Oh dear 😅 thanks for the correction! Math was never my strong suit

Here’s the magic formula I came up with up with to match the exact cc’z that was in Ilford’s own processing video : Add the 1 + 12(or any other number) - in this case it’s “lucky” 13. Then divide the total amount by (in this case) 13. And the answer IS (drumroll) ….. 23.076923 cc’z of concentrate into 276.92308 cc’z of H20 = exactly 300 cc’z of working solution.

I think we have a different definition of “a few things” 😅😂

its a bit expensive in the beginning because it requires all that tools but in the long run its worth it if you shoot alot of BW film, and btw you can use a smaller dilution to save more chemicals, i do a 1:14 dilution for ilfold hp5 (43ml of ifosol3 + 557ml of water, for 2 rolls), you just have to wait 5 min more but thats it

@@sharkpyro93 Thanks for the tips!

Where I live, there isn't even anyone around who will develop so I'm having to learn to do it all myself. Seeing the prices, glad I am lol

It's true, IF film labs go out of business, it's their OWN fault for being so greedy, the prices these days are scandalous 🤬

thanks homie!!!

that thing is always on ;)

Or make fancy keychains haha

@@shutterspeed2546 haha 100%!

So do I, using a film retriever

It’s not hard to pop open a 35mm cartridge and cut the leader and thread a reel in a darkroom. Doing roll film with paper backing like 120/220 is a little harder just takes some practice. Ratcheting Patterson reels are easier than metal reels where you pierce the end of the leader then wind.

I'm really glad you like them!!

Eduardo! Let me know how it goes! Thanks man

Thank you so much!!!!

Thanks for watching!! Stoked you like the channel!

Thank you sir!!!

Thanks for saying something dude! That’s a great point!

@@ramseykiefer yeah i really wanted to get this out to everyone since it was the reason I messed up my first film 😭😭😭 It was ecn2 tho and I had to shake for remjet removal... probably not that shaky when doing b/w...

Great to hear!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks so much!

Haha perfect timing!

glad you thought so!

You should try it! you'll have a great time!

Thank you!! ❤️📸🤘🏼

haha thanks for being patient!

Way to be there

I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!

Why would it be blank?

@@Wilkins325 I think it's because there was an error in my developing process. But I'm not sure what that error was.

@@elijahdonnelly2411 don’t give up man. Plenty of people correctly develop film consistently but it takes some getting used to. I would suggest not getting too attached to certain shots while you are still going though the roll, and remember that you will take potentially thousands more photos in your lifetime. If you are documenting life events it doesn’t hurt to snap some pics on your phone too rather than rely on film only.

@@Wilkins325 Thanks :)

I scan with the negative supply 35mm holder and a Sony A9 with a 90mm macro lens.

True, but the remaining halide crystals will slowly become exposed and fade your image away ;)

@@ramseykiefer before fixing, film is opaque, so there is still no image, only latent image. Yes, if you expose film, or just leave it for a long period of time, between development and fixing, the image will fade (actually, the final image will have haze), but you will not see the image without using a fixer.

@@ramseykiefer It's always a pity when someone posts a YT video on technical subjects they do not understand. When exposed film is developed, the developer chemically converts exposed silver halide crystals into oxidized silver metal deposits in the emulsion. The fixer chemically dissolves the undeveloped halide crystals and fully removes it from the emulsion. If done properly, this leaves only the oxidized silver metal deposits in the emulsion to form the image. Incomplete fixing can leave some undeveloped silver halide in the emulsion, and that can chemically cloud the film over time, but it does not "fade your image away". Fixer can also dissolve the silver image forming deposits, but at a vastly slower rate than for silver halide. So, if you properly wash out the fixer, removing its active chemicals from the emulsion, then your silver image should be practically permanent. However, if you leave residual fixer in the emulsion from a poor washing, then its active components will dry in the emulsion and may continue to dissolve the silver image over time, particularly if the film is stored in a poor environment, such as a high humidity. (There is an argument that retaining a tiny amount of fixer in the emulsion can act to preserve the image forming silver - another discussion for another day).

haha there some good ones on there

Haha i appreciate that! Glad you enjoy!

Thanks for watching 🤘🏼

Fingers crossed! Glad you like it!

I did have a thermometer I was using, i got the temperature close and called it a day. By the time i got the chemicals in the Paterson tank I’m sure they were a little off but I’ve found the whole process to be pretty forgiving.

@@ramseykiefer Thank you!

thank you

Thank you Sam 🤘🏼

For printing, you definitely can, but for getting the film on the spool, not unless you are spooling orthochromatic film stock. Most black and white films are panchromatic. If you're looking for Ortho film, it usually indicates it in the name of the film, if you're not sure, you can always check the spectral sensitivity chart.

Do it!! It’s really not that bad!!

​@@ramseykieferMy lab set me up with my stuff today. I'm doing it!

I’d start out with the Ilford film processing starter kit. It’s around 100 dollars and has just about every thing you need, you just need a changing bag or a dark bathroom ;)

To add, I think the cheapest you can get started with is a one-reel Paterson tank , a thermometer, and a monobath developer, like Cinestill's. I have used the monobath in the past and it yielded pretty good results. It has a time release fixer, so it's really hard to mess up your development process (at that stage at least)

haha thanks for noticing! hopefully you liked it ;)

Haha in that case it might be worth the money

Sketchy…😳

Definitely took the watch off when loading the film for real… i should have made that clear. Also with this fixer, it’s at it’s working dilution after it’s initial mix of just water and powder.

What other mistakes did you see?? Please please please share! Always trying to learn more!

Gotta test the flick

You got it boss