The Hardest Offwidth Crack in Vedauwoo

The Hardest Offwidth Crack in Vedauwoo - Forever War

Рет қаралды 262,374

12 жыл бұрын

Edelweiss Ropes U.S.A. and Liberty Mountain present Pamela "Shanti" Pack climbing "the hardest offwidth crack" in Vedauwoo, WY...The Forever War 5.13c/d R. Pamela nabbed the first ascent of The Forever War in June of 2012.
"The Forever War is an 85-foot pitch featuring 20 feet of inverted climbing through a steep roof, followed by overhanging arm-bars capped by 30 feet of 5.12a blue-collar groveling. Despite the two bolts, the route still requires a hefty rack." -Pamela "Shanti" Pack
Read Pamela's account of the First Ascent on her blog: pamelashantipack.com/2012/06/15/vedauwoo-wy-pretty-damn-offwidth/

Пікірлер: 121

@superheatsubcool 8 жыл бұрын

Most Hard cores steer away from hard Off widths, because they are such a nightmare and a damn lot of work! Hats off Pamela, Incredible skill level. Thanks to her sponsors for helping such an incredible athlete.

@williamking7765 5 жыл бұрын

Yep the sponsors mostly only care about sport climbers and boulderers. Alex Honnold and Hazel Findlay are among the few famous professional climbers who are brilliant all rounders.

@Soli_Deo_Gloria_. 4 жыл бұрын

Ummm no.

@alextemus 8 жыл бұрын

Incredible! Man, I'm impressed, That is a sweet crack and Pamela just rocks it!

@simonon-music 5 жыл бұрын

Plot twist...what if the cams are normal sized and she is tiny and climbs a hand crack

@LuisGonzalez-qp1tp 5 жыл бұрын

sounds just like reality

@ralphmunn1685 4 жыл бұрын

What if you put down the bong and be amazed at reality?

@iPROxSN1P3x 9 жыл бұрын

Those cams are hilarious

@rustyreynolds4961 11 жыл бұрын

I looked this up after watching wide boyz, I am gonna go check this out as soon as I can. This video is shear inspiration!! This climber knows how to do it.

@halenball-vant1772 2 жыл бұрын

Incredible route! Awesome, aesthetic line

@YnseSchaap 9 жыл бұрын

One word : Ludicrous ! what an epic way to tackle a problem

@devkkev9066 3 жыл бұрын

wow.. what an amazing climb. have a great day!

@Jmotoslowboi 11 жыл бұрын

Fantastic climb. Great job

@torreyintahoe 9 ай бұрын

I used to work for outward bound doing rock camps in vedawoo. I love that place.

@connergiven89 11 жыл бұрын

That invert sounds sick Pam, can't wait to get shown wayyyy up in Moab

@rockclimbdotpro 11 жыл бұрын

Yes, we read an article and that was exactly it, she had a couple of head first falls that could have been way worse where she hit the rock below, hence bolts.

@bighousej316 11 жыл бұрын

JESUS THOSE CAMS ARE HUGE!! What a killer offwidth. And some SICK climbing!

@samsonite813ify 2 жыл бұрын

Vedauwoo is life. Catch me out there every weekend

@bandgeek1321 11 жыл бұрын

Awesome Climb! Its almost comedic how big those CAM's are.

@karsim83 11 жыл бұрын

thanks for the information!

@DanieleNozari 11 жыл бұрын

Wow l'aggancio di gamba mi mancava, favoloso! Wow I missed the attachment of the leg, fabulous!

@DrSher 7 жыл бұрын

Holy cow!! Those cams are huge!

@ralfrussel1950 2 жыл бұрын

"Potential to fall head first onto a flake even on toprope." Still no helmet. Can somebody explain?

@Libertymountainoutdoors 11 жыл бұрын

Pamela says, "I placed a 9" Valley Giant at the lip of the route. It's the Edelweiss Curve Arc 9.8 -- it's my favorite Edelweiss rope! It's light, handles well and is tremendously abrasion resistant. You will love it!"

@nunooliveira49 8 жыл бұрын

awesome line!

@Mattmillerhahaha 11 жыл бұрын

those were some huge cams. good climb!

@evanphillipsak 10 жыл бұрын

What a total badass.

@alexmaness4138 Жыл бұрын

Love it

@robinjones2345 11 жыл бұрын

Nice climb!

@karsim83 11 жыл бұрын

that is a crazy way to climb!

@adventure4lifeRDH 11 жыл бұрын

you are an inspiration to all off-width climbers. I agree with steven, wear a helmet so you can keep climbing.

@alcupone6462 9 жыл бұрын

She is so fearles fighter awesome

@kuhl374 11 жыл бұрын

I dont know why people hate off widths so much. They are so goofy and creative to climb. this lady is my hero!

