In addition, the can is closer to a hood suppression system than a extinguisher. Not sure if I trust what ATK says in the future. It doesn’t seem like they have really done the homework.

Here is a question for you it says somewhere that the stovetop fire stop is gravity fed so do you think its likey to work after its experation date ?

@@Fredengle I would say everything has a lifespan. Typically with items that perform a life-safety function, there are scheduled inspections, testing, and maintenance that are assigned. For example, some fire sprinkler heads require testing or replacement at 20 or 50 years. The laboratory failure rate is about 10 percent and 20 percent after another 10 years. Returning to the fire stop device, the 7-year lifespan is most likely related to a percentage failure that was not acceptable. So the easy answer is it may work or it may not.

Thank you so much for the technical insight!

Very helpful comment. I've copied this into my notes for future reference.

An ABC extinguisher is fine to use on a cooking oil fire. Just don't be right on top of it (which is where you don't want to be anyway) and sweep it over the base of the fire. As an added bonus it will extinguish anything else that has been ignited. The K class may not do that.

@@johnfilangeri8568for cooking oil fires the only extinguisher we can provide under British Standards is a wet chemical, for the reasons I have detailed. Recommending that people risk splashing burning oil around with a powder extinguisher is irresponsible. Yes it might have some positive effect but it’s not the right tool for the job and has inherent risks.

Interesting. Where would one go to have a fire extinguisher recharged/maintained?

​@@veraxis9961 There are fire suppression companies all over the place that do all of the certifications and inspections for businesses and they all do service work. So if you've ever noticed tags hanging from the fire extinguishers at Walmart (the ones that aren't for sale), there are people that come inspect them and fill those tags out. So, genuinely without trying to sound sarcastic, just Google it. Specifically, go to Google maps and search for Fire Equipment. In my generally small geographic area there are 3 companies within no greater than a 20 minute drive. Alternatively, those tags I mentioned above will always have a company name on them if you just want to snoop around the in-store fire extinguishers the next time you're out and about. An alternate to that alternate would be to stop by your local FD with a box of donuts and ask them where they get their stuff serviced. If you go where the FD goes, you're probably going to get the "good" stuff.

These are for home use. You are buying them by the case obviously not for home use. They never recommended the larger models because they aren't suited for home kitchen use. They are too powerful, and make too much of a mess. They make everything go flying the pressure is so high which is bad because you don't want a pan full of grease on fire to go flying. Also the spread and amount of fire retardant goes everywhere and makes a huge mess.

@@WaterspoutsOfTheDeep Obviously, you made an incorrect assumption. I've bought them buy the case exclusively for home use (as I recall, there are 4 in a case, so I admit I added some dramatic effect there). I suspect I have over a dozen extinguishers around. As I said originally, I should probably make my own video on this topic and explain myself in more detail and I've added doing so to my radar. You also don't seem to understand that the model I recommended is at the _bottom_ of the Pro line. By dimension, it's about 1/3-1/2 larger than what she's using. I'm not talking about an extinguisher that takes a team of people to lift. It's about the size of the Amerex on the end of the table that she didn't recommend (for reasons unknown). As far as the mess you're worried about, it's best to worry about that after your house isn't burning down. The single best firefighting tool you can have in a kitchen is a good sturdy lid and that would have extinguished every fire demonstrated in this video (and for obvious reasons I understand why they didn't just light a full kitchen on fire for testing). If things have gotten beyond what a lid is going to fix, you're in bigger trouble than cleaning up dry agent and blowing grease around as your house is already on fire. I'm not sure what video you watched, but Lisa made a mess you can see from space with the smaller one she used. Making my own assumption, I'm going to guess you've never used a dry chemical extinguisher before if you think any of them are _easy_ to clean up. Anyhow... I stand by everything I said. The model I recommended is a radically better choice. If I had recommended something like my Amerex 423 (which is a _legit_ commercial extinguisher, holds 20lbs of dry agent, and probably weighs over 50lbs) all of your observations would be accurate, but that's not what I said. FWIW, my Amerex is 5 feet away from the Kidde Pro 210 that is in my kitchen right now, and it's 5 feet away from another Kidde Pro 210 on my bench (which, hilariously and only by happenstance at the moment is right next to the Kidde she _did_ recommend, but it's one that needs recalled), and between them is a smaller First Alert that is strapped to the roll bar in my Jeep... then there's another in the next garage bay in my Mustang... then there's another 210 near the front of the garage... and on it goes. So, you do you, but I'm comfortable with my plan and equipment... obviously.

