LOL, I will see him in a month or so..

Albert S. I can imagine that. Complete with white board diagram and description. :)

HumbleMechanic What was the second thread repair method you suggested after helicoil? I couldn't catch the name.

TIME-SERT®

HumbleMechanic Finally something that I have advanced certification in. The 90 degree straight extension doesn't have any measurable effects between applied torque loading and the force yielded at destination, assuming the tool head remains a square 90° over the fitting. Measurement degradation starts when the force source isn't centered above the targeted point, like when requirements call for an universal joint or "dog bone". I'm also not considering the unlikely circumstances of the tools being substandard and twisting between supply and resolution. I've picked up the habit of butting two nuts against each other on the opposite stud face to assist with gripping lubricated studs during installation, it helps my grip considerable. I am a fan of your channel and enjoy the knowledge from your experience with something that I don't have much opportunity to get personal experiences with, as well as the little tips I don't think of. I'm also sorry If I haven't been susinct and clear, but I have been up well past my bed time today.

+Tony Baratta I'm in the south. It's more like soapy wahwder

Wonder if anyone realized that was a chrisfixit reference.

I'm from Australia, so it's soapy worter ;)

@@mxszoniq5757 I understand that reference haha

Wordor

I agree. There is no such thing as "too clean".

patw52pb1 the last thing you want is a brand new stud to 'gall' in a dirty thread..then more labor invested.

@@leecoen2577 Or bottom out on debris in a blind hole. We also get better torque to clamping consistency when the hole and threads are clean and distortion free. With our applications, labor is the inexpensive component and we are all paid well.

@Tobytronic Cat Well, our labor charge is commensurate with our level of capabilities, expertise, experience and knowledge. Our labor rates currently start at $100 per hour and go to $275 per hour. We have very very few complaints regarding what we charge. Our clients prefer our level of clean, attention to detail and the results we deliver.

Exactly my thoughts

LOL, me too.

I talk to the ARP Tech and he said to only put lube on the top part of the washer. The bottom side should stay dry clean. I double checked because I had saw a tech in a video talking about installing. I don’t know all the reasons but he mentioned that the washer would bite in better

Exactly.... Do NOT do it as explained in the video. And make sure that if your washers are chamfered, that the chamfer goes up, against the bolt head to clearance the chamfer of the bolt head.

I Am sure that someone can make a hard way LOL

HumbleMechanic Yes, you're talking to him ; ]

HAHAHA

Correct. Torque-to-yield involves plastic deformation (stretch beyond the material's elastic range)

kitastan So it doesn't seize(hence anti-sieze)

I did some digging, that ARP lube looks like Mo2S CV joint grease. I got some second hand and used some Mo2S grease.

@@Tomyp89 The ARP grease is specifically designed for the type of use it is used for and CV joint grease is used in a totally different application.

I have to agree.. the reason you hear of studs backing out is because of people ignorant to this fact and lube the stud into the block.. the only thing that should be used is motor oil if it is a blind hole.. or possibly a thread sealant if it is a thru hole that accesses coolant but not always necessary and ONLY HAND TIGHT.. second thought.. why would you even attempt cv grease.. each kit comes with enough moly to relube the threads multiple times if need be

@@y0utub4user I also was wondered why he lubed the threads going into the block. Those threads do not turn [torsion], are only in tension. The lube goes on the threads with the nut and washer to provide a good & even torquing process. I think he did that wrong.

I have had good luck going either way as long as you're careful. If you use a tap properly it should make the threads proper for installing the bolt. It can cut metal where a thread chaser will not. But if the bolts are in fair to great condition I don't think it's an issue. But you do need to take greater care in using a tap than a thread chaser

I usually recommend using a thread chaser unless the person performing the operation is knowledgeable, skilled, experienced and is using the correct tap. Taps are not universal sized and are available is several types and sizes of minor and major thread diameters for the same nominal diameter and pitch meaning the incorrect type/size can remove too much material on the root, crest and flank of an existing internal thread (hole) thereby significantly weakening the strength of the thread left behind. Almost all decent commercial thread chasers available typically have cutting flute dimensions and geometry that do not harm the exiting thread even in the hands of a novice. Having said all of the above, I have successfully used a tap to chase threads when that is all that I had. ;) I have also used a tap to chase threads and butchered the threads requiring time consuming (read as expensive) thread repair inserts to fix my screw-up.