@TheNamesChrome 11 жыл бұрын

This has the makings of a good climbing video. It had a good beginning (intro to the route and its story), a good middle (killer offwidthing), but no end. Did she send it? Where did the name come from? We could use some resolution.

@cassidythomas1969 10 жыл бұрын

Anyone know the name of the song around 1:40

@TheMamadeira 11 жыл бұрын

Wow! So cool! :O

@isakkane97 11 жыл бұрын

2 questions 1. WHAT SIZE WAS THE BIGGEST CAM YOU HAD?!? 2. is that the edelweiss curve rope?? and if so how is it? i just bought it and have not actually used it on any routes

@grimlund 5 жыл бұрын

It must be the ultimate horror to lead a rout upside down. Holy crap.

@Paulmtb 11 жыл бұрын

Why put bolts in ? Couldnt you use a few cams

@johnnycigar3240 4 жыл бұрын

the crack flares outwards cams wouldn't hold

@terrail959 9 жыл бұрын

What is the second-half song? The internet doesn't seem to know!

@ltisrael 9 жыл бұрын

"Lady Gaga" by Starside Casino

@user-rv8ji5pb5w 8 жыл бұрын

+Kester Alnilam Starside Casino - Lady Gaga

@roblux1 7 жыл бұрын

Darude - Sandstorm

@terrail959 7 жыл бұрын

Oh shucks little late but cheers guys!

@olliojenarter 11 жыл бұрын

This needs to be subtitled for the people who just stumble across it. LOL

@bobbypatton4903 8 жыл бұрын

those cams are nearly artist in a way!

@rushthezeppelin 6 жыл бұрын

Well considering there are only two people (was only one half a year ago) making cams that big in their garages, they really are pieces of art. Look up the newer ones to hit the market, Merlin #8s.

@indigenousphallicsym 8 жыл бұрын

wow surprised to hear a milonga used for music in a climbing video

@cjunk351 11 жыл бұрын

GOD!!! that must have been tough on the camera person

@bkbland1626 5 жыл бұрын

There's a bunch of hard off widths in Vedauwoo. That's kind of the whole place.

@TheNamesChrome 11 жыл бұрын

Yeah, it slows you down... when you slide out of that crack and fall. Not everything is protected by bolt hangers on this route, only that one inverted section.

@steveryan355 11 жыл бұрын

those CAMS DOE!

@northaunt 11 жыл бұрын

dat #6 cams !

@digital-alchemist 8 жыл бұрын

All you need is about $700 or $800 worth of cams, eh? ;) But seriously, that is some hardcore stuff. Nice work.

@arthurski95 9 жыл бұрын

ridiculously big cams !

@dariojoelvazano9295 5 жыл бұрын

i think that she has a infinite cam sistem.o o some thing like that!

@charliedebach4022 6 жыл бұрын

That huge cam that she was using in between crack after she was done narrating, would that even protect you from falling? Does it really make it that stable for you to take 160 lbs dropping 10ft or more? Idk that seems insane, theirs no way that cam could hold her fall..

@rushthezeppelin 6 жыл бұрын

VGs can absolutely take big whippers. They are way over-engineered.

@AlaskaB83 11 жыл бұрын

would be hard to impossible to protect that. Maybe with big bros but that might make doing the climb impossible. Vedauwoo has a pretty strong traditional ethic, so i am sure they wouldnt have been placed if they werent necessary

@mertman1 5 жыл бұрын

Looks like a job for the Wide Boyz

@rikypanellaa 12 жыл бұрын

all that you need is only some good friends!!!!!

@stguitarman99 11 жыл бұрын

dat cam!!! :D

@rustyreynolds4961 11 жыл бұрын

Steve, though your concern is appreciated, she states on her blog, "more often than not I can’t fit in the offwidth with a helmet!" As for the misogynistic (christian paternal undertone) Honey, with love...? Unless you are dating her that is not appropriate. If you care to challenge her ability come on over to laramie and I will give you a ride to the climb so I can laugh as you fall out. This professional climber would put you to shame. Same offer goes to anyone else commenting like this.

@bjaminbjamin 8 жыл бұрын

fkn a. luv it

@nyczumazooma 11 жыл бұрын

I want to know what brand of clothes she is wearing, so I can invest in the company. She must go through ALOT of cloths, pushing that stock through the ROOF!

@climbv15 11 жыл бұрын

It looks like you could climb it safely on just gear. How about hacking the bolts? :)

@GhostofReason 5 жыл бұрын

Okay so Trango is bringing back the massive Big Bro #5 in limited runs once 100 people have preordered and we are at 32 so far. trango.com/p-356-big-bro-5.aspx

@Soli_Deo_Gloria_. 4 жыл бұрын

$300.00 for one 😂 For that price you could buy enough board feet to sow up a 60m fatty.

