The King of 3D printing materials? Polymaker PolyMax PC REVIEW
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Күн бұрынI finally tested Polymakers PolyMax PC filament for it's printing quality, mechanical performance and impact resistance. Let's find out if it really lives up to it's reputation!
Test samples and methods: / filament-test-16238656
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DISCLAIMER: NONE of these tests were performed with any officially calibrated test equipment. The values presented in this video are for information/entertainment only and will not be comparable to any official tests!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Feel free to share the video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media! I'm currently on holiday in Japan so please excuse if replies to comments might be a little delayed.
@3dgussner958 4 жыл бұрын
Enjoy your trip...
@martinder3199 3 жыл бұрын
Have you made any tests on Polymaker Polylite PC? I think it was called PC-Plus in the past but it looks like they rebranded it. The properties apear to be almost equal but it's 25% cheaper! So the big question is, where is the catch?
@jackbisson9226 2 жыл бұрын
Hi, I was just wondering if you annealed the prints. I see the manufacture recommends heating after the printing of Ploymaker PolyMax PC.
@monkeywrench1951 7 ай бұрын
Wat about annealing Polycarbonate 3D prints ? I've seen a lot of annealing videos, but not really for polycarbonate.
@bkperformance6037 3 жыл бұрын
If you re-humidify I.e. "add water back into the plastic after printing" this should dramatically increase strength. When thermo forming Polycarbonate it is quite common to have to do this after forming to regain the rated impact strength of the material as it is the water content that makes PC so strong.
@Mr.Thermistor7228 Жыл бұрын
This is for real?? Seems so backwards of everything I've learned lol doesn't surprise me tho I guess
@autonomousperson 10 ай бұрын
I couldn't find any info on this, do you have any references?
@autonomousperson 10 ай бұрын
Only nylon needs to be rehydrated, pc should not
@Dude902 9 ай бұрын
Need another source on this.
@tannerbriton9027 8 ай бұрын
I remember this from the yard trimmer video. The nylon cord was hydrated for strength and that package said do not dehydrate it or it would become brittle. That was nylon though, but I could see it for pc too. Are there sources?
@krizo96 4 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see the comparison with the lite version that's almost half-price.
@XiaoMingMC 4 жыл бұрын
well, the cheapest polycarbonate material sold in China is 12 dollars per kilo....I'd buy some and test.
@demonsheadshot8086 4 жыл бұрын
@@XiaoMingMC so did u do it?
@XiaoMingMC 4 жыл бұрын
@@demonsheadshot8086 nope, I do not have an all-metal hot end, unfortunately.
@demonsheadshot8086 4 жыл бұрын
@@XiaoMingMC I want to suggest since you could easily buy it locally there, an all metal heatbrake that you could replace ur ptfe heatbrake with and see if that works? I havent seen anyone try it and all they do is just buy microswiss or e3d hotends.
@dennischertkovsky8871 4 жыл бұрын
I’ve used the lite version (back when it was called PC-Plus), and it is extremely rigid, almost glass-like. Very strong, very very strong layer adhesion, and quite transparent. The downsides are that it is brittle, and will probably cut you if you break a piece in your hands. Also, sticks to my PEI bed far too well, but that’s mostly on me. Warps and lifts if you don’t adhere it well enough. I haven’t tried the Max version yet. I find eSun ePC prints more easily, but it doesn’t have the god-like stiffness, strength, and layer bonding of PC-Plus.
@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi Жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan from Australia, Your videos are a lifesaver. As a new to 3d printing bloke, ive been just buying every single different type of filament i can get my hands on, it was making me broke till i found your informative videos! Thankyou!
@Flame6332 4 жыл бұрын
11:22 "Next, I did the impact test, and there as expected, PC Max outperformed everything, even the really flexible peepee"
@alexdunda 4 жыл бұрын
...a great material for everything that needs to take a beating
@dasjulian3 4 жыл бұрын
He probably knew
@Flame6332 4 жыл бұрын
@@alexdunda Nice
@markusstaden 4 жыл бұрын
I'm glad that I am not the only one :D
@mateng7707 4 жыл бұрын
nice
@marhar2 4 жыл бұрын
I really appreciate the level of technical detail in your channel. I get the high-level view of a particular material, and I learn a little bit about the technical aspects of materials and testing. Thanks!
