I piloted a Harley Sportster drag bike for a couple seasons in the SG/E class on a 10.00 index. Even on a 5" slick with bars it would launch like it was shot out a cannon, pulling a 1.3 60 ft pretty consistently. Fell off on the top end (a 5" stroke doesn't rev out well) however I won more often by way of the other rider breaking out trying to get me on the big end, I was pretty consistent posting numbers right on the break out. My closest to the index was a 10.003, best time ever was 9.87

And this video clocked in at 13:20.....coincidence?? I think not! lol Great content UT, and, as always, thanks for takin' us along...

Object at rest is now an object in motion... Uncle Tony is the physics teacher we all wish we had - teaching with real world examples

Your channel makes me miss the 70s and 80s ( I was a toddler in the 60s ) . I remember going to the local drag races that quit existing on the track and turned into the street . Every stoplight in the city had at least 1 hot rod for every 10 cars on a Friday or Saturday night . I had several friends with hot rods and it was so exciting to race with them in the passenger seat . That's how I feel watching your videos. I'm in the passenger seat from days gone by . Thank You for the flashbacks of my youth .

A good 60 foot time is another gift which keeps on giving - just like compound interest!

I’ve got a 440 duster that does 1.8 60” and runs 8.11, which is really close to those calculations. I’m gonna go play now!

"My Trans Am only recognizes the 600 foot rule, until then its driving on ice"--Burt Reynolds

My 66 Cutlass back in the early 80's I originally had too low a gear at 4:88 for a almost stock 400. I had lightened the car up 900-1,000 lbs and from a 2 grand brake torque it would pull hard off the line thru the 1/8th. It was done after the 1/8 and stopped pulling. I ran it at Byron and Great Lakes a couple times, never remembered any 60 ft talk then. Car pulled much better thru the 1/4 with 3:73's and a set of low profile Mickey Thompsons. Guess my point is that it probably had a better 60 ft with the 4:88's and a better 1/4 with the 3:73's. Best I ran with the 4:88 was a 14:16 et 1/4 mile. Never went back to the track with the 3:73 gear, but it sure felt faster...

Hope you feel better Uncle Tony

I don’t think this is necessarily true for many circumstances. I think that calculator is trying to say that with optimal setup if 2.0 60’ is the best you can do here’s you ET. The same car which had minor traction differences and has 5 time slips and 60’ times that vary by 1 to 2 tenths is not going to have time slips with 1.5 second differences in ET at the 1320 ft mark.

Thank You Tony. I learned something from you that I didn't have a clue of before. What a fascinating performance analysis measuring concept. Drag racing is a new world for me and I am enjoying learning from you. Thank You for sharing your vast depth of details to help us improve!! I raced sailboats for 25 years and we worked on shaving seconds off of tacking, jibing, sail changes, spinnaker hoists and take-downs. Getting the boat to accelerate early and well after those manuevers, etc.. Lots of practice and constantly analyzing our performance. All those shaved seconds can add up to huge leads at the finish line. But with sailboat racing, you want to have as much speed and momentum as you can crossing the starting line right when the gun goes off in order to break away from the pack and get clear air. And NOT be over the line early. Regards, Chuck in Florida

Fascinating... Never would have 'thunk" it would be the blink of an eye. Wild!

I think the 60 foot and 300 are one of the most important to see what your car is doing.

In sprints and hillclimbs in the UK, we measure the 64ft time. The relevance of 64ft is that if you do it in 2 seconds you’ve pulled 1G in acceleration.

Professor Tony should be the name of this channel. Never understood the 60ft time importance in this way as not a drag racer, but enjoy your content.

Had to mention blinking , lol I've started blinking more during this video lol

I stumbled upon Wallace Racing along time ago. All thier calculators are alot of fun.

lol my 1.9 60 foot runs a 10.50 1/4 mile. Turbo fwd got a shitty lauch but when the boost comes on it scoots out the back end and reels em in.

