I’ve been using this method for a long time and discovered that if you don’t wait for the water to go down the funnel all the way after each inversion the top film and top areas don’t get washed properly. This is even obvious when I open up my archived film which smells like fixer! This method can work but once you invert the tank WAIT for the water to drain. It takes quite some time to do so. Even so, how well it works is hard to tell because you will only know after decades by looking at the archival properties or somehow analyzing how clean the surface of the film is. I am continuing to use this method regardless because I don’t want to waste water.

Good to see this method being talked about! It's been a staple in my developing process for years and I've never had any rinse issues.

I have used the Ilford method since I started home developing, and have not noticed any problems with my negs. I followed the instructional video on Ilford's KZfaq channel, which is pretty straightforward. I should say that I use Fotospeed developer and rinse aid, as it's a bit cheaper than Ilford's, and as I say no problems that I have noticed.

I've been wanting to read up on the Ilford rinse but this makes it way easier! Great Video!

Thanks! Been using this method for some time and glad you made this simple and useful video for confirmation it is just fine

You can use a modified version of his flushing method which works better than a 3 minute flush and is probably a better result than the Ilford three agitate/dump method. Use water a bit warmer, around 75 degrees F. Fill the tank, then agitate for 5 seconds every 15 sec. Let it rest for a second minute. The continuous agitation of the Ilford method doesn't do much extra after the first cycle. Do this two or three more times. The idea is to give time for the fixer to soak out of the film, which requires some time, not a fast flush, continuous agitation. Either way, you cannot hold the washed film up to the light and conclude "that's good". To know how complete the wash result, you have to use a test chemical on an end-scrap of the film, which stains to some degree if fixer remains. Two tips to minimize water usage for washing film or paper: (1) Use a non-hardening fixer. This may need some inquiry of the manufacturer. (2) Use a washing aid solution. It's fairly cheap and a little lasts a long time. It significantly reduces your washing time. In the end, if you want to insure a full removal of fixer, you'll have to dig up a chemical test kit, which isn't cheap.

Nice! thank you. I've only used this method since the tap water in my area is quite hard and I buy distilled water for my development and always wondered if the running tap water method was better. Also as a side note, audio was bad, get the mic closer to your mouth and use less de-noise, I'd rather hear some noise than not understand the words you are saying.

Came across with slightly looser (or maybe less formal) production values but got the message across nicely - it's worth noting that another less environmental but very practical reason for using the Ilfowash method is that in a domestic (or field) situation, it doesn't matter what shape your taps are so you don't need to worry about whether the hose is going to fit.. :-)

Golly.. that seemed like far too much wetting agent to me! Patterson tanks used to sell with a nylon spring collar to hold down the single real if the tank size was not fully utilised. Listing I've seen don't seem to include that component these days. Personally I was always taught to wash film for 30mins in running water.. I do however use a similar routine to this with around seven water changes, but stick to a total wash time of around 30mins. My oldest negs film are still stain free after 50 years. Hope the ones I was today last just as long.

I've always done something similar: first fill and drain to remove most of the fixer then 10 20 and finally 40 agitations between fill and drain. My agitations are much more energetic than yours too.

Jonathan, do you use the same reels and tank for developing both B&W and Color, or du you have dedicated B&W and Color equipment?

I did my photography course few years ago in London in 1990s and I did the HND which is a 5 years course and I learned all about black and white photography and developing black and white films 35MM And 120 Roll films and using the Enlarger to make Print from 35 MM negatives or 120mm roll films

Does this apply to color negatives as well?

9:27 ...... Mind, Blown.

To be honest I use similar method, but I just shake the tank really hard-)

Uhhh is that a WATE I spy with my little eye 🔍 Maybe something you are working on?? I'm not suggesting you peaked my interest or anything, buuuuut 👉👈👉👈 is it? 🥺

First ;)