People don't even look at their payload when they are trying to determine the suitability of their trucks to tow. It is a huge uphill battle to get them to even give a passing thought to how any modification might affect that ability.

Lifted, leveled with giant hooptie wheels and tires is common. Folks will sacrifice everything for the look they want. I asked someone why he modded his truck. He said, “I don’t want my truck to look like an old mans truck.”

this was awesome. Next, do a video on how stupid it is to install wheel spacers.

I've watched TFL for years and I can honestly say that it is one of the best channels. Not only is it entertaining, it is highly informative. So many people travel unsafe. I get slack from many when going on trips because I pay attention to GVWR, payload, GCWR, my axle ratings, etc... but in the end, the outcome of not paying attention to these highly important metrics is the difference between breaking down, getting stranded or even causing injury to yourself or others. Excellent episode!

Another thing people don’t think about is when they put on bigger tires, the speedometer and odometer are off. Unless they do something to correct it, it throws the vehicle speed and actual mileage off. Also, too much lift without compensating will put strain on your front CV joints, affect the driveshaft angles, etc.

Spending time on Reddit forums, people really don’t care about towing safety. People laughed at me when I suggested they weigh their rig at a cat scale because I said it looks improperly distributed.

Good news is that 95% of people that lift and modify their trucks never take them off-road or tow/haul anything. Worst obstacle they see is a curb or speed bump, but braking can be problematic in a emergency if much larger tires are fitted.

Good info guys. As the former owner of a Tacoma it seems that the aficionados of that platform (hello overlanding?) are some of the most obvious offenders for these issues. Doing the math: given the 950 pound payload (which my truck had), over half of that is taken up by a fiberglass shell, the driver and one passenger. After one extended camping trip in an admittedly overloaded condition, I was very ready to move onward and upward in size. My current F250 may be considered "overkill" for someone who doesn't plan on towing heavy bud I'd rather err in this direction than be caught short.

The engineers created the truck a certain way in order to optimize its structural longevity and overall performance. I have lifted and/or leveled almost every truck I have owned. The added height combined with a larger wheel and tire looked great but any advantages gained from the lift were eventually lost in unnecessary mechanical component wear and tear, coupled with deviation of the factory steering and handling. IMO, staying stock is the better choice.

I love these technical explanations of truck engineering and capabilities. Interesting and informative. Thanks.

If you asked most people in the state where I reside "What can haul more? A bicycle, a truck or a 747?" The general response is going to be "What kind of truck?" followed immediately by "Is it lifted?"

University of Nebraska Lincoln conducts guardrail rollover testing... look into lifted trucks results vs guardrails... it's eye opening.

I like running my stock size tires. Better mileage, handling and acceleration. I didn't buy my truck to feel beefy or macho 😂 some people their vehicle becomes their personality though

It also astonishes me how many people add a bunch of weight to their rigs and never touch the brakes. It's often ignored in favor of performance or cosmetic upgrades, but your vehicle still has to slow down and stop effectively, particularly on mountain passes.

The only "mods" I've made to my 2002 Silverado 1500HD were adding step rails to assist with climbing in and out of the cab, a 2013 step corner rear bumper to replace the rusted-out bumper, LED fog lamps, and tow mirrors with heating capability. None of these affected the truck at all, but definitely helps with climbing in or out of the cabin or the bed. I was told that I "should" lift my truck to "make it look so much more cooler," and thankfully, I never followed through with the trouble of lifting it. The reliability of the truck is what I wanted, and it's performed quite well when towing/hauling reasonable loads. Never mind the fact that the 6.0L V8 is a gas guzzler with the 4L80E and 3.73 (I think... Got the spec sheet somewhere and my old mind is starting to slip a lil...) gear axle ratio, it's a solid daily driver that's kept giving me performance without question. Needs a bit of work since it was a former Ohio plow truck, but wouldn't trade it in for anything else. Thank you, André, for this VERY informative episode because it keeps me grounded in my decision to NOT lift the truck or put bigger tires on it. 🙂

I deal with a lot of Hot Shotters, it's crazy to me when they arrive in a lifted 3/4 or 1 ton. With big ass tires. I have tried to explain to the drivers several of the points that have brought up in this video. They don't care. Drive away with 7k load max on a goose neck, their ass end sagging like I loaded them with twice the weight. Honestly scares me more that DOT does nothing about it

Great video. I've always thought that the 1/2 ton trucks were the hardest working vehicle in America. Poor things doing 8 lug work.

If you are towing the lower the ratio of trailer to tow rating the better. If you are above 75% of the rated tow rating you are getting close to the point where you need a bigger truck. Even without vehicle modifications.

Anecdotally most guys lift trucks and install bigger wheels with more negative offset and bigger tires for the look. That’s great - if you’re in high school cruising the mall - but as said by experts in the video you may be risking safety and liability. Folks who actually use their trucks off-road can make a good argument for more capability but might want to consider a rig factory designed to meet their needs.

Issues you skipped.... Worth thinking about. This one affects handling and steering. The leverage ratio changes on the springs on ifs when lift spacers are added. The spring rate will change. Also usually maxes out the camber adjuster at about 2 inches of lift, making alignments difficult. The wheel spacer or offset affects the scrub radius of the wheel and lever ratio on the spring in the ifs components. . Wheel spacer or offset changes this as well as bearing load. The sway bar ratio is also changed this is on just ifs set ups. Now you can see how much this can vastly affect handling, but there are things you can do. I have more, but this is enough to get you thinking.

The single most limiting and defining aspect on a trucks GVWR is its braking power. Larger tires are more leverage and momentum on your brakes to stop the vehicle and you have to be cognizant of how hard you are making your brakes work with how you load your truck. The tires can carry 14000 lbs on a SRW truck, but no truck is rated that high because of its braking limitations. The axles are strong enough to carry more weight, the frame is built to support well over design load, and the truck will let you know if you start to overheat it. Braking is the factor you have no warning and only a weight rating to go by on how effective that system is. If you do any mods, find an empty road and test your brakes, see how they changed. Lockup power, distances and to ensure it doesn’t totally fail under a high load situation.

Off-set wheel spacing is really hard on wheel bearings. The load is no longer directed over the bearing and instead there is a prying effect on the bearings over what it was designed for.

Sad thing is (at least here in NC) people are modifying 3/4 and 1 tons and occasionally using them for “work”. I’ve regularly seen these pulling skid steers etc I really unsafe conditions. 2 years ago a child was killed in a Raleigh Christmas parade when a severely modded truck lost control pulling a trailer. I’m not sure exactly what went wrong but a stock truck would have never done what I saw on the video.

One of the things that gets me is in the RV industry how clueless they are on towing at the dealerships. The camper we upgraded to two years ago ended up being 250 pounds heavier on the tongue weight than advertised. That seems to be common among the industry. I ended up having to get larger weight distribution bars, and I modified my truck with a class five hitch on an F150 and heavier duty springs. Deals to say, I have Max out the capacity of my truck because of the camper

Great topic! So many people won’t give it a second thought. I’ve even heard people say that lifting their truck makes it stronger so it can tow more. Although I know better, I’ve never been able to explain it. Now, I’ll just send them to watch this video!

This should be required educational material for ANYONE in vehicle sales, RV/Camper sales, and off road parts sales.

I have never understood lifting a truck. They have people with Phds to figure out the best and most efficient way for a truck to be configured. And here comes some mouth breather with some kit to make them higher off the ground. If you want to go off the road to that degree get an ATV.

It will never cease to amaze me that anyone would spend the amount of money it takes to buy a truck and modify it without a plan, but clearly it happens. 🤷‍♂️ I examined payload and GVWR capacities based on trim levels, and considered tire sizes, gear ratios, and intended accessory weights before I even started hitting dealerships to get my truck ordered.

I see a lot of yahoos around here with lifted one ton diesels pulling 5th wheels. The truck is squatted badly, and the front axle of the 5th wheel is off the ground putting much of the trailer weight on the rear axle, the axle that usually doesn't have trailer brakes, or has them also, reducing the stopping power to zero if no rear axle trailer brakes or 50% with. Back 30 years ago, the rating on a truck was based on a stripped single cab work truck, no frills. Add a back seat or an extended cab, penalize weight capacity; add 4x4, penalize more. Add fancy interior, heavy tires, bumpers, step rails. before ya know it, you have NO hauling capacity.

This video stopped me from getting larger tires for my f250 with a slide in truck camper. Thank you. 1-2 inches of extra clearance doesn't sound worth the consequences.

I've got to say that this was quite the informative video. Thank you guys

This reminds me of the episode of the guy who had the Gladiator built, completely maxed out. The guy was laughing that it weighed 9000 lbs after all the mods were done. That thing is a rolling disaster waiting to happen. Australia has some very tight restrictions on 4x4 vehicles down there. Be considered lucky that none of that has come here…….. yet.