That is the best explanation I have ever heard regarding the value of the 60' and a torque converter change! Thanks a million!

You have to love it when a drag strip gives you your 60foot time but it really is 59 foot time making you think this dragstrip is better than another. Happens all the time.

Even with high hp cars like 1500+HP 60ft is a big sign of what their mph and times are. This place in Texas I think, calvo motorsport builds 1500-3000hp vipers and they have trouble hooking up off the line but the huge torque numbers let them hit 200+ mph in the quarter mile. But just a little slip can make them lose 10-20 mph and up to half a second of time. Impressive to see them pull away from Lamborghinis and Nissan GTRs with AWD and similar HP.

8:05 myguy a 25 buck phone case an screen save would do yea good. I'm brutal on phones and this one is six months olds longest to date,

Not always Tony. I would always be really fast off the line clearly beating a guy I knew with a BB '69 Camaro. I would always have him past half track and he would just keep accelerating, usually passing me at three quarter track. So gearing kept his car slower off the line, but he would out torque me. So I can't see how the 0-60 ft applies when power delivery is not always linear.

they have that calculator listed as "Compute ideal MPH and times at 60', 330', 660' and 1000'." if anyone having trouble finding it.

Thank you Sir

Speed /Mph at the finish line in the 60s 70s was read from the finish line making their trap speed higher. Now they average the speed from two points one before and after the finish line giving a more accurate Mph.

Hey Uncle Tony, I've had my phone since September of 2021, and the screen is still uncracked!!!😆

Thank you for the education. I didn't know any of that.

I'm hoping for a "how to properly select a torque converter" after the last video. Finding the right stall speed is voodoo per cubic inch.

awesome info thanks

Tony, never had anyone explain it quite that way. Better understanding than before. You have the heart of a teacher my friend. Enjoy your life.

Just a thought, nitrous cars usually out 60ft turbo cars, but turbo cars usually dominate nitrous cars full pass?

Poor Tony has a broken phone screen? LOL This video was great

Thanks for the explanation of all this Tony. The whole concept, as you mentioned first up was completely foreign to me. I used to take the car to our "Street drags" back in the early 80s. This was on an official track, and to enter, your car had to be street registered, and supposedly street legal. We only had ET and terminal speed over the 1/4 mile. Anything that could run under 13 seconds was looked at with a sideways glance back then.

"horsepower sells engines, torque wins races".

Hey Tony, Tim here, gotta say, alot depends on alot of variables.......i have the wallace calc......its a good tool, but dif motors/cars react difrently....my '64 Tempest does 1.53 60fts.....my converter launches well, but the 1000' mrk, i believe the fins lay over, as my best et so far has been 11:17....shud be 11:0's, as i ran a 7:06 in the 1/8......just sayin folks shud know the calculators are a tool, and each combo will be difrent......but overall, GREAT vid for the youngbloods......as we've been doin this for a long time

Incredibly important 60 feet facts!

Good video Tony, good info as usual, BUT, to correct you, we don't all have mobile 'phones. I stopped using one three years ago. Best thing I ever did.

Wallace racing calculators are great . 60 ft is where it's at

you want the converter stall speed in the vicinity of the engine's torque peak, not the horsepower peak!

UT: Why don't you ask A.I. about the 60 foot mark...😆

My daily driven big block 68 Camaro put down a best of 2.19 60 ft. But ran a 12.31 at 113.96 m.p.h. Not very efficient was it. Stock convertor, 4.11 gears, and treaded d.o.t stickies!

Mind blown.

There’s an underlying mathematical truth that’s worth understanding. Any acceleration advantage you have pays dividends throughout the rest of the run so it’s valuable to have acceleration advantages as early as possible. If you have a tiny acceleration advantage off the line and the acceleration is equal after that, you’ll have a slight velocity advantage throughout the run. Because the distance you’ve traveled at any time is the area under the velocity curve, the slight velocity advantage throughout the run accumulates into a significantly larger area under the curve toward the end, so the distance you’ve traveled is significantly greater toward the end.

