The intermittent sound problem source is most likely the contact pins on the cartridge sled. These pins do accumulate oxidation which must be cleaned off periodically. The sled is removed by pushing the thumblift backward. Make sure to support the cart as you do this. Pull the sled gently downward, then away from the arm. The arm rest clip should be in the locked position. A bit of contact cleaner, a little emery paper, and done. Reverse procedure to install cartridge/sled assembly. I have two of these, and have learned the hard way.

It doesn't matter that the counterbalance has no numerical markings. You use it for zero balance only anyhow. So you rotate it until your arm is perfectly level. The tracking force is set with the dial inside of the gimbal. THAT's where the numbers are.

Yes that is for the stacking spindle aw3. But the shaft has come undone. The motor is ac not dc. The sound issue comes usually from the muting switch. The counterbalance haș no markings because on the arm there is also a spring with numerical markings, that sets the vtf. The single multi is for the height when listening to multiple records(changer mode). Any questions ask me as I restore them

The floating spring assembly that you were showing at around the 10:24 point is actually so you can tighten the spring down from the top to lock the turntable assembly down for shipping or transporting. That is what the screws on top were for. Then you would unscrew them to allow full movement when it was installed wherever you placed it.

Your issue is probably not a “short”. If one channel is intermittently cutting out, you likely have an intermittent “open circuit”. It’s just the opposite of a short. If you find a bare spot in the signal path which is touching metal with a path to ground, that would be an example of a “short to ground”. The term ”short” should not be used as a catch all term for electrical problems.

have you tried removing the cartridge and clean the contacts on the headshell the finger lift rotates to remove the cartridge mount

These turntables shipped new with the platter detached. The platter weighs like 5 pounds and if it is shipped with the platter attached, the damage is very hard to repair. I have 2 1219s with damaged main supports, but I came up with a fix, by tapping the bridge, and driving a threaded pin into the bridge to lock main shaft into the proper position. These can be restored to near perfect condition. The other weak spot is the oxidation of the connector in the headshell, It's easily fixed with 2000 grit sandpaper folded into a matchstick to polish the contacts.

I had a 1219 as a kid with Shure cart, Dynaco tuner, Dynaco SCA-80 integrated amp and Dynaco A25 + A35 speakers. It was THE sh*t back in the day. The 1219 was (is) a record changer. It originally came with one spindle for using it as a manual/semiauto/auto TT and a tall spindle that held a stack of ~6 records above the platter, making it a changer. You're missing that tall changer spindle. Find that tall changer spindle and you'll find that you have a full-featured record changer in the 1219. Love this video, thanks!

Looks like you don't have much experience with these. You don't EVER pull back the start lever after you push it to start ! I had 17 Dual turntables at one point including a couple with direct drive. I still have about 15 Dual turntables and may be interested in selling some of them.

It is the mutting switch! Because the small rods that ride on the yellow plastic gear get oxidized and corroded. Clean them very well and all will be in working order

One of the reasons that the motor is so big is that the motors on idler wheel turntables run off the full 120 volt AC line as opposed as the low voltage DC motors that most belt drive turntables use. Record changer needed to have a motor that had a lot of torque to drive the charger mechanism.

The center nub reveals a added center spindle. This peticular model came with a record stackerspinle to accommodates users desirering that function. That larger spindle was usually lost , due to a focus on record care.

You DO know that there are such things as Owner's Manuals and Service Manuals for these things, I hope. Reading them can be most helpful, and when that doesn't quite do the trick, there are Other People Who Know Enough and will advise you. Anyone who jumps into working on ANY turntable without having a clue deserves to lose the battle.

Old audiophile here, I only have DUAL tables. I have CS 5000, 701 and 1257. I might suggest the cables on the cartridge. They are extremely fine, and often phase out one channel. Especially with a Grado upgrade. I have Shure V5's on all my tables, and had the same problem. All Dual tables, (higher end) came with Shure. Never Grado. Grado's were recommended to me on mine back in the late 70's, but I kept with the Shure cart.

