Good idea

100% agree

I highly recommend this technique 👌

If this piece of garbage was sold to me, it would be on the back to China.

Magnet is mandatory, be surprised how much metal they attract, especially from the soft gears, don't ask me how I know.

how do you know? :)

@@yosyp5905 I dissasembled few too late :)

It's the reason they're so cheap - and it's not bad, it just means you have to put in the work. I agree with you.

To make that comment, you obviously haven't watched many (if any) of the videos on this channel.

@@johncoops6897 I agree wholeheartedly. Spoken like someone who has actually been there and done that, anyone can engage in channel watching. Being a fitter and turner from way back, every piece of machinery must be set up, checked, adjusted and commissioned, not only in line with manufacturing guidelines but with accepted workshop practice and (of course) that involves who the equipment is going to be used.

It's also kinda sad you have to accept buying junk, equals allot of effort, time and maybe extra money, waisted. Just to get something working OK. Not good, not perfect. But OK. I know allot of guys have this way of thinking in the hobby segment. I think it's sad we constantly import stuff made super poor, that need a disassembly and check before use. All is accepted because they(most of them) had never used a quality machine, and can see and feel the difference.

@@OmeMachining - it is accepted ONLY because the price of these imports is many times less than a "quality" machine. Is it worth paying 3, 4 or even 5 times the price, rather than doing a bit of work to bring the cheapo import up to reasonable standards? Put another way... if you only have a budget of (say) $2000, can you even buy a "quality machine" for that price? Even if you could, how would the specs and performance compare? In the old days, we had no choice but to buy a high quality machine with correspondingly high price. Now days, we have a wider choice and for many people the price/performance balance of import machines make them a no brainer. Of course, if we actually could get high quality at low price, then we'd all choose that. Unfortunately that simply doesn't exist... especially in lathes, mills, etc. We'd ALL love to have the best of everything, but hardly any of us have the $$ funds to accomodate that desire. 😉

CCE used ISO 68 in the Big Lathe install.

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

"for every import lathe: Don't turn it on, take it apart" Unless the lathe is from Germany or Switzerland. ;)

​@@peterpan7903Or Japan

Nice idea, using studs in stead of bolts... Good thinking, especially with cast iron threaded bores in the chuck... A faint brush of high pressure lubricant and those will sit in there rust free forever essentially...

Glad to hear that it’s good overall. I’m looking at the eofy sales!

Ive heard this before, that any smaller lathe will be full of grit.

Is yours also loud?

Yes still loud, using ISO 68 oil thinking of changing to SAE 30 motor oil.@@NelsonJ1

agree totally. hare and forbes should do a predelivery clean and oil change , At least add a note to the Australian warranty paperwork to make customer aware,.This is just like buying a new car. H and F Sales manager take note

Nah, you have no idea what is the price range of a ``proper`` machine... The same machine, but properly done, with all edges and surfaces and what not refined, honed, softened and so on, whatever the section requires, would be immensely more costly... I will point you to schaublin mini lathes, they are not much larger, no more complex, likely 10x better in material quality, but that notwithstanding, they are a swiss made lathe that outta box is what you imagine this lathe should have been, and what the guy in the replies above me says that it is like buying a new car... Sure, but a new car comes with a hefty price... A new schaublin mini precision lathe is around 20k$... Dont quote me on that, im not sure, but i have seen them used in good condition for 5-10k$, so merely by doubling that, i hope to be near the right tag price, but i could be wrong and they could be even more costly outta factory... The point is, he paid what, 2K for this lathe? Its a wonder he didnt receive raw castings in flasks full of sand for that price... Fitment and precision refinement and finishing of any such machinery are hella time consuming and demand a passionate, skilled worker, which in a few words means high expense... A cnc machine can work these castings in batches, dozens a day, and it needs a single dude to supervise and do what machine wont(haul the castings onto and off the table, once the cnc is done)... That is profitable use of a single worker, but a single worker can fit perfectly a single lathe per day... That, when you are selling potentially hundreds of these, is a waste of money, in the eyes any modern company... Or at least ones that dont have the reputation of a paragon of machining excellence for last century essentially, like schau, yamazaki, deckel and the likes who are still in business even today... Such a company can ask new car money for a new machine, but a no name import(essentially) is in no position to ask for such prices, nor can they afford the cost of excellence of a watchmakers fit... To them, every cent spared is a profit, due to sales margins, but that cant be a mystery to you, not in this day and age where even cars are made in that manner and are junkpiles made to barely outlive the warranty before bolts start snapping and paint starts peeling...

