Thank you Keith, the use of your indicator on the tail stock takes a lot out of guess work of adjusting, turning, measuring, & re-adjusting. John

Thanks for the detail on adjusting the chuck. As someone interested in machining but no experience I appreciate the extra information despite the fact that I am sure most people here already know that stuff.

The reason for 2-3/16" is they started with a 2 1/4" nominal shaft and just did a skim pass to clean-up. Since the bearings were cast in place the final dimension wasn't critical. It wasn't like they had to fit high precision roller bearings on it or anything.

No polish needed. Nice!

Thank you Keith , my shop teacher was a North American Aero machinist , 1971 , he taught us well , Downey , CA.

My guess is the bars always started at nominal sizes. The 1/16 undersize is because that is what it took to clean the bars up to something useable. There was no cold rolled back then only hot so you couldn't get a decent round to start with.

Always enjoy seeing these Keith!

Keith's videos makes me regret my misspent youth. I had access to a machine shop with lathes, grinders, presses, even an electroplating facility and I did not seize that opportunity. To be fair to myself I had other issues to deal with. But when I watch Keith turn a shaft I think I could have learned that skill, or I should have. Anyway it's great to watch a skilled craftsman at work. PS I did not know you could adjust the position of the tailstock (if the machine is designed that way) but simply by watching Keith I now understand it is possible and I might be able to do it myself.

It is a pleasure watching and learning as you work. Thank you.

Keith, absolutely fantastic series so far. I have only watched 1-11 but am hooked. I keep running to my lathe, mill etc to learn from what you are saying.

I love your video's. They make me I wish I could justify buying a lathe.

The best way to re-align the tailstock is between centres. That way you are not fighting against the tension imparted by the chuck jaws. You set the part in the centres use a DTI to check along the length of the part and adjust as required, min skim and repeat as necessary. All tailstocks vary depending on the make, but some have locking mechanisms as well as adjusting screws, best to refer to the manual ( if you have one). As a rule of thumb if you see a screw on the back ( or the front) of the tailstock you may need to loosen it before using the adjusting screws and tighten it after adjustment. Good luck.

The details are what makes the difference in a true turning.

Hi Keith, and happy new year. Your videos are excellent - please keep them coming. Along those lines, could you please give an update on the stoker engine. You really had to disembowel that beast and I'm very anxious to see you reassemble it into working order. Tnx.

I was surprised you didn't turn this one between centres. Would have made it a simple thing to pull out and check the fit of the taper without loosing concentricity and also easier to turn over to turn the rest of the shaft and maintain concentricity.

Jobs like these I like to rough everything down to 0.010 to 0.020 over and then do all finish cuts between centers, then everything runs true.

Another great video Keith. I try to indicate off a ground or machined surface wherever possible, as close as possible to the point of interest. When adjusting the tailstock I would have indicated on the shaft, where you measured the difference in diameter.

Good deal Keith! Need are kids to start watching this! Had a shop teacher who took me under his wing in the late 70's!

This bandsaw is going to be BETTER than new! Can't wait to see it coming back together. Love your meticulous, methodical approach; almost a form of worship and a pleasure to watch. Your presentation is also excellent - good pacing, excellent narration and well-thought-out sequences. Thanks for all your hard work Keith - it's appreciated!

Loved the video Keith especially aligning the tail stock I just had to do mine it was ok side to side but was a little low had to shim it.

Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍

Really liking this series Keith. Thanks for the videos.

Thanks for going over all of that in detail. I feel better about 4 jaw chucks and correcting tail stock issues.

Great video Keith, keep'um coming.

Most excellent.

Very interesting 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Great stuff, thanks for showing the tail adjustment.

Perfect enough!

Thank You !

Happy New Year Keith.. great video as always..

Keith, it might be helpful for those who are trying to learn, if you would mention what rpm you use on the different kinds of materials. Love your channel. I’m a machinist of 44 years.

Keith, a bit late, but best wishes for the new year! Man you are making a luxury bandsaw for Jimmy Deresta !

You could use a follow rest.

Love your videos Keith. Happy New Year and glad to see you doing well. Pet the cats, hug the family, and see you in the next video.

Happy New Year Mr. Rucker to you and your family.

Enjoyed thanks for the video.

Keith Happy New Year. Like always you do a nice job explaining your setup.

Keith, thanks for showing the indicating procedure you used. All this time (of viewing various channels), didn't know about taking half. It makes perfect sense, but the way you explained it that bell went pah ping!! on with the episode!!

Nice job 👍

Perfection is a journey not a destination

Happy new year Keith, wouldn't it be better to set the dial indicator at the end of the part to measure the how much the tail stock moves to take out the taper?

Hiya Keith

Smooooooth!

Are you sure that the taper and the cylindrical part are the same axis? On 48 in wheel even a slight angle may cause rather big wobble. I've expected that both barrel and taper will be turned between the same centres.

HAPPY NEW YEAR KEITH, PET THE CATS AND DOGS, SEE YOU NEXT TIME...

Happy New year.

Could it be that they bought the next size up hot rolled steel and turned down to that size? I don't know but suspect they didn't have quite the variety of stock that we are used to these days.

Nice one Keith - it’s been a long since I saw someone adjust a tailstock like that.