@kleingarrett55 4 жыл бұрын
Great job! I was thinking of upgrading one of my printers so I could print PC filaments, and you point out I actually probably don't have to, which is amazing. Keep up the great work.
@marcozacarias1675 4 жыл бұрын
I been dying to use my roll of Polymaker PC-Max but haven't found the right application until now and so, I'm extremely thankful that you've provided this video. Happy to be one of your supporters! Absolutely great work!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the support!
@jackytigra 4 жыл бұрын
Another great video! Great to see that you are using the awesome capabilities of the Core scanner! I really appreciate your videos, Keep up the good work.
@iopfarmer 4 жыл бұрын
Very detailed and interesting analyse, as always. thank you for it!
@phil.tsao. 4 жыл бұрын
Your charts made me question my understanding of some material properties - specifically around impact resistance when compared to Nylon. My intuition was that Nylon would have higher impact resistance than ABS, which is not what was shown on your graph. After doing some digging, it does seem to have lower impact resistance. I had mistakenly thought that because Nylon is more tough, the impact resistance would be better, but that's not the case. Thanks for your great videos, and you clarified something for me today 🙂. Also - looks like I need to get my hands on some of this PC, those material properties looks great.
@BRUXXUS 4 жыл бұрын
I hope you had/have a wonderful trip to Japan! One set of testing I would like to see would be testing creep on various 3D printed materials and if there's ways to improve it. I think that could be really fascinating, especially for mechanical parts.
@JohnOCFII 4 жыл бұрын
Excellent tests. I’m soon to start using a PC blend myself. This is very timely.
@ianide2480 4 жыл бұрын
Would be cool to see the comparison to their Light brand as well. Thanks for the video, always good stuff on your channel
@patprop74 4 жыл бұрын
Great testing video, I don't use the polymaker PC brand, but i do print other PC's, i use a garolite sheet on my print bed with the heat at 70C and a hotend temp if 290C and 10% parts cooling for the annealing process, these settings give me the best results.
@patrickweckermann9121 4 жыл бұрын
If only there was a prusaslicer setting to have the fan enabled for the outermost perimeter layer, and disabled for the inner layers and infill. Then you should get a good combo of strength and quality.
@isaaclyonsf1 4 жыл бұрын
That's a brilliant idea, I'm sure it can be done👍
@SalveMonesvol 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, but the outer layer does most of the work, so also no.
@patrickweckermann9121 2 жыл бұрын
@@SalveMonesvol The perimeter layers in general provide most of the strength, so yes you are sacrificing a bit of strength on one of the layers for the sake of print quality. Its all about trade-offs and understanding the consequences of them with the print settings. You can always add an extra perimeter layer to compensate. Better print quality, less cleanup time, potentially less plastic use for support (since you're less likely to need it) and finally, its a relatively easy setting to code in.
@SalveMonesvol 2 жыл бұрын
@@patrickweckermann9121 In that case, just make sure the outer layer is more elastic than the inner layer, thus allowing the inner layers to work befor the outer one cracks. So, no PLA.
@patrickweckermann9121 2 жыл бұрын
Not sure we're talking about the same thing here, but I'll bite. Sure the outermost layer may be more brittle and prone to separation, but at least its in the shape you intended (as are the other layers). You can compensate this for a bit by increasing the temperature of the inner layer(s) so they adhere better. This is far more of an issue with materials like poly-carbonate and PETG in my experience.
@PetterBruland 4 жыл бұрын
I was happy enough with us having a 3 day Labor day weekend here, and then I get this gold nugget for breakfast!! Thank you for a great start to my weekend!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
You're welcome!
@lennartbruggink15 4 жыл бұрын
as always, very interesting and clear video!
@Shadowlogic420 4 жыл бұрын
Just subbed just getting into 3d printing myself, lot of useful info you're putting out, and i like your content. Keep it up.
@cupbowlspoonforkknif 4 жыл бұрын
Cool! Also check out Makers Muse.
@thequietguy7 4 жыл бұрын
I've always had best luck with PC being printed in an enclosure with the cooling fan on 10%, but also with a piece of masking tape covering 2/3 of the cooling fan's intake. This seems to result in strong layer adhesion while still maintaining good print quality. I recently printed some replacement valve cages for a pressure washer and they held up great.
