i guess I'm kind of off topic but do anyone know of a good website to watch newly released series online ?

I too used Clarity on my Polks Ls90's was a great improvement

Our business model remains the same.

The "just in time" method builds to expected demand only. This allows the company to require less warehouse space as well as lower the taxes that states assess on businesses' inventories. At the manufacturing level it is great. But at the service level for the very manufacturer it is horrendous.

Those drivers are not designed for the type of abuse that an electric guitar can generate. You'd have to use a large group of them to get good results.

Give the X-Statik a run with all the upgrades

Danny is twice the man.

Don’t need to know EE principles. Danny gives you a schematic for the crossover along with the parts and you just follow it. Attach part A to part B and solder it. Danny also has a build video for crossovers. Also, look up some of the build threads on AudioCircle. They’ll sometimes show the crossovers people have built. If you can solder, you can make the crossovers.... Go for it. And, if you get stuck, ask for help...

@@Eddie07S Thanks, I think I can too, probably just need to get to the sink or swim point and do it.

Yes, it was tough to mention and not be emotionally involved again.

Supply problems are a still a problem and it takes a LOT longer to get anything.

We just send you the parts.

The X-LS Encore is at the top of the heap for the budget level kits. The NX Studio Monitor is in the next class.

Soldering is a cinch, I learned on my own when I was 12. Key: don't melt the solder on the tip of the iron, heat the joint and let the hot joint melt the tin. Keep everything steady (stable, twisted, etc) so you won't get a crystalyzed joint. 2-3 seconds to cool and harden. Should look shiny, not matte. That's it. Don't leave drops of solder around. Make sure nothing is shorting. Don't put tons of tin. Just enough. That's enough for a crossover board. PC boards, transistors, etc are more delicate and if you overheat you'll spoil stuff. But to build a speaker (or an old fashioned tube device) it's more than enough. Maybe get some junk old radio and practice a couple of hours. Dont burn yourself. Don't do it on your desk: you'll leave burn marks. Keep the iron tip clean, just with a thin film of tin. (rub on a wet sponge on your table) You'll be soldering in no time. The more you do it the easier it gets. Just a little detail: the first kit hi-fi at my parents' was put together by ...my mom! She said, "if you do it with your hands I can do it". And she did! A Dynakit Mk3 60 W amp and preamp. It worked fine! :-) So, get off your ass and do it. Anybody can. Don't carp about 'made in China'. Do it yourself. :-) LOL

Quality isn't about the gauge of the wire.

He offers kits that are complete or have a cabinet shop put together some and a little soldering done right then you will have an awesome setup.

Your water travels for miles and miles through pipes that lead to your house. And then how is it that the last feet feet change the way the water tastes? Because in the last few feet it passes through a filter. Likewise, that last 5 feet of cable is different than the rest. It is a filter. And a ton of RFI and EMI can be filtered out by the cable.

