The filament runout sensor works absolutely perfect, however after power loss recovery the printer destroys the build plate, gains consciousness and connects to the neural net via starlink, then plots to kill all humans. So that's a bit of a downside.

Great summary. Try a different SDcard. That could be the issue with power loss recovery just in case they are still doing a ReadWrite after every layer.

After 3 years with a heavily modified Gen 1 Ender 3, I upgraded to the S1 last week. I am thoroughly impressed after only 4 days of use. I was never able to print ABS very well with my Ender 3, but am already producing ABS prints on the S1 that are darn near flawless.

I love the reverse footage on the contents of the box. That was a nice touch.

Great. Cheers from San Antonio. I just got my 3v2 up and running. Heavily depended on you and chep.

Holy crap that Allen wrench toss at 3:15 was amazing

Great explanation on setting the Z offset! Thank you

looks like they added the spool runout sensor and integrated autoleveling to make a very compelling printer more compelling

I made the mistake of watching some of your videos with my wife. Now I have a honey-do list of 3D printed vases and dragons :) I told her I can't print the super tall items without a new 3D printer...we'll see how that goes :) On the bright side, I received 6 rolls of filament from my wife and mother-in-law for Christmas. But seriously, where can I find or buy the STL for the vase? I just purchased the Reciprocal Vase you highlighted in your Longer LK5 video.

Great video, very thorough and informative. When you tested the thermal runaway safety feature by unplugging the heater cartridge you only confirmed that there was a low temperature alarm, you did not check if the printer shut off power to the heater or if it continued attempting to heat the hot end despite the alarm, that is very important to test. You should confirm with a multimeter that the voltage to the heater is zero after the alarm and also repeat the test by unplugging the thermocouple to simulate a thermocouple failure. Thanks.

*spoiler* you already know this, Bryan and I'm way out of touch w/ the new TFT screen printers & how Marlin behaves on them. If it's Marlin-based and supported, you could always issue something like: M190 S[bed temp you use] G28 G29 P4 M500 M140 S0 M84 Then after G28 in your start code add M420 S1 Z3 to load the last mesh and set it to fade out compensation after 5mm. Leave off Z3 if they didn't compile that option into the firmware.

Two things I see: 1. There appear to be only 4 stepper drivers ... so the Z-screws are not independently controlled. Still cannot sensor-tram the X gantry left and right. 2. The extruder's pancake stepper, a heavy part, is placed far from the mounting point, bringing the center of mass of the assembly forward.

The only reason to turn off the bed heater during probing is to prevent noise from the PWM signal messing with the probe reading. If the probe is reliabe and consistent when heaters are still turned on, then the feature that disables the heaters during probing ought to be disabled. That said, even with the feature enabled, the bed heater should only be off during the brief period while the probe is moving down towards the bed, and not throughout the whole process. So, that seems like a custom modification by Creality.

12:06 The power outage recovery test. (It will never work. Just get a good UPS in place, problem solved.) First. The re-home after power outage is the BIG fail in my opinion of the power out recovery. I did not see it use the print head mounted Z sensor to confirm where the bed is. Maybe it used the Z home switch? Second and I think this is a big point as to why it will never work. Let's assume it does manage to reposition correctly. The project end point is now cold. Probably miss formed. So how is the hot end going to lay down/attach a clean hot strand of filament to a cold end well enough that on the next pass over that,, weld,, will not cause a problem? In my opinion. If you have a power outage during a print, it is best to trash it and start over when the power is back.

The bed cooling problem during ABL can likely be fixed with some GCODE. I was able to do it with my BLTouch on my E3Pro

It’s sounds like it’ll be a neat perfect printer once Jyers is released for it.

The best thing that creality has made it include a direct drive extruder to they printers and the auto bed leveling amazing I'm in love with it.

haven't yet watched the entire vid..... but will Jyers firmawre work with this?

Wow, Ender has some along way. I'm almost tempted to ditch my old Ender 3 but I already have linear rails and a Hemera with a BLtouch setup. This one just looks less janky.

Thank you for the excellent and thorough review! I bought an Ender 3 V2 based on your video when it first came out and I believe I may be upgrading to this one. This has a lot of upgrades that I would love.