So it occurs to me while listening to this for the first time, I can't help but thinking you've never done a video on old school Manual Transmissions in drag racing that I know of. Am I missing good content somewhere?

Drag racing today is nothing like it was when I was participating in 1974 and 1975. Then the only time that mattered was at the finish and which car was ahead. It doesn't even look fun today.

Personally, I blame the Mopars.

I learned a tenth was a car lengh in a average 12 second car with 100 percent efficiency.

Always knew the 60 was important but I don't think I realized it was that important. Good stuff!

sixty then have car pull , then entire track run. most Shelf cams are desined for torque and street driving. maybe more about 5 gear changes then 3 speed with a 3000 stall to get you qucikly down the quarter mile.

I was not into drag racing in the 70s and 80s I was a roundy round guy

The result of the 60 foot time is very much like picking the angle of aiming a rifle, based on the potential final range of a bullet. Admittedly, very many factors are involved which can not be equated to this analogy, BUT in a power-for-power equation, it STILL MATTERS on that 'aim by projection' scale. The shorter the 60 foot = the steeper the pitch angle, aka the greater acceleration potential. Of course, with all of the many new factors being input into the final equation, its much much more 'fast-and-loose' and not so much of a 'trust the science' as engine tuning goes along... But REGARDLESS of everything ELSE... A shorter 60 TENDS to equal a shorter total E.T. [ASSUMING that EVERY SINGLE, LAST OTHER factor is equal and unchanged]

never been a mopar fan, as a young guy i drag raced, then oval racing. now im old and enjoy road-coarse racing the most, but more then a better lap time or a lower ET i want you to quit smoking so you can make more video's

I am thinking of the old show pinks. when they negotiated car lengths at the start

My 7200lb 2wd utility bed pickup runs a 2.6 to 3.0 60ft. It either spins or bogs. I guess I need more tire to try to hook it. Seems if I hook it though it likes to break axles. Maybe I should just stick to being slow 😢

With all the intense science behind the 60-foot factor, for me after the reaction response has done its duty, 60-foot times say only 1 thing that equates in the big picture. It's how fast can every pound of that car be convinced to from a standstill get up and get moving accelerating down the track. That's everything in an acceleration event. Most think of the Digs strictly as ET's and Trap Speeds but its not its really about acceleration, which is all this Acceleration Junkie cares about.

The problem with slaghammer is it doesn’t have hp. You can put any converter and gears in to get the car to 60 but without hp it’s not gonna matter on the big end. ITs probably making around 350 hp if that. Low compression to much induction isn’t gonna help. I bet if you put a single plain or even a good dual plane it would run better. But I understand your going for a look but it isn’t gonna net you the et’s you want. I believe you said the goal was to go 11s? Yeah I don’t see that happening with a converter and gears but that’s just me. Good Luck

Torque gets you off the line and horsepower over the line. Or torque gets the wheels on an obstacle and horsepower gets you over it.

I totally agree, most important "getting it out of the hole"

No matter what kind of racing it is, racers know that how well you come out of the hole can, and often does win or lose the race. 60' times in drag racing are extremely important but, track and field runners always need to come off the blocks well and, roundy rounders all know that if they don't get off of turn 4 coming to the green, they have their work cut out for them!

Tenths of a second, are, however, rather 'relative' AND, [at the SAME point] engine performance running through its cycle is ALWAYS variable.

Every watch a 4x4 bump an obstacle and not make it. And have to bump it harder and harder? Those few feet means making it or not over an obstacle. Reminds me of my 2 stroke 360 kind of. Catching the power band and riding it out.

If you want a great reaction time, leave on the last yellow!

Interesting.

You deliberately made this video 13:20 long, didn't you?

no squirrels to be found this early

don't think I trust those calculators as much as you chief, the 60' calc would probably tell you a supra in the 7s should be in 15s

So Tony why would they make the track that long than? Cayuga Dragway was a 1/4 mile track.

