thanks

to control the dc moteur in outdoor i use this guy, only for continuous rotation www.ebay.fr/itm/255548064979 the motor is like this one but at 45 rpm www.servocity.com/precision-spur-gear-motors/ the coupling part is smth like that : www.gotronic.fr/art-coupleur-d-axes-5-5-mm-cl1m55-26414.htm or www.gotronic.fr/art-machoire-d-accouplement-10-mm-cl12-10-33140.htm indoor to be accurate i use an arduino and a l298n , you can make a run stop shoot run www.robotshop.com/en/dc-motor-driver-module.html the motor is a 6 rpm i think the best way is to use a step motor but i don't have this skill if you have monney you can directly go here : www.mjkzz.com/?fbclid=IwAR3lqizdCU0vBGX-9XwLg280NyOZ-QVg036oylfdcll9gjf8jsM_YjYptIg

Hi Allan, perhaps you could do an interview with Stephane on your channel !? 😉

Merci l'ami !

with the R6 i use an high speed card in raw, the buffer/RAM can shoot continuously at 20 img/sec during 6 or 7 seconds (numeric shutter) . as i use no flash in outdoor with the diy motorized rail the parameters are 2,8 to be as faster as possible (about 1/200 or 1/320) . i use helicon focus. but i guess the jpg is the best way.

It à simple do it yourself motor drive by a basic variations or à L298N with arduino . the rails used is are from Nisi and Proxxon. The tripod à cullman one.

Thanks. Helicon focus. .. there is a lot of discussion between helicon and zerene stacker . Helicon is faster .

Thanks so much. One more thing…. in your video you show some 3D computer generated devices which you seem to use on controlling camera position and maybe focus. What are these and how can someone get them? Do you have a video on them?

if you talk about the footage at 14sec, i chosse an APC-c sensor, add 2 leds spots , and close a little bit the aperture, increased the ISO, and try to reach 1/50sec. all the little trick to have a bigger deep of fied in video. i don't know how canon manage the sensor in full HD video, but the deep of filed is not sod bad. for a 20mpx picture it is another story.

the issue is the aperture, at F11 most of lenses create diffraction, and the image become less and less sharp. it get worst at F14 F22 etc.. another way could be use a macro lense with a shorter focal combine with a small sensor. a micro four third mcro lense with a Olympus OMD is a good combo.

@@stephanesimoens51 appreciate the response! I use the sony 90mm 2.8 macro and have also the raynox 250 extension.. you are right though i just hope to avoid complex post processing :D and for some reason always have issues with focus stacking (i do it handheld not with a rail)

The idea is to kept the same speed abd try to be at 1/200 at least. 1/500 is better. During 1/500 sec the mouvement is so short tgat there is almost no difference with à fix position. But if you move too fast the deep of field is too narrow to cover the displacement

Nisi rail modified with a DIY DC motor 12v

Yes. The contactors of the extender are cover by a tape. So the dslr does not detect the électronic and works well. I add a short extender tube between the lens and the extender to avoid clash. I tried with x2 and x1.4 on apsc and it was close to x20. But the top of the laowa is very close to the subject.

Shoot in burst mode with the Electronic shutter to avoid vibration. While shooting the mouvement Nevers stop. It is a Do it yourself design.

Sigma x2 and à short 12mm tube

I stack in burst mode with living animals. You can the fly moving on the video. Check my Last video on this channel.

Old sigma x2

With a short 12mm tube to avoid clash between lens and extender

peed regulator MFA 919D2P CC motoréducteur HPCB 3046 1/1000 POLOLU gear setup here for 3d printing, fit only with the first release of the NISI rail : grabcad.com/library/gears-for-nisi-rail-first-model-of-the-rail-1 i own only the 25mm

right ! F11 is better, i always try several aperture if i can.

@@stephanesimoens51 From what I read, at 5X, diffraction starts even at f4

All dead subjects were found already dead in autum and even in the begining of winter for the ant. More respect for living animal is important for me

3 or 4 godox led 64 with tracing parper for a better light diffusion. but a 5w light can work too, until you add something to diffuse the light. hte idea is also to not making too mush heat.

@@stephanesimoens51 oh i think these will be perfect. i need good video lights for macro stacking, which can be powered externally but also because i dont want to use flashes inside my room. Thanks

it is a DIY NISI modified rail to control the dc moteur in outdoor i use this guy, only for continuous rotation www.ebay.fr/itm/255548064979 the motor is like this one but at 45 rpm www.servocity.com/precision-spur-gear-motors/ the coupling part is smth like that : www.gotronic.fr/art-coupleur-d-axes-5-5-mm-cl1m55-26414.htm or www.gotronic.fr/art-machoire-d-accouplement-10-mm-cl12-10-33140.htm or www.servocity.com/6mm-to-0-250-flexible-clamping-shaft-coupler/ indoor to be accurate i use an arduino and a l298n , you can make a run stop shoot run www.robotshop.com/en/dc-motor-driver-module.html the motor is a 6 rpm i think the best way is to use a step motor but i don't have this skill if you have monney you can directly go here : www.mjkzz.com/?fbclid=IwAR3lqizdCU0vBGX-9XwLg280NyOZ-QVg036oylfdcll9gjf8jsM_YjYptIg

It is a DIY modified NISI rail, here my last version design: speed regulator MFA 919D2P CC motoreductor HPCB 3046 1/1000 POLOLU gear setup here for 3d printing, fit only with the first release of the NISI rail : grabcad.com/library/gears-for-nisi-rail-first-model-of-the-rail-1

the XT3 electronic shutter is about 11 images/sec it could works, but i have no idea how many time it can do it (buffer ) . you may also try in 4k video.

It is a NISI rail coupling with a motoreductor with a 3d printing design (DIY)

it is a cc brushed motor controller like a 919D2PR in a diy box

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/idx1i8yi09ingY0.html&ab_channel=MaximilianWeinzierl use video 8k