And also worth mention that if you push/pull you need to shoot the whole roll of film on that ISO setting.

I think it will be easier to digest by understanding the exposure triangle. Push to higher ISO = Underexposed and Pulling to lower ISO = Overexposed. Higher ISO allows a faster shutter speed/ smaller aperture setting. Lower ISO allows slower shutter speed/larger aperture. Besides the desire of shooting in particular shutter speed, using expired film or want to create a unique film look ( grains and tone) can also be the reason for doing pulling or pushing in film photography.

I disagree that pulling isn't needed. If you're shooting high contrast scenes and you don't want the high contrast then pull. If you need that tiny bit extra dynamic range, pull. If you want less grain, pull. I always pull Pan F+ 50 by a stop to get beautiful tonality and no grain for example

Hey man, great video again. But you forgot to mention one very important thing about pushing. The film is obviously not as sensitive as a film that is two stops more sensitive. And this will express itself in the low brightness regions like the darks and shadows. Those were simply not exposed enough to pull detail out of it. Dark stays dark. So generally it creates a much more contrasty look. And this is why pushing is not "seeing" in the dark. We're actually pulling detail from the mids en highlights. A side effect of film that is not being exposed correctly is grain, which can also be a desired effect like the contrasty look.

I try not to push film unless I have to. I try to have the right speed film for the shoot. I have more slow speed film like 100 or 125 . Some 400 and a roll or two of 3200. When I worked as a photographer I usually carried two cameras. One loaded with 125 speed B&W, the other with 400 B&W or Ektachrome slide film usually 100 speed. I also had a third backup camera that was full manual only.loaded with the primary film I needed for the shoot. Usually 125 speed. Only a few shoots did I need the 3200 speed film as my primary. Sometimes I went slower at 25 speed. But I didn’t pull the film. I used Agfa 25 at the time. You use that film for the extra fine grain. It has great tonal range and makes extra large prints. Poster size or even mural size pictures. It’s not just the speed and versatility but the grain. The faster the film the more grain. Sometimes you want a grainy effect. I didn’t worry about developing for contrast. I can control that post production with the photo paper uses. Paper like film is rated. But for contrast. The lower the number the lower the contrast. You also have multi-contrast paper that uses filters on the enlarger to adjust the contrast. So unless you want grain use the slowest speed film you can for the photo shoot.

Testing out a roll pushed led me to only want to shoot that film pushed. I only want to shoot Tri-X at 800 or 1600 now. Film is such a great journey.

I think the one thing I was hung up on before watching this is that you gotta tell your developer that you pushed or pulled your film. That makes a LOT more sense now!

Its also useful if you have an old film. I once had a very very old roll of Kodak TMAX 1600 that after a bit of consideration and advice from my dad I pulled down to 800. Only 1 stop overexposure but it turned out great. Also if you are developing your own film yourself all you need to do is develop as the speed you pushed/pulled to according the the development times given for the developer. Pulling film usually has the effect of decreasing the appearance of grain, pushing increases it.

I generally pull HP5 by a stop in the studio, it gives me easier (flat) negatives to work with in the darkroom. You can always add contrast back to a scan or print in post.

I just got a roll of TriX pan 400 back from lab that had expired in 02/2000. I metered it at 100 and had in developed at normal settings. It all came out very well.

Honestly love your content. I'm just getting into it and this is saving me so much stress. Thanks man appreciating this channel

Love your videos! Most people on youtube love to hear their own voices past the point of overkill. You on the other hand get to the point with no bs or filler...keep the videos coming!

Man you went for the easiest way to describe this and you nailed it. Just discovered your channel today. Thanks a lot! Brand new to 35mm photography. Came from video background started on Hi-8. Picked up a Pentax K1000

Another reason to push is to get faster shutter speeds in low light situations. And not have to use your lens wide open

Great explanation. Can't wait to try pushing my 400d cinestill

Can I just say, I'm extremely grateful for you. You've taught me so much about film and you are so good at simplifying things, THANK YOU.

Just pushed a roll of Ektar by 2 stops. I'm excited to see the results

I think I just found the Peter McKinnon of film photography 🙌🏼😅 a question: why do people push film to under expose? Why don’t you just shoot 400 stock on 400 iso/asa and then reduce the exposure compensation by 1 stop on your Minolta x700? Film newbie here and would appreciate the advice!

I watched so many videos on pushing/pulling and this was the only one I understood, thank you so much!!

I've read about people taking advantage of Portra 800's wide exposure latitude by shooting at 400, then _pushing_ one stop in development. I'm gonna try this. I can attest to Portra800's wide latitude with some flash photos I was probably overexposed by a couple stops and some detail was lost in the highlights but overall they came out beautifully saturated

Something you should also keep in mind if its your first time pushing film make sure you check in with your local camera shop before hand because they might not be able to push your type of film in the developing process. I was about to try it with my Cinestill 800t but fortunately I called them first to get their input and they informed me they could only push black and white due to technical constraints. So moral of the story: Give your developer a heads up or you might end up with some Extremely over/underexposed photos!