@philipps3ddruck 4 жыл бұрын
Sehr sehr cool. Eine Rolle von PC Max habe ich auch noch da, da bekomme ich gleich Lust wieder mal etwas damit zu drucken :-)
@Juhuuu 4 жыл бұрын
Hobbyking sells some (seemingly) pure polycarbonate filament for around 20 €/kg. It would be interesting so see how that compares to polymax PC and the lite version. I've been printing with the Hobbyking polycarbonate for a while and it does seem really strong, but I have nothing to compare it against. It requires a printing temperature of 295 C, which leads me to believe it is in fact pure PC. I also use an insulated chamber while printing with it. Some kind of a chamber is a must, since without it, the parts would completely warp themselves free from the surface.
@jaistanley 4 жыл бұрын
I agree.. I have both materials (I use PC-Max a LOT) and the hobbyking is indeed a LOT more like other polycarbonates I have seen in the wild.
@HolahkuTaigiTWFormosanDiplomat 3 жыл бұрын
Ok, but you can print this one in 250 !
@Fleche_FPV 4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this test !
@jeanbalcaen1917 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Stephan, I use PC-MAX for mechanical parts and was very interested in this review. Also I read somewhere that PC-MAX need to be annealed 1h at 100°C to achieve it's best mechanical performance, would you consider give it a try later on?
@brotherdust 4 жыл бұрын
Agreed! Please re-visit with recommended anneal settings!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Will do.
@jeanbalcaen1917 4 жыл бұрын
@@CNCKitchen Yesss! Thank you!
@jaistanley 4 жыл бұрын
+1 for this. I am considering buying myself a small fan assisted oven (approx same size as my build volume) so I can take the hot glass build plate out and put it straight in after a print. I'd modify it with an arduino/second had PLC to control the annealing profile. I'd really like to see the affect as I have noticed the material properties seem to really change over time (after the part is printed) and would like to try annealing them to see if this goes away! This material REALLY doesn't 'feel' like other polycarbonates I have printed with. Polymaker clearly modify the material for 3D printing. The MDS says it is 10% 'fillers'. I wonder what they are?? Gypsun, styrene, monomers... I really can't think. It certainly feels more 'gummy' than other polycarbonates and the temperatures are a lot lower.
@xavaloy 4 жыл бұрын
Would there be deformation with annealing this material?
@infernaldaedra 4 жыл бұрын
You should compare the polymaker PC vs pure PC filament.
@jaistanley 4 жыл бұрын
+1.. I'd be very interested too. This material is excellent, but it is VERY different to use than other PC's I have tried. It's certainly a lot easier to print! It feels a lot more 'gummy' as if it is modified with a styrene or something. The MDS says it is 10% 'fillers' but give no clue as to what those are!
@Dzeno2010 4 жыл бұрын
Yeah I think the temperature resistance will also be a bit higher at least. Lower print temp usually also means lower temperature resistance.
@MakenModify 4 жыл бұрын
Great video :D the Gom scanner is really nice, had access to on while I ran the rapid prototyping lab at university. Really great tool but not exactly cheap 😅 but at least the software is free an really good :D
@WernerBeroux 3 жыл бұрын
Awesome tests. It's recommended to use a heated chamber. I wonder how much the layer adhesion and print quality would improve with that.
@pielandre8275 4 жыл бұрын
Great video as always.
@nova3d173 4 жыл бұрын
very detailed review. Great!
@andrewsmith5299 4 жыл бұрын
Wow love this video (and all your videos)! I am fairly new to 3d printing and am interested in learning how to properly dial in my settings for new materials. Do you know of any comprehensive guide that would include calibration of extrusion multiplier, the use of a temperature tower, and other tests I should consider? Have you considered making an in depth video focusing on how you create your slicer profiles? Thanks and keep up the good work!
@laurentthiol 4 жыл бұрын
Super video! Great job
@Mike01Hu 4 жыл бұрын
Another top class video!
@court2379 4 жыл бұрын
So what happens to the 270 with 15% if you bake/anneal it? Can you get the strength back, but still keep the print quality without large shrinkage or distortion?
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Annealing does usually NOT improve layer adhesion of the parts it doesn't fuse the layers back together. I will take a closer look at that in a bit!
