three last crosses strung with the short side would requrire at most 5 full racket lengths on the short side.

Hi Neil, Good questions. So the Ashaway strings are a little trickier to get through grommets that are slightly covered as the strings are soft - so aren’t easily forced through. Two things. Sharpen the end of the string. Then use a fine awl and careful push the loop covering her grommet away so you have room to push the string through. Just be careful not to scratch the string with the awl.

Ah ok, that’s exactly how I ended up managing to get them through! Good to know I want doing something wrong! 👍🏼 Thanks for the quick reply!

You can also put some cut off string in between the loops to then pull down the loop to ease the string through. Very common in badminton stringing. But you shouldn’t really need if doing the above.

Ah yeah, can see how that would work. Especially by using some thinner grade strings I guess. Thanks for tip 👌🏼

Hi Peter, you can use 2 pieces if you like but the around the world 1 piece version is generally the best as it ensures totally accurate tension across the mains. If you do a 2 piece, just make sure you start the crosses always from the head in squash and tennis. It's only badminton where you would start the crosses from the throat and this is due to the head shape of a badminton racket.

Hi there, for the short side I measure how many mains on that side plus a bit extra for tie off. For ATW patterns I do the same, plus an extra 1.5 main lengths.

@@stringdoctor6238 thank you

Hi, make sure the tip of the string is pointed (clip it if you need). You can either use a finger nail, as I did here, or a fine awl to gentle move the outer loop down a bit to creat a bit more space.

@@stringdoctor6238 Sure I will try that. Thanks a ton. your quick response is so impressive. ( better than most of the paid services :) )

Hi there, you need to use an Around The World method. You can either use the Universal method or the UKRSA (as in video). Measure the short side a little longer than usual (about 8 head lengths) then you string all but the last mains on each side, use a starting clamp on the short side at the top too after you've strung the 6th main on the short side, then after you've strung the 6th main on the long side, start stringing the crosses from the second cross down. Next time you get a Carbo, just follow it step by step. Hope it helps.

Done! Thank you. Very helpful. Can’t wait to use the racquet tonight.

@@zorro22207 have fun!

Hi David, the Vapor's a pretty simple one. I had a couple in to string not long ago for Rob Owen (Paul Coll's coach). Next time I get one, will do a video 👍

@@stringdoctor6238 I have strung many of them but you are the expert so I’d like to see how you do it. Thanks so much!

No problem. Will keep an eye out for one to string and post 👍

Ashaway Powerkill 110 SL is also the identical frame, so you could use that as a demo for both. You are right, they are easy to string, with the crosses coming down top to bottom. Simples!

Hi Niels, directly from Wilson via a contact of mine in the UK. Direct is always best if you can.

When you say ratio and you referring to the amount of string used on either side? If so then I normally measure around 5.5 armspans of string/about 9+ metres and use 8 head lengths of string on the short side.

thanks a lot