Would really love if you could do this video again but with examples to show what the different levels of push/pull look like.

Best video on this. Thank you

I had to comeback to this one. I just shot a roll of Porta 400 behind Gold 200 without adjusting my ISO or Shutter. Ok one stop is no biggie. I’ll process it like regular

What’s your favorite film to push?! 🎞

Thank you man! Finally someone to explain what this means and why people do it.

Wish you would explain how to develop pushed/pulled color film

You explained it well!!!

I wanted to see examples :(

The first time I pushed film, a Neopan Acros 100, I forgot to inform the developer that I pushed 2 stops. The results were very underexposed. Post processing with LR helped bring out the highlights and shadows but also resulted in very grainy pictures

Awesome! Am planning to get a film camera but one step at a time haha ... if that day comes, i'll rewatch all your videos.

Super helpful, thanks!

Thanks man 😍 I needed a practical explanation

Nice content, man! I'm learning also from the comments, haha! Your videos are a very good starting point for beginners to get the hang of many film photography concepts. Thanks!

Good explanation. One thing though-you’ll want to consider pulling your film if you overexpose transparency film by as little as one stop given it’s decreased exposure latitude vs color print film, especially in the highlights.

So I have an Ilford fp4 plus (B&W ISO 125) and that ISO for me is so low I want to get more light into it, so I should shoot it like 50 Iso right? So my camera thinks the film is even less sensitive and my light meter guides me to overexpose, and when developed it'll have more light. In a nutshell if I want to simulate a more sensitive film for lower light conditions, I should pull to a lower ISO, and if I want to simulate a less sensitive film for conditions with a lot of light, push to a higher ISO right? Or am I dumb and should I do the complete opposite? Thank you for the video, but with some examples it'd be much easier to understand

Ok..got it..when pushing the film by 2 stops we should tell the developers about that so we.dont have underexposed pics. But this should not happen when pulling, right? If i pull my film, shootting a 400 film as a 200 film I do want that extra brightness, more details in my shadows and probably a little bit more of grain. So if i pull there is no need to tell anything about it to the guy at the lab. Am I right?

Pulling is useful in high contrast situations for instance if you are talking a photo inside by a window and want the outside also to not be blown out

BIG HELP!!! THANK YOU SOMUCH!

his helped alot thanks dude

Can you add example photos of you actually push/pull the film

These videos are so helpful omg. So, at the end when you talk about the fact that you shoot your colour film overexposed by one stop (eg. porta 400 shot at 200 iso), this isn't pulled because you still get it developed at 400? Whereas if you got that same film developed at 200 then it would be pulled... That's right isn't it?

This was a great explanation of pushing and pulling film!

Editing on a new level! I see you 👀 . Would’ve been funny if you actually pushed and pulled film.

Thanks man, keep this videos coming.

What about shutter speed? Push film do you also have to compensate your shutter speed? So, for example, if you pushed 400 to 1600 would your shutter speed have to be 1/1600 ?

Clutch needed to watch this right about now

Love your videos! I’m learning so much just from watching your videos. I was just wondering where do you buy your films??

That's nice. You push to 1600 and later what do you do with the shutter speed? You have to lower it down? Thank you

Would love to see some examples, I can't wrap my head around it... but I'm a newbie.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

im new to film photography and i thought the title meant physically pushing and pulling film out of the canister 😹

I pushed Portra 160 accidentally, I shot it at 400, I will be giving it away to develop soon, let's see what will be the results of that 🤙🏾

Can you push/pull by using the EV selector? Like keeping the film ISO but setting the EV +2/-2

So when we push in camera , should we tell the lab to pull ? I am confused 🤔

@kingjypes I'd love you to get hold of some infrared film, shoot it and develop it. Most older film SLR's will have special marks on the focus scale on the lens indicating the "correction" you need to apply when focusing. This is because infrared light focuses at a different focal point than visible light so you will see an out of focus image in camera but it will be in focus when developed as you only captured the IR light. Try shooting trees and people!

So.. this setting for your camera meter to 1600 for +2 stops of 400 speed film is only if you’re shooting in Aperture Priority (A) mode correct? If you were shooting manual with 400 speed film pushed to 1600 you’d need to set your shutter speed to 1/2000 for sunny 16 correct? And if you were only shooting sunny 16 in manual mode, I’m guessing it would be irrelevant what your cameras iso meter was set to?

Good vid!

Why would you ever want to underexpose film? Won’t you just get less detail? And couldn’t you just change the brightness in photoshop if you want a darker picture?

If you wanted more light sensitivity, why wouldn’t you just pull the film { 400 box speed to 200 } and then the lab develops it normally. But I guess for contrast the shooting with pushing and developing pulling creates the desired affect?

One more reason to push - the most important for me: I love the extra visible grain structure

So is this the same as moving the exposure compensation dial to +1? And I leave it at 400 ISO?

3 stops would be 3200? Since i develop using monobath. 75degrees... 3.5 minutes. How much long would i have to leave it in the developer?

Thanks for the info! I’m still fresh in film and this will help with an evening photo walk this weekend.

