A purist who still sees the craft as art & insists on treating it that way is so rare now. Major props sir.

You don't get noise pictures because of high iso but because of the lack of light. Most modern cameras have no problems with Iso 10.000. Getting the exposure right in camera is better than brightening the pic in postprocessing, this will give you more noise. Great video btw !

Tin Man, Thank you for this great educational resource. This is one of the best photography videos I’ve ever seen. Plus, the emotion and humility that you shared really moved me. Wow!

Awesome video and teaching thoroughly enjoyed this one.

Live dangerously for perfection! I must learn all tips from the Master!

New photographer and sub here. I've been really enjoying your perspective and overall approach to photography. I initially shot in M w/ auto iso w/ good results. However with a max aperture of 7.1 my setup struggled in the early hours. I recently switched to full manual and the results are night and day difference. Also photography in general has become more rewarding having chosen the correct setting and nailing the shot w/out the assistance of the camera. Love the content, and your zen vibes... keep up the great work!

Very good video. I learn a lot. What you say makes a lot of sense. Thank you for your valuable information.

your best video to date! nicely done...

Fully agree with your recommendations in the video, I wish Canon had live blinkies. Auto ISO is so annoying.

Superb advice, thanks Tin Man!

Damn this was full of great tips. Thanks Tin Man!

Great video, thank you so much

What an eye-opener and one of the best video around for wild life shots and even street photography under trick lighting conditions. I used Auto ISO with limits on the lowest and highest ISO and lowest shutter speed. After watching this video I'm more mindful of overriding the Auto ISO settings and shutter speed to close in on the desired results. Great Job Tin Man !!!

Great video! Thanks!

Another great video Tin Man! Thanks for such a detailed but simple to comprehend approach to photography in low light conditions. The male lion images are spectacular!

Great stuff Tin Man. I couldn't agree more, and I'm totally manual and do that similar sort of thing with the finger and thumb. I shoot a canon R5 and I hope the new model has Blinkys in it, live Blinkys. I Enjoy your stuff.

Thanks again for some helpful information!

I really loved this video. Thank you

Good stuff! Thanks!

100% Manual mode is the best once you get a hang of it! 🎉

Wow. Amazing video.

I still use Manual with auto ISO, and tweak exposure as and when required, never fails 👍👍

Thanks!

Very good video. I have just started to use exposure compensation. Sometimes I have had a lighter background and a darker subject. I compensate to get the subject brighter. Then I have struggled to find the right balance. Should I keep my background OK, and let the subject be a little too dark, or should I ignore the almost blown out background and only expose for the subject. I guess there is always a balance that needs to be found. Once again, good video.

A lot to learn from this video

Loved this video!

My jaw dropped seeing the pictures you got the settings right. Thanks for the video. Personally, I think the hotel is cursed.

Great video Tim Man......i guess the old KISS theory still applies we just tend to look beyond it in search of a magical in camera setting instead.

I learned about the Zebra mode from Art Morris. Unfortunately only Sony has it available for photography.

I prefer manual and auto iso in these situations. High Iso is not a problem on my camera. And you can always over-or underexpose.

I love this combination of index finger for speed and thumb controlling the ISO...you just need to believe ... it works ! 😀 ( shooting canon R3 )

Tons of useful knowledge, even for experienced photographers. Thank you!

Great video Tim man , I use a Sony A1 were do you have your sensitive set on you zebra. Are you using back button for focusing!

Hi Tin Man, great video, very informative, some useful tips! Quick question, do you always use matrix/evaluative metering when shooting in full manual as described in your video above, or do you sometimes use other methods such as spot metering? Thanks, Ed.

Cool cool🎉Thank You

You have a good algorithm there. Anyway, one should be aware that real exposure is controlled only with shutter speed and aperture, whereas ISO is amplification after the capture. Since most Sony cameras are "ISO invariant", one can get almost as good result by amplifying in post processing as by amplifying in camera by increasing ISO. But again, your algorithm is just fine, and I like it.

I love that shot of the raven,

Need to test that! If you set iso back wheel and shutter front, where you setup your aperture to be the most efficient?