How do you dispose of old fire extinguishers and do you think Kidde is a better brand than First Alert or Amerex? Thanks.

Same

But for all of you reading this that don't know - DO NOT FORGET TO TURN OFF THE HEAT AND LEAVE THE LID ON UNTIL THE PAN HAS COMPLETELY COOLED! You had a fire. That meal is trash. You don't need to check to see if it went out 2 seconds after you put the lid on. LET IT BE!

@@peggs82 ABSOLUTLEY!!

The reality is an old fashioned metal ABC extinguisher is likely always going to be the best. Get a refillable one and it pays for itself over time.

@@UncleLawrence91 Better than the one recommended here?

@@hwk9468 Their Pro line is refillable. Look at the 210.

Sounds like a fun way to spend $20 -- test one outside!

It's pretty straight forward... Pull the pin that locks the handle, be within ~6-8 feet of the fire (your extinguisher will tell you in its instructions how far it will shoot), aim at the base of the fire, and pull the trigger until it's empty. If you've got a situation bad enough that a lid isn't going to cut it, just dump the entire extinguisher to be safe. It also goes without saying that this is _strongly_ a 2 is 1, 1 is none kind of situation. So, you should have more than one extinguisher on hand so there's no need to fret over just dumping the first one even if it's more than you think you need. It's going to make a mess that can be seen from space regardless, so make it count. Also, your local FD would be delighted to train you on this topic. Stop in and introduce yourself sometime and ask them when you can come back for training. If they're bored that day, there's a 99% chance you'll be getting trained on the spot, especially if you show up with your own extinguishers and some donuts.

Just remember PASS - pull, aim, squeeze, sweep

20 YEARS OLD?! GET A NEW ONE NOW!

I agree but you would need a hell of a flame to light that wick. The heat falls off real quick the further you get from the heat. I guess it’s good as a backup if you leave it in attended.

Karl Dias yeah love to see it tested again under real conditions. You’re right it would take a lot of flame and no one wants to see flames that big in their kitchen. But if it puts that big flame out that’s all that matters.

I’m not sure she “missed” anything, this was a review of which extinguisher works best. Perhaps you are able to check if your extinguisher is still usable in an emergency? Email the company?

Gauge in the green should mean you're good to go. On a professional inspection basis, at least in my state, they have to be verified (meaning someone looks at the gauge and makes sure the handles aren't rusted fast or something) every 2 years. If you're worried about it, and yours is a serviceable model, take it into a fire suppression company and have it inspected. I'm not sure if this is what you're saying, but if you only have 1 fire extinguisher you're kinda doing it wrong already in my opinion. Go order a Kidde Pro 210 (which is a radically superior extinguisher to their winner) or another comparable model from another quality manufacturer (Amerex being another excellent choice) and add to your empire. If one doesn't work, the other probably will. Stack 'em up like cord wood until you're comfortable with your inventory. I probably have about a dozen of them scattered around...

@@TheBrokenLife my advise is that all extinguishers should be checked annually. This is especially important with dry powder extinguishers, as the powder tends to compact and lessen effectiveness. I hope this info is of help to you, .

@@paullee5573 You make a good point. This is the primary reason that if you can at all manage to do so you should mount your extinguishers sideways. When you flip it up to use it, the powder will break up. Giving them a shake every now and then is a good idea.

what you are missing here is that kidde and or amerex extinguisher have to be professionally maintained the ruosh purple k can be self maintained with out being required to be a certified technician as a former distributor of both abc and purple k products I no longer sell products my recommendation would for a home kitchen would be the ruosh purple k unit I think that is likey to be the best model for a home kitchen Note this video explains why an extinguisher should be maintained by the occupant of the home and not be professionally maintained that is the nice thing about the rusoh unit you dont need a certification to refill it !!! this video explains why an extinguisher shoud not be professionally refilled kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ar90edd42siyoI0.html

I think its debated the effectiveness of co2 on grease fires I would say if you use it and find it to be effective and can afford to maintain such a thing good luck but it may not be the most effective and I think it could be argued it may splash a fire as close ranage but I think its also argued you wont have to clean it up as I said if you can get it to work why not I would rather take my chances with a dry chem as I think it is likely that the model I have is going to work when I need it to it actually a co2 powered dry chemical but certainly I am sure co2 is going to be better than water by the way are you in Britain or Europe here in The US Co2 fire extinguishers are not commonly used in home because they are over 100. US Dollars for a 5 lbs unit which is usually the smallest size plus also dry chemicals are rated to put out larger fires

Hi Rober actaully for protection of a comerical fat fryer you need an extinguisher rated class k abc is likely to cause major property damage the better thing for a home kitchne would be baking soda type or purple k purple k is more effective than baking soda and is less likely to cause major property damage purple k or baking soda type are also more likely to be effective in a fire in hot grease than an abc type because either one is an alkaline and should generate a soap in contact with hot grease abc is an acid which could possibly make lt less effective on a grease fire

Sadly, most consumer fire extinguishers now are not refillable and are one time use, with a limited shelf life.

