@currentlyrockhounding will those blades fit on a tile saw

​@Batfan83 I say probably it depends on shafts size one I got has 5/8" arbor hole and came with a 1/2" bushing for 1/2 shafts size.

@@rtact777 that's sounds cool

Thank you very much!

I think Jared morally steers away from Clickbaity crap, which defines him as the diamond in the rough

@@jamesgford8051 That's what makes the joke funny

That's something I would like to see!

I worked at a coffee roaster ages ago and we would take the same bean and repackage them for other brands and the price points were all over the place for the same things.

Well said Lisa!

I've personally seen something like that working at coffee roasters. The same bean, into many different packages.

I'm glad that you have been saving money on the blades! I wouldn't say they are all junk but some are clearly better than others.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

It's hard to beat this price point.

I'm glad you liked it!

Thank you. When you say a larger saw do you mean like an oil slab saw?

You are correct price in not necessarily connected to value. These shipped from here in America but perhaps the supply chain off them will get turned on and off like everything else.

Thank you very much!

Thank you so much! :) I'm glad you found it to be helpful!

Thank you! I agree, when it comes to blades, price and brand are not necessarily an indicator of quality.

At some point here in the future I will having some videos go up about grinding wheels.

Its the right price.

They are a good value!

@CurrentlyRockhounding They sure are, but I haven't spent the big dollars on a "name brand " blades, so I can't compare. Luckily, I have you to test these against them. Thanks as always, Jared!

These are not rated for the speed that your tile saw runs at unfortunately.

Generally I would say no since a thicker blade means that it needs to remove more material but it also kinda depends on if its a trim saw or oil saw.

I have cut up some slabs of picture jasper with it.

I worked at a coffee roaster once and we did tons of repackaging where the same beans went into different branded bags.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding yup!! Gotta question everything.

Hahaha I'm happy having a stack of blades to play with!

@@CurrentlyRockhounding I have the 10 high tech slab saw and the blades they came with not happy with. I’ll probably get some MK blades since I have had success with them on other saws. I also don’t like the thin blade on a saw that size to free hand slabs to much room to bend the blade.

@@socalrockhound There's defiantly more rigid option on the market. At some point here I would like make a buying guide for blades.

I'm glad you like them. For what they are I think its worth it.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding Yes! I did jam one during a cut and it bent it. Oh well, $4 !

There's not much of a visual difference between the cheap stuff and the not cheap stuff new out of the box but its more how they hold up over time and if they have any obvious issues.

There's many things to factor in when looking at cutting rocks isn't there. The kerf thickness is a big factor when buying expensive materials.

I never got them for the 10"

@@CurrentlyRockhounding for the price I’m definitely gonna give them a shot!

I think they are well worth $4

I wish I had a 20" saw to test those blades with! :)

I use them with water.

Good question but I really don't think the heat from cutting is enough to do much here.

It depends on your blade you're using, I normally run at max of what the blade I'm using is rated for.

Yes, if you can afford it always go with a trim saw vs a tile saw.

@Currently Rockhounding thank you! 😊 I enjoy your videos, got into rockhounding a few months ago, and I really want to cut all my rocks..

I feel like we haven't even had a spring yet, its just rain forever it feels like.

Depending on the saws in question a tile saw RPM can range from 3600-8000RPM vs. most trim saws will max out at 3600 rpm. Cutting slower is always the best option for cutting rocks.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding thanks JR for the helpful answer. Also, your analysis of diamond in notched edge blades is insightful. the service you provide is appreciated.

i need to correct my typo of JR, i meant CR, or just Jared.

They can, but they are not rated for the speed that I tile saw spins at.

I do speed up the cutting and polishing in many of my videos to keep the video length down. The 1" arbor is a tough one, that does really limit the opinion available.

Jarod has a tile saw????..whaaatttt????

@@manisteerocks7092 No. What he's using in his video is a HiTech trim saw.

@@spetkovsek57 I know..it's an inside joke between Jarod and i....Jarod understands the joke..I'm sure!..lol..but thanks anyway bud.

Just an ideal but could not you use a Steel Step Bit to enlarge the arbor hole to fit?

I have.

I wish they did but unfortunately they just work on trim saws.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding what blades do recommend for tile saw. I just got my first saw. Novice here. Love all the information on your channel.

Max RPM!

I make me own power tools. So when you say max, do you have an rpm number to go with that? Currently spinning same blade in video at 1342 rpm. Another quick question for you, as I'm brand new to rock cutting. Is lubricant needed with these blades? I've noticed that dimond dremel bits (round) work much better dry. Thanks

It depends on what you're going to be cutting.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding mostly small quartz and agate

If it showed up with a crack in the basin that you put water in you should contact the company for a replacement as it sounds like it was damaged in shipping if that's the case.

Will check it for cracks. Thanks for quick reply!

It's a spray guard.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding I need that for my saw. Did you make it or where did you get it?

@@DotComMomm I just made it myself.

It is not rated for a tilesaw.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding I see is it due to speed im guessing

What?

I really think you missed the whole point here . At no point in this video did I say "This is the best blade ever" or "go buy this its as good as ever other blade". I presented my findings, the cost per cut on these is really low. Once you're cuts are costing you pennies the point is that you throw the blade away and grab another, did you not get that from the video? As for your MK blade which I also have and for the trim saw one costs about $60 on Kingslynorth right now for you to buy that and get down to a per cost cut of about $0.05 which I'm already at with my cheap blade you would need to get about 1200 cuts out of it and of course that would mean taking it off many times and peening it. The reality is the MK is a poor value compared to many of the other options on the market. Another factor that is hard to replicate is the material being cut by one person is not the same as what another person will be cutting. I have presented my findings on many different aspects of lapidary blades here on this channel and I let other people make up their minds on what they see but which avoid are logical fascicles such as an appeal to history. Stating that because you have used something for ____ amount of time means its good means isn't much of a point of reference.

@@CurrentlyRockhounding First, I apologize if my comment was harsh. I do thoroughly enjoy your channel and the research you put into it for your viewers. It isn't a personal attack nor does it mean that I don't look forward to what you do next in your videos. Whether I agree or not, thank you for doing the video. Quality use to be a thing here in America in the past and that has went by the wayside for many years now.

It depends on your blade, you do not want to exceed the rated rpm of whatever blade you're using.