Came for climbing, stayed for diet tips!

@@rrrents Lol! Follow at your own peril

Yeah! You're 100% spot on, it would be great to have stats like a video game and it would be obvious to see that we have a low rating on X skill to work on, and when ever you are at the lowest part of a range on anything that usually where you can get the easiest gains

I'm the same way, I can hang on 20mm but my hands tremble. I used to be much stronger but have put off finger training for about 3 years, I would love to get back into it but with the starts I mentioned in this video

I feel like finger strength is my main weakness. I cannot hold myself on 20mm edge at all. Max 1-2 seconds if I am fully warmed up and have a perfect conditions. Although I only climb at around v4 (sometimes v5 on slab). Flexibility is definitely in the list there as well, however it is improving quite a lot. I started deliberately working on it after just a month of climbing and now it is not as bad as it used to be.

As long as you put in the time there is always results, thats the best way to keep on going

Thats really good though. I can hold my weight on a 20mm edge for about 4 sec with my right hand and only 1-2 sec with my left. Despite that im still climbing v7-v8 so i think u definitely got the finger strenght

@@henrikblomqvist720 of course it always depends on the boulder but I'm with you! Most people can do more than they think

Thanks man! One of the reasons I learned all this stuff is by watching your highlight videos 🤣

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing haha

Lol yeah, used to happen all the time 🤣

Yeah I've done that on specific moves or if I'm projecting, the thing about that is not over doing it. Also being able to focus on optimal technique always and not just when you are tired is a good skill to develop, I still think I'm a long way from being there but keep on trying

Great to see you are spot on for your grade! That means that with just some dedicated movement practice you can easily break into new grades, keep it up man 😁

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing in my opinion consistency is key in climbing progression. but not "normal consistency" like climbing only v4. Rather progressivly overload consistency (in different aspects e.g. technique, power, (finger) strength) will make you break that plateau over time. unfortunately every time i felt like breaking into the v8&v9 range a injury happend but good news the v6-v7 range felt easier every time.

@@roman4692 Yeah I know what you mean my friend, I feel the same way. The good thing, as you say, is there's many ways to view progress. As long as something is moving forward you are always improving!

If you don't mind me asking how much do you weigh?

@@BiggieChungulus if you asking me: ~189cm/88kg

Gracias Joaco! Voy a seguir dandole para adelante 😁

I see, if that's the case try to go for slow finger gains and focus a lot in driving tension through the feet, it will make your body lighter on your fingers. If you combine this (don't get injured) you should see improvement but I understand the frustration. I personally don't spend that much time on crimps and would be scared for my fingers if that's the only thing that would be available. Also, who knows but maybe ask the staff if that can make more slopper problems, every gym should have a balance

Thanks man! Trying my best, in a few weeks there's gonna be a string of incredible ones!

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I’m looking forward to it!

Hey man, I'm sorry to hear about your shoulder, I have a cousin and a friend that have that issue chronically and is horrible. Personally I've never had a dislocation just a few tweaks when doing cynamic moves or just a feeling of "if I keep on doing this move I'll get injured" That feeling has completly dissapeared with my warm up and a few mobility things that opened up the range in order to get the shoulders nice and strong. I'm not an expert in the subject but atleast in my case I would focus first on having a good mobility range. If its not good that means weakness in certain positions which can lead to injury. Then strengthen it, and dont forget about scapulla too! They work a lot together, so scap pull ups, face pulls and maybe getting better at lock offs. Just in case you havent seen it (since I do most of thewse in my warm up) here's the link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9F1ebpprpO1oGw.html Hope this has helped!

Thanks man! I'll keep on trying my best 😁

Hola Alex! Tu español es muy bueno, si no me decias que tu nivel era B1 asumia que vivias en españa ya que la forma de hablar es un poco distinta a argentina. Yo estaba en la misma posicion que vos y creo que este cambio de mentalidad me ayudo mucho a desbloquear una nueva forma de ver el mundo. Que bueno que a vos tambien te haya resultado positivo, un abrazo desde Tokyo!

Thanks for the tip my friend, noted for the next one!

Thanks! I'll keep them coming 😁

I think you just hit the mark with your comment, once you change from short term to long term I think it allows you to improve a lot more. You can clearly see that small gains can accumulate and instead of just focusing on hitting the next project you can address other stuff that in the long run will make you a much better climber

Thank you! I will keep on trying hard to make more 😁

Damn, you're pretty strong my friend. I think there's a lot of people that naturally tend to go to a style maybe yours is pretty fingery and thats how you got so strong. What drills do you do?

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing I primarily moonboard (2016 set). That’s probably the source of my finger strength gains. Within the past 2 years I’ve pretty much just been doing limit bouldering sessions 3 days a week. I used to do lots of flagging drills and lock-off or even campus work. Recently I’ve been finding a lacking of my endurance so I started doing 4x4’s on mid-grade boulders (for me that’s around V5).