If you should get a Dual for fixing up another time, there's loads of video'es here on YT that shows step by step how to clean, lubricate, and repair them (links below). It's actually really easy. I bet the missing channel can be fixed in a minute either by cleaning the contact points in the headshell, or the mute-switch inside. That also takes care of hum, if that occurs (at least on models with 4 pole motors). ONE THING WORTH NOTICING; Not all Dual's use the same motor as the one in the 1219, which is a 4 poled motor that can be recognised by it's round shape. Others use a two pole motor which has a square shape. The two pole motor creates a massive electromagnetic field around it, which actually magnetizes the whole plinth, and this results in hum you can't get rid off (Try removing the powerplug from the wallsocket, and notice the hum will get even worse). If you get one of those, you might as well just give up from the start, 'cause no matter what you try, it wont help. I had a 1225 which I ended up changing the tonearm on, bypassing the mute-switch, build in a pre-amp, I even connected it to a groundspear in the garden, and all other sorts of crazy stuff, just to try to make it stop humming somehow (before I realized what the problem was). It didn't help one bit. My advise to all who reads this; Stay away from models with two pole motors. Go for 4 poled, but then you also have one of the most awesome turntables out there. 1019 - 1219 - 1229 have 4 pole motors (and are divibe turntables - I'm being serious here; If God is into vinyl, you'll find one of these in his set up). Perhaps more models have 4 poled, but these three have for sure. Here's just a few examples of videoes on how to fix and clean Duals (as mentioned there's many more). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qc97laqJuJ3NmoE.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qcCJqcVmt8vQhaM.html (Notice; Two poled). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n7SHq9F43qjRZmQ.html Stay awesome mate.

The contacts at the back of the cartridge sled can become tarnished and a quick rub with a pencil will fix it up

The stereo systems of the 60s that my father had came with the Dual turntable. They were all great pieces of work.

We’re going to be testing continuity (13:50) not resistance. Just keeping you on your toes.

I had bought a Dual 1214 brand new in around 1974 and it came with a Shure M75 cartridge. A few years later I bought a 510 belt drive, it came with a Shure M91-ED.

Beautiful machine. It`s like watching a masterpiece at the Louvre museum

Dual turntable repair isn’t for everyone. Start and stop are done by the machine only. If you try to flip the start and stop lever playing with it, you will break it! And this is the reason that a seized up Dual that needs a complete overhaul is $500 on flea bay.

Agree with icpizzaboy below. Bought my 1219 new in '71 (I was a junior in high school.) Most of my problems throughout the years (missing signal, hum from a bad ground) came from the fragile contacts in the headshell. Easy to access to clean but be very carefull. I use an emery board & very little pressure on all contacts. Sometimes just removing the headshell then reinstalling will do the trick. This line of turntables (the 10xx & 12xx) is very reliable with periodic maintaince & will last forever. Glad to see you showing this TT, I don't think much of the current crop of new tables, they just won't hold up IMHO. B/TW Dual's in my area (upstate NY) came with either Sure or Pickering cartridges. Currently running an M91E myself.

I had a 1209 bought new at a PX on Okinawa in the late 60's. Your's appears to be a GI imported version too. The cabinet was a very common type. The cabinet makers had luan plywood inserts specific for individual turntables. It's interesting now that people think that idler wheel turntables are good. At the time, they were considered old tech that suffered from rumble vs direct drive and belt drive turntables.

I just rebuilt a Dual 1015 recently. I had an issue with audio on mine. My issue was the muting switch Dual have installed that works to mute the cartridge during certain parts of the automatic operation. I can't remember if the switch shorted the channels or disconnected them, but that switch was definitely a sticking point with me. Pity the idlers are getting so hard to get now (writing this in 2022). Basic probably isn't a term I would use for these though. The mechanics are quite sophisticated to allow all the automation without electronics. These days the Dual name is owned by a holding company, like a lot of the old names that were worth something are, so the name could be thrown onto almost anything now.

There's probably a special cartridge to headshell adapter, just like the Dual 1019. There are connection points in those. You can test from the underside of the headshell to the underside RCA jack with ohm meter (just like a cable). You can also check the actual phono cartridge coils to verify left and right is "working" with an ohm meter (Left to left ground; right to right ground). The wires connected to the rca jacks are THIN! Deoxit cleaner is good for contact points.

Yeah! Great memories. My first approach to real Hi-Fi (circa 1977) was a DUAL turntable. I upggraded soon to a more refined model of the same brand. My carts were Shure and Ortophon. But in the early 80's I moved forever to digital, and I stay on it happy and without regrets for misunderstood nostalgia.

These mounts to allow the top plate to move freely are the savety screws on the top of the turntable it self and you unscrew them lift them a little and screw them hand tight so the Sub Chassi wont move while packaging. Also someone replaced the Original Tonarm Cables from the german DIN (Deutsche Industrie Norm) to RCA what in my opinion isn´t a good thing but ok. im Also hapy with my two Dual CS 714 and 731 Q´s wich are what i heard the best from Dual. Good luck with yours. :D Greetings from Germany

At 10:30... Those are table lockdown screws, not for isolation.

"I fought the Dual and the---Dual won..." 🤠. I bought a 1229 for $5 at an estate sale that is in the same cabinet/base.

The muting circuit consists of a switch near the RCA connectors that may have been oxidized and the cause of one channel cutting out. Just playing it a few times may have cleared up the connection but some contact cleaner would have most likely fixed it.