@@acmeopinionfactory8018 one time use crap, how is that an improvement.?

@@grannysweet It's an improvement in profit for the manufacturer, as they can use cheaper materials, components, and assembly methods, and will see additional purchases when their product is used or goes out of date.

As I said in an independent comment, I suggest you ignore their winner and step up to the bottom end of the Kidde Pro series for a variety of reasons; including that they're rechargeable. The Pro 210 is my choice and it's about $45. And I don't know if most fire stations can/will recharge them, but it's about $10-15 to have a commercial extinguisher shop do it.

as former fire equipment distributor my recomendation would be you reserarch ruosh fire extinguishers they can be self maintaind no certification by the occupant there is actaully a whole video that points out have a reusable fire extinguisher professionally maintained could present a safety hazard the video is here : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ar90edd42siyoI0.html

Amazon is sold out of them now (they were $17 yesterday) and the prices you're seeing are from 3rd party resellers simply operating on Amazon. FWIW, I'd suggest you go with the Kidde Pro 210 model anyhow and it's $45, regular price. It's a radically better extinguisher.

the brand of fire extingusiher is called Kidde they do see to have a lot of recalles even the smoke alarm I bought was recalled which they did not seem to want to send me a replacement until I left a negative review on social media that included a report titled notice of child endangerment!

ABC extinguishers, such as the one they selected, are also good for electrical fires (that's the C part of the ABC). If you're asking about an electric range fire, it's the stuff in the pan that is generally on fire and not the stove itself. In all reality every fire she demonstrated would have been best extinguished by a nice sturdy lid and perhaps a pound of salt. But... it's not like they can actually burn down the studio to make a video, so, I get it.

I agree, but it was extremely easy to find with a quick search - the brkelectronics website was my second result and explained them in great detail

I think the reason is because that extinguisher costs over 300.00 and most people have in there home a dry chemical type! also they dont sell wet chemical in hardware store common units sold in hardware stores are abc or bc type !!!

@@Fredengle cool, thanks for the info

You get what you pay for. Right next to the $15 fire extinguisher on the same shelf at Walmart is the $45, radically superior, Kidde Pro model. It's not as if they _only_ offered plastic handle models. Like everything else, they were trying to cater to the entire market. Some people value their fire safety preparedness at $15, so they offered a product to those people. That said, I'm not wild about the plastic handles either, so I bought better extinguishers... but I do have a few bottom end units that looks like I need to be having replaced.

Wrong and bad information.

I think that’s the difference between the “ kitchen” b and c type and the regular abc type. They make the kitchen type so it does not make a huge yellow mess that melts and sticks to everything. I think it’s a different chemical from the general purpose type. At least that’s what I remember from my training. I just have the huge fire extinguisher with the hose from Costco.

Commercial fire hoods use a wet chemical agent (which I'm guessing isn't much fun to clean up either). The amount of inert gas, and the system to deliver it, you'd need to smother a fire in a large commercial kitchen would cost more than the rest of the entire restaurant. You'd also run a pretty high risk of killing some diners if it ever went off because it would have to displace the oxygen from the entire building to be effective. Blowing a few cubic feet of inert gas on a fire isn't going to do anything once the oxygen comes rushing back in. This is also exactly the logic used on boats where the entire compartments are, more or less, sealed and they have specific fire suppression portals which are intended to be used with inert gas extinguishers. The goal is to fill the _entire_ compartment to extinguish the fire. As another case in point, I used to work in a data center that was equipped with a Halon suppression system (which is very roughly akin to what you're thinking of). The building was about the size of 4 football fields and had 10-12 foot ceilings on 2 levels. They told us we had 30 seconds to get out if the Halon ever went off or we'd all suffocate. So in a building that huge, we only had 30 seconds... You'd never get all of the diners neatly exiting a busy restaurant in that period of time. Some folks can't even get up out of a chair in 30 seconds. Granted, they could have been exaggerating that claim, but I wouldn't want to find out. You guys worried about cleaning up dry chemical agent don't seem to be nearly as concerned about cleaning up a total lose of your house. You have insurance for exactly both reasons. If you have a fire that is so bad that a lid or a pound of table salt isn't going to cut it, you're likely going to have plenty of smoke and fire damage already. If you're shooting extinguishers at fires that are contained in pans, or generally in the area of a conventionally sized range, instead of using lids and table salt to put them out, you're doing it wrong.