@joearchuleta7538 4 жыл бұрын
CNC Kitchen love the videos thanks for sharing!!! I have a print farm and I print with the Polylite PC clear, Polymax PC white and PolyMax PC Black a lot. They all are different with end results, you would think there would not be much of a difference but there is. On my raise 3d I print the Polylite PC clear at 260c with .1 layer height for best strength. IF your print has long bridges never have your layers thinner than .1 mm, too thin and you will get much more layer drooping. First 5 layers no fan. 15% to 20% fan after the first 5 layers, if that does not work no fan. I print the Poly Max PC Black and white at 265c on the Raise for best strength and end results. When I print the Poly Max PC Black and white at 270c it seem to have less flex and it is more brittle. The Black and white are softer to the touch but stronger than the clear. To much fan on wider flat surfaces will cause a warp effect. Printing with a raft will bring less print failers and Increase your print consistency. If your not using a raft use a 2 layer brim with at lease a 5mm gap between your print and brim, and your print quality will increase.
@tim1398 4 жыл бұрын
I tried both PC Max and eSun ePC - I found ePC much easier to work with and produced much cleaner prints, had better bed adhesion, and was less moisture sensitive. It would be interesting to see how it's performance compares.
@Terje338 4 жыл бұрын
One of the best filament test I have seen so far. The only thing you should have tested is print speed. From my test on other filamentet the slow printspeed give mutch storger and more correct printed parts.
@astro7996 4 жыл бұрын
Excellent video, concise, funny at times and very informative. Do you have building videos or info on your DIY testing machines? Thanks!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Yes I do! UTM: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9yeYK1pqMjYqoE.html Impact: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3511769
@shankswrc3509 4 жыл бұрын
You are the best! Do the digital image correlation vídeo. My Master dissertation is on DIC and i use gom correlation software.
@akura2 4 жыл бұрын
I’d like to see you test materials based on print quality... even sacrificing raw strength for the best-looking prints (least layer lines, smoothest finish, highest accuracy)
@riba2233 2 ай бұрын
hi Stefan, really missing your filament review videos! Hope we'll se more :)
@albertobassig 4 жыл бұрын
Hey steffan, nice vid! Will you do a test on some other specialty filaments? Like Nylon X or Markforged's Onyx filament.
@TheAndyroo770 4 жыл бұрын
I'd be very happy to see a comparison between various engineering filaments such as Carbon fill PLA, Graphene enhanced PLA, Diamond enhanced PLA, ApolloX ASA etc. Preferably filaments that print at 250° or less as that is my maximum nozzle temp!
@carloscubas2824 4 жыл бұрын
hello, i would really like to see a slow motion video of your impact test. I suspect that in some amount the broken test sample gets to drag under the weight and that could have some effect in your measurements. Great Video!!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
It actually shouldn't due to the geometry of the hammer (which is conforming to the ISO 180).
@Wernerrrrr 4 жыл бұрын
In depth and quality review
@cncgeneral 4 жыл бұрын
I use GOM equipment at work to inspect metal 3d printed turbine components, being able to get so much information has really changed how we work
@jaistanley 4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this video. PC-Max is still my favourite material. When I print in anything else thesse days I am dissapointed by the materials strength. As per my other comments: I'd really like to see some investigation regarding the reccomended annealing and a comparison against 'pure' polycarbonate materials. The Polymaker MDS states that this material is 10% 'fillers' but don't say what! Perhaps a gypsum, or butadene; maybe styrene. It feels a lot more 'gummy' than other polycarbonates and is a LOT easier to print.
@CalMariner Жыл бұрын
This level of engineering attention is insane, and exactly what I was looking for as an engineer wanting to print decent items at home without shelling $5-10k for a nylon cut printer
@halftonhero 3 жыл бұрын
Great video and very thorough! Have you had a chance to print Prusament's PC blend filament? Anxious to see if the numbers they report are realistic.
@klemenzupancic 3 жыл бұрын
Stefan thank you for your AWESOME content!! How do you remove the glue after the print from powder coated sheet, which I've seen you were using?
@ZeonsZone 2 жыл бұрын
Great video and informative. Having a rough time trying to print the stuff with poor bed adhesion but have a few more tunes to try out. Need to make parts for a voron build so I need the high temp resistance. Would you pick abs or polymax pc for these parts?