Great video man! I have a question on this. What if different frames on a film roll has been set to different ISO values. Do you need to tell the developer to develop the roll as the box ISO or something else to compensate for each photo?

The other pacific islanders photographers who are not your friends , do you give them props if their work is good?

Thanks for sharing.

So what about the cameras that don't have iso settings, for example my TLR ferrania elioflex has no iso settings 4 apperture settings and 4 shutter speeds I can't push film on this camera

What’s the difference between pushing your film by one stop with the developers and pushing your film by one stop by lowering the iso setting on your camera? Hopefully that makes sense. Over exposing with developers vs over exposing in camera.

How do I set my meter if I overexpose by 1 stop? Let’s say i set my asa on my camera at 200 for a ultramax400/portra 400. Should i set my meter at 800? Not planning to pull it.

Great video thanks I’m still struggling to understand this If you need more light say, why not just set the shutter speed slower? The metre will say you’re over exposing but is that not exactly what happens by tricking the camera to think it has a different iso film, then using a slower shutter to bring the metre up? Or if you need a faster shutter why not just use a faster shutter and know that the shots going to be underexposed. Just the same result as pushing anyway right? It seem like over or under exposing your photo then in the developing stage, fixing this..is what creates the look? Not tricking the camera into what iso it uses. I’m guessing it’s so you can use the metre correctly? Even though the shot will not be properly exposed Confusing! 😅

I learning a lot with you tnanks

If I push it two stops do I also have to match my shutter speed? Or can I keep it at 500

You have to have someone else develop your film, they have to be able to push it in the developing. Some use machines that you put the film in one end and it comes out the other. Some places say they can push film and charge more for it.

Hi, Since I only shoot manually and meter with an app and put my settings in for every shot . Do I have to set the pushed ISO on the ISO wheel? I am not sure what the wheel does actually. Thank you.

Do you have to push the whole roll

so if i push one stops in my camera, i can shoot normally with the right metering meter

Why don’t you just use exposure compensation on your Minolta and under expose a stop? Is is that different?

I shot at 400 and then midway through i pushed to 800. Can this still be developed right?

In what situations would you want to push film and do you also mainly pull film for expired film?

Can you change your ISO mid roll or will that mess up the whole film strip?

Hey King Jvpes, Nice video. I had a question for you. I recently shot a roll of Fujifilm C200 which had expired around 2 years ago at 250 ISO, effectively underexposing it instead of overexposing it (by using the half a stop overexposure rule), by mistake. If I get it processed normally without any suitable adjustment during development, what do you think the results might turn out to be? Or how should I ask the lab to process the roll so that the end result is not a wasted effort? Any input would be nice to learn since I am completely new to the pushing/pulling side of film photography. Cheers!

Great video. When you pull film IE shoot 400 film at 200 ISO do you need to inform your developer you made that adjustment?

A question for anyone out there. Could you just shoot at box speed use your exposer compensation dial to over/under expose as you wish then develop normally to get similar results as pushing or pulling film?

I'm new to the film photography game, recently bought a Minolta X-700 (#minolta gang 🙂). But my question is, do you ever use the exp. comp dial to adjust for dark/bright scenes? (leaving development time at box speed). Or is the exp. comp, just a way to push or pull stop(s) in the same way as setting your iso from for example 400 to 800. Do you ever add/subtract a stop depending on the subject. Without adjusting development time... Hope my question is a bit clear 🤔🙂 Love your videos, man! Would like to see more POV shooting video's. Fan of those kind of clips.

I started shooting a portra 400 at 100 iso by mistake, then i realized and changed it to 400 iso, does anyone know if the pictures i took at iso 100 will come out well if i develop the film as iso 400? 🤔

Love your channel mate.

The third reason to push film is if it is very old. Worth pushing it a stop.

I don't seem to see many comments associated with compensation dials... should we develop at anything else than box speed if we add/subtract one, or two more stops of light? (for reference I use an Olympus OM-2n)

This is great! Thanks for this

When you push/pull in this way, are you just letting the developer know or are you asking them to push/pull?

Does it make sense to rate portra400 at 200 and pushing it to 1 stop?

thank you!!!!

what if you did it on a point and shoot like a contax t2 or fuji klasse?

urm i’m using lubitel camera. there is no setting for iso. how i gonna push my film?

Question, one you push it two stops do you have to develop the film like a lets say 1,600 iso film? This question because I develop my bw film myself at home. Thanks Erik

Should I be pushing a BW film? Shooting HP5 400 on a Manual SLR. Or can I just continue on with my metering and shoot?

Great video. I really enjoy your videos they are so helpful and have great information. I've been shooting with UltraMax 400. I am wondering if it ok to push it to 1600 or 800? Did you try it out yourself?

might be a stupid question but when pushing/pulling do you adjust the shutter speed to whatever you are setting the iso to or do you keep shutter speed true to the films iso. Also, if you adjust the shutter speed of the camera, do you counter that by adjusting the aperture or are you all good?

Late to the party but what happens when you push/pull while shooting but have the film developed at box speed?