I have a 1019 and like you state......it's like a fine clock. Love it!

Every vintage German made turntable is elite engineering and a work of art

This turntable is kind of similar to the Garrard Synchro-Lab 95B that my dad purchased in about 1968. I currently have the table and am slowly attempting to restore it to a fully functional state. It's got a similar suspension system on the plinth and is a fully automatic idler drive machine.

For those of you with an excellent old Dual, except for having a crapped-out head shell sled (which are annoyingly difficult to repair), please note there are a few decent aftermarket sleds available. I got one from Best Audio (no affiliation), and while expensive for what it is, it saved my 1218 from being useless to being an excellent music maker.

I have a Dual 1224 turntable myself and it works fantastic. I also bought an Audio Technica LP60X which is a good modern beginners turntable but the Dual is my main turntable. The old vintage Duals are like a clock and they just do not make turntables like the old Duals.

That thing in spindle is for the drop christmas tree spindle. On tone arm, dial wait to zero. Then use the back weight adjust tone arm too float with out hitting platter, dial the adjuster on tone arm to set exact weight that you want, the piece has number.Then clean and tighten carrier wires. I have 1229, 1216,1215s,1225,1226, 1218. I know adjustments. Beautiful sound. Other thing with grado try not to have near heavy magnet items, like speakers, as could hang-up cartridge to give hum.

That motor is an AC motor. Dual pretty much took a fan motor and slapped inside a turntable. Torque should not be an issue with this turntable.

Back in the day, away at college (early - mid 70s) wished for a system - and the DUAL, Thorens, or some of the Pioneer's turntables some of the guys had.

Those RCA cables are not the originals as they were a thin grey hard-wired (captive) cable. Along with this, it looks like someone has installed RCA jacks instead of the captive cable. This is no bad thing as it allows the cable to be changed quickly.

It is not a Super High End pice of kit as stated. It is a workhorse. Plus : Idlerwheel`s create quite a bit of rumble. It is entrylevel as it was back in the day, Used to have one fitted with a shure cartridge. Liked it a lot.....

Not like it matters a lot but this was made between 1970-72 not 60s. 60s models were 1009 for example, this is kinda last and best hi end idler drive designs that hit the market, soon belt drive and direct drive took a lead in hi end for lower rumble abd better torque.

I also have a 1019.

You checked the neutral but not the signal wire . The the head s hell leads need cleaning

So...you fought the Dual and the Dual won.....

You mentioned in your video that the counterbalance has no numerical numbers. It's not supposed to. It's only used to balance the tonearm to zero or floating neither up or down. At this point you simply dial in the gram force that the cartridge/ needle recommends.

The 1229 is the best turntable I ever used. I especially loved that it muted during the automatic cycle! Peace.

Record ology your utube videos are awesome my friend 😅😅😊

It's an old video, but if you happen to still have this table, check the mute relay. This may be the cause of the dead channel. Cheers.

I've had a Dual CS 5000, great turntable and the best looking one of the Dual catalogue imo. Switched to an Akai 307 (also a great tt) and now rocking a Technics SL 1210 MK2 👌

Really interesting video....A lot of effort you put into this turntable....At least there is sound from one channel...for a thing of such age,and the mechanisms are working....Enjoyed the vid...Cheers Ade

Record ology your friend vintage Record player from 1969 is awesome my friend 😅😅😊😅😊

I have one of the modern Duals. A CS-460 full auto. They are still made in Germany. It has been an excellent turntable. It is much lighter built than this, but most things are these days. The new Thorens full autos are also made by Dual.

Can you provide more information on the piece you reinstalled under the yellow gear. My start selector is also locking up and I did narrow it down to something under there but have yet to take it all apart. These are such finicky things.

The Dual wins most of the time. It’s a tank, it will last forever and it’s a piece of German expertise. I have two, I have them originally from the early 70’s. I had to try and repair the model 1249. I think is one of if not their best unit. After months of work and research. I gave up, it kicked my ass. Fortunately I learned of a person who on a very very limited bases agreed to do a complete restoration. I got it back after 10 days. It works perfectly. I love my Dual 1249. It’s fantastic. Note: I did purchases an Audio Technica AT LP 120. While it works great, there is no comparison. The Dual wins hands down. I will keep the AT LP 120 for my 78 rpm collection.

Record ology the vintage Record players from the 1969 are built good my friend 😅😅😊

Hey! I used to play with this turntable since I was very young, so I know it inside out :) What you did at some point during the video (clicking play button before the turntable was actually on + trying to bring it back to middle position) is the first no no no I learned when I was maybe 7 :D The lever would only get back to centre idle position on its on, after start or stop action is input...p.s: is that beep I can hear through the video a fire detector, telling you it's time to change its battery? 🤭

Vor meinem WEGA hatte ich kurz noch den DUAL 1210 meines Vaters, ca. 1968. :-)

Was I the only one who cringed when he nonchalantly flipped the single/ multi lever on the tone arm.

