thank you..safe journeys to ya

+Bill Rivenbark thanks

yep the same depth and pressure shot to shot ..makes for good groups

Rammer...not rammed. Spell check is killing me! This is one of the most important videos I've ever seen on this subject.😄

thank you very much i have a new series coming i am going to be testing the bullets from eras gone .36 and .44 it should be a real eye opener

thanks hope to have more videos in the future

They are so big in Alaska, that they use them to drill for oil.

Keep up the good work, Blackie. Your videos are both informative and entertaining; among the best.

glad to help

fair warning..once you get one...your gonna want another one..lol...safe journeys

navy arms made lots of good stuff i have owned many of the products over the yrs

THANKS AND WELCOME TO THE CHANNEL..SAFE JOURNEYS

Glad it was helpful!

i have done that but with a brass carrage bolt head

Thank you kindly!

here is link to mine where i do a total breakdown and talk of how to smooth the action..since yours is a heavy pull i bet its a burr on the sear or trigger hope this helps kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ipqaiNCbp5u1iqs.html

Thanks for your reply. When I first got this revolver, 2 weeks ago, I used your video as a tutorial and stripped my gun down and did all the things you showed on that video. There were several burrs which I removed and the revolver's action was considerably smoother when I finished. However, the trigger pull is still very heavy. Would a main spring that is excessively tight increase the trigger pull ? I just guessed at how tight the main spring screw should be and adjusted it until the action felt smooth when cocking the hammer.

+sackett68 the 1858 is antiqued..the other gun is just 30yrs of use

the .31's are know for weak main springs try ordering a new one..and see if that cures it..if not do what mark hubbs of eras gone bullet molds did put both springs together and see if that works

hmm a taper from breach to muzzle would allow it you land .grip rifling..and then exit at proper size much like the original progressive rifling..if the taper is 450 at breach and up to 363 at muzzle that one needs to go back cause the rounds will not slug up well enough to fill that gap

no i have not i have had and used them before..but have not done a video on them

I guess the way the manual reads is, you should use .454”/.457”. So I will not use the .451. But do you think it would make a difference between the .454 or the .457? And thank you again

@Paul M. Here is what I know from a variety of dealers and shooters. The bottom line is to use .454 and those are as common as .451 or .457. Im told you can get away with .451 if nothing else is possible but that you should go to the trouble to get .454. There are a variety of online sources for it, just look around. The prices in Nov 21 are about $13/100. The Uberti manual says .454/.457 but Im told the .457 isnt necessary and is too tight a fit to load. Its 3 years on since your comment, what did you finally do?

@@cvcoco I ended up finding the . 454. And that's all I use. And I use Swiss black powder . And everything is really good. Thank you for your great advice

@@paulm.6966 I could have also said that guns are not all the same and the different sizes can be tried. Cylinders arent sloppily made but 1 or 2/1000th is easy to be wrong about in the machines. Rifle barrels are commonly off when you compare to each other and they sell sizing kits so you can determine YOUR barrel size and buy those bullets. In the pistol world there are two places the bullet has to fit and people go by the cylinder size. If I remember right, the bullet is correct if it takes 20lbs of force to seat it in the cylinder, then its good enough for the forcing cone of the barrel to take over. I think the manuals say 454 or 457 to account for differences in the exact size that the user has to determine, not that you can or should use 451, 454 and 457 all in the same cylinder at the same time. What the mfrs know is that one of them will definitely be right. Would it be great if they tested each gun and left a notice in the box before shipping? Sure!

Glad it was helpful!

guns could be had with what ever barrel the buyer wanted..check out the avenging angels sometime..they had one inch barrels..i have seen in a collection a 36 in barrell .36 navy with rifle sights ..and a snub nose 58

blackoracle69 I want an avenging angel. I didn't know they were a real thing back then though. It makes me want one even more now.

glad you liked it

for woods carry as a companion i prefer the 5 inch for its compact size..and ease of handling..for target work i like the 8 for its longer sight radius..both perform equally well out to 25 yrs..at that point the 8 starts to have a advantage

thanks for an answer, i will go with the 8 inch, i am planning to load 30 grains of black powder, then 15 grains of semolina, a little bit of nivea cream on that, .454 ball greased with nivea cream and nivea on top to prevent chain fire, what do you think?

the pellets produce good power and seem to shoot well..but like you mentioned..often you have to seat the ball further down the cyl to compress and avoid airspace..in most guns it does not hurt accuracy..but in some i have seem it wreck accuracy..my advice is to try them and read and follow the makers advice..hope it goes well for ya..safe journeys

they should i lube mine the same way and it has proven to help

Dan. I use cream of wheat, corn meal and grits for a filler but not wheat flower. Lot easier to load. Dump some in and flow out enough to make room for the bullet. For lube I use poop lube ( wax in a toilet drain pipe seal, Johnny Ring) or the red wax that covers Baby Gouda cheese. Both are handy for waxing other stuff as well.

i have not found it to cause problems..it can if parts are not proper heat treated

yes it can be done..but the best way to do it would be to seat the ball into the case and then into the cyl..