All of this cheap Chinese stuff needs dismantling & cleaning before use. That’s part of why they’re so cheap.

if it were a Mikron i doubt he'd have many things to upgrade tho

You know maintenance is not out to improve anything for you. You want something done right, do it yourself.

I can't imagine buying a lathe without a DRO. Maybe if the lathe was 1:1 imperial or metric without trying to convert with an inaccurate leadscrew etc then I can likely live without it but I don't have the money for that kind of lathe XD.

​ @XxIcedecknightxX DRO is no-brainer on either, especially now when you can buy a kit for like 200$. Who wants to constantly fiddle with backlash on dials?

see episode 1

The ball bearings are certainly looking forward to the concrete. 😂

Lower carbon footprint would be the big plus for me, along with drying up the Swedish elf puppet tears…!👀🧐😎😜🙈 Peace

what you just said has just the right amount of believability that im struggling to decipher if youre fucking around or not. I want to be able to clearly state this is trolling, but I just cant. Nice job

@@userblame632 Every joke has a grain of truth in it. Every Chinese lathe has a mountain of abrasives in the gearbox oil.

​@@userblame632The "more money at the scrapyard" bit tipped me off.

Neat. I’m guessing that scraping and checking against a surface plate, no?

Best of luck with your lathe

God damn... looked like the oil came from a disused KFC. I was surprised at the amount of grinding compound and swarf in the mechanism. Completely disassembled the compound and cleaned it up as it should be. Thanks for the tip and keep em coming ;)

With dials, approach your measurements from the same direction. ( i.e. if you went too far, do a turn back, and repeat from the "proper" direction.) This way the measurements should be more consistent.

Possibly :)

That’ll be on the cards in the future but I don’t have the time to tear it apart at the moment. Wouldn’t surprise me if I replace the bearings anyway

Don’t hate to say it, it was a good thing that you did

The tailstock can be modified a bit to add way wipers to it... One merely needs to make the plate that will hold the oily cloth, and fit them to the tailstock, so that it clears its own path as it goes... Carriage can never really completely deal with tailstock ways, while the tailstock can, just how the carriage can wipe its own ways as it moves... The better option is a complete set of way covers, as those deny the opportunity for chips to even land there in the first place, rendering the way wipers more of an oil reservoir... At least if the wipers arent just a piece of machined plastic but a plate with a piece of bunched up cloth... But yeah... Way covers are the best approach, along with regular cleaning, oiling and maintenance... And the magnet trick is a good one, hell, its used by the car industry, and its not really an indicator of wear as much as wear reduction method, as the more magnetic shit the magnet picks up, the less of it can cause damage to anything else... Tho, my advice for a project is making a small magnetic filter and a system that links the oil outlet and inlet, allowing you to let the thing turn on when the machine finishes work and the oil is warm, thus allowing for better flow and easier filtration of oil before it is pumped back to the gearbox... It can also be used while the machine is running, but i dont think it necessary if the oil is filtered after every use, as lathes and such machines dont really wear out a lot with good lube in the first place, but a mag filter is a great way to remove 98% scum from the oil... And you can make them yourself, and they can be coupled with regular car oil filters which are rated at what? 40 micron particle size, some even less(not great in my book, as anything larger than 1 micron is an offense to me, but its better than nothing, and infinitely faster than 1 micron filters, and gears arent really that sensitive in this usecase)...

Now I realise mine is a little bit bigger but same thing. Engine is covered already and i have some problems with the guides. Also too much vibrations. 160 mm diam chuck

Now an apron that actually taken itself apart though, that could have saved me time :)