He's a legend and even he couldn't! ... not yet anyway :)

🤣🤣🫠🤣😆

If I could print PEKK and PEKK-CF, I'd be satisfied :')

ya been loving those videos, learning about so many different materials to print with. PCTG sounded really good for a general purpose filament, it is on amazon for about 30 bucks, so about where PLA used to be for the higher end stuff might have to try it eventually.

nice to see you here :)

Possible solution: buy a cheap drawer handle with screws from a hardware store and drill some holes in the door then attach. That's what I did with a flat acrylic door on my custom printer and it works great.

Definitely odd. My XM3 has a well designed handle 🤷🏽‍♀️

@@Jerrie-Lenore This is a better design since it blocks less of your view. Also uses less materials, so more environmentally conscious than you are.

@@legendfpv ?

ya you can run the KAMP before then run everything else. There are other ways to do adaptive bed meshing with a macro instead of running KAMP, but it looks like Qidi is just running vanilla Klipper. Which if you update to v12 has KAMP built into the system now, meaning you can just enable it in vanilla Klipper instead of having a sub routine instead.

At some point you must realize that china exists past comical caricatures right?

You beat me to it. 😅

IP protection does exist and is enforced in China. They just don't care about IP from other countries...

@@BeefIngotdoes it? China is a caricature of itself.

​@@theglowcloud2215 That is a very accurate description

I'm sure they will. His comments were mostly constructive and he's overall positive on the brand. I think it was a good review.

That's the way it works on my X-Max 3, though I don't nearly have as much trouble as the reviewer. I think it would be relatively straight forward to create a small housing with a spring-loaded box cutter or X-Acto knife blade that you can press to cut the filament without removing anything.

Just heat and pull. Video method not required.

Looks like the tabletop is suspended with rubber bands.

Nylon needs to be fed from a filament dryer anyway.

You can just put the filament peg on the back of the printer and throw away the arm.

Might already exist. I got one for the X-Max 3 that printed quickly and just hangs the dryer box from the side after inserting it into one of the handles. No issues and now it's a lot more convenient. Really don't get why companies keep putting 'em on the back. Most of us aren't gonna care about seeing the spool and it makes it much easier to use.

@@redkingrauri3769 The only thing I can think of is that they are expecting these to be used in printer farms with printers side-by-side. That would be the only reason to put it on the back.

New spool holder STLs were live within 24 hours of your comment.

I have the xmax3 as well. What did they send you in an upgrade kit?

@@Andrew.McDonald. I got a new print head cover front & back with an additional fan for better cooling, large flat magnet (way better than those 9 magnets it came with) an induction sensor for bed leveling instead of bltouch.

@@Slydog43UTube awesome, thank you

The Bambu lab printers have had less problems than any printer that I’ve had, if you have problems it will take you to there website and 99% of the time it’s a easy fix that they walk you though. All my Enders and the clones I’m dumping. The new software that is available now for those that want to tinker. The printer has become more open source, the software that Bambu created is very good not something that forces you to move to the community software because it’s junk. Creality, elegoo and Anycubic all have junk software. The Vorn printer is made as a project printer, great printer that you will always be working on for a beginner it’s a nightmare.

@@windforward9810you sound a lot like a bot/paid poster

@@thingswelike no just a retired Disabled Veteran that has a lot of time on my hands. With my injury head it affects my writing ability, spelling and other abilities. I spend a lot of time printing because I can start the print and come back to it later due to length time used to print. I like the Bambu because it almost idiot proof. I think all of the next generation of printers are slowly getting there. To me it’s important that the display be easy to use. The original ender 3 display took me a long time to get used too, was give that printer. My CR-6 SE I have an easier time using than any of the ender 3. Level the older machines give me a lot of problems. So looking at me. I would consider me not a normal user, I did have about 5 years using different CNC machines and I was a machinist in the Navy. I’ve do have a counter your statement are you a representative of the above printer.

Bot for sure.

@@segