Hi there! Thanks so much for reaching out! In short, whether or not you wet the stones depends on which type of stone you use. For Alumina Oxide and Silicon Carbide sharpeners, we recommend using them dry, and cleaning them when enough metal debris has accumulated to interfere with the sharpening process. For the natural Arkansas sharpeners, we recommend using them with honing oil at all times to prevent glazing and/or fracturing. Lastly, for diamond hones, do not use the oil at all. For more detailed information or if you have any other questions for us, please contact us at customerservice@lansky.com ! We hope this helps!

It is possible to re-flaten the stones.

Same here. Still using my late dad's kit.

@@pierredelange4077 me, too.

Do you recommend the deluxe or the diamond ?

@@alextheamethyst5262 I have only used the diamond and it works great.

Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

I have the lansky leather stropping hone, well in fact two with different compounds. Most of the times I don't even have to resharp my blades, just stropping them.

Same stones?

Same here, the only thing new in my original kit is a diamond hone and I had to toss the small bottle of honing oil years ago as age or oil or combination caused it to shatter.

good idea! I cant find anything better than 600 grit around here for sharpening stones.

Same as l sharpen my ski edges. 400 paper and on

@@TheRockerxx69 Jesus where the devil do you ski lol

Pavement

thank you for the advice :)

Try human skin...... Call me hannibal.....😝

Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

@@GABI59042that is true. This is something I’ve experienced personally. What I’ve done is move the clamp and do the knife in sections trying to match everything as close as possible. Not perfect, but not bad.

You just gave me an idea. Band aids

is the clamp as bad as people say?

@@slickman5969 nah

Great suggestion, I've just been dealing with the over-pull issue. I'm defiantly going to implement this.

It's really a matter of preference. You can use the oil on the hone to sharpen with, or use it only after sharpening to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.

You can keep the rod in place best by holding it down with a finger at the back of the clamp, which would hold the rod against the bottom of the slot. Hope that helps!

Hi Lonnie. We do have special instructions for sharpening blades that are longer than 7 inches. You can check them out at this link, then click the instructions tab. Hope that helps! lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/

Thank you very much. Will be getting a Landsky soon.

@@LanskySharpeners why did you remove my comments? Afraid people will know the truth that your product sucks now and you told me to use it dry so I can damage my knives? I'm putting my own review out and people will see the truth.

We're so glad our system is working well for you! If your blade is greater than 7" in length, pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade (so for example if you choose the tip, place the clamp two finger widths away from the tip). Once the clamp is secured, your target sharpening zone is between two finger widths on either side of the clamp. After sharpening this area repeat the process by moving the clamp two fingers away from the edge of the newly sharpened area. For knives over 7 inches we recommend sharpening them in sections of 3-4". You can also use a small piece of tape to mark the edges of the section you're sharpening to minimize overlap. If you need additional assistance or have other questions please reach out to us at customerservice@lansky.com.!

@@LanskySharpeners Thanks! Appreciate the response.

@@andycarrigan1868 You're welcome!

Yea my shrade sharp finger won’t clamp on !!!

Thanks Jani. Stay sharp! :)

Hi , i think this type of sharpening systems are not sharpening a blade on the original angle but on a forced angle and only if the blade is perfectly round with the same radius on the whole lenght of the blade this kind of system will work and i said not this sysytem but all the systems with only a pivot point. If you are not in accord with me, you can make a video to show with the electronic angle meter to show everybody in different spots of the blade it is a different angle and that can damage the blades and messed up your entire angle of the blade because when you haveTHE SAME HEIGHT BUT DIFFERENT DISTANCE, THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND STONE CHANGE, and THATS NOT GOOD FOR THE BLADES. After few sharpening sessions with these kind of systems you will have on a single blade a mutitude of angles that VARY with the shape of the blade, the more curves or chages of a direction of a blade has the more angles you'll have because, LIKE I SAID BEFORE, THE DISTANCE AND ANGLES ARE INVERSELY PROPORTIONAL then as one quantity increases, the other decreases.

Mvp

The type of stone doesn't matter. You can mix and match materials. What matters is the angle and the stones getting finer as you go. Once you start using a stone, the material of the stone you used before doesn't matter. For example, in this video she used the aluma stones and then finished with ceramic.

@@dkingpin74 thank you for the info!

Hi there! Send us an email at customerservice@lansky.com and we'll be happy to help you with this!

Depends on the manufacturer. Some like 20°, others 25°. Mark the edge with a sharpie and while using the fine grit stone, start from the shallowest edge working up in angle until a single pass can cleanly remove the mark. This will give you the exact angle you need to use to sharpen it to factory angle and sharpness. Hope this helps.