Bro you're killing me

You should have 10 cameras set up with different settings on each one, then you won't keep missing the shots! I'm a beginner and I typically get the shot. Lol

I learned to avoid ETTR.... my best shot yet was done in very poor light with a F6.3 lens (Sigma 150-600), even at F8 to increase DoF for a subject at about MFD. Because i exposed to the right to increase details in the mainly darker areas, i overexposed a small part of the birds head into oblivion. The DR of my APS-C Canon is limited anyways, but at ISO 16.000 its notable less and that fact i forgot or had no time to care about in this moment. I would rather go to a high ISO like 25.600 than going ETTR mainly. In fact my Auto ISO limit in my wildlife setting is now ISO 25.600. ISO 16.000 look as bad since its a half step so i rather do a regular (auto) exposed image at a higher ISO. Same goes for lets say ISO 8000 in auto ISO.... ISO 6400 is the better pick or straight to 12800 with a higher shutter speed. The thing is, at least when it comes to my hobbyists wildlife photography in the local area, i have some annoying compromises to make regarding the shooting itself - As said, my R7 is pretty limited in DR, add to that mainly "slow" lenses such as F6.3 usable sharp at F8 or my 800mm F11 Canon lens. In Dusk or Dawn i often have to rely on manual focus and with much luck some lit up focus peaking dots on the screen or EVF, under not so good light AF struggles also on both lenses. The 800 F11 is pretty much handheld only used and nice for it, the Sigma 150-600 is bulky, has bad stabiliser and for video a tripod is a must have. So i either pick ultra range, low weight and good stabiliser or more light but heavy and "no" stabiliser. The exposure diagram i use mainly to check if my manual settings with Auto ISO match what i want/need, and change exposure compensation according to that. Rarely when i know its poor light i even go to manual ISO 25.600 since i know the camera would need it anyways and go as high as i can with shutter speed, typically its like 1/60 to 1/250 about, with much luck 1/500. Since i have only 2 dials on the R7 my main settings i choose are shutter speed and aperture, exposure compensation is on a button press via one of the dials.

Could you do an episode for us on photography at night, because it is very difficult and what do we need? Thank you. I learned a lot from you

I did exactly the same mistake in Costa Rica on red macaws …the most beautiful shots 100 odd … if in focus ..got 2 mediocre by luck on 1dx mkii

Haha no worries 😊

Assuming that your lens (and possibly camera) has stabilization, will you turn it off when your shutter speed is really high like 1/1000 or 1/2000? Basically, at what point do you turn off the stabilization? Or never turn it off?

I loved your video. When you talk about the zebras, do they show up in the viewfinder like the histogram or do you have take a photo and view them on the taken photo? On my Canon, I can see the histogram in my viewfinder before I take the photo, but to see the blinkies, I have to take the photo and then review it to see the blinkies.

Great video 👏🏾 but what do we need the hdmi cable for?🤔

Tin man, thanks for the video, but my question is when you are in a hurry how to get this right. When I shoot landscapes, I have all the time to ETTR, but when an animal is walking towards you, doing all that takes so much practise I guess. Cheers man, I love your videos.

This is a great story. Thnx. Question. While in manual mode, the EV on my Canon mirrorless doesn't do a thing no matter what is set to. Is this normal?

Learned a lot by just one video ! I can relate with this video very well... I experience it myself. Went on capture tigers all the way from New Zealand to India. Early morning safari, Tiger was walking head-on towards us and it was a dream shot with little sun rays coming from the canopy - mesmerising movement. I was shooting on Canon R5 in Manual with Auto ISO and guess what - majority of the photos are too noisy and not as sharp. I wish I knew this before I had gone for Tiger Safari to India. Thanks a lot for explaining such a simple and most important shooting technique.

Thank you for the humility of revealing your secrets. I experienced a similar process and I am in manual mode since it is the only way to feel and handle that I take the photo and not the camera. congratulations on your work and the success you have Sorry for the bad English, it is not my native language.

Great video ,but i do'nt like the music,you are one of the best,but the music is to much for you like a pro Photograher .