@christopherlarime4095 2 жыл бұрын
I know this video is old and I am sure you are very busy but do you have any plans to do another video on PolyMax PC where you anneal it before testing. Really very interested. Thank you for all your great videos and contributions.
@BladeScraper 4 жыл бұрын
I use PC-Plus (slightly different from PolyMax/PC-Max) and it's awesome. Crazy strong and prints very clean. Like CNC Kitchen said make sure you dry it before trying to print and print from a dry box because it's very hygroscopic.
@josiahong5177 3 жыл бұрын
I did some of my own testing with PC-Max and PC-Plus (now PolyLite PC and PolyMax PC) and found it stays dry in open air at like 30% humidity for like 14 days. So it should be okay to print from a normal spool holder.
@MrMegaPussyPlayer 4 жыл бұрын
A website with all test results compiled in one chart would really be handy ... I want to get into 3D printing myself, but only for technical applications ... I already have enough nick nacks as it stands and don't need more crap collecting dust, but I have demand for all sorts of stuff you can't buy but have a use.
@FrodorMov 4 жыл бұрын
oh wow, that GOM software looks super powerful and free !? I'd actually been thinking to PM you about a little project I had going on regarding strain tests with speckle patterns. However, I guess that my project is obsolete now :p
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Sorry ;-)
@diederickb1806 4 жыл бұрын
are all your test result avialable online? i need a strong material and petg with carbon fill seems like a reasonable price/peformance solution for me, but i would love to see a summary of your tests because your methods are consistent.
@askquestionstrythings 4 жыл бұрын
I've read that PC needs to be Annealed to remove residual stresses in the print. I wonder if the 270C at 15% with annealing would have higher strength?
@ginso1 4 ай бұрын
Hello Stefan I like the way you do the tests on the filaments precise but in a way that we can understand...👌 Whatever I d'ont see nobody doing chemical tests to the filaments....I have done an intake manifold for my motorcycle but all the filaments that I printed were weak in temp ( max 100°) or gasoline tolerance. Can you make a video with these tests to see what is stronger? Keep doing your videos you are a reference for us thank you👌
@mariojct1 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan. Didn't the Fiberthree filament on your 09/03/2019 video outperforme this PC? Please explain.
@RobertSzasz 4 жыл бұрын
Perhaps heated chamber + fan would be useful? Instead of room temp air, cooling with warm air instead?
@pajamas720 2 жыл бұрын
Id like to see this tested as well. Ive heard anecdotal evidence that prints improve overal with both an enclosure and some fan cooling but no in depth analysis.
@alkr8633 3 жыл бұрын
a comparison between the polymax PC and the poly lite PC would be awesome
@marcosllorente9031 4 жыл бұрын
Awesome as always. What do you think about Polymaker PoliMide CoPa? It will be interesting how it performs in your tests.
@joearchuleta7538 4 жыл бұрын
The Polymaker PoliMide has a lot of flex, on non solid parts, too much flex In my opinion!
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
I tested it similarly last year: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h8WZYJhouKurnKM.html
@diveflyfish 3 жыл бұрын
Great Video. Do you think it would be possible to print TPU on top of PC max and attain layer adhesion due to similar print temp eg 250? Thank you Stephan.
@DXMediaTV 4 жыл бұрын
Seems you did not heat treat/anneal (per manufacturers recommendation) any of the test pieces.
@jacobelliott5792 4 жыл бұрын
I'd really like to see you do some testing with Carbon Fiber infused materials such as NylonX, Onyx by Markforged, or the CarbonX line by 3DXTech. I know you did a video with the Colorfabb stuff but I didn't think that stuff was very good compared to others.
@micahsa15 3 жыл бұрын
How about Prusament PC blend? Would love to see a review on that
@olafmarzocchi6194 4 жыл бұрын
Do you use fan speed depending on layer print time? Slic3r has the option and it can help with print quality of small layers, while big ones already appear in your video to print nice at 270°C
@drumsmichael 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan! Gave myself a Christmas present by ordering a i3 MK3S+ :) Been binge watching your videos ever since... Great work with proper fundamentals and documentation, as well as properly explained :) Trying to put an order together to possibly print a RC car and looking a different fillaments, when I stumbled across the "Polyterra" fillament. Any chance we'll get a review on that on your channel? Cheers Michael
@CNCKitchen 2 жыл бұрын
Have fun with your MK3! It's a great machine. Haven't tried Polyterra, yet, though I'll put it on my list for this year!