Awesome Video and Interviews👍🏼 definitely a good reminder for truck owners, it’s for your own good vibes…safe trucking

It is crazy how much so many truck buyers spend on their trucks to make them look more capable but actually make them less capable. They will argue about performance specs or capabilities between brands while the entire time not considering how much they have cut those very same capabilities. They reduce stability with lift kits raising the center of gravity only to gain minimal additional ground clearance they will rarely if ever need, add constant stress to the engine and transmission by changing the torque dynamics with larger tires, and reduce payload by adding weight all over the place. They may look "bad ass", but they are wimps compared to the same stock truck.

Great conversation to be having. It is smart of you to think of these things and share the information with us. Keep up the good work.

I learned so much on this episode. Thank you & more power! Watching from the Philippines...😊

Gameplan: buy larger truck than needed just to have bandwidth for performance downgrades. More money, less capability

That is a great video. Thanks. I will be using this one to help educate people

Really good information here! Thank you so much Andre 👍

Andre, valuable information that we all seem to forget. One big one you missed is max towing w/o a WD hitch. There are F-150s that can tow over 10K but the hitch is limited to 5K by Ford. Meaning, if you want to tow 6K trailer, you are required to use a WD hitch. GM and Ram are the same. They really like to hide that fact because it's not easy to market. It would be good to discuss this when you conduct Ike tests as you regularly max the towing.

Outstanding presentation. Every truck I’ve ever lifted was overall compromised by the lift, with the exception of the 1” lift on my LC200.

Thank you! TFL is known for great reviews, but THIS is quality reporting and knowledge transfer. Love these videos!

the problem with lifted trucks is 99% of people that do it are just able to afford the truck and the lift and not able to afford the other things needed to correctly do it

Excellent and focused point driven video. Extremely helpful! Thx

I had always assumed this was the case but never had any good rules of thumb so I just stayed away from lifted used vehicles. Thanks for the information.

Having spent 20 years involved in the heavy truck industry with the last 15 directly involved in specifying trucks doing very heavy vocational work, (twin steer tri drive, planetary 45ton rear axles etc etc) can someone explain why the GAWR’s of pickup truck axles can add up to a number greater than the GVWR? How this math works in the little truck world would be an interesting video subject. I honestly don’t know. As far as the “blame the sales person” mantra - I bought a new slide in truck camper. When I fell in love with my chosen camper in the showroom the next question from the sales person was “What truck…?” on delivery the dealership presented me with a document to sign that stated I would install said camper on a truck with sufficient payload and wheelbase to carry the camper with the centre of gravity in an approved location, along with instructions on weighing the truck and camper with respect to calculating safe trailer weights.

Another great video from TFL Truck! Thank you for educating us!

Wow, Andre great job. This was a very insightful video. Thank you for putting this together.

Trucks were engineered to function stock soon as you change height or tire width it stresses the chassis.

90% of people hearing this after installing bigger tires and a lift kit. “Cool story Bro, my next set will be even bigger” 👍🏼

How many people with lifted trucks have a full sized spare? If you.have 35s or 37s and you use the stock spare, that wheel will be going faster than the other ones and ruin some things in your truck.

Great, informative video Andre! Keep up the great work! 👏🙌

30+ years as a tech, several at an ORI retailer, trucks left stock, wheels, tires, suspension always last longer, get better fuel economy, and have less wheel bearing, brake transmission, and steering component wear. It's just the facts.

Great topic and video! Thank you!

i have a 14 ram 3500hd single cab srw that is lifted with 33s and i use it for plowing/salting. it has a payload of 2 ton and up until this year i would put the 2 yd sander on the tailgate leaving a few feet for salt bags. i would have a 9 foot plow on the front, about 30 50lb salt bags and 2 yd of salt/sand. that would put the total added weight anywhere from 5k-6klbs. the truck handled it like it wasnt even there, kinda. if it werent for the truck having a leveling kit anyway. so yea, loaded up like that it did squat a bit. never felt unsafe driving it around though. i dont carry salt bags anymore so now a days im closer to 4-5klbs. been doing this for quite a few years now no problem. i do plan on adding super springs though to reduce squat.

Awesome video! I bought a new F350 Tremor despite the fact I could've bought a stock 350 and upgraded it for cheaper mostly because of the warranty and liability that comes with buying it factory-installed. I'd rather not have to worry about whether or not the truck and components will hold up to our work and play.