Wait 14:38 Wait... Should the Ender 3 V2 be powered by the usb port? I set up octoprint on a Jetson Nano, and it bugged me enough that the Ender's screen wouldn't turn off (read: Screen on, Jetson on, Ender UNPLUGGED) that I compiled a utility to disable usb power ...it could not drive the motors, and threw errors when I tried to heat the bed, but the screen/ dial still operated

Great review... I just purchased a 3 S1 for the same price of a V2 and am soaking up all of the knowledge about that KZfaq has to offer. Thanks for the great content BV3D

I own an Ender-3 that I have made tons of mods to over the last 2+ years. My son owns a v2, and I was really impressed by the stock differences, and we have barely done any mods (all things I already had lying around). I may get one of these.

Is that sd card reader they include for micro SD? Also it's interesting that the list of machines in the slicer already has an Ender-3 S1 PRO !!

Just finished my upgrades on the E3V2 this evening (runout sensor was last) and now you show me the E3S1 with all those upgrades :-))))) Looks very nice and more slick indeed. Nice to see Creality pitches in with a fun moment to get that good humor note in the video with the recovery on power loss routine. Great explanation and video as always Brian. Its videos like this from Chuck, Angus and you to got me addicted to 3d Printers.

First time watching the channel, I really enjoyed it! Looking forward to getting my 3D printer in a couple of weeks.

Awesome video Bryan :) Thanks to you and your previous video I successfully build my Ender 3 V2 a year ago. It still works perfect! With your clear instructions and good video angles you got me into 3d printing. Thank you! :)

Just bought one and your comments and info was very helpful Thank you!!

I recently purchased this 3D printer. Its a a great machine and I'm very happy I did.

Trying to get honest reviews of 3d printers before I buy my first one... this video was immensely helpful, as were some of the comments, especially regarding power loss/recovery. (The comment about using a UPS is brilliant). Your straight-forward explanations and examples along the way were, to one unexperienced with the trials and tribulations of configuring these devices, absolutely perfect and understandable. Super happy that this video all-but-solidifies my choice, but most importantly helped to temper some expectations I had, being a tech geek for the last 35 years but not getting into 3d printing until now. I loved some of the models and filament choices in this video and can see how much I'm going to love getting into this and introducing my pre-teen STEM loving kid to this along with me (and likely a honey-do list of cool things my wife decides she wants as well). Im rambling but again, thank you so So much for this review video, and for what will likely be a lot of hours going through many other videos on your channel.

I had a slight panic then! Only 3 days I watched your 3 V2 unboxing video which made my mind and I ordered 1 2 days ago! Then this pops up on my feed and I hoped I hadn't ordered the wrong one. I was glad to see it mostly just upgrades that could if needed be done to the v2! 👍

After having a CR6SE with the solid mounted bed, I really wish Creality would stay with the solid bed with future printers. I get the knobs are for fine tuning the leveling, but the CR6 does an amazing job at leveling with the solid bed, and both the S1 and the CR6 come with stock ABL. In my opinion, this thing is just a direct drive version of the CR6 with a USB-C port, the old style bed leveling and non-touch screen, for the same price.

Great vid once more! You are so easy to understand. You have helped this newbie lots. Thanks

Ordered one today - my E3V2 has been amazing so really looking forward to this one.

i feel bad for laughing at the power recovery thing. its like it was throwing a tantrum. as for the rest of the issues. The fan noise i think is an issue with all creality printers, there's a reason its listed as an upgrade in a lot of peoples build. Even yours. the temperature is a weird one, particularly the turning off of the bed during leveling. If i didnt already have a v2, and wasnt looking at upgrading to a ratrig soon. Id probably pick one up.

Answered every question I had running through my head Bryan and I think the S1 will become a member of our little Ender family. Great video once again thanks.

I'm looking for a little help. I'm trying to flash my s1 back to stock after removing it from a sonic pad. I've tried all the firmware options from crwality and can't seem to get it flashed. Display is stuck on the splash screen so I can't tell if the board firmware is loading or even working.

Brian another great video as always, I've been waiting for a review on this printer, and I'm really impressed by it. Like you said the over all look of it is pretty cool. I already have the v2 but was wanting to know if it worth doing the upgrades myself or just buying the S1. I may try to sell my V2 and then buy it. Again thanks for the video.

Which would you recommend, the S1 or the Sidewinder X2? Or maybe the new S1 Pro vs SW-X2?

You earned my like with "With further a don't". Excellent? 😂

I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers. Your videos are amazing.