@drumsmichael 2 жыл бұрын
@@CNCKitchen bester Mann! Danke ☺️
@SaulHernandez-vh2rw 4 жыл бұрын
Can you make a video of printing PC on Ender 3 with all metal hot-end, or what are the strongest materials you can print with Ender 3, really like your videos.
@scrook1985 3 жыл бұрын
Would you recommend printing this material with an enclosure? Are there issues with fumes when printing this without an enclosure? What's your experience with part strength & layer adhesion with these sorts of materials on Prusa printers with and without enclosures?
@Side85Winder 4 жыл бұрын
From PC filaments from other manafactures they have been printed at tempatures over ~300* as high as 320*. If you go hotter the fan should become more usable with keeping the part strength. At lower tempatures (sub 300*) the slower printed the better so the plastic had time to melt in the hotend.
@theKashConnoisseur 4 жыл бұрын
If only PolyMax PC was a pure PC filament. I wish they were clearer about it being a blend of polymers (likely a blend of PC and PBT, based on the density and melt temperature) on their site, but you have to hunt down an MSDS for it before they tell you it's only 70-90% PC. FWIW, a true PC filament should require extruder temps around 300c rather than around 260c like Polymakers' stuff.
@infernaldaedra 4 жыл бұрын
It makes sense why they do it they lower the required temperature to make it much more accessible so more people can buy and use their "polycarbonate" blend.
@theKashConnoisseur 4 жыл бұрын
@@infernaldaedra it's definitely easier to print, that's for sure. And waaaay easier to anneal. But it's also not quite as strong. :)
@vojtator 4 жыл бұрын
It would be really nice to see a video comparision of BMG extruder vs common BMG clones (like triangle lab, dotbit, full metal mellow, transparent mellow, etc.). But I guess you have too much work to do it. Nonetheless great video as always!
@mogelzmo 4 жыл бұрын
the full metall ones are realy nice for heeted chamber printers no use as directdrive caus they are to heavy
@EmptyPocketProductions Ай бұрын
Great video, I didn't see you mention printing in an enclosure? Not needed? Thanks
@PlasmaHH 4 жыл бұрын
could we devise a method that melts up already present layers to improve adhesion?
@zaviekucer9859 4 жыл бұрын
Have you investigated injecting something into the infill to increase strength? When the print is complete inject a glue or binder into the voids in the infill?
@4991Ares 4 жыл бұрын
If you want the true king of filaments, try Novamid 1030CF10. Quite expensive, but it has better specs in terms of E-modulus and tensile strength even when tested in the wrong direction. When tested in the right direction (so the carbon fibers do their job), you can expect an E-modulus of almost four times as high as PC (7.5 vs. 2 GPa) and a tensile strength of almost twice as high (110 vs. 60 MPa). I'm interested on seeing a Charpy test on that, though! Edit: print quality may also improve a lot compared to PC, I've seen some amazing prints.
@xaviergreer2072 4 жыл бұрын
So what about this compared to nylon X? As far as strength which would be a better option?
@iansmith642 4 жыл бұрын
I was wondering if this material is better than nylon x for a small combat robot frame. Thanks for any advice.
@nocommentate9017 4 жыл бұрын
It would be interesting if you compared different polycarbonate filaments (3dxtech, protopasta, etc) because they all claim really different numbers, and use different material mixes.
@stevensimpson6208 4 жыл бұрын
Hi Stefan, I built a PID controlled heated enclosure and realize my PETG MK3S Won’t really stand up to high temperatures. Do you think the print quality with this PC is sufficient for MK3S parts?
@brycecroucher9944 4 жыл бұрын
Next, you should do a review of high impact polystyrene filament so we can compare.
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Will do!
@OfficialNetDevil 4 жыл бұрын
Just ordered 9 rolls for the farm, and gonna print a full StormTrooper or Mandalorian Armor. Which would you print? I’m looking into modifying whatever suit I print so it’ll have Rasoberry Pis and Sensors throughout the suit.