Thank you for responding and Merry Christmas. I would really love it if you would sit down with the people at audioholics who distinctly would claim that cables are not filters. They are resistors at best and you could possibly coil one so tightly that it becomes an inductor. Yes, it is possible to introduce noise into any copper cable. Lets get all the measuring equipment out and test all of this. I think a brand new device that loops back into itself would be the only good way to test a cable. I saw your video explaining that conductors functioning as antenna can be measured differently. Believe me, I sincerely understand that changing out cables can sound different, but either the science can not adequately explain the situation or it has and people hearing the difference between two brands of identical gauge cable are not willing to accept the results. I completely understand things like 20kHz NOT being the upper limit as to "what humans hear" because overtones going past 20kHz make a difference in the signal below 20kHz. but the thing is that there is a lot of science to back it up and nothing backing up the claim that a lowpass filter at 20kHz would sound indistinguishable from a 96kHz file with high frequency content past 30kHz. I've argued many of the myths about audio myself that on the surface seem like they don't adhere to scientific principles on the surface, but it is only because a basic understanding of how audio and electronics works is being employed to try to explain away a much more complicated subject. I understand the frustration when you understand something from a higher level and are lectured by someone with much less experience. I just don't see power cables or transmission cables at line level as being an issue that is worth debating much over. My signal path to my headphones for vocal monitoring is quite convoluted and complex connecting about a half dozen devices and I just don't believe by switching out the half dozen pairs of cables connecting all this that we will preserve fidelity in some way. Everything else in that signal path is 100 times more important than the wires. The noise floor on my bookshelf monitors is so vanishingly low I have to put my ears right next to the tweeter to hear their noise floor of the built in amp. I don't know if you are suggesting that only when audio is present would any of this noise manifest itself, but I used to have a $20 Behringer headphone amp connected to an Asus sound card and the noise floor was impossible to detect through the headphones. There was nothing you could do to hear it unless you ran it into more amps and had everything at half gain, which is obviously a deliberate attempt to hear the noise floor. Absolutely zero noise, period. The sound card's noise floor was something like 120db and the Behringer unit didn't add any noise, but maybe gave it 20db of gain. After experiencing this sort of setup as cheap as the components were, the situation is that there was literally no way to clean the signal up any more.

@@christopherbass4521 I would love to have the guys from Audioholics over for some listening.

You won’t be disappointed. Get the upgraded components Danny offers. They suited me well until I picked up some la scalas. Now, I go back and forth between my worked la scalas and the xls’s.

My daily is a Yellow 2006 convertible with a Grand Sport wide body. It has had the rear end gears lowered, a FTI triple disk converter (3800), a small cam, some head work (porting), headers, Vararam air cleaner.... puts 400 to the rear wheels and runs low 7's in the 1/8th at about 95 mph. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kMeeYM15u62-YaM.html

I also drive a tube chassis S-10 pickup that belongs to my Dad. It's a lot faster. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bb6Zgad8zK2RfWg.html

And Dad has a 67 full tube chassis Vette that we just got and are making some changes and tweaks to. It will run high 5's. I've made several passes in it a few months ago.

Thanks for the replies Danny! When I was a kid my parents had a 67 Goodwood Green roadster, which they sold in 1986 when I was 10, so I’ve always had a passion for Corvettes (especially C2s). I had four different C5s of various flavors before the real ‘Adulting’ started and a 2-seat car just doesn’t work at the moment. Keep up the good work on the videos and best of luck in all your endeavors.

We are a small team and some of them don't want to be in front of the camera. And I am not sure if Amazon is the right fit for us just yet. We do ship a lot of products to Canada though.

No, what you have is great.

If this is for a low frequency driver or sub in an H frame then keep your wings the same length on each side.

@@dannyrichie9743 Okay! Thank you! I'm gonna trust you but do you understand why I'm a little hesitant with this? To take it to the extremes if the baffle is 6" thick putting the center of the board at the center of the wing would make the front of the baffle sit @ 3" in for my 1 ft wing. Now examining the distances... the front will travel 3" until it can wrap around the wing. The back wave has to make it through 6" of baffle before it even touches it's wing... making the travel distance 6"+3" They won't meet in the middle of the outside wing but somewhere closer to the back. Is this theoretically sound? If my 90* isn't perfect and it's off by 5* then my greatest point of silence (@ 45ft away) could make a big difference.

@@littlegandhi1199 Ah, now I understand your question. So why is your baffle 6" thick?

@@dannyrichie9743 It's just regular 3/4" I'm just saying wouldn't that example show an error in how to center the baffle making the cancellation not occur @ 90 degrees? I'm just assuming the center line of the wings should line up with the very front of the baffle for this reason. Seems like it will always travel longer out the back wave if you put the center of the baffle on the center of the wings (if you don't cut in a channel for your woofer to sit) I'd have to get out a couple microphones and check the time arrival to be sure

@@littlegandhi1199 Even if the frame was a U shape you still have cancellation at 90 degrees off axis. It just moves the center point.