No sir, no overheating Corvette here. I just like watching your videos . :0)

you just confirmed my theory on the front lip. I have the lip with the outboard openings and I instantly noticed an overheating issue at highway speeds. I have a new one on the way that is like yours. thanks for the info!

Forgive me if I’ve already pointed this issue out before, but I noticed you don’t have a gasket on the nose where the leading edge of the hood comes down to meet the nose. Your air filter is directly below that part and wash water will run through the hood joint and soak your aftermarket air filter. The factory filter has a plastic box around it to prevent that. To test it, lay a paper towel over the air filter, close the hood and spray water onto the hood, letting it run down the front and then check the paper towel. My Z06 already had the gasket, so I guess you would buy it on line.

No cooling issues here but the tips were useful! C5 coupe owner here (Spain). Thanks for the vid !

Yeah, I have the tune turning both fans on at a lower temp. Also have the ZR1 style front splitter with no temp. issues. Great maintenance tip video!

Hi there Mark; Matt here. Good vid with points of interest to check. I had to look this up but the C5 factory coolant temp when the fans turn on is 226° fahrenheit. When I had a cat-back exhaust and cold air intake installed the shop owner who also uses HP Tuners, reprogrammed the cooling fans to kick on earlier. A few weeks later, installed was a BTR stage 1 cam kit with titanium retainers, dual valve springs, Johnson lifters, Kooks header, catted x and mid pipe. Along with a new GM radiator and 160° thermostat, the temps stay around 185° to 205°. This past winter being in the 30's to 40's, the car temps took awhile to get "up there" and the car was an absolute "gas hog". Was getting about 12 mpg; I usually get around 17. So yes, the car does Not run as efficient with low coolant temps in the 160'ish range. I think that I might be better off next winter installing a 185° thermostat and putting the 160° in my tool box.

I spent 100 on getting it tuned to lower the temps at idle. At speed it’s always been 180-190, but stop and go traffic would go up to 230 which is right around where the second fan kicks on. I had the fan speed changed to 200 so now the car doesn’t ever go below or above 180-200. Best 100 I’ve spent on the car ever. No more heat soak and slow engine when parking up for a couple minutes at stores/meets.

I just cleaned my radiator of debris today, I actually removed it and blasted it with a mild de-greaser, high hose pressure water (45-50 psi), and then blasted it out with 120psi air and it came clean. I then blasted out the condenser (must do) and noticed a 15* difference on a 100* day. From 235* to 220* (right in the middle). I live in southern Ca and anyone who lives in a similar climate should take note that air blasting the radiator should be done every 6 months. Go from the inside out and then from outside in. cover any open ports, throttle bodies, coolant ports, etc, and brace for a dust and grass storm. There was literally dead grass and small pebbles flying out of my radiator, presumably from backing down my dirt driveway to my carport. Then clean your engine bay. You shouldn't have to remove your radiator, but this is my second C5 and the first time doing it to this car - I wanted to have a visual on what was in there xD. Also I 3d printed an adapter to fit a cheap tire brush to a 3ft pole to brush the radiators from this point on.

I can say, I have the front lip with the side openings and I dont have cooling issues. I know lots of people do...and a lot of them have taken off the air dam. Still, I would guarantee that this lip is better for higher HP/blown cars

Such a great channel. Best C5 content out there

Just did AC work on my C% and it cooling good!

Can u do a video about the fans not working??

PLEASEEEE MAKE A VIDEO ON HOW TO FIX THE FANSSSSS

I’m surprised is haven’t seen a video of you talking about the functional fender ducts by ELECTRON SPORT. They go for $333 which seems very expensive for what they are, but I’m not a professional, maybe they’re worth the price. Would you do this upgrade? What are your thoughts on them?

I was gratified that the presentation started with the design temperature specifications, because the ignition event , and all the contributing factors , even down to the swirl of air into the cylinder, are optimized for the design temps. there is so much mis information out there with people holding on to obsolete concepts from non computerized engines, or just yahoos who buy more radiator than the design calls for, and strongly advocate their misunderstanding as the best solution. efficiency is power, and we all know modern cars are designed to be as fuel efficient as possible. so going outside of the OEM system design specifications will probably return an ignorant result.

I just replaced my rad, with a stock unit. Drive it about 10 miles and all was fine. Went to a car show last weekend and on the way back in light stop and go traffice the guage climed fast and as soon I we moved it went right back to normal. Did the same thing that the next light. I turned on the A/C and the fan does come on and the temp drops, however I cannot see if the left side fan is working. Any thoughts?

Love your channel!!

What if there's a squeeking chirp noise when you turn the A/C on?

Mine overheats only at low speeds like you said. How should I go about diagnosing and fixing that? I also think I don’t have an air dam so I have to put one in LOL

Whats with the open hose on the catch can, Markus.........🤪

Hey Mark, thanks for the video. Ive got a question: i have an 04 Z, 30kmiles. when i bought it it had a small upper oil pan gasket leak (confirmed by local dealer). the guy i bought it from and he just kept an eye on it but never fixed it. It didn't really leak on the ground, maybe a drop a month. When I bought it I took it to a local shop to replace the harmonic balancer and had them do oil pan gaskets at the same time. Still leaked. Fast forward a year later and they replace it TWO more times under warranty. Today its still leaking or seaping from the front and sides of the upper oil pan (as far as i can tell). What would you do? Doesn't really leak on the ground, maybe a drop here and there, but it seaps and runs down the oil pan and spits on the exhaust here and there, so you smell it. Im just not sure if i should just ignore it, or bite the bullet and take it somewhere else...don't know of a good local vette shop either, obviously the last one isn't any good...

If I sit in traffic it’s gets up to 225-230 definitely not great and I keep the ac off especially when it’s hot out.

mine runs about 196 its done that since i got it 4 years ago even after having the thermostat replaced when it failed