@mechadense 4 жыл бұрын
I'd be interested in long term permanent load resillience of this (and other) plastics. I had parts made from natural unpigmented colorfabb PLA-PHA blend (it has a yellowish color and is weakly translucent) unter pernanent high load conditions. Due to its translucency I could see many many micocracks near the surface that had formed without the parts breaking right away. PLA-PHA is actually a good material just not for applications with permanent high loads. Given I have no heated bed I switched to carbon fiber filled PETG (XT-CF20) as only viable seeming option. But this material is completely opaque black with rough surface. So now I can't see if cracks are forming.
@jesondag 4 жыл бұрын
I tried printing parts for my 3d printer with it, and they were really brittle, and every part eventually cracked in half, not even at the layer lines, but even sometimes perpendicular. I reprinted in PETG, and it's held up perfectly. What did I do wrong? I even annealed it. 260C hot end, 100C bed, and 0% fan. I used buildtak, and a raft, and it was super stuck down, no bed lifting.
@infernaldaedra 4 жыл бұрын
How many walls are you using for your part and Infill? 100c on the bed is maybe also a bit overkill for PETG. You say you reprinted in PETG were you using a different material beforehand? If so what type and brand? Typically for decent strength 3 walls or shell perimeters is enough for most prints but I have used up to 5 for stronger parts. Also the part cooling shouldn't cause an issue with PETG you do want the fan off for the first few layers by afterwards go ahead and turn it on. PETG when it is thin is pretty flexible but with solid parts it behaves alot more like glass and can shatter it is actually a incredibly strong filament as it can take alot more abuse before breaking compared to pla.
@AndrewHelgeCox 3 жыл бұрын
When printing white filaments it would be interesting to apply a black wash to make the details pop.
@86abaile 4 жыл бұрын
How does the strength with 15% fan compare to PLA, PETG and ABS?
@marella8366 3 жыл бұрын
Hi where can I find the print for the layeradhesion specimens. The cillinder with half spheres on both ends?
@quantumlotus6033 4 жыл бұрын
When do we get PolyMaker PA-6 GF/CF Industrial filament testing??? :P
@MrStemkilla 4 жыл бұрын
Id like to see its print ability more. is it possible to make large flat prints without warping? compared to PETG, ABS, Nylon. its major competitors
@SefPinney 4 жыл бұрын
Stefan: Wouldn’t it be at 11:12 that the Standing printed Hook fails earlier than 80% expected because the fixture hooks are offset from the perpendicular axis of the failing layers... so the crack would initiate and propagate right to left, rather than engage full layer area at once.
@james10739 3 жыл бұрын
Since the lite is like half the price I think a test of that would be cool
@towtruckaj 3 жыл бұрын
Did you anneal it? They recommend 2 hour anneal at 100c to release part stress
@faxxzc 4 жыл бұрын
Stefan, would you want to check out the strength of Solvay PPSU / Ultem 9085 samples? I can print some if you want
@9001greg 4 жыл бұрын
I thought Nylon was the thing to use for strong prints. Is that not the case? Is it harder to print?
@michaelyoung8857 4 жыл бұрын
Maybe I missed the test but when you tested the impact strength you should test at a variety of temperatures ranging from fairly hot, room temperature and ice cold.
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
I tested cold performance last year: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rZZ6ibunuLmph6c.html Doing that for all materials is too much effort though.
@reelanmchugh8124 2 жыл бұрын
It would be cool to see 5 degree increments due to some printers ( mine maxing out at 265 degrees being the flashforge adventure 4) to see the strength and print quality
@capnthepeafarmer 4 жыл бұрын
I'd love to see a video on the 3D scanner! Looks very cool and useful!
@DavidMulligan 4 жыл бұрын
CNC Kitchen I am curious about the extrusion test model you show at 3:12. Would you mind sharing where you got it or put it? Thanks.
@CNCKitchen 4 жыл бұрын
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695183
@dasy2k1 2 жыл бұрын
The other test I would love to see somone do is a frictional wear test I would love to know what material would make the longest lasting gear for a gearbox that spins for long durations with a reasonably low load
@johngotna3553 3 жыл бұрын
Could you do a review with some carbon fiber PC filament such as Priline carbon fiber PC? The carbon fiber should reduce warping and also increase strength in the x&y.
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