Excellent video!

I'm pretty sure i never heard braking mentioned!?!? Definitely keep brakes in mind! Definitely needs upgrades if lifting and adding bigger tires, wheels etc

This is the type of video that keeps me subscribed thank you

We need to go back to the old days. K truck style bed that is actually functional. Not being able to reach into the bed on new trucks, even compact trucks drives me crazy

I've got a copy of a letter from FoMoCo to Ford dealers dated 2004 advising them not to install oversized wheels and tires or lifts on new pickup trucks unless the parts are Ford or Ford Performance and warning that such modifications affect acceleration, braking and handling and can put severe stress in excess of design limits on other parts of the trucks. The letter stated FoMoCo would not warrant claims that could be traced to these modifications.

Top notch video! Thanks guys.

Its crazy to me that folks think these vehicles are just thrown together. The amount of R&D and engineering involved is insane. To think you can bolt on some silly cheap accessories, cold air intakes, spaces, blocks, huge tires, turbos, straight pipe exhausts, suspension parts, or chips and figure there, i made it better! Lol gotta be sensible in what you’re doing… add beefier but stock parts, or actual possibly needed improvement upgrades like catch cans or any OEM upgrades. Even with things like catch cans you gotta be careful… especially living in colder climates or with watching your maintenance intervals.

Great information from AEV this is why I got a 3500 ram diesel. Just a leveling kit and stay well within the capabilities of the truck. Also maintenance and driving habits make a huge difference.

Thank you very much for producing this video. Liked and subscribed.

Up here in British Columbia, there is an issue with insurance for lifted(modified) trucks that most truck owners here are not aware of. The government run insurance plan, the Insurance Corporation of British Columbia, here requires that anybody with a vehicle that is lifted 4" or more must be registered with I.C.B.C. and this has to be in the policy description. Whether or not that would be grounds for them to deny paying out to cover a crash damaged truck, I don't know. But, if I had a truck lifted here, I would register it as modified. Owners that I have spoken to here that have lifted trucks had no idea about this requirement.

Of all of my friends with trucks I only knew one to actually haul stuff around. He also had a lifted truck, dude had a ramp cause the bed was so high he couldn’t lift heavy objects into it lmfao. He also had a little step installed by the doors to get into the car. It was so silly. Trucks are for hauling and work… raising the bed makes all of that harder. That’s like purposely modding a sports car to be less aerodynamic or to drive slower. Makes zero sense

Great topic! I don’t think most people think about this at all.

My pet peeve with lifted trucks are the blinding headlights. When their headlights are at the same level as my windshield, no amount of adjustment will correct it.

I had 3 lifted trucks. The last one had 22s wrapped in 37s. While I did like it , until I had to tow for the first time. Didn't like it. That same day, I got a flat. Bad thing about that was I had a factory spare. So.....I ended up getting rid of it and got a stock truck and left it completely alone. Now I'm happy.

As an owner of a lifted truck i can tell you that as i have aged gettin in and out is no fun. The ride is not as nice on mud tires and long drives wear you out bc good luck getting a proper alignment from any shop! My next truck will be an older (no def)low milage diesel with factory suspension.

I am a farmer with a fleet of more than a dozen pickup trucks, of various sizes and manufacturers, a couple of which have aftermarket suspension upgrades. My 2 cents: It really depends on the application. You really don't reap many benefits from driving a lifted pickup truck on public roads, but then again when you're fighting fires in the forest, or running roughshod over the desert in Afghanistan, you're probably not primarily concerned about aerodynamics or the safety of the other cars on the road. Rims and tires do not effect payload unless the larger tires have a lower load rating. Rims and tires are unsprung weight, meaning the suspension does not bear their weight, and therefore do not effect the ability of the frame or suspension to bear a load. Case in point, some heavy duty pickup truck owners (3/4 ton and larger) are replacing their factory rims and tires with semi-truck rims and tires. You're telling me if that is all I changed, my payload and towing capacity have decreased? Judging by the load rating of semi-truck tires, I seriously doubt it. Suspension lift kits are subject to the quality of the suspension components that were replaced. Some offer higher GCWR, while some reduce overall load capabilities. That is largely subject to the manufacturer. You don't always need to alter the driveline angles either, so again, subject to the manufacturer of the lift kit in question. Do your homework before buying budget lift kits. Aerodynamics, vacuum, and thus fuel economy are a drastically costly expense for the sake of ground clearance. That should be obvious. But depending on the application, such as military vehicles, logging trucks, offroad recovery and emergency vehicles to name a few, GCWR and payload can be be accounted for by designing the vehicle around higher ground clearance. taller suspension, and larger tires. Like Sam said, regulations with respect to road safety and fuel economy are largely the determining factor as to why you can't buy a factory pickup truck on 37's, and it probably makes sense for the safety of other motorists, and the practicality and function of the pickup truck. The potential owner will be far more likely to use their truck the vast majority of the time on-road, often while carrying a payload, or towing a heavy weight. Lowest practical center of gravity, and aerodynamic efficiency are therefore a bigger concern than negotiating obstacles. At the end of the day, you should use the best tool for the job. If you're just driving to work, or towing/carrying the occasional load, lifting your truck probably doesn't make sense. But if you intend on using your truck to go to the farthest reaches of earth, on the harshest terrain, you're probably not going to make it in a factory consumer grade pickup truck designed for highway driving with 9 inches of ground clearance and 2 inches of sidewall on your tires. Just sayin'.