@Soli_Deo_Gloria_. 4 жыл бұрын

Before tax and shipping 😂😂😂

@JulesBartow 11 жыл бұрын

The cameraman/woman probably rappelled down and is sitting in a comfortable harness. Just a guess.

@bergsteirer 8 жыл бұрын

This lady in a pilates instructor as well, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to book a lesson with her....

@brucegeisert 10 жыл бұрын

WOW. You hit that too the top? Tried with some I-bars,. Biggest Cam I've ever seen.... VW is odd, for Off-with.

@AnonUser2023 9 жыл бұрын

To all the morons complaining because she isn't wearing a helmet. 1) It's her choice. 2) It's not exactly a run out route by the looks of it. Good bolts and bomber cam placements that she can inch up with her as she goes. 3) Wearing a helmet on climbs like this often make it more likely you will fall off as it gets in the way and makes things harder.

@Metamere 9 жыл бұрын

***** Yeah. She actually fell on the climb earlier and injured her kidney, and that's why she added the two bolts. Also, she mentioned in the video that she had to use her head as part of the move to get inverted, which might be tough to do with a helmet on. A couple of years ago I led an off-width climb aptly named "The Hangman" at Devil's Lake, and I couldn't fit my head through a narrow portion because my helmet got stuck. I had to take off the helmet to complete the climb. Either way, a helmet wouldn't have helped much if I had fallen while passing my head through a head-shaped slot in the rock. Still, I was glad I had it on the difficult to protect start of the climb.

@dianakate5808 5 жыл бұрын

I am a climber and a nurse and it is no fun taking care of head injuries. You are the moron. Wear a helmet when leading.

@TheStzzo 11 жыл бұрын

Was that bolted on lead?

@alma_libreix1261 8 жыл бұрын

helmet ??

@rushthezeppelin 6 жыл бұрын

Headjam to get into the invert makes helmet a non-starter.

@peakaweek 12 жыл бұрын

That upside down pivot doesn't look very straightforward to me!

@flyingface 7 жыл бұрын

i broke my skull in Vedauwoo

@charliedebach4022 6 жыл бұрын

jbrunnez that's so sad, how?

@ornerybuddha1 10 жыл бұрын

Super badass climbing! No helmet, seriously!?

@rushthezeppelin 6 жыл бұрын

Would have been impossible to do the headjam to get into the invert with one on. There are quite a few offwidths that make helmets a non-starter. Pretty much any squeeze chimney is going to be like that unless you are a bit tubby or have a freakishly small head.

@willwilson2796 11 жыл бұрын

jeez, such small cams. haha

@johns3106 7 жыл бұрын

Something wrong with bolts next to a crack, no matter how horrendous a flared offwidth it is!

@TzeiTzei11 5 жыл бұрын

Same first thought. I'm in no position to say it's wrong rather than why?

@NoraOMalley 11 жыл бұрын

does anyone else think placing that giant cam would be the hottest thing ever?

@dariojoelvazano9295 5 жыл бұрын

i do!

@Pavuk112 11 жыл бұрын

Arse climbing :)

@karsim83 11 жыл бұрын

that's a lot of gear wont it slow you down

@FabioSpelta 10 жыл бұрын

I can't stop thinking "why the hell isn't she wearing a helmet being upside down like that"?

@bjaminbjamin 10 жыл бұрын

every had your head stuck because of the lip on the helmet... I have! I had to squish my helmet to get myself free

@FabioSpelta 10 жыл бұрын

Yeah, everybody knows how dangerous wearing an helmet is, it should be made illegal.

@okkbiker 10 жыл бұрын

Eben Daggett I think he meant if you fall while being upside down, you will hit your head on the rock first. Not rock fall from above.

@DeathBringer769 9 жыл бұрын

Fabio Spelta Hell, it's the rock climbing world. Be thankful (or not) that she's not free soloing with no protection!

@ryanreese3839 8 жыл бұрын

+Eben Daggett Unless you are free soloing, you are making somebody else go and get help if you get hurt because you weren't wearing a helmet. Climbing is (mostly) a team sport, and not wearing the right equipment puts the team at risk.

@johndtuttle 8 жыл бұрын

Props, but offwidths are one of the most body size dependent of any type of climbing. Therefore, pretty hard to rate.

@chadnhender 11 жыл бұрын

Dafuq did i just watch!!!

@yippeeWYyay 11 жыл бұрын

Nobody needs counseling but you, pal. A badass woman rocks a dirty offwidth, and your response is to condescend? You're not showing "Love and Care" if you're implying that a pro climber isn't smart enough to make her own decisions. And if anybody called me "honey" after rocking an OW like this, I'd kick his butt off the crag!