Thank you for watching, glad you enjoyed!

Thank you!

You shouldn't have siding under a door. If space between bottom of door and step, should be a trim or kick plate. Cut it out. Seal it with cement and cement sealer.

Thank you for watching. This was the first instructional video I did after a lot of questions from local people there are several more being made now. I’ve been towing around with the idea of running a couple seminars in our area in Yardley PA. I’ll keep you posted. You can always reach out to my office Fox landscape designs give them your information. Thanks again for watching working on KZfaq channel

Great idea. Yes it was originally set up that way. However the costumes were very persistent on making us change it. I really wanted to get paid at the end of the project so we moved it in to feet. I do agree I would’ve made it larger.

Yes, I base out my Cambridge steps with Cambridge filler block.

I just asked basically the same question as you, I'm still reviewing all comments and still do not see the answer

It is not a good idea to mortar paver block. PL glue would be the best option for a set of paver steps on a stone foundation. If you are building a 3 foot concrete base under it than mortar is a possibility. With that being said, you will be getting a lot of different people saying different things on KZfaq, but a true paver set of steps on a 7" 3/4 modified stone base built to specs only glue should be used. PS I've been doing this 25 years and have never had a problem.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign I need a two step height exactly like that in illinois. Please, tell me about how much someone would charge me to do it. I'd much rather have that than plain cement.

@@RogerBrenon please send a picture of the area to foxlandscapedesigns@gmail.com and include length and width of step.

@@FoxlandscapeDesignis it necessary to lay geo grid before laying blocks or stone?

SRW rapid set.

Thank you for watching! The blocks that we use most of the time for basing out these steps and wall are Cambridge Filler Block. They are a solid 6" block, not 8". We like using them because of their consistent size; work for a perfect base.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign Thanks for the reply!

Yes, always flash where possible moisture could build up

Yes, we use 3 quarter modified as a base minimum of 8". We do not use hand tampers we use jumping jacks or power tampers. With a rapid set glue you can tamp as you build.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign I'm not referring to your base. I'm asking -- There is a massive hole by the door at the 2:45 mark of the video...what are you filling that with? That hole is over two feet deep. At the 2:50 mark of the video I can see compacted rocks in there, but are you filling that entire two foot deep hole with compacted rocks? Thanks

Hi Stephen, are you referring to the sand on the pavers? If you are, we use a concrete sand, maximum of 3/4 inches, on top of our stone base. Once pavers are laid, polymeric sand is swept on top and tamped to the proper compaction. The bottom sand rises and meets with the top sand and creates a true interlocking paver.

The steps are built out of Cambridge 6 inch matrix block. The blocks that are being used for the base course are Cambridge filler block.

It all depends on where the customer wants the steps built. That will determine how far it is away from the foundation. All block should touch the foundation to start.

Code says 3/4" - 1 1/4"

Hello, we compact it the large void with three-quarter modified stone tamp every 2 inches. This project was a poured concrete wall with stucco, so no need for any basement ceiling. If you have a block wall, I would recommend ice and water shield after we tar it still apply to stone compact with the pavers pitched away from the house and you will never get any water

Every job is different!

The top pieces are 2.25" thick Bluestone Treads. All of our step projects vary in price based on size and materials.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign how much did this particular project cost?

Yes, normally we have two guys with grinders when we’re doing big retaining walls to keep our levels. We have a retaining wall video coming up soon. You’ll see guys in the background grinding. Thank you.

Hi Melissa, The bluestone treads are two inches thick, by eight foot long by 16 inches wide. THe 16 inch makes a much nicer stepping area.

This is not a CMU block that you mortar, this is a Cambridge 6 inch paver block that are glued together. CMU block will need a 3 foot footing with rebar and mortar. Cambridge paver block needs a 9 inch stone foundation and glue, big difference between both block on installation and price.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign gotcha..thanks

I would worry more about trapping moisture between the stucco and plywood on this type of step. This job was a poured concrete foundation. Once the step is built and pavers are set very little if any water will be able to get behind the area.

I am considering a similar job. But I'm worried about burying the weep screed. The patio will run about 25' along the house. having no way to seal that wall to patio joint , water will surely get in there in this high wind/rain exposed house.. wondering if the correct way is to cut the stucco above the patio and install a new weep screed?

@@ChrisDavis-kr4ls yes. That is the correct way. We would also ice and water shield the area behind and under the patio.

Thank you!!