Thanks TFL keep consumers inform about these important safety truck modifications.

Excellent information!

Really well done makes it very clear that people need to think when they want to modify their vehicle.

Thanks Andre for covering this! This type of information is needed from more sources so everyone can be safer.

Thanks TFL for the info all these years. I been towing trailer with empty truck bed most of the time. Through I have the room, but I don't have the capacity.

This is great! I love seeing this issue taken head on and in a professional manner. There are a whole lot of ding dongs out herw lifting their trucks as high as possible as cheap as they possibly can. Same for these big tough looking bumpers.

Very good informative video.

I talk about this all the time...and the goofs running wheel spacers while towing heavy. I've seen quite a few busted trucks with some dumb rich kid wondering why daddy's money didn't build a tougher tow rig.

Theres a Ron Pratt (I think) video of an F250 on it's side. It was lifted with aftermarket suspension work and aftermarket wheels and large tires. It was pulling a 19-20K pound 5th wheel. It showed clearly what not to tow with a lifted truck, let alone a way under rated truck for the trailer. The driver was driving too fast for the area, and blew through a late yellow as someone made a turn to clear. He couldn't stop, and in trying to go around the other, lost control and the trailer just pushed the truck right over. Both truck and trailer were new, so someone sold the dude a pile of BS.

What a nice time of the video 😮. Ruined my build. Bought Roush Performance Fox 2.0 kit a couple of weeks ago. ($2,100 + 1K CAD for installation) Keeping factory tire size and 1.75” of lift instead of 2”. And yes, best decision ever !!!!😊

Great video, brought up a lot of good talking points. The government though also has a lot to do with GVWR. They choose those numbers for registration and classification purposes. When I was purchasing a 3/4 ton truck in 2017 most of them were all listed at 10,000lbs. Ford, Chevy, Ram. There is no way that each of them were exactly capable of exactly 10,000lbs. I am sure all of them would pass at 10,000lbs but scientifically I also know that if they were actually tested then their max numbers would all be slightly different. DOT used to cap class 2 trucks at 10K and once you went over that number on the registration then it would now be considered a class 3 truck meaning different qualifications and standards for registration. I am not an expert by any means but if you do what they discuss in this video and account for the added weight and subtract that from your stickered GVWR on your truck then you will probably be within the vehicles means.

and these larger tires and suspension lifts also raise the center of gravity which reduces the stability of the truck

If you overdo modifications and massively exceed things like GVWR, your insurance can cancel your insurance for having "illegal modifications" on your vehicle.

It is funny that manufacturers spend millions of dollars on engineering these trucks and then you get some backyard shade tree mechanic that thinks he knows more than them.

Good fact based content!❤

I love the Kevlar brake pads that I got put on my '16 Ram 1500 Quadcab 4wd Ecodiesel. I also got the 3.92 ratio, expecting to put 1"-1.5" larger tires on the truck. I put Bilstein 4600 shocks on the rear with a 2" taller rear spring. Bilstein 5100 shocks set up to lift 2" went on the front. I have added a Ranch Hand bumper on the front. And a camper shell on the back. The worn out front control arms have been replaced with beefier parts from Ready Lift and Mevotech. I use this truck for interstate highway travel in any weather and some mild overland adventures. Our 2018 Ram 2500 Crewcab 4wd with the beastly 6.7L, carries a Hawk model 4wheel popup camper. For now we have Bilstein shocks, upgraded brake pads, PPE transmission oil pan, and the Bank's Monster Ram air horn to avoid the dreaded grid heater bolt failure. We look forward to an AED lift kit in the future, and a gear change for 35" tires. The payload recommendation. Also takes in consideration the likelyhood of more aggressive driving in harsh conditions, after the modifications.

