The fuzzy inside and outside is because they're cut with a laser. Carbon might have a high boiling point sure but dump 100KW of laser power in a single point and you'll make anything disintegrate. You can use diamond lapping compound to smooth it out if you want, but it's a lot of process time (and consumes a lot of diamond in and of itself (fun fact, the industrial diamond factory I did work for a while back was their own largest customer. 60% of the diamonds they produced went right into lapping compound and grinding wheels so they could cut their own diamond parts)).

I watched the outro so I won't leave an angry comment about you destroying a perfectly fine phone screen

I think your hardness chart was mixed up with the conductivity chart

The glare on the nozzle from the lights @4:16 really shows how smooth the tip is.

As an employee and 3d printer hobbyist they made these for our own 3d designs for cases and custom organization on the production floor of drill bits being made, tool holders etc, when hobby 3d Printing took off that's when they came up with the idea to ramp up production of the nozzles and sell them. I have been printing with the same nozzle for 2.5 years now and its still clean and perfect, thermal properties are much better too that helps with layer adhesion among other things. The heated presses used for this manufacturing process are mind boggling and incredibly dangerous.

I have one of these I purchased inebriated about 3 years ago. 4,000 some odd hours later, across 3 machines. Printing every filament. Zero issues. None. It’s a fantastic piece of kit.

That thing with the grinding wheel at 11:51 is 100% legitimate and real-time. I've once did more or less the same thing. Had to dress a grinding wheel on a dremel. Just touched the spinny thing with a diamond dresser and got a huge groove. Did the job, and the dresser was unfazed, not even a slightest trace of cutting through alumina. The sensation was unreal, I'm used to feeling the grinding wheel removing material and being hard in general, but a diamond cuts through it like it was made of paper.

"Diamonds! These are real! You probably don't believe me-" Huh? Is there still really people out there who think diamonds are expensive or uncommon? lol

Thank you for reminding me of these nozzles since Zack's video. I wanted one so bad since that video released but none would fit into my Bambu X1C, just googled it and they now sell one for my X1C at E3D's website. I paid $100 for it instantly. Lost in Tech, you have done me a great service thank you, may we both drown in elite printing filaments.

2:16 - Wait, copper is harder than steel and tungsten carbide?? :O

There are actually materials harder than diamond, though they are not usually naturally occurring. Lonsdaelite is one and can be found along with diamonds in some meteorites. Others are carbon buckyballs or nanorods, and graphene. But these last, while harder, can only be synthesized artificially, and as far as I know don't create solid compact structures.

I have many of the Diamondback nozzles, and they are absolutely the best nozzles. They are worth it!

The footage of the nozzle destroying the grinding wheel; diamonds are actually used to dress grinding wheels in industry. When preparing a surface grinder you put a diamond tipped dressing tool on the table and run the diamond across the wheel to make it run true and remove dull/contaminated grit.

Um, your idea of a diamond-tipped soldering iron sounds fantastic.

I would love to have a diamondback nozzle that has the new internal structure which splits the extrusion stream into three with drilling or a copper insert

As nice as they are, I prefer a solid carbide nozzle for one reason- the body of the diamondback is brass, and that part can still wear over time.

Diamondback nozzles are available for many custom printers (I counted 10 different interfaces). They even have them for Bambu printers for example.

wow, just earlier today i saw your 2nd video and was thinking "damn i wonder when part 3 comes out" good looks brother

As a sidenote, these nozzles can clog. They're not cheap so you're likely going to keep using the same nozzle instead of tossing it when it's not printing properly. Once it happens, be prepared to cold pull if you switch rapidly between multiple kinds of filaments (PLA -> PETG -> ASA -> PETG -> ASA....) and your filament load/unload process doesn't try to grab and pull the leftover gunk in the nozzle. (Extrudes slightly before cooling the nozzle and then unloading). You'll know it's happening when you need to poke a thin wire in to open the nozzle. After a few times over a month or two, eventually you'll get to the point where that doesn't clear the opening anymore and a more serious solution is needed.

There has been a diamond filled filament! It actually wants to embrace it all, it was more lubricious. That's another advantage of the diamond nozzles, the surface is incredibly slick so you have very little chance of the filament sticking. The diamond filled filaments also took advantage of the heat conductivity properties of diamond as it was advertised as a high-flow pla. I think that gimmick has disappeared off of the interwebs though

It would be interesting to see how a filament unloading/change is affected. It looks like there is a lip on the inside where the diamond is seated and where plastic can get stuck and be mixed in after change. Same with "lesser" nozzles having rough insides

I have been using a diamondback in my v400 for a year now. It's amazing.