Well done Keith I am happy to see I am not the only one when doing long shaft work that needs to adjust the tail stock.

it looks like a great shaft

I was surprised that you put the dial indicator on the tail stock. Normally I put it on the work where I measured the taper. So if it is -0.003 at the very end, that's where I put indicator. Move the tail stock, tighten everything back up. Read the indicator, repeat until I have the right reading. Am I missing something? I am an amateur.

Good demonstration on the taper, and would be necessary for a shaft running in bearings, but for a babbit bearing, the bearing would be poured to match the shaft, so the taper is not an issue.

You may not want to give that saw up when you finish!!!

Should have put the dial indicator on the shaft when adjusting the tail stock.

Why doesn't Keith ever make an undercut for the steady rest?

Would a follow rest have worked in that instance?

The practice of using unusual sizing is something that continues today. It is usually called proprietary so only the company that patented it could produce parts.

Usually when I'm turning a shaft i use the running steady to stop vibration

So just checking the tail stock end by eye is sufficient. Would it be practical to use a dial indicator with the steady rest?

Why wouldn't you check the run out at the other end of the shaft before machining? Are you assuming the stock workpiece is true? I'm no machinist far from it..only a thinking man who ponders, thanks.

Thanks for an entertaining video. Centering the work piece in the 4 jaw is often showed on videos. If the indicator is applied from an angle where where the tightening can be done in the measuring direction that can be done more precisely. Loosening "a little bit" seems to be more difficult. Now and then the "ketchup effect" takes place on my mini lathe.... All or nothing.... Okey, more practise.... Move the tailstock..... Move away, or not...... Haha. Surely more than one machinist has started in the wrong direction but You got right from the beginning. That holder, for the indicator, would be interesting to se more of. How to make one for a mini lathe? The test cut at time 18:40... 20 thou.... Related to the object and the lathe it's likely safe but why not take a cut of 5 or 10 thou? Due to the taper the cut will get deeper and deeper... Some bending of the axle in the middle must occur.

Re: "odd sixteenths": I heard that line shafting is almost always and odd sixteenth. We did a fair amount of line shaft work and found that to be true for us.

Hi Keith. I noticed a realignment jump when you introduced your live centre. This manifested itself in the 3 thousandth" taper which you discovered. Might not an indicator check on the centred end before machining have shown you that the tail stock was slightly out?

Is there any danger in inhaling that smoke?

I wonder, what would you do if you get some chatter on a shaft like this, use the steady rest and split the machining ?

Looked to me as if you adjusted the tail stock the wrong way. Guess I'm missing something. Why did it move away from you when you loosened the set screw on your side?

Just a question. When did europe start using the metric system? Just thinking maybe that had something to do with the weird sizes.

Is this project ever going to be finished? It's been over a year since there have been any videos on this, or the steem engine part that hasn't been finished, or the metal laigh. Are they ever going to be finished?

Dialing in a 4 jaw chuck? Kieth must have watched Adam do it lol 😁👍

Wouldn't this be a part that would be ideal to turn on centers?

Enjoying this work. If not already mentioned, when the LH thread nut is made, maybe stamp it as such?

Back in the day, when that machine was build new, .003 variance over the length of that shaft was about as good as they could do under the pressures of the market to get machines out the door to customers. Today, we not only have the technology to easily do better, we have the time.

Should you not have put the DTI on the end of the workpiece because that is the location that needed to move away from you by 1½ thou?

Possible hypothesis: the standard for a foot could have been different at the time

What is the material of the shaft?

Looks to me like the tailstock was moved in the wrong direction....or it was thicker at the tailstock end.

No keyway on the driving wheel?

Henry Ford liked 32nds

Question. Do they make a collet held laser that would be used to center the tail stock

Really should have dialed the steady rest in before center drilling! ... My math says if the shaft diameter is out .001" on the shaft the 48" Diameter band wheel is going to be out .024" ... ... if your out .005" (likely) the band wheel will be at an angle to shaft at around out an 1/8" Am I wrong?

Why doesn’t anyone use a travelling steady ? I don’t because I haven’t found one yet to fit my lathe. Don’t think I’ve ever seen one used on the main you tube videos. Abom, Rucker and Fenner etc.

16:50..."parallax"(?)

Why is it called Jimmy Diresta?

Another question. One large enjoyable project had the title "New haven planer". This project.... Did Jimmy Diresta design and build this bandsaw?

The more I look at these shafts on the wheels the more I think they just took the axle off a factory hand cart and chopped it in half. That would explain the left and right hand threads where there is no reason in this application..

The 16th shaft size approach was done so the manufacturers could say, "mine is bigger".

*- This seems impressive to me. But I know nothing.* *- There has got to be some issues, right? What say you all here?* *- "How to Repair Broken Crankshaft || Rebuilding a Wrecked Crankshaft || Welding a Broken Crankshaft" ~ The Mechanic* *- **kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rbtyaseGz6yreYE.html*

You need to polish the bearing surfaces. Now you have a “small thread” that is Rubind that bearing… or you want to have clients and repouring that bearing every 3 months 😂😂

You talked of things you didn't understand. I have been grinding tools for over fifty years and I have never could understand why a standard drill point is 118 degrees . 120 degrees is only one degree difference per side. I can't see how a change 120 degrees would make that much a difference. I suppose someone thought it would .

Invent scented cutting oil.