I've got both the Lie Nielson and Veritas shooting planes. Every time I pickup that LN my wallet cries. Every time I pickup the Veritas my wallet grins. My LN was a little under $500 when I bought it and there's no way I would pay the $650 they're asking for it now. I actually use the Veritas more than the LN because I can change the angle on the tote. Most all of my hand planes are LN and I have 11 of them. Your knowledge of hand tool woodworking should be watched by every inspiring hand tool user. Thanks for your knowledge.

When I depended on my power saws to give me precisely squared ends and edges, I was constantly frustrated…adjusting and readjusting my equipment, and still finding my joinery was imprecise. Then I learned about the shooting board (during Covid lockdown) and everything changed. I have a newfound appreciation for hand tool woodworking. I got rid of my chop saw, and my table saw may be going away soon as well. Like Paul Sellers and yourself, I find myself leaning toward the idea that a good bandsaw is really the only power saw I need. Excellent video quality, by the way.

UNEVEN IRON WEAR. have a thought on the subject of uneven wear on the plane iron. But firstly, may I say that I just recently found your channel and am very impressed. Hope the algorithm starts to work in your favor soon to make all your effort more worthwhile. Right, back to my thoughts on iron wear. Surely, if you were to replace the relatively low-height sacrificial fence with a taller one, then use shimming boards to raise the main deck height, then by occasionally adjusting your working deck height, you could spread the wear on the iron across more of its width…or is that height? Anyway, it’s probably not a new idea (there are so few) but one that occurred to me after your video, which, by the way has wholly inspired me to revisit the current dreadful shooting board mash-up in my ‘shop.

It's so interesting seeing the difference between this and what people like Graham Blackburn and Richard Maguire use.

Fabulous video, thanks.

Outstanding perspective and video

Really nice design for your shooting board. I particularly like the ramp.

Impressive build! You just got a new subscriber. All the best from Norway.

You now have a new subscriber. Very happy to have found your channel!

I just pulled the trigger on this plane literally today! Before I watched your video. Ouch on the price, but can’t wait to use it. I have had the Veritas shooting board in a box for about a year, but the plane was back ordered. Now Lie-Nielsen had theirs finally in stock.

Agree with you, My Venerable Stanley #51 is my fave Plane. I lashed out and got the Veritas Shooting Board, what a game changer! Wish it was available 40 years ago.

I use mine all the time! I've never regretted buying Lie-Nielsen.

I use the bevel up jack rabbet plane for shooting. I made side plates from oak and screwed them to the sides using the fence rod mounts. I can adjust the mouth and the handle will tilt left & right for a donkey ear shooting board.

Nice shooting board, the most used plane in my shop is a old Stanley low angle block plane.

A Stanley #6 is my interim solution. Long enough, heavy, and fairly inexpensive. With a straight blade, it makes a good shooting plane. My #7 jointer has a slight camber which can make shooting tricky. One day I will be able to justify a made to purpose shooting plane.

It’s great to see all the time and care you put on every piece of furniture, jig or fixture you make. I’m curious about how did you slope your shooting board, could you explain it, please?

One awesome shooting board build!!!!

I have been learning how to hand tool woodwork for about 3 years now and never have thought to cut the bevel with a chisel to prevent blowout. I’ve always had to awkwardly skew the piece and chamfer it with the plane… great tip!

it's not necessary that he plane has 90° shoulders to be used on a shooting board, the lateral adjustment compensates if it is not exactly 90.

If the tape allows the plane to glide, what value really is the alum track? And the stainless steel part for that matter too? I liked the detachable part for longer pieces.

You can buy Veritas PM-V11 replacement blade for this shooting plane, it is 2-3/8 wide and just a little bit thinner. Then you will have the best of the two worlds.

I paid $750 for my 51R about a last August from LN a couple months after the price increase from $500, so you got a timely deal! I have the Veritas shooting board with the adjustable Veritas fence, and track. My Track is flat though not sloped. Thanks for posting another excellent episode. The detachable segment is genius!

I like your design of SB. Not being able to see how the Veritas slide is built I would add a small rabbet at bottom to keep plane away from cutting piece if it is not already there. I prefer the Rob Cosman way of back beveling pieces as opposed to using a chisel, but they both would work and takes about the same time. Top notch design though.

Slick shooting board, did you pick up the ramp idea from Matt Estlea, that’s where I first saw it. Idea Makes perfect sense. You’ve taken it to the next level, especially the extended piece for long boards 👍

great ideas

That is a beautiful plane. Not sure it could have been worth $500 much less $750 though. Nice shooting board. Has some excellent features. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂

Awesome video!!!!! Yeah!!! I want to spend money on stock now expensive tools. But sometimes you just have to. Cry once.😢 and get stuff done you need to get done with it. It is what it is.

i love your videos. so many are brash. yours are to the point and calm. I only really commented to say I hate your marking gauge, and highly recommend the newer micro adjust one from veritas.

good video!

...additionally, Rob Cosman just came out with a KZfaq short where he "back chamfers/bevel at the leading edge of the board by holding it askew to the fence and not taking a full through cut. Then he flips over the board and shoots it. This prevents blowout as the plane leaves. Might be clearer to watch his video than my explanation!

Back in jr high, I was taught to chamfer the back of the board with my hand plane by flipping it and holding it at an angle until I got down to my gauge line. Then flip it over and work to that line from the front. No need to switch tools and whatnot. You're a hell of a lot more of a craftsman and more experienced than I am, so I'm curious: do you have a particular reason that you don't use a plane to chamfer the back on the shooting board, or is it just a preference thing? I have a friend that buys pretty much everything Lie-Nielsen and Veritas make, so I've gotten to play around with both shooting planes. I prefer the Veritas. Somehow it felt more stable when I was testing it on some really dense and oddly-grained purple heart. My only guess is the orientation of the mass of the bevel-up blade had a small advantage over the bevel-down blade being a more angled lever. Just my guess. Only tried the Lie-Nielsen that my friend had, so might have been an issue with that particular one. All that said, the Veritas is a very nice piece of kit for a good chunk less money. I can't imagine not being happy with it. Great video as always. Thanks for putting in the work.

I wonder which is your most favorite plane? Do I see Clifton 5-1/2 there, how it is compared with Lie Nielsen?

Yep, I paid $650 for my 51 and never regretted it.

I wonder why your Jointer Plane is low angle. What are the benefits of that?

I may have missed this part, but you complained your old shooting board only used the bottom portion of the plane's blades, was there some kind of fix to this with the new one I missed, or were you just explaining a disadvantage of shooting boards in general? *Im hoping you have a fix i havent thought of.

That veritas track will end up putting groves in the plane, its done it to mine

I absolutely love your channel. FYI, I think your voice is mixed a bit low, especially when you are speaking over background music.

Do you use a donkey ear with this shooting board? Thanks!