Thanks for the kind words Jonathan. I try my best with every single rider I meet :)

Glad you enjoyed it and remember the process works for any rider and their motorcycle.

Thank you!, Hwy 190 from Porterville through Springville to Quaking Aspen

Agreed. This bike setup guide should be part of the MSF course. Very comprehensive.

Thank you for your supportive comments.

Our pleasure!

I sincerely appreciate you leveraging the content and increasing your knowledge base!

Thanks so much!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you Rob. Glad you enjoyed the video and hope it empowers you to hav a go yourself!

Start with ergo's then fork bottom out followed by rebound damping in that order :)

Thanks! 👍

Hope you have enjoyed the series so far and part 3 will be coming out soon.

Same to you!

Glad you enjoyed it!! Thank for taking the time to comment.

Happy holidays!

DO IT!!!!

Same to you!

@@catalystreactionsbw cheers Dave.

Thanks for making time to learn new skills via our videos and become more aware of what needs to be set up for you and your motorcycle! I hope with that understanding, you can pay it forward via conversation.

Thank you - glad it makes sense :)

Glad you enjoyed the video!

Thank you for watching - glad we are creating content you enjoy!

Glad it helped!

Same to you!

Thank you very much and I appreciate you taking the time to share your kind words!

Thank you :) Part 2 will be mid to late January!

@@catalystreactionsbw nice. Looking forward to it 😁👍

Same to you!

Thank you very much!

Thank you! Cheers!

Happy holidays!

Fantastic review and explaination of how to set-up this bike. Can´t wait to watch the 2nd part

Will be at the end of January latest. Holidays are getting in the way!

@@catalystreactionsbw Greeting from Spain, happy Holidays

@@dongxu2059 Same to you and all th best for 2021!

Thank you - I don't try to emulate traditional reviews at I feel they miss the mark - it is all about the owner and what they need to make the bike work well for them.

My pleasure and thank you for watching! Hope this inspires you to make changes and if you do, please share the results.

I can do that Dave (said the red eye). As you wish here a few results =) Actually you inspired me years ago, with the freemium knowledge around of yours, to be willing to adjust my bikes. And therefore to critically question settings, whether they are more or less comfortable, safe or unsafe. To ergonomics: Adjusting break- and clutchlever on the handlebars felt good, and I did error on the side of beeing a little too low (without ever having to chase the break/always by instinct beeing able to immediatly find the breaklever) rather too high. Rule was, arms and wrist in a anatomical natural elongation (line). It felt fine, however after around 2 hours of riding there was a slight stinging in the fingertip of the Middle Finger, whilst pulling the break. Obviously the ring-ligament got stressed a little from the pull in an unfavourable angle. Raising the breaklever about 2mm fixed that, from there on no matter how long the ride there was never a sting again. Wrist was fine as well, since it forms the straight line as mentioned above. Coming from you, I did also drop the clutchlever for the foot a little more than I was used to. There was never a comfortissue to begin with, however once I started to become a unity with my bike, getting used to powerdelivery, there was the rare occasion of a false neutral. The gearbox needs a firm "foot" that is clear, but under high acceleration-load it was more prone to false neutrals. The issue however was me, my foot with lack of force in that situation. Dropping the foot-clutch-lever 2 teeth, to get it a bit lower, got me the right leverage for those situations. It was a riders issue, but the change in position made it easier for me to proper shift gears. On Supension: Upgraded the rear shock with an aftermarket, bcz A) OEM had only 3 clicks of adjustment, B) more importantly I had zero free sag if the rider Sag was correct. Spring too soft. Aftermarket shock fixed it. More important though, front fork has 3 clicks total, and was as per manual set to 3 clicks out. Preload was right in the middle. This combination yielded me a Pogostick-front. And actually when going downhill on enginebreaking at lets say 40km/h, I would take my hands of the handlebar and the front would oscillate a little. Just a few millimeter, but enough to be a visible pre-stage of a tankslapper. Highly Unstable and Usafe! This would be amplified on tougher roads or higher speeds for sure. Fork oil change to thicker oil and adding preload got me to into the "down up standstill"-bounce area. However on a very hot summerday it still wants to go for a second bounce. I will have to try one step thicker oil, going to 20W and see how it works. Ohh yeah, I added a bunch of preload, bcz I was almost bottoming the front on twisties, and for sure reached mechanical bottom when practicing emergency breaking to a standstill. The bike mentioned here is a Kawasaki ZZR 600, built '97, bought from a dealer as used first hand bike, which was decomissioned for almost 10years in the garage of the previous owner. I wanted to add a bike, that can handle twisties and long motorcycle travels, and is in good basic shape. No electronic shenanigans and to improve riding upon. Take care!

@@faithpath8283 Excellent work and thank you very much for sharing all of your experiences for everyone to learn from, no matter what they ride! A tip of the hat to you!

It sure is!

Please have a go and use the 6 steps video to get you started: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZtFzetJ1z9rSfWg.html

Any time!

Glad you enjoyed the video! Love the Ross II's far more than the III's as they are very difficult to dial in right with hot pressures due to too many soft compounds.

mine would sporadically stop by itself instead- same with the unable to fix

Which model? The Euro4 generation? They have a new sprag cluch so it's very strange that you would have that trouble. If you have an older MV Agusta which has the older version of the sprag clutch then you could've just retrofitted that with the new sprag clutch and the problem would've gone away. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rMCRarhq0b_IiWg.html Also, with basically all Italian bikes you always have to make sure your battery is one of the good enough quality ones like Yuasa. If you don't buy the right kind of battery no matter what you do you'll always have problems. Also, did you try squeezing the clutch lever just a slight bit when it didn't start? The few times my pre-Euro4 MV didn't want to start all I had to do was squeeze the clutch lever a slight bit and it started (I'm not saying that will help in all cases).