Thanks. i know the best way is to buy a 629 SW and load with speedloaders. Just wondering if loading a case short of a bullet and loading ball over the top? Could the case be sealed with wax or something and what powder would be used? Thanks again, i enjoy your videos.

the 1861 is in 36 cal both the 1861 1851 and 1860 all have that scene on the cyl. if the barrel has info on the side it should be a pietta if it is under the barrel it should be a uberti just guessing

@@blackoracle69 So I stand corrected , I have an 1860 army because the cylinder has the thicker reinforcement on the front part of the cylinder. Since the engraving is on the bottom of the barrel , I'm calling it a Uberti. Thanks very much for your help.

1860 should same frame

thanks..i try to pass on what i have learned ..safe journeys

+JAson Gross to antique it i stripped the blue with burchwood caseys blueing remover..then i used steelwool on all surfaces..i then applied a coat of browning (sold like blueing) and added a very light coat of blueing after the fact..allow it to rust over night steel wool it..and apply lube to prevent rusting..thats what i did with mine

thanks for the tip

you are correct...just my southern twang getting in the way...thanks for the comments..safe journeys

sounds like the hand is hitting the top of its slot..when the cyl. is in place it pushed the hand further in and allows it to clear and rotate..just my guess..safe journeys

Hello again I broke my 1861 down all the way and the hand was a pain to put back in and I noticed before and after the breakdown that the hand is rubbing the arbor at the 4 o’clock position. The hand shouldn’t be touching the arbor at all right???

it should slide past it..a burr at the arbor may be hanging up the hand on its path

try 457..often these are marked for the ruger..if that does not work look to dixie gun works they make round ball moulds in lots of odd sizes

If bigger balls don’t work then you could also try putting thin wads over the balls. I believe I’ve seen someone do it before with no trouble. I think they did it as a way to prevent chain fires but they might keep the balls in place.

+jeffgail99 that video is coming in the near future..thanks for watching

the face of the rammer can be reshaped to improve that..often if the face of the ball is warped or distorted it will effect groups

@@blackoracle69 so there shouldn't be no mark on the ball at all, i figured, just wanted to make sure before I grinded on the blued steel

@@blackoracle69 i do believe ive watched every video you have on the topic. Great information and so much of it. Thank you for all of the advice

there will be some marks..but make sure its now a out of round ..or heavy to one side sort of thing

glad you have found it of use ..now that the holidays are over i can get back to shooting videos..stay tuned lots more to come with the percussion revolver series

the 51 / 61 navy is a fine small game gun and it would serve up close as a defence gun

Thanks a bunch.

I would second this. The 51 Navy is one of my favorite percussion revolvers. A little powder and lead go a long way yet the pistol packs plenty of punch for small game. It is a natural pointer, seeming almost like an extension of my arm. As a defensive arm, it seemed to work just fine for guys like Wild Bill Hickock and Civil War combatants.

I like the Remington 1858 like he's showing on this video. I think it's stronger frame than the Colt. But I think the Colt looks better though.

I often hear people talk about how the Remington has a stronger frame than the Colt. What does this mean and why do they think this matters. Have we seen a lot of Colt frame failures? Are we planning on using our pistols as hammers?

i know I'm pretty off topic but do anyone know a good site to watch new movies online ?

@Jayceon Santana Lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google =)

@Colby Franklin yup, I've been using flixzone for since march myself =)

@Colby Franklin thank you, signed up and it seems like a nice service =) I appreciate it !!

@Jayceon Santana happy to help xD

cabelas has them..right now for 269.00

nope just the antique finish i applied to it

Ho nice , it's gorgeous ! And thanks for the quick answer , have a nice day

use a standard paper clip and open it up ..use the wire to go down inside the nipple and clean out the flash channel..see if that helps

@@blackoracle69 just for future reference, mailed capnball revolvers come in covered in some sort of oil, probably petroleum based, and it also gets in the nipples. After 2 full cylinder loads my problem was gone. Thanks blackie!