I have 4-5 divots like that in my old E3 flex mat thanks to Marlin's linear advance gcode website last year. I didn't have an advanced end gcode to raise the nozzle several mm before turning the motors off.

have a merry christmas bv3d and happy new year

Been looking for a upgrade/companion for my E3Pro, it's been awesome but there are a few things that I'd like to have, like auto-leveling & a silent mainboard that I'm scared to install on the e3pro. Don't fix what isn't broken I suppose, but another printer to add to the arsenal would definitely be welcome, so this looks like a likely candidate. Thanks for the great review!

Sadly it still has a ptfe tubed hotend. And now it seems harder to upgrade to a genuine v6

If you still have the V2, I would like to see the 2 printers have some sort of print off challenge.

Very nice review, will get my new S1 on tuesday. Looking forward to that :)

Is it worth upgrading from a mostly stock v2 for this? Was planning on selling the v2 and getting an s1 since it has a lot of mods I was going to do anyway

At 16:14, the display shows "Nozzle is too lowperature". They need to change that to "Nozzle temperature is too low" or "Nozzle temperature error".

My main question is will it be compatible with the ender extender 400x400 system?

i have a new ender 3 s1 coming i really enjoy your your video today thanks for making it i learned a lot more about my new 3d printer

Unless I'm missing something, why would you want to set either the bed or the nozzle to 5 Celsius? and again, if your room temp is not 5 C, that won't happen...

Hi, thanks a lot for the nice review and also the previous videos you have made. I was actually about to order the Ender-3 v2 but your video changed my mind and I will order the new S1 instead. I’m totally new in 3D printing and cannot wait to get my first printer. Greetings from Finland and looking forward to see new videos from you.

Can someone tell me what this printer (assembled, with a spool on) measures to? As in, height, width, length. For the life of me, I can't find it. I can find "frame dimensions" but not confident what that does and doesn't include. Thanks in advance!

Would love to see it print some 15 mm miniatures

Based on this video and a couple more like it, I made a decision to took the plunge and bought one today and am on my third print object. I printed the rabbit and handle thingy first and was very pleased with the rabbit, but the bed handle thing was a little rough after I removed the support overburden. I'm currently printing a small box that fills the width and discovered that this printer is very easy to change the z-offset and increase the nozzle temp on the fly, which is a major benefit for a novice like me. I changed filament types after creating the GCODE file and discovered that the silk filament needed 210 degrees as a minimum, which I was able to change using the "Tune" option on the control panel.

Great review as always. Never have been as interested in the ender series machines until seeing this machine. Looks like a great upgrade overall to the ender 3 v2 most in the community love!

anyone know why price on amazon is 40 more than msrp? I dunno much about pergear though, their site says shipping could be weeks?

they have fixed it fully i tried it i have 3 ender3 s1 and a pro all power lost worked fine and i have convert one of my ender 3 s1 to a pro version runs like a dream the new s1 i have a small issue a end stop switch on the bed is rattling creality sending me a new one

Had the same thing happen on my Kywoo tycoon after my surge protector did its job. Fortunately I did not have glass plate on the bed, unfortunately I had just put my new PEI plate on it. Wonder if it's marlin issue?

Not surprised, some of the features like Return on Power Loss never worked for my Ender 3v2 with their firmware, switched to Jyers and the issue's gone. Creality ain't the best with firmware.

Very good review! I pre-ordered an Ender 3 S1 last week and I can't wait for it to ship in the second half of January. It has everything my previous Anycubic Chiron lacks, except the larger build volume.

Thks for the informative video. Just gettin into 3D printing. So many things to learn is a little scary.

Hi, Im curious how does the print quality compares with the Prusa mk3s? Thankyou in advanced

I just bought one of these- they do not come with a z-axis limit switch- although it did come with the mounting hardware. I looked at the instructions and it did not list a z-axis limit switch as the packaged contents.

You see infill on all prints, that's due to Cura. Slice something with Superslicer and it won't show. You can adjust cura to add more distance for the infill from walls. Thanks for the review. For the $$$ I'm better off with V2 with printed direct drive and printed fan shroud, it has more or less the same quality. I don't ever use a touch sensor, Springs and manual mesh are perfectly fine.

Just curious what filament brand/type was used for the test prints (benchy, cat, tree)? Looks like a silk? I've been looking for a PLA with that type of finish on it. Thanks!