@@pistonburner6448 yes Euro 4 at MV Augusta Thailand they were aware of the sprag clutch they took months to try to fix the bike and they gave it to me back without being fixed it was still hard to start. So disappointed they couldn’t fix it cause the engine was great!

@@Miguelito0oO None of what you're saying makes any sense. "They were aware of the sprag clutch"??? "Couldn't fix it"?? What does that mean?? If they're aware of it as of course they were then they'd change it into a new one and it would be fixed! First of all the starting problems of MV Agustas are always fixed and always have been, it just possibly came back after some time in the past with the old design which is not used anymore and can be replaced on all bikes. How old was your bike? What battery was in it? And so you say that "hard to start"...so it actually did start but you just complain about it not firing up on the first try every time, that's your issue? Let me guess: you heard the stories about the starting problems and then you went to the mechanic, who said the bike works fine as far as they can see... And if "they couldn't fix the bike" (unbelievable claim by you...) then how come you were able to sell it? Did you sell it for a fraction of the market price of a fully functioning bike?

@@pistonburner6448 right, it didn’t make sense to me that MV Agusta Thailand couldn’t fix my bike that’s why my desperation!

Happy holidays!

Glad you think so!

Thank you!!

It will be interesting to see how much fork and shock travel you use to show if it is indeed stiff or actually too soft.

Hey Man it's not Gixxer : P Yup Dave definitely talks to the Camera like he's your best mate teaching you something. Been servicing my own bike since I started riding over 30 years and he never fails to teach me something new

I appreciate you taking the time to watch and get some information you can use to make your bike handle better rather than adapt to it.

Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching. Whats content will you use to improve the handling of your motorcycle?

@@catalystreactionsbw Waiting for my custom shock to arrive, after install and first set-up by suspension techs, will look closely at the tire wear after each ride to see what the wear pattern looks like, then make adjustments to the set-up if needed. Will start to record settings for each bike, riding condition, riding style.

Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it.

He used the kick stand to leverage it off the ground.

@@Unryl2 I tried the same way but still, it’s a F4. May be heavier

Thanks!

Comments are appropriate and welcome. Lines on a road I did not know very well at all as it was my first hour or so on it were far less than ideal.

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for taking it like that. I was thinking that I probably should have kept my thoughts to myself.

Fair comment - we will see what MV does for 2021.

Noted and thanks for sharing.

@@catalystreactionsbw I used to have 2017 f3 800 rc and rear brake disappear because of very close proximity of MC to the main heat source

Noted and we will be investigating different mounts, most probably for the tank. That will give you the horizon perspective. What do you pilot?

@@catalystreactionsbw Dave, do a helmet mount. If you have a GoPro, angle the camera up 45 degrees so that when you're leaned over the camera lens is level. Settings:+ 4k, 23 frames per second, set ISO to min and max 100 and get a set of ND filters for proper motion blur - otherwise, GoPros never provide a proper sense of speed. Result should look something like this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNuAhaZmuJjNloE.html

@@catalystreactionsbw i fly since 20years in the skydiving industry, Short Skyvans :) thanks for thinking about the suggestion !

The steering stem to belly button is one measurement, so that is reach. Spine is base of the neck to sacrum, then factor in arm length from top of the shoulder joint to end of the wrist on the hand side. From that you can draw your triangle. The angle from the spine and arms at the peak of the triangle is the important number for sport bikes. I am 170cm tall. My arm length is 22inches/56cm, my spine is 22 cm and the reach on my F3 800 is 22cm so my arm/spine angle is 60 degrees. 50 degrees is the most comfortable for me anatomically.

@@catalystreactionsbw are you sure your spine is only 22cm? Or is it inches?

@@claudiolorenzoraia1671 Ooppssss..... All measurements are inches so 56cm. I corrected the reply. Thanks!

For me the rear sets were well positioned and gave me excellent balance on transitions biomechanically. So, no comment on changing them (30" inseam fyi)

I was so lucky to find a company that made a glove perfect for my hand - Insurrection. They went out of business so now I am looking for new gloves. Y2W-R and Racer Gloves (High Racer Glove) have the closest fit with excellent feel for me.

@@catalystreactionsbw it blows my mind how poorly stitched/made the fingertips are of even expensive riding gloves. They have a significant ridge where the two layers were stitched together. Right where you would need to point to press a bottom with your finger tips etc. crazy to me. I’ll check the ones you mentioned, thank you

@@catalystreactionsbw Those are the model names or the company names

Just go softer on fork and shock compression by 1/2 a turn. I wouldn't change rebound.

@@catalystreactionsbw thank you very much Dave, thats kind of you to help out

Thank you Bobby. Rubber balls should be unique and 2-3mm in diameter. If this is what you have - all is well.

Then you have found that lower pressures with your very soft carcass tyres does not work. Higher pressures give you more structure and feedback. Next time out try some Dunlop Q3+ as it would appear you definitely like a hard carcass tyre.

For your bike, how old is the fork and shock oil?