@@taimaishu-nao1922 This blew my mind. I NEVER would have thought of this. Thanks

I was wondering the same thing, since I'll be getting the strop as well. Every video I've seen on stropping uses compound, so I'm going to say might as well - can't hurt, esp since you have the controlled angle and no danger of accidentally dulling the blade. I'm going to.

Hi! Thanks for reaching out! Please contact us via email at customerservice@lansky.com and we would love to provide more detailed assistance and feedback.

Hi Phil, for a blade like that we would recommend our Master's Edge or Turn box sharpeners.

I've had the diamond system since the mid 90s. I have sharpened my USMC KABAR, several different brand pocket knives, and even kitchen knives. I have never damaged a single blade. You just need to be deliberate and follow her instructions on how to lock the blade down. As she stated I use a new piece of electrical tape on each side of the clamp for every blade I sharpen. DO NOT REUSE TAPE FROM ONE BLADE TO ANOTHER as blades have different shapes and you could wear out the protection by tearing the used tape. I hope this helps.

@@dkingpin74 thank you for taking the time to respond. In January 2022 I purchased the Deluxe 5 stone system. Very disappointed with the results. Tried a variety of kitchen knives from small 3” blades to 6-7” blades. I’ve done as few as 10 swipes with each stone, from coarse to the ultra fine and the result was dull. Then I tried 30 swipes with each stone-same poor result. Let my stepson borrow it for a few weeks-he didn’t have any better luck. In only one instance did the knife feel sharper than where it started. I even bought screws to replace the big red knob that prevented me from sharpening at the sharpest angle. Also bought the table clamp and the pedestal. Now it sits gathering dust. I’d spent an hour and a half on just one blade-very disappointed 😢

I agree, I never worry about that but if you sharpen a knife for a friend or family member you don't need them complaining that you scratched their knife all up.

Sounds like the fine stones rod was bent or not set properly

Hello. Great question. We don't recommend moving the hone up and down in a sawing type of motion. For best results, your strokes should move diagonally forward (towards the guide hole in the clamp) and along a small section of the blade, using the full length of the hone with each stroke.

Scrolled down and found the answer

Always use oil. The oil prevents the metal to get stuck at the stone. After honing. Wipe off oil.

Just for cleaning once the stones get loaded with metal.

Hi Dean - I checked with customer service and they would need a few more details from you to answer your question correctly. If you'd like to drop them a note at customerservice@lansky.com, they'd be happy to help you out. Thanks.

Too much downward pressure. Let the stone glide across the blade and it will do the work.

Do it, the diamond system is superb. Had mine for over 10 years and it works like it's new.

Many people do like to add diamond hones to increase the speed of sharpening.

It does not matter. As long as the burr is consistent and as long as the burr is completely removed at the end with a strop. The direction of the scratches do not matter.

@@JoseGabriel-dd2up Japanese knife masters ALWAYS sharpen from the tip down. But in the words of Keith Hodges...do whatever DA FUQ you wanna do!

Absolutely! They are meant to be used together.

We actually have a set of hones specifically designed for karambits and other curved blades that will work with your current system. You can check it out here: lansky.com/index.php/products/curved-blade-hone-pack/

Lansky Sharp would this kit that is sold at SouthernGrind.com, be a good choice to sharpen mostly folding pocket knives that are middle to Higher class. Like a Chaves Rendicion 228, or a Zero Tolerance folder? Or would I need to get some extra parts?

Me and all the guys I know who guide big game hunts all use the lansky and get razor sharp edges that last through multiple animals. I’m guessing you aren’t doing something right

Hi Andrei, are you making sure you're cleaning your hones in between sharpening sessions? If they're smoothing out, it sounds like they might be filling with shavings from the knives you've sharpened. Feel free to drop a note to customerservice@lansky.com if you need someone to walk you through the process.

@@LanskySharpeners Thank you. I will try to contact them.

Hello, it sounds like you're looking for the universal mount. Here's a link to it: lansky.com/index.php/products/universal-mount/

Miguel adrian peña santoyo si

Hay tres bases diferentes que se venden por separado, una de aluminio, otra de plástico y una tercera que se sujeta a una mesa mediante un tornillo. Saludos desde España. Las puedes ver aquí lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/

Hi! Sorry to hear you're having some trouble. Are you using a standard clamp or one with a rubber insert? Using the standard clamp without the insert is best for smaller blades. Let us know if you have any further questions!

@@LanskySharpeners Standard clamp. Can't get it to work on a small knife and I have a bettter solution for bigger ones, so I'm sorry to say it has become superfluous.

@@bertushofstra8246 I'm so sorry to hear that! If you'd like to reach out to our customer service department, they would be happy to work with you on this - our email is customerservice@lansky.com.

It's an extra item. Tricks people into buying it because it comes with it. Its a marketing trick I reckon.

I screwed my stand down on my hobby table.