Creality needs to step it up and include better springs. The latest firmware is installed, when I have to abort a print job because it's difficult to level this printer with the current springs, the damn bed returns back instead of forward, if you had a print job as high as the Z bar, it's going to rip it clear off the bed. Can you not set a custom home position so this thing returns the bed to the front and raises the Z so you can clean the nozzle? It's a bit tedious having to manually dial the bed forward so you can clean the failed print job then dial the Z up so you can preheat and clean the nozzle. I'm about ready to return it.

Hey man, Great video! I really appreciate the time you have taken to do this in depth review/testing of the printer. I just bought a V2 and was planning to do all the upgrades, but now I am very tempted to just buy the S1. Thanks again & happy holidays ✌

I didn't see an option to PreHeat TPU, only see PreHeat PLA and PreHeat ABS on the Ender 3 S1

What is it with microscopic manuals? Do they really save that much? FANTASTIC review, by the way.

Great Video ... Thanks for sharing ... Merry Christmas .. Stay Safe...

I would like to add to my experience with the Ender 3 S1. Got it on Jan 9th and it no longer will except filament after a jam on Jan 26th. I followed Creality's KZfaq channel for clearing a clog and it did work, but it was a temporary fix, as it seems it will no longer even allow filament to be loaded into the extruder. Its a shame too as I really was loving that printer. But I am probably going to send it back to Amazon as it didnt even last 1 month. Maybe I can exchange it with another one, but it could be a design flaw in their extruder, which means it could happen again. I only have till the 8th to send it back, so about a week left and the printer is dead...... Maybe you could make a video showing how to completely take the new Sprite extruder apart, maybe you'll find an issue or something. Might also help other with that too.

Don't you have to sync the 2 Z axis steppers to the gantry is level first? Before leveling? Surprised you did not go over that.

I'd love to know your recommendation between the Ender 3 S1 and the Longer LK5 Pro for a first time 3d printer purchase.

Just got and ender 3 v2 like 3 months ago and did most of these upgrades. Too bad this was not available earlier. I would have bought it right away

Great job! Answered all my questions about the S1. I have eyeballing the Cr-10 Smart Pro and hoping to see a review soon. I can't get an answer out of Creality about what mainboard is in it. I'd like to think it will be the same components as the S1 slammed in a CR-10 chassis but that seems too simple. I have a highly modified CR-10S and have been struggling with the settings. Never considered trying Creality's slicer and I'll be damned if installing it and trying the CR-10 Smart Pro profile didn't cure 90% of my issues. I'll have to do some digging to see what all the differences are. Now that the CR-10 looks like it will get sorted out, I'll save 300 and just add the Ender S1 to my fleet. Thanks!

What if you try cutting the power by unplugging it instead of using the power switch? A more realistic but possibly important difference.

Great review. Thanx for keeping us informed about the new model 3D printers.

I cannot imagine why they are still using a PTFE lined hotend. Seems like a glaring fault in an otherwise pretty up to date affordableish printer.

20:04 Why do I care about being able to set the nozzle or bed temp to a value lower than ambient temp? What good does it do to set the nozzle or bed to freezing temperatures???

Great explanation of Z-offset Brian!

did you film backwards when presenting the tools?

Eccentric nut, yeah.. I've been called that a few times

That screen reminds me to Jyers firmware. And can you please check is the mainboard fan always ON or on same line as part cooling, like on V2 (I couldn't figure out on footage at 13:57). Thx for nice review.

When you were showing the printers list in the slicer there was an Ender 3 S1 Pro. I wonder what else it has?

my ender 3 s1 won't recognize the sd card that came with the printer... can someone help? thanks

I just got a ender CR6-SE. This looks almost the same but I paid £230 for my CR6, this is like £100 more.

Hey there... As usual, another great video. I was about to buy this, but then I realised it does NOT have an all metal hot end and uses a small PTFE tube in the throat which again I believe, touches the nozzle. Could you please verify this in the interest of the community and confirm if it can be replaced with a capricorn tube for better stability and performance.

Is it *really* 220x220 or did they just leave a buffer around the perimeter? The original Ender 3 can go out to 235x235.