NICE!

It makes virtually no difference in this application

Thank you

It is also a must for the Ford 6.0 PSD.

Yep, that is one of the best parts about them

+rimmersbryggeri lol that's fair. ;)

I actually learned about Helicoils when my dad was working for a company that is now owned by saab aviation. They would often break threads in the assembly of radar jamming missile parts and such and when parts have more than $10000 in machine hours on them you really don't want to have to make them again if you can avoid it.

4 helicoils used on rocker studs on a 1966 corvette camel hump head with no problems. Thats with a .600 lift camshaft.

If I wasn't using the spacer, I wouldn't use the spray regardless of the HP. I mean I am sure there is a point where you need to consider the gasket more, but 500hp is probably going to be fine. Now if you are doing a CRAZY build, I might talk with the machine shop to be sure

Good question. Probably nothing, but I would highly recommend the ARP spec

The factory bolts are a complete different design. You do want to torque the ARP bolts per the instruction with your kit.

TYT bolt torque is based on the diameter of the bolt in engineering books, just look it up, you dont need to know engine applications.

No OEM there

Lowers the compression ratio.

:)

Like Dacasman said it's to drop compression. Not needed for low levels of boost, but gives me a little room to grow

I must be missing something, lol. I thought a higher compression would be better (unless unsafe).

Turbo boost and compression ratios determine how much fuel octane you need. That is why when you want to use pump gas and add a turbo, reduced compression ratios are used. Factory turbocharged cars are built with lower compression ratios than their turbocharged counterparts. One of my favorite cars of all time, the Z32 Nissan 300ZX has about 8.5:1 compression for the twin turbo model, and the non-turbo 300ZX has about 10.5:1 compression. Turbo boost and compression ratios aren't the only things that determine how much octane you need, but they are probably the biggest 2 factors.

That is the older model Snap On Tech Wrench

thanks.is ACDelco a good brand?

I have not used one of theirs.

I would want to re time it, or remove teh cams and do a cylinder leak down test

I think the oil will work fine. I think that is what ARP uses as a back up.

ok cool thanks keep up the good work :D

Oil is not made for extreme pressures like the one found between threads of threaded fasteners. It is not because you have always done it that way before that it is the best method. In tests I have conducted I found that motor oil on threads of connecting rod bolts accounted for very little difference in bolt stretch.

Thor Dehr apr calls for you to use the lube on the threads in the block..

Most likely you’ll be fine

professionally get a new head gasket and start again, but fuck that just torque it down.

Depends where the loose bolt is. Always start in the middle of the part and work in a circular pattern towards the outside edges. Nothing has changed in mettalurgy even if engineers try to make you think it has.

It will not do any good. What you will test in a "double check" is the friction that is present between the contact surfaces, That is the static friction and it is always higher than the dynamic one. The only way you can really check the "torque" is to break the fastener loose and torque it again or measure the stretch. In experiments, I have done for a book I wrote we found that about 75% of the friction that is recorded with a torque wrench is static friction. You would have to torque and release a fastener 6 to 8 times to remove the majority of the friction. The ARP lube will remove the remainder.appliedspeed.com

I think it was just an Allen socket

+john M hahah. The second that came out of my mouth I heard it too

HumbleMechanic I don't think we need to see twerking. Lol

That's why it went black. So we don't see it.

DAMN I can't believe that happened again. I am not sure what the heck is going on. I am lost a few seconds of video on another one too.

HumbleMechanic "Shit Happens"

+Erik groennings I ran a decked head and a mk4 gasket on my Cabby VR,l with no issues. Off hand I don’t know the spec.

HumbleMechanic thanks !!! love the show

Had I not split the gasket I wouldn’t have used it.

Back in the 1960's we used to build our motors in our race boats with mls head gaskets, everyone sprayed the gaskets with either silver paint or copper paint. Its just another layer adding to the crush, insuring a better seal. May add 002-.004 thickness though.

Vr6

I am not totally sure. I Would call ARP before I spent the $$$

+Lime yep. I'll have a video on that too.

Get your rods resized and shot peened, and use ARP bolts. Thats your stress guage. Focus on deburring the casting on the sides of the rods, especially where the vector loads are occurring on the big end where it narrows down from large to smaller. Deburring the casting lines adds 20% stregnth to the rods. Shot peen when deburred.