I studied with Joe Allard for 10 years. He was a wizard with the reed knife. It took me many years and ruined many reeds before I was good with my reed knife. Also, I agree he never had me adjust the top of the reed with the paper. Joe would change directions as he rotated the reed on the paper (sometimes he just used what ever method book or solo I was studying at the time. I remember clearly his reed station by the window in his Carnegie Hall studio. I started with him when he was on 50th and 6th ave. across the street from Radio City Music Hall, also studied at his home in Tenafly.

I have an older reed geek. I tend to use it on older or 'dead' reeds to get a few more days our of em. But I tend not to use it on new reeds. I also need to pick up a new reed geek. mine is a little dull.

thank you. I'm a little slow on 'content'. Thanks for staying on board.

Hello everyone! Say, can anyone tell me what are the exact dimensions of the glass he's using for his work space? I'm trying to find something similar with the kind of glass he's using w/his reeds. Also, what type of glass did he say this was? I couldn't understand him clearly

the trash can method can work well for sure!! lol.

@@saxophonegeeks hey bro good day,can you tell me how to get in touch with you via email,thank you.

no doubt. It's not so bad in person.

absolutely. It was either that or a Rubank Intermediate. Lol.

@@saxophonegeeksDUDE! I have this book too! I'm learning K.C. Blues atm, pg. 20

Oof

nice. I'll try that too. thanks.

and I wouldn't use sand paper for this. you don't want the abrasive sand imbedded in your reeds grinding down your mouthpiece.

@@saxophonegeeks that's a very good point, hadn't thought of that. but the internet is filled with reed players using sand paper. sigh. gimme a high powered microscope and i'll settle this debate! lol

@@interwebzful lol.

saxefoner it makes the reed flat against the mouthpiece so less air escapes and it performs better

You're doing VERY little sanding, which is what you need from a new reed, helping it stay flat and blocking the fibers so that it won't get waterlogged easily. It will become shiny and smooth. From my experience it will help a new reed play easier from the start, so the break-in process will be much shorter. Think about the reed, which was in its natural state in the woods, then by manufacturing your turn it into this sax reed. You'll want to slowly break it in. If you do that by immersing it in water for extended periods of time, it'll get waterlogged/warp! If you sand it a bit and slowly introduce it back to moisture, the fibers don't seem to get this shock and don't warp as fast. I hope it makes more sense now.

frank down under

you are welcome to your opinion.

This process is described in many articles online and in a book i read on reed modification. Basically you're doing VERY little sanding, which is what you need from a new reed, helping it stay flat and blocking the fibers so that it won't get waterlogged easily. You have to do it to see the difference, you'll see it shining and smooth.

thanks for responding. I don't think that previous commenter even plays the instrument. Some people just want to mess with other people. Shake your confidence. I almost blocked him, but then I wouldn't be able to think you. Cheers and have a great fall.

He plays alto sax, clarinet, guitar, trumpet, sousaphone, violin and piano.

I just tried this with some old reeds on my desk and can definitely feel a difference, and I like it so far. It's easy enough to do the experiment at home. I had heard about this process before, but didn't know how much I would enjoy the feeling of the reed afterwards. I thought it was about just sealing the reed, and was skeptical too.