I'm just wondering if the dual Z motors are driven independently or are in some type of splitter like many of the upgrades you can buy for the E3 V2

Does the Jyers Custom Firmware actually already exist for the Ender 3 S1 ❓ And if so where 👀 ❓ I would be very grateful for a tip... 🙂👋🏼

All I want to know is... Do they still have the hotend fan on at all times, or can we finally turn it off between prints!? 😂

Hi Bryan, do you happen to know if the catastrophe regarding resuming after a power failure was ever fixed? I'm pretty turned off on the idea myself. With my ender 3 v2 the sample filament ran out mid print and while I was anticipating it enough to pause and change fillament, the new fillament oozed while the nozzle heated back up, the new fillament didn't extrude properly at first and the oozed glob made a mess. After letting it run for a couple more layers with my fingers crossed, it was clear that print had failed and I had to start again. Up until now I thought that was the worst thing that could happen if a print was interrupted.

in my opinion - Maybe you made a brownout instead of blackout, so the MCU did not boot/reset properly and messed up that recovery. But actually, theres similar bug in Marlin FW(I'm currently running 2.0.7.2, older versions made that too). and if i run some specific gcode for loading filament in my machine, the next gcode(both via USB from octoprint, first gcode either as file or a macro from octo plugin) homes properly and then goes to back left corner and starts rundomly dumping filament and some other weird, potentionally destructive stuff - no other issues. STM32F4.... i think it could be similar problem and i bet its related to UART comms between display and motherboard, or between SD card and motherboard. Or maybe it could be some problem with max extrusion length limit in FW.

Hey Bryan, great review. I've been watching reviews for weeks and narrowed down my first printer between the Artillery Sidewinder x2 that you recently reviewed and this Ender-3 S1. I'm leaning towards the Ender despite the larger build volume of the Sidewinder because of the community around the Ender series... Is it safe to assume that when I want to move to a larger build volume, that there will be after market parts to do so? Any takes on the differences between the extruder and hot end of the Sidewinder x2 vs the "Sprite" extruder on the Ender 3 S1? Thanks!

I just got this printer and it's the first 3d printer I've seen in person much less setup. Your video walked me through everything perfectly and without issues. I've just started printing the bunny so I guess we will see how that turns out. Thank you for the very informative and helpful walkthrough. Now onto to the splicer software. I am very proficient in Autodesk AutoCAD so I'm guessing this will be similar, but I believe the program Fusion 360 is used by some people as a splicer, or at least CAD program. Do you know if I can use that for this machine? If so, what format do I need to save the files as for the printer to be able to read them? Thanks again!

Just needs an all metal hotend and it'll be perfect.

Hey Brian, Hope you see this. Great video as always 💪🏼 With the failure you had, where the nozzle made a decent imprint on the build surface, I still feel it’s a firmware related issue with the BLTouch (CRTouch from my understanding is a rebranded BLTouch) rather then a SD card issue as CHEP suggested (I have tried multiple SD cards, the same even happens if I print over USB, lol). I’ve been having this issue at random intervals on my Ender 3 v2 since installing the BLTouch with the default Creality BLTouch (Marlin) firmware and also the latest Jyers Marlin firmware. This has happened when I home all axes, started a print, after a power failure and even mid print, but never consistently so that I can identify what’s causing it to try and reproduce the issue and send my results off to Creality Support. Luckily I’ve always been around or close to my printer when this has happened and could switch the power off in time before there were any irreversible damages, however I haven’t been so lucky when I recently (as in last week Friday) fitted the wham bam flexible PEX build system 😔 Installed it and was so stoked to start my first print on the brand new build surface. I relevelled the bed, performed ABL (I have the UBL Jyers firmware installed), even double and triple checked my Z Offset to avoid a collision issue and was ready to get printing a small 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube. Started the print, waited for the bed and hotend to heat up again and got distracted, next thing I glance over and my nozzle is pushing the bed so far down the Z motor started skipping steps 😢 I was left with a huge nozzle imprint and a few deep drag/scratch marks on the PEX surface. After a power cycle the printer went back to normal and Ive been printing without any issues, barring the messed up PEX sheet (which I’m struggling to find a replacement sheet in South Africa at the moment as we only have one supplier stocking them. As any South African will tell you, impoting is not an option as parcels mysteriously disappear lol) My biggest concern is seeing you having a similar issue on the S1 as I’ve had with the hotend destroying a build surface it makes me wonder how many other Creality users have had the same issues since fitting a BLTouch to their Enders. If you do manage to find a resolution or permanent solution, I would be very keen to see what you’ve come up with. Keep up the great work

Hi Bryan! I love your videos! I wish this printer came out a year ago before I bought my Ender 3v2 and had to go through so much struggle getting all the upgrades installed. :)