25 degrees for outdoor knives, 20 for everyday use knives

Apply the "tactical " angle

Hi Caleb, yes filet knives can be sharpened with this system. It has four different angles so you can use it on a variety of knives.

Sharpening literally means turning a dull blade into a sharp one. If you do that and end up with something that cuts worse than before than you didn’t sharpen it but rather used your knife as a stone scraper I mean by grinding metal on stone you’ll inevitably going to “use” up your blade. That’s why you hoan your blade on steel until the edge gets brittle -> you put the edge back on with stone -> use blade and hoan until it loses edge again -> repeat until knife is gone. So yeah, it is possible to “over sharpen” but id refer to it as “not sharpening correct”. Imagine cutting back trees every year, is it possible to “over cut”? Not if you know what your doing, but if you have no clue and cut your tree at the root it’s gone lol

If you have the Deluxe 5-stone system, it does not require oil while you're sharpening. Metal filings from the sharpening process will start to get into the hone though, and that's when you'll use the oil to clean it up. If you have a Deluxe DIAMOND system, do not use honing oil as it will clog the pores. Full instructions are available at lansky.com (click the product you have). Your kit should also come with complete instructions. Hope that helps!

@@LanskySharpeners thx

Hi Jon. Our kits include instructions for sharpening knives that are under or over 7". Here's the link to the product page: lansky.com/index.php/products/dlx-5-stone-system/. You can find instructions for sharpening longer knives under the instructions tab.

If blade is greater than 7” in length: Pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade. (For example, if you choose the tip, place the clamp 2 finger widths from away the tip.) When you have the blade secured in the clamp, place your 2 fingers along both sides of the knife clamp. The area covered by your fingers (on both sides of the clamp) is your target sharpening zone. Try not to sharpen outside this zone, as this will change the angle of the hone and result in a poorly sharpened blade. Sharpen your target zone, and with the knife still secured in the clamp, flip the clamp (and knife) over and repeat this process on the other side of the blade. When you are finished with the first zone on both sides of the blade, measure another two-finger width starting at the edge of your freshly-sharpened area, and place the clamp next to your fingers. Sharpen this new target zone as you did the first, roughly using the same number of sharpening strokes. Your use of this method will minimize gaps and overlaps between your target zones, helping to ensure a continuous sharp edge when you are finished. (i found these on the website)

Biggest knife I've Sharpened with this had a 9 or 10 inch blade, and I didn't even have to move it in the clamp.

It really depends on the use , say to shave 17 , 20 is a good sharp knife but don’t last as long as a 25 degree where you would say cut card board all day but it not as sharp as 20 but still cuts cardboard or rope great all day no issues ..... if that makes sense at all

@@dewroc66 I agree. I would use 17 on a filet knife, 20 on a kitchen knife. I would keep the 25 to an everyday pocket knife like you described. Probabble go 30 on a hatchet or machete

It will work but you might have to readjust the knife in the clamp once or twice to make sure you're getting the entire length of the blade. If you like to freehand sharpen, you can also use a bench stone and get excellent results that way.

Sharpen 15 cm at time. Make a mark at the blade with a pen.

Thank you for your question! Unfortunately, we haven't done any testing with ceramic knives, so we don't have any products that we're confident are suitable for use with them at this time.

Actually, you should be moving towards the knife body on both sides.

Their edges (cleavers, axes) usually are too far from the clamp and the hones can't reach them but you can sharpen some big fixed hunting knives and some thin machetes.

@@pericodelospalotes5738 i just went ahead and made a longer guide rod from a more sturdy wire cloth hanger - worked great!

@@pericodelospalotes5738 She mentioned above that you could move the clamp up or down the blade to reach all areas of edge for long knives.

Yes! For knives over 7 inches long, we recommend using our clamp, which includes a rubber insert sold separately from our system. To sharpen larger knives, it's important to work in sections. Please let me know if I can answer any more questions for you!

I agree. If they were threaded that would help alot.

It's really a matter of preference. Some people use the oil on the stone to sharpen with, and others use it only after to remove any metal shavings that collected in the hone during the sharpening process. Just make sure not to use any oil at all if you have a diamond system.

@@LanskySharpeners Very helpful. Thank you.

Hi there! We tested a Case Trapper in our system to better understand your issue, and weren't able to replicate the problem. Could you please share a little more detail? You may also redirect your question to customerservice@lansky.com for more in-depth assistance! Hope this helps!

@@LanskySharpeners could you send a pic of the case trapper in the clamp plz

​@@donniemurley8812 Please send us an email and we'll be more than happy to help you with that!

@Lansky Sharpeners send your email address please

@@donniemurley8812 Sure! You can reach us at customerservice@lansky.com

Technical yes but you will have to move the machete so you can hone different parts of the blade