Nice! Sounds like you're in the groove and know what to aim for. I would love to try the moon board, I've never been on it yet but I'm always scared for my finger 😂

Thanks for your comment! Anything you would add to it?

Yeah! Shoulders are incredible, I feel that they are the "Upper Body Hips". If you dont feel solid on them its hard to do much. Congrats on the V5! I do think that especially on lower grades people are way stronger than what what they need to be but its kind of bound to be that way since they have the least exposure to good technique. But all comes in time if you go at it!

Thanks!!

Hi! It's in the description, it's a Google doc you can print or modify so you can see your weakness and biases

Thanks Benji! The next one will be the warm up one, just like you wanted

Glad you enjoyed it, trying my best to make it fun 😁

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing really good information in an entertaining format! during my session today i thought about multiple topics from the vid

Thanks Collin, I'll keep them coming!

I get where you're coming from, I think outdoor styles depend a lot where you live. Where I live now is mainly really small edges which is what I find the hardest, but in other outdoor spots there's sloppers or pockets, or just bif moves of of sharper but bigger holds. I would love to sometime get the chance to travel and get to know more outdoor stuff since to be honest I havent done much

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing Good point. I've only climbed in the northeast and one place on the west coast so I don't have too much experience. In the Northeast, It's almost entirely small crimps while out west (Berkeley, CA), it was bigger holds with bad feet and awkward moves

Yeah for sure there are common elements to all styles of climbing but in a sport as varied as climbing its really hard to just say you only need to have finger strength. I would love to tour the world and learn a ton of different styles, maybe in the future 🙏

Lol! Thats for your comment ☺

Hey BiggieChungulus 🤣 It does! If you look at the Y axis it says Percentage Bodyweight

​@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingthats a ratio, it doesnt factor in the difference between a 100lbs person pulling 200lbs vs a 200lbs person pulling 250lbs.

@@BiggieChungulus isn't it based off of the % weight you can pull? Wouldn't that make it take weight into account? I'm not great at maths so don't take my word for that last part, it just how I understand it. If it's wrong please correct me and explain so I learn 😁

​​​@@CrispyCrimpsClimbingwell it could explain why some people climb v11 at ~130% vs some people at ~220%. It would be safe to assume bigger people have less relative strength. Don't get me wrong, I believe climbing is a democraric sport and that every body type (that is reasonably low in bodyfat) is viable. I also agree most climbers especially in the v6-v8 range are stronger than their grade. I just believe the relative vs absolute strength distinction is a missing nuance here.

Ohh now I see what you mean, yeah thats true. I think like you climbing is one of the "fairest" sports, since many different skills are used maybe someone who isnt as strong might be way more flexible and get the top. Having said that it's true that the only way i think climbing does favor a certain body type is usually on the weight aspect. But most people arent climbing for a living and thair true rival is their past self so I dont think its as important as just improving. Nice point I didnt even stop to think about, thanks for bringing it up 😁

Thank you! I've learned from this and the newest video has better audio quality I think, I a bit weak of hearing so I dont notice as much

The good thing about being strong is that any improvement you do in technique is 10 fold, the bad thing is that you can default to that style of climbing very easily so its hard to control yourself and improve. Technique will give you more endurance since every individual move takes less out of you and that will compound session over session 😁

You are a Gem, my friend! With a little bit of consistent training you can keep your movement abilities improving while gaining strength at a solid pace

@@CrispyCrimpsClimbing thanks! Only problem is my body weight is 185# of muscle, so it may take some harder finger strength training to work on that % body weight number. At 100% my fingers need to take the weight of many other people 125%. I feel like the weight factor isn’t spoke about much in these conversations, yet it has real influence on outcome

@@ryanfitzalan8634 Take it slow, your journey is yours alone. As long as you keep on improving a bit on strength and keep climbing like you have I don't see why you couldn't break into V6 soon! Lower grades especially need much less finger strength than most people think

Been climbing 6 months and 80kg can do 1 chin up :D

Everything will come with time! Before I started climbing I was into calisthenics, when I started that I couldnt even do 1 chin up and after going ham I managed to improve quite a bit. Tackel your weaknesses and you will always grow 💪

Ohh I see what you mean, in my head and from reading your answer it portraits what I say in the video exactly as is. Everyone sees the iceberg but doesn't notice or understand what's under the surface. It's ice, we all know it but not the shape / details. Hard climbing is the same way, just get to the top, stick to the fundamentals, learn every detail and leave no piece of climbing (including the things you hate or are bad at) with out practice. There is no big secret, it's about 2 things, being able to notice every little detail and executing on it

I wouldnt take it like the only truth but I do think there is clearly some correlation. Also if you think about it the people that this can benefit the most is beginners since they get strong fast but their movement skills lag behind. Keep on crushing it man!