Where does the nine inch tire rule come in? Or is that no longer a thing.

My 4200 pound Buick Roadmaster with a 2.56 open diff takes forever to get moving. The converter is so bad that it will idle uphill from a dead stop. Not a steep hill, but it's still not good. I would love to make it quicker. But it'll never be a drag car. It would be nice to have a quicker take-off though

Get better 😊

What's the best way to launch a manual transmission car (Mustang)? Rev it and dump the clutch or ease the clutch up?

That calculator is wrong

Oh yeah that a good information 👌

I used to run 2.3 60 ft in my 68 beetle and piss a lot of ppl off

Plan Z!!

1:25 The 60ft is critical because that in the measurable distance to attain the momentum form standing still to picking up speed? Sorry the Edit was I fergot to put in a ?

Easy math anyone can do, for every .1 you drop in the 60’ time returns 1.8x off the 1/4 time. Ex 13.00 1/4 w/ 2.00 60’ New 60’ 1.70: 2.00-1.70= .30 x 1.8= .54 13.00-.54= 12.46

Very well said uncle T💯💪💪💪💪

Every one on the bottom is two on the top ! Quarter mile!

I might have been misinformed but I was told for every 100 Lbs shaved off the vehicle you get a 10th of a second faster ?

Hey Tony. Randomly curious - would a power adder such as a big turbo on an otherwise lowish horsepower engine make any difference of that ET in relationship to a slow 60 foot time? Say, you've got enough tire and traction that a "laggy" turbo allows you to roll out before a large turbo manages to spool under fairly low power, then the boost reaches peak and you can maintain traction? I kinda feel like a lot of the big turbo Honda guys have to deal with this, and I've seen it happen.. Out of the box seems pretty unimpressive, but they still pull off a 9 second quarter pass.. I'm not a drag racer, though I've participated a number of times.. Guessing there's likely a ton of variables to my conundrum?

This is great info for a lot of newcomers great video

UTG concerning drag timing how would you rate the GM 2spd tranny with the Chrys. 904 3spd tranny and would either have a more significant 60ft effect?

You didn't factor in the tortoise and hare equation.

Excellent info.

Tony has a cold. I'm 100% sure he's intelligent enough not to have 'tested' ...

Can anyone help me figure out how fast my car could be if I could get my 60 foot time down? 1.91 60 foot, 5.05 1/16 mile @ 75.4, 1/8 mile 7.63 @ 96.41, 1/4 mile 11.73 @ 120.2 mph. Any way to figure out how fast it would be if I get my 60' to 1.6?

UTG you keep using the term "tight" could you explain in your next video what "tight" is with referring to a torque convertor

When entering the HP #'s in a drag racing calculator, should you use rear wheel HP or Engine HP?

Where is that 🐿

I wonder if it is corona ut

According to the calculator I'd need 1400 hp to get my 3500 dually cummins to run a 11 sec quarter hahaha 😬

Again...truth. Trust this man.

Like you said, the formula works if everything is optimal for the 60 ft time you achieve. If you only have problem with your 60 ft, it does not work. You can use that calculator using your weight and trap speed, and turn that in to what the car should be capable of in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile with the trap speed you have. The too tight converter does not affect the trap speed considerably. According to my real world experience with thing like you are facing, a 0.1 second drop in 60 ft will about double at 1/4 mile. So, your ET in the 1/4 will be about 0.2 seconds better. If you cut the 60 ft from the 2.0 to 1.6 with the right converter, you will run about 0.8 second quicker in the 1/8. or about 0.5 in the 1/8. And the mph should remain about the same. Now, it's your turn to prove I'm wrong in practice.... hope to see it soon.

Why is the channel growing so slow ?

60ft. They used to call this the "Hole Shot"

In NASCAR tenths are the difference between first and middle of the pack....

If your 60 isn't what it needs to be you can't make it up later down track

Did you intentionally make this video 13:20 ??