Grado cartridges and headphones are made in Brooklyn,NY

I have 3, 1015, 1019, and 1215 and Love all of them!

Hey Record ology-. I dug up a Longins symphonette 3 record box set from the 70s. Right on the sleeves it says for mono records a stylus weight of 10 grams is ideal. For the stereo LP, 5 grams is ideal. So the Victrola and Crosley players are not off base on weight.

Yeah as other have said, check the headshell for the bad connection.

I enjoyed this clip of Dual Turntable.

I love my gec turntable very much.but a dual.....I take my hat off to you mr R

So, I agree with the observation that it could be the connectors at the cartridge. A few older cartridges I have bought needed the pins cleaned. You can also carefully "spin" the connectors on the pins to ensure good contact. On vintage Grados I have found that pulling the stylus and LIGHTLY cleaning the four magnet posts (the ends only) can help. Grado packs their cartridges with black "goop" that needs to be there, but can, over time, run down between the stylus and magnets. Again, just clean the ends of the posts that are visible when the stylus is removed. Makes a huge difference on older Grado carts.

Beautiful

In Europe mine has with a shure M91ED cartridge and the vinyl size adjustment controls are in centimeters.

Anyone know what I have to do to get the multi play function to work on my 1219 or my 1229Q? Guide me there please

nooooo way! I had almost this exact same record player in 2017! It was a 1019 though and it was the first pro record player I ever restored and owned!

I love that dual turntable.. I guess I'm going to look for it, just have seen the comments on how to change the stylus or headshell and I feel better now thank you all for advices!!!!

I've got a bit of a whirring sound on my 1229q. I'd like to know how to figure out how to oil it, and do general maintenance.

I have a Philips 212 electronic with a tonearm that I designed myself. It will be buried with me.❤😄

First ! Replace that boring Grado for a Shure M 95 with an elliptical needle... With a Dual "Click System" it won't need a special adjustment and will sound much better

I have several Duals including a 1229. That Grado could be the issue. I love Grado, but newer grado's have issues on some Duals. I had 3 Grado silvers. and sound great, but some times cause issues. removed two and put older grado' G1 and Fc no trouble The 1229 still has the silver, but I just tap head shell to clear. With issue still Love the tables. Don't laugh I have 9 and play them all.

Nice idler turntable. My friends dad also had one, but he stored it with the idler wheel engaged, so the rubber malformed over the years. Couldn't keep the RPM stable because of that. About that right channel issue: Most of the time, full automatic TTs have some kind of mechanical "mute" switch to disconnect the cartridge from the output while its not playing. Maybe this Dual also has one which has switching issues due to dust or oxidation? It seems like the cartridge is mounted on a tray that can be released by pulling the headshell handle backwards. Maybe the tray contacts have been oxidized?

Help! My 1019 has slow sleep and I have lubed it. It all looks great and all works except the speed. I already tried to adjust the spindle height but I can’t anymore or else it hits the platter. Please help.

Love old Dual turntable

I am running a 1972 pioneer turntable, and it works like new

Sounds like the cartridge may be cactus...

I have a 1219 sitting in my den right now. I bought it new back in 1969. Still works but needs a new cartridge.

Great vid

I hade a dual 701 direct drive.but it was stolen never got it back

My late dad had a newer one. It came with an Audio-Technica stylus, at least is the one I've always seen on it.

One ought not to touch the edge of the idler, lest you get finger oil on it.

And they were warrantied for 3 years in case of wear out.

how can i rectify the speed of a AT LP60?

Thing is pretty modern for 69

I also noticed I do not see you have groud wire connections

That Record Wrecker looks nasty! No way in HELL I'd let my records near that thing!

"Rim drive" idler driven turntables were awful. It's amazing how an archaeological find like this changes from the "junk" it was considered back in the day to something fantastic now that it's vintage. The rim drive gives you the worst of both worlds. The reason belt drive is preferred in some cases is that it isolates any motor rumble from the platter, but at the cost of a higher wow and flutter due to belt stretching. Direct drive is preferred in other cases due to the low wow and flutter and other torque considerations, but at the cost of possible motor noise getting transferred to the platter. Rim drives are bad at both. They fail to fully isolate the motor from the platter so rumble (and feedback transfer through the plinth too) is probable yet the use a rubber idler that can slip, warp, get flat spots, and especially with that tapered drive motor shaft on the Dual have little hope of ever having a low wow and flutter. As a piece of furniture they were a marvel to behold, but as a high-end piece of audio equipment, they were not.