actually in correct I have gone in to commerical kitchen they have automatic baking soda fire extinguisher but it has been found that for fat fryers the best chemical is an agent called wet chemical it is available in an extinguisher for class k fires but the best extinguisher for a home grease fire is likely to be purplek I no longer sell products but my current recommedation would be you research the rusoh purple k unit purple k is more effective than baking soda for grease fires I rarely if ever have seen a restaurnt kitchen that contained a co2 system probably because co2 may not be very effective on a large grease fire

not actaully correct I think the new code requires restuarant systems contain wet chemical agent I think its debated that co2 will have much effectiveness on a fat fryer

Well, they're basically Shills, soooo,....

Yeah the fact that they had such a poor design in the first place makes me question the rest of the unit.

The fire products industry is very highly regulated and controlled so I find it hard to believe this. As for not reading the instructions, that is a moronic thing not to do.

davenz000 if it’s so regulated why did they have to recall thousand of extinguishers

@@Mrcaffinebean - Beeeecuz the regulations didn't prohibited plastic handles, buttons or actuators. The recall involves more than 100 models going back to the early 1970s, including models sold with many RVs and big trucks.

That's mostly not gas; it's dry chemical agent. If you've never set off an extinguisher before, they all tend to put things in the air you'd prefer not to be breathing and you're going to be cleaning up for awhile as well as likely replacing some cookware as the chemical reaction tends to ruin things. There _are_ extinguishers that use inert gas to starve fires of oxygen, but they're generally intended for enclosed areas (like a boat's engine compartment) that you can literally fill with the gas. The good news is that once your house isn't burning down, you'll have plenty of opportunities to clean up and air out. If it burns down, well, you have an entirely different list of new opportunities...

There is no CO2 gas. Stay in your lane and don't spread fake news.

@@TheBrokenLife co2 is gas the extinguisher in the video the americas test kitchen video are powder I would not recommend gas type agents as I think they work under strange condtions and unless you are 100% certain of what you are doing I think it could cause a nasty suprise as an example if its not dangerous why do they tell you only use in certain amount of cubic feet per extinguisher ? and as for co2 might not be that dangerous but I dont know if it would be effective

this just proves you dont know much about fire extinguishers as co2 evaporates very quickly these units in the video tested are powder but you still would not want to inhale or ingest large quantities of it some of them can contain talcum powder

Yeeeesssssss....It seems very homoerotic...and it just doesn’t seem to fit with these videos at all hahaha

Yes! My thought every time they tack that ending on: hasn't ATK heard of #metoo?

I see the invisible sarc-mark you put there! Good one!

i use a larger towel to smother grease fires.

have you not see the video what happens when you put water on a grease fire such an application or similar would only be recommended to use by trained firefighters !

@@Fredengle That was the joke, Captain Obvious,...Whooosh

It doesn't matter if it's the best, she still wouldn't read the instructions.

What do you think is the best brand for home fire extinguishers? Thanks.

If white ones illegal why is amazon selling them?

I dont know that illegal is the word I would used but it I think is a correct statement to say the UL does not list aerosol fire extinguishers and I think technically requirements that require an extinguisher require you to have a ul list unit what I would say is they usaually say on the label this unit is not a replacement for a code required fire extinguisher

I dont know it its actaully illegal and as for why is amazon selling them well if I look hard enough online I could problem get someone to sell me a product that was highly illegal it I knew where to search for it it just a matter of knowing how to find the item people will probably sell any thing even if its unsafe did you know that ionization alarm how been found conclusively unable to pass the test for visble smoke and have caused approximately 500,000 deaths and and injuries and they have been selling them for over 30 years ? and they dont include a warning on the label that it may be dangerous in certain fire condtions a current member of the Ul committee actually did a full scale test show the ionization alarm failure in a smoldering fire scenario a similar test was shown on gma shown here : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y6iqq8ifqK3MeKc.html but actually a court case found that the combination alarm was not a safer alternative to ion or photo its here : caselaw.findlaw.com/al-supreme-court/1746520.html

Don't argue with you? Your message begs for credibility. Let's back up and start afresh with, "To which law do you refer, in which legal jurisdiction?"