I love my diamondback nozzle. Can you do a macro shot from threaded side of the nozzle to see what the diamond looks like?

I own a Gühring Dianoz as V6 Nozzle. But this is very expensive. So i'm impressed of the price for this Nozzle here.

Poly means many or multiple. A poly crystalline structure means it isn't a solid crystal structure. It has different sub crystals with their own orientations and directions to them. Vs a mono crystalline solid that everything is lined up the same. So kinda like the difference of having a solid block of concrete vs one that you made with fresh concrete but also broken bits of older concrete too. The solid block of concrete is going to form a solid structure that can be subseptable to sheering along structure lines. Whereas the concrete with the old concrete mixed in will have a non solid (Uniform) structure through it becuase of the old concrete chucks having different directions of alignment and such. This helps eliminate fault/sheer lines that a non poly crystalline structure would have. (And is why adding aggregate to concrete or grog to pottery makes it much stronger too.) Poly crystals CAN be stronger in all directions over Crystalline structures. However full Crystalline structures CAN be much stronger in directions of strength depending on the crystals structure. Also monocrystals tend to be more thermally and electrically conductive over poly crystals as the changing directions of crystals causes resitance. That is a big reason why Mono solar panels are a lot better at producing power than poly. But yes in a way Poly crystals are like crystals inside crystals. Vs mono crystals which is just one big crystal.

If you are doing a lot of macro shots you might want to look into focus merging to give you a much better DOF on stuff. It can be difficult to see things when the plane of focus is maybe only a mm.

Great video! Looking forward to the update! I too wondered why they haven't come out with a diamondback soldering iron tip! I think the benefits would be worth the price 👍

There is a lot of food for thought in that linked article, but it's a bit hard to chew and digest. Might contain diamonds ;) I used to leave the outer wall with 0.4mm while all the other lines tend to be 0.6mm or more, but that nozzle is some 18 months now, I'd better use wider lines with it.

Great videos as always!

They may not have diamond filled filament, but there is carbon fiber filament. And that's probably at least equally as tough as diamond

Great video as usual

I think your hardness scale at 2:19 seems off, Copper is harder than ruby????

"soft diamonder" LOL.

A whole tungsten carbide nozzle like Oston sells makes more sense in my opinion, it won't crack when you hit the bed too much and is only 43$ on aliexpress

i have one of these on my K2 Max and i love it, it prints fantastic and allows me to print CF HTPLA for automotive parts. i have noticed the quality and consistency of my prints is very good as well. well worth the $100 IMO

Sorry to say, but I can not confirm a better flow rate with a revo version. I have a 0.6 and the flow rate is only on par with a normal brass nozzle. I wanted for my R2. 4 a 'never to bother anymore' solution. Wishful thinking. 😢

You should change your name to lost in nozzles at this point

I am curious if the process heats to 1400⁰C why the suggested max temp is 300⁰C everywhere I've looked. Looking specifically for an all arounder nozzle for mainly enclosed technical filaments. The new Polymaker PPS-CF sports a melt temp of around 340⁰C and the YZ-Polymer PPS (CF lackthereof) around the same melt temp.

I have a tungsten Carbide nozzle from Dawnblade on my V2 neo and have 0 issue with it and love it, have printed many abrasive things like CFPETG and glow in the dark pla. 0 issues. Only complaint is that there isnt a V6 version so i can use on my other printer.

Awesome technology, definitely a use case. The downside is it can still clog, no fault of the nozzle design. It is really convenient to toss a dirt cheap nozzle and move on. Pros and cons.

I got a nice 51mms³ out of my slightly modified Kobra 2 max hot end recently out of a 0.6mm nozzle. I'd say barely though as I could hear the extruder missing steps but 49/50 out of such a cheap printer and such a cheap mod is super cool.

Wooaaa wait a second! You didnt print the official "Banana For Scale"??????