Thank you for information watch you guys long time appreciate all

You mean to say that raising a vehicles center of gravity makes it worse at handling weight, increases wind resistance, increases your stopping distance, and decreases gas mileage. Also, if you don't understand that adding bigger wheels and tires increases your un-sprung weight and rolling resistance and also decreases your GVWR and payload capacity, you should probably shouldn't be towing anything. And, in case everyone needs to hear it; airbags and overload springs don't increase your vehicle's payload or towing capacity. Even if your aftermarket equipment is rated to handle what you're using it for, just wait until your insurance company tells you to go pound sand when you get in an accident. I love the aftermarket industry, but unfortunately way too many people just start throwing stuff on their truck without really thinking about the impact. I worked in the aftermarket industry for decades, and it's very deceiving how much weight little things can add. If you throw on a tonneau cover, spray-in bedliner and some running boards, you just used up about 175lbs of your payload capacity. Then you add some tools, a couple of receiver hitch draw bars, and you have another 100 lbs. If you're towing heavy and close to your GVWR and/or payload, weigh your truck with a full tank of gas and save yourself some headaches down the road.

One of the things I like about the 2023 Tacoma is they finally put decent size and brand tires on from the factory. The skinny legs look is gone.

Fantastic video, thanks. Next how about you do one on the engineering that goes into headlight design, and how terrible all of the obnoxious aftermarket bulbs are for other drivers on the road. Just because you want bright blue lights for your '06 Altima doesn't mean you should.

Great video. Thanks!

This is why a factory lift is the best best ...something like the company R.M.T. ( Rocky Mountain Trucks ) they partner with Ford, chevrolet, jeep and Dodge and it doesn't void your warranty.

It's good that you're getting this information out. Funny thing is another YT channel has been preaching this information for years. Almost to deaf ears and the shagrin of many listeners. His channel is focused on RV's. Immediately he goes to the information on the trailer and the truck. Pointing out these very same things. Noting additionally that many RV sales and... aftermarket shops do not inform customers about this information. Because they are more interested in selling their products. Slide in campers are huge culprits in this. Because they are very heavy. When load it your gear your passengers and, all the high end bells and whistles of your expensive new truck...your generally well past the load rate of your truck. So it's good your putting this information out. It really is important that consumers know and understand this. That big shiny new high end 100 thousand dollar truck sitting on the lot. Sure looks beautiful but many people are dramatically surprised to learn... it can barely (by its approved rating) haul itself around ! Let alone a load from the lumber lot or the boat and RV the consumers want to haul with it. So yes.. go bigger F450.. GM / DODGE 5500... AND LEAVE IT IN STOCK CONDITION !

Wow at 24 minutes in the driver of the truck camper combo cuts off a semi... I bet the semi driver really loved that

Question. So I go to a dealer I see brand new lifted trucks. is the door stickers still valid? Who put those stickers on & who did the lifting for new trucks at dealers?

AND .... if you are lifting your truck, get bigger diameter and stronger all-Titanium Alloy axles and alloy transfers cases with aerospace-grade stainless steel fully-cyrogenically-hardened gearing and new Titanium Alloy wheels, new heavier duty springs AND some high-performance Liquid Spring suspensions! I would ALSO weld reinforcing T-rails and i-rails all along the frame to increase tensile/torsion/flexion/compressive strength on major underbody and under-frame parts. Then blueprint the engine block and add ceramic liners and new cryo-hardened pistons, new valves, cryo-hardened camshafts and drive chain components to allow for higher engine temperatures and higher boost pressures. You can then increase payloads and towing abilities! And NO!, what I'm saying it isn't an insane thing to do to your truck but rather it's 30+ years of automotive/aerospace experience and high-technology software systems, CNC machining, 3D printing and specialty welding system capabilities! V

Andre: Go big if you want to tow with bigger tires; get a 1-ton Also Andre: Personally bought an off-road spec mid-size on larger tires for towing a big boat 😂

I got a 2020 z71 trailboss and im not messing with it i have plenty of ground clearance and i enjoy getting 20-21 highway mpg