The title is assuming none of you manage to beat my 1.1L/100km (please do) also don't forget the video sponsor Henson Shaving! hensonshaving.com/ (Use code automotiveflux for a free pack of 100 blades with your purchase)

With a 40 liter fuel tank you would be changing the oil after about 2 tanks’ worth of driving

11:42, yeah, e-CVT. They DO NOT have a belt like the CVTs you're thinking of. Hybrid CVTs have a generator motor in place of the torque converter and another motor to drive the wheels. They also have a couple of fixed gears for highway driving, and some have them for reverse as well. That's why hybrid CVTs are more efficient. Normal CVTs are actually the worst in terms of efficiency, but because they keep your engine in a more efficient regime, it tends to balance out and give a net positive gain in fuel economy.

11:51 Hybrid CVT's are different than a belt driven CVT, it uses electric motors to change the output speed and therefore the gear ratio for whatever engine you have in there. a Belt driven CVT has mechanical loss due to slipping while changing gear ratios as well as loss through friction required to keep the chain tightly secured. this is why hybrids are so efficient, because it gets the best of both worlds, infinite gear ratios for the engine, and no mechanical loss.

Having a cat will allow you to use the emission optimization in the fuel map, which will massively increase your engine efficiency in this game. High flow three-way is the most efficient

The synchronizer issue is not with the auto clutch, you need to hold the shift button longer. new feature

If you don't size down the stroke you get more efficiency. Keep the bore as small as possible though. :)

"I like fuel efficiency" I don't, install a *leaded fuel afterburner*

I hope Automation/BeamNG will one day do actual aerodynamics simulation

when you go for fuel efficiency you can try low boost turbos like 0.3-0.5bar

you know its a good day when flux uploads

Hey Flux!, I still need to beat your goal of 1.1lkm. I managed to achieve 1.3lkm in the Elisbury update. So my setup is a 1.4l v10, magnesium block, 50mm bore, 71.3 stroke, DOHCX5, ALSI Head, Billet steel crank, titanium conrod, hyper cast pistons, and harmonic damper at .2, 16:1 comp, 0 cam 0 lifter vvt intake 3k rpm, two turbos with smart boost, intercooler set to 1020, standard geo, ball bearing, 30mm exducer 26.3 inducer with a 22 ar at 5.08 psi, the fuel system is Direct Injection Per Cylinder STD MID manifold set to 0, using LNG with -5 timing and a 0 for fuel map, o on the increase emissions control, tubular race dual at 12.7mm high-flow three reverse flowx2. All set to +15. This has given me 77.3hp with a 46.4 Engine efficiency. I used the same sedan body as you: Carbon fiber panels, monocoque chassis carbon fiber, front transverse with MacPherson struts fronts, and pushrods rear. I added a front spoiler and a rear wing set to 0. FWD uses Auto Manual 8 speed, maxed out top gear, maxed out 1st, and spread set to 50 with a 205 limiter. Electric LSD, radials hard long life, 195 front, 225 rear, running 550r18, carbon fiber rims, carbon brake single piston at 160mm front and rear, undertray is flow optimized, no active aero or cooling flaps, cooling flow and brake flow set to 0 also, single-seater, with race interior and no entertainment, manual rack and pinion using tc+abs no safety 1940, weight optimizer set to 100, and standard springs, twin-tube dampers, and passive sway bars. I did a race tune for my suspension, springs to 2.8 and 2.0, damper set to 2.8 and 1.8, with no sway bars, and max ride height at 220mm. All qualities are set to +15 minus the safety quality that will be set to -15. That is my setup! Feel free to roast my setup or improve on it!

Here’s what u can do… use turbos but use very small ones and use smart boost setup. Of course highest quality

Just found your channel loving your videos! Keep it up manee

try to make the most tuneable engine e.g. i6 that comes with 250hp but can make 1000 on stock internals

For the wheels, you should be able reduce width so long as you increase offset so they are flush with the side of thr car. more aerodynamic.

id your evey tryign for efficency, goto the 4 grid view onthe engine, look at the bottom left panel for part efficency, and the bottom right for fuel efficency, you can see the green part expand and contract as you change parts

Cvts are the most efficient transmission if you can specifically rune it to stay at an rpm/load, unfortunately people say that its weird and dont like it so most companys will tune "gears" for their cvts. That being said idk if its the most efficient in game

Good luck if you do try to do a low power/high efficiency showcase! Those things--in combination or separately--seem to get the discord all in a bother... 😁 Another fun video, thanks!

@automotiveflux This is a great challenge, but i would argue what would be even more ridiculous, would bw to have an engine that is as inefficient as physically possible when using full throttle, but the second you step off it can hypermile better than a Prius.

I didn't know the front lip removal would be counted, that's interesting. I wonder if covering the rear arch (like a Honda Insight) would improve it further

You should look into swapping a Mercedes OM606 and a ZF 8-speed trans into your Ram. Using a Turbolamik TCU makes the ZF8 almost as easy to swap as a 4L80. The Mercedes OM606 will almost instantly double your fuel economy, and you can relatively easily build it up to make the same HP and TQ as the Hemi without really losing the fuel economy at cruise speed.

I fuck w this series hard dude

vw did kinda make a xl1 ish car for the mass market the Lupo 3L tdi did 33 km/L if i remember right great car except for the fact they made it with a automated manual gearbox apparently made of paper

My brain: WHAT THE F*CK IS A KILOMETER!

29:20 DE JA VU!!

no reason for XL1 to exist when Prius exists

Nice!! Use a electric or electric variable steering, it helps on the ecconomy. Try MPFI per cylinder, maybe help. VVT should help on fuel ecconomy too. Depends on the engine config, try tweeking VVL RPM to give moore power on higher RPMs, in the game it doesnt change the efficiency of the engine. I Just subscribed now to help you to reach 60K!!

How do you have a different work shop in automation and you make some neet cars

God damn this engine is burning less gas than every European car burning an oil😂

29:24 1cm drift

spawn with broken wheels > drives anyways

I think the only improvement would come from fewer cylinders and more stroke at this point.

Hey, could you do a Pikes Peak spec Semi-Truck? Engine doesn't really matter, but the torque needs to be above 3k and have huge tyres.

i don’t know it anyone else mentioned this but maybe if you gave it more stroke/ more torque it would be better in a city setting

Amazing how these two games advertise to work together, yet there's a lot of non-functional parts from Automation that just get bugged the fuck out when put into BeamNG

Try this with a V16!

you seem to have to some options for engine parts im not seeing in my game, why is that?

Ive gotta try to make a car more efficient

Too bad there’s no cylinder deactivation

First

11:35 This kind of reasoning is highly faulty because you do not know the rationale behind the decisions you are using to support your own conclusion. For example CVTs are highly unreliable and so force more work to be done, which means more after sale revenue for the manufacturer. Is this the reason for their popularity? No way of knowing. Additionally there's another serious problem with it in that those designers having made that decision does not always mean it is the best decision. Ideology, pet projects and things like that exist everywhere which can lead to the wrong decision being made intentionally and on top of that even experts are fallible and so their decision is not automatically correct. A nice realworld example from the automotive sector is the cab-over truck. Cab-over trucks are superior to conventional or "American style" trucks in quite literally every way. But some countries out of tradition or preference have stuck to conventional (mainly US and AU). You often see attempts made to justify it such as "conventional has better cooling/more cabin space/better crash safety/etc." but none of those are actually true and they're part of a dynamic where people will make a decision first and then justify it later.

oil companies are going to dissapear you for this lmao