Can you next do a test of CHT nozzles (also the 2$ aliexpress ones) when it comes to purging in an MMU/AMS? in my experience there is a lot more colorbleed when changing color depending on the nozzle, but I can't really measure that. Can you please

I have mixed thoughts on the conductivity stuff. The fact that it’s the most conductive sounds very relevant to 3D printing, but it just means that the behavior would be different but not strictly better. It will get up to temperature a lot faster than any other tip, but it will also get cold easily with the fan or the bed or the already printed plastic, so this “might” lead to a bit of inconsistency while a relatively poor conductor (not exactly an insulator) will take time to heat but it will also retain that heat quite well, so the temperature won’t change a single bit, so it might not need a powerful and very fast heating element or not as big of a heating block, but well, diamond is also very hard and will last a very long time, so it’s still better than anything just because of this

Maybe surface ironing with diamond nosles is why also worth it to buy one of this

9:08 it doesn't exists because solder won't stick to diamond tip! You kind of need that to actually solder parts. If it's just applying heat then it might work.

I'd definitely like to get some of these some day, butt like you said, it's much more worth it if ur printing constantly, so I'm holding off for now; they'll always be on my mind (heh, mind) tho

04:16 this is the shot when talking about Polycrystalline structure (I think, not an expert) since it reminds me of a Solar Cell, somewhat. Since there is a polished flat face you can "see into" the structure(s). Maybe some different spectrum of light and a few polarizing filters could make it pop? IDK if it is a thing it really just seems like it could be. Either way I really like this shot and then again at 04:33.

Hardened steel nozzles seem to last me forever, I have had them on my Ender 5 Plus machines for over 3 years and haven't worn yet. It would cost me a small fortune to get a full set of Diamond back nozzles and just for one printer!

I haven't watched this video yet. I would just like to say that I exclusively print with carbon/nylon. I make production parts for various industries. I cant speak highly enough about these nozzles. When every orint counts, any variable you can remove as a potential problem, the more time and money you will save.

I want your pitcher plants at 8:40! haha

Noted: produce a diamond soldering iron tip and ABS with diamonds, and I know whom to sell it to

I'm dying to get my hands on one of those diamond discs! I'll buy it from you once you get bored with it. Unless you're like me, and you tend to accumulate toys and never let them go.

Diamonds Are Forever by Shirley Bassey

The fact that they haven't made a bambulab compatible hot end yet is borderline handicapped. So many people would buy them immediately

Regarding the diamond soldering iron: Does molten solder stick (slightly) to PCD? In a soldering iron, you want the solder to be able to wet the tip, as that results in increased thermal conductivity, it acts like thermal compound between the iron and your part. (Note, that I'm not saying you should melt all the solder on your iron, just that a little molten solder on the tip will increase thermal transfer to the joint, so you can melt the solder on the joint faster).

I have a tungsten carbide nozzle on my 3D printer. About half the price, and will also happily carve up my bed if the Z offset gets messed up.

Diamond filled ABS! OMG this needs to be a thing! Make custom grinding wheels with is 😅

What if the diamond tip nozzel is paired with CHT...It can improve the flow rate ig...

Interesting. I wonder how a diamond heatsync would go on a CPU???

You can get in every shop in the uk bananas without any problem in many kilograms if you wanted.

I'm interested in tungsten carbide nozzles and their lifetime. And other thermal conduct properties. I have 3 different sizes of Phaetus' nozzles made out of TC and for now, I haven't changed the nozzle. Only hotend. It's been great but I recommend filming those with macrolenses. Rough surfaces but job well done.

12:08 Makes it seem kind of stupid to ever use the exact nominal diameter of the nozzle. I've been using the same 0.4mm for years. Next time I have something to print I'll try setting it to 0.45mm or 0.5mm and see if there's any difference in print quality.

55 holy f@&$, as a user of a ruby nozzle, I need to upgrade.

How much of the nozzle are Polycrystalline Diamond? It just says diamod tip the site. The inside walls of the nozzle would still wear and probably most of the thermal transfer are down with the copper parts?

Nice Sarracenias... Anyway apart from the insanly high flow rates, I don't see the point of these forever nozzles. I started with a E3D V6 based printer many years back, had several nozzles in that, none of any of the fancy material (i.e. not brass) nozzles ever wore out before I moved to a E3D Revo, which recently got jammed up and I wrecked my fancy Obxidian nozzle and heater trying to seperate them, used this as an excuse to get a Bambu A1 which uses yet another nozzle type. I guess what I am saying is tech changes so quickly they don't get a chance to wear out. Check in again with me in around three years time and I will probably be using something else entirely.

Diamondback high flow when please God

Interesting 🤔 would be good for very abrasive filaments

Polycrystalline just means that it is not all one single crystal, but a whole bunch of smaller crystals that grew into each other.