Yes, that would last if you are building a CMU wall with mortar and stone veneering the steps. However, when you are hired to build a segmental wall, this is the proper way of doing it. Thank you for watching.

thank you for the information however, these are not masonry steps. when we here at Fox landscape Designs, build masonry steps on a 3 foot footing with CMU block you were absolutely correct we pin into the foundation. this project as it states building a paver step is built out of 6 inch paver block, pinned and glued together with a 9 inch stone foundation two totally different types of projects but thank you for your comment

This railing was custom-made, and then we came back and drilled into the pavers with the proper hard. Basic concrete bolts powder coated

Yes I agree that is the funny part. I am a mason by trade. However by building the wall with a 10 inch stone base and all block on the step is a much better way than what most people are building them now. The specs on these walls are not to be built over 4 feet so that’s not quite to the moon. And I agree I would much rather pour a footing and use cmu block but most people don’t wanna pay 50% up charge to do that type of work when they can install paver step for half the cost. Half the cost half the life.

Thank you code enforcement. The railing company template the steps the day we finished the day we took this video. They are making it and installing within 5 days. Every step is different and they need to be custom. But thank you for your concern! :)

You might want to watch the video again. All block is split and over lapped. Enjoy looking for imperfections on our block work. Get a cushion for your seat. You’ll be there a while.

Hello Mike, thank you for your feedback. I am aware of the double sided block that we used on this project. However, in our zone 7 here in Bucks County, PA it is very common that we get 70+ degree weather and then 15 degree weather in short time periods, which i'm sure you understand would be a freezing problem. With a dry lay Cambridge paver installed on top of the tread area by leaving the blocks open as we did, this helps with drainage at a quicker rate. Thanks again for your feedback, follow us if you would like to build quality projects.

Hello Mason King, The proper way to install a CMU block wall would be with a reinforced concrete footing 3 foot in depth so you are correct about that. However this is a Paver step by installing a stone base you will meet manufacturer requirements to not void any warranties on the manufacturer block. If our customer wanted to spend 35% more I would have blocked it.. but thank you for your knowledge on the project!

Thank you. Great eye. Not sure I would have ever seen that. Just playing. The customers are sometimes right. This customer did not want a 16’ landing to center the door. They wanted it build the same way as the old step was installed. I agreed with them and install two water features on that side. Enjoy the next video.

If you look up manufacturer specs, along with the engineering specs of how to build a true segmental retaining wall (paver walls) these products are meant to be constructed on top of 3/4 inch modified stone. I can go on and on about building these types of walls in poor drainage areas and perfectly dry areas. If you would like me to send the specs for segmental walls, let me know, I can personally email them to you.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign I think Mike Haddock would disagree. I’ve seen the paved stairs fail after two years. The caulk used doesn’t last creating a fall hazard. You can’t mount handrail to them. Stairs should be laid in mortar.

@@edwardcomiskey6556 Once again not sure what your talking about with handrails! I can run a seminar for you one day if you would like to send me all your questions. I have been doing this for 25 years and have never had a set of steps fall apart. We don't use caulk on any of our products. :)

@@FoxlandscapeDesign “Once again” I’ve never spoken to you before. I’m in the trades since 1981, so take a breath pup. Just today I installed a composite handrail on a three year old block wall staircase that felt stable. Once the post was anchored, I gave it the old stress test, only to have the same result as always, the glue, caulk, whatever you landscapers use failed, and I must come back and clean off the block and anchor it the proper way using mortar. You are putting folks in danger building stairs out of retaining wall blocks this way. This is the same situation every time I install my railings. The glue fails!

@@FoxlandscapeDesign 2:37😂

Thank you for your recommendation. We have over 25+ years of experience, properly installed projects and satisfied customers ;)

@@FoxlandscapeDesign I stopped working to reply.... Appreciate your response and I just subbed. To each us own brother. By the way we're not too far away I'm here in Newark Delaware

@@Kushert Also if you watch again, that is a 3/4" modified compacted stone, not a clean stone; once compacted, there will be no settlement, water won't even make it through

in our zone seven Pennsylvania I’ve been doing this for over 28 years I have not had a set of steps move yet. Industry standard on paver block is a 6 inch stone base we go nine tamp with a jumping jack these steps will never move.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign okay now that you mention Pennsylvania I'm going to double down on my comment. Those steps will definitely shift. I highly doubt you never had a problem before I guess you need to say that based on your business practices

@@user-ju8sv5pf7f Yes my business practice is paver walls and steps, and CMU block and footing. We do both here at Fox Landscape Designs, if you are a landscaper, I suggest you go to seminars on both of these, they will explain the proper way of installing them and proper specs, if you are a homeowner, and it sounds like you are, please stop choosing the lowest bidder to do your work.

@@FoxlandscapeDesign freeze thaw cycles in this area will definitely cause the steps to shift and break apart without concrete footing

Thank you for your positive feedback on the project that was just finished the moment I took the video. The fencing company that installs our railings on all of our step projects usually customizes and installs railings within a week.