Thank you for properly describing the reason not the attach the swivel to the anchor directly. I have encountered a swivel manufacturer that was unaware of the issue. I have seen an improper installation on a brand new 3 million dollar yacht. I have seen failed swivels, just as you described. The risk & the reasons are real.

Use a short length of chain between the swivel and attach it to the other end of the anchor, then a break-away at the end of the arm

Great advice!!!

It's worth adding that a good strength quality shackle should be used 😊

👍Awesome. So inspirational to see a woman talking about this stuff. I believe my girlie girl self can even do this. Thank you. 🙏💝

You are a superhero

Use a mantis swivel. The shackle is included and part of the design

Great video and wow your well 👌

Are Maillon Rapide quicklinks used in marine applications? If so, then hand tighten and one-quarter turn with a wrench; any more and splitting of the barrel due to over-tightening will happen.

Going to try a swivel for the fist time this season. I am a little nervous about it but I've had more and more problems with kinked up chain and it is a pain in the butt to unwind.

That shackle you are using is undersized,you need next size up and use three links of 10mm chain. All will fit properly and is just what i have on my boat.

I've always avoided using a swivel and so far just a shackle has worked fine for me. I've never trusted the shear strength of the center bolt on a swivel. What is the downside of just using a shackle and not a swivel?

I have never seen the point of anchor swivels. All they do is add a potential point of failure to the anchoring system and provide little to no benefits in return. The fundamental mistake; as you have correctly pointed, is off-axis load will subject the cheeks of the swivel huge loads. So does the much advertised Ultra swivel solve this issue? Nope, it only articulates about 30 degrees, which, while it reduces the problem in everyday use and does not solve it when the chips are really down. Wait, it gets worse: The very ball and socket that allows articulation introduces a potential failure point. And the fact that the swivel shaft-made of stainless and therefore subject to work hardening and is torqued over the bow roller every time the anchor is hauled. Stainless steel is, more than most alloys, subject to strange and difficult-to-predict failures when subjected to repeated high loads. The swivels are restricted from articulating in one plane as part of its automated anchor orientation-on-retrieval feature. A “feature” that may increase the chances that it will be subjected to just the sort of loads I worry about-that's no feature, that’s a bug. Bottom line, I firmly believe that for those who feel they must have a swivel, the only right way to install it is as shown, with a short length of chain between it and the anchor so it is never subjected to an off-axis load. But this does not solve the problem because the shackle can’t be oriented properly.

I have 60 meter of 10mm chain on my delta anchor on a 15 -16 ton colvic Watson 34.6 When I lift anchor my chain twisted making it jump in the anchor winch I’ve just got the same anchor swivel and was going to fit it directly to the anchor though I do some research 1st But now sill thinking 🤔 Do I just put up with the twist in the chain or do I fit it the same as in here ????

So why does the manufacturer recommend doing it the wrong way then?

That shackle is very small. I know it's just a demo, but I'd like to stress you should use a rated shackle, one that's rated above the WSS of your chain. Furthermore, use a stainless shackle only with SS chain (Aisi 316 or better, 318). If your anchor is galvanized, use a galvanized shackle instead. They're stronger than SS shackles. The swivel should also be rated, and checked for cracks every time you hoist the anchor.

Or just don't use shitty designed swivels