You need to test it with PETG and especially with ironing top layer

just curious if you plan on testing the obxidian nozzles since they are a bit more affordable for the average user.

Does it come in 1,5mm? that would be perfect to print heavily filled fibers containing thermoplastics.

Wow impressive flow rate- it just occurred to me that if you get the nozzle size close to the filament diameter you really don’t really need the filament to melt all through way through… hmmm

ok ok take my money!!

Been wanting a Diamondback Revo nozzle, I know the tip won't wear but I'm afraid I might bend it by accident and I'll have to buy another one... lol

till you get a clog and soften the blass by torching it trying to get the clog out and ruin the nozzle, tungsten carbide nozzle all the way

Is glass filled TPU actually a thing :o

Unfortunately this definitely not a "forever nozzle" the brass will be damaged over time. By filled filaments, nozzle cleaning etc. A full tungsten nozzle will last way longer and may be the real "forever nozzle". If you really want a diamond nozzle, I would recommend the Trianglelab DLC copper one. At least more wear resistent than bradd.

I’m no expert but I don’t think the graph at 2:16 makes sense. Copper and brass are harder than tungsten? I use tungsten tools to cut copper and brass at my job all day.

There's a different brand on Amazon that sells what it claims to be diamond nozzles. If it's actually polycrystal diamond as claimed, it doesn't seem to be manufactured to the same high standard because most of the negative reviews I've seen of it is about how for some people the diamond tip has fallen out of the brass. I wonder if you can abuse genuine Diamondback nozzles until that happens to them as well

I guess I still would by Ender 3, instead of one nozzle tip = ))

Imagine if you really wanted to prove it? you could make a system that would perpetually use the same material over and over. If you put the head up high enough, you had the feed rate proper it would cool in air and then could be taken up to start all over again

When printing manufacturers keep changing the nozzle types the looks, the geometry, how long they are, what thread they have, whether they have threads or not, buying an expensive nozzle to maybe sell that printer and change manufacturers 2 years later is bonkers, when a hardened nozzle will probably last you that two years if not longer depending on how much you print...........

Isn't ruby already good enough?

How can they make almost 69000 bar and keep the prossure under control for artificial diamond making 🤔

What advantage does this have over tungsten carbide? I don’t think 3d filaments have additives that are that hard that would warrant a pcd bit

Love your videos. Curious...are you ever going to make a cameo in one of your videos?

Your captions have in them

Extrusion honing is a thing.. which is what’s happening.

I bet in the future Chinese shops will sell nozzles like this for less with the same or better quality. 🤔

diamondbah

How corosion resitant is diamond? that might be a reason not to use diamond soldering tips.

sadly all multipart nozzles are flawed, they will eventually break apart. or they leak from the seal. full body tungsten carbide (oston, bozzle, deez) is significantly cheaper and while on paper isnt as good as diamond, id go with them anytime. remember theres no real benefit to use harder nozzles unless you are actually printing with abrasives. theres also the Gammamaster that ive seen quite a few people recommend but ive not used it, and the warranty excludes glow in the dark filamen.t the CHT is still the best if you aint using abrasives

Hahahhaaa, love this video and its many many side comments. So just to be clear, the 1mm nozzle has superhigh flow, compared to other nozzles? How much higher?

@2:18 the graph is incorrect - hardness of copper is second only to diamond?? Carbide, ruby, steel should be harder than copper as well

This thing looks amazing... but calling it a nozzle that "lasts forever" (as many people do) is a bit of a false point. the tip will last forever, sure... but the interior MUCH softer brass will get worn away over time, especially when printing CF. it'll last longer than regular brass nozzles... that's about it. you will have AMAZING prints... and then suddenly a catastrophic failure as the tip literally just falls out, or the wall behind the diamond tip just... blasts through as it gets worn thinner and thinner... like those ruby and sapphire tip nozzles. the brass behind the gem tips just get... worn away... Oh, and also, a lot higher risk when doing cold-pulls. I... really don't think they are all that worth it. Because of the brass "body" I physically cannot see them lasting as long as people advertise them to last. atleast when printing abrasives.

Where's my diamond filament?

The nozzle to rule them all. No need for others.

Ofc they put it into a god damn brass body 😒🤦🏻‍♂️

The graph you show at 2:14 is not the correct one. I think it might be the graph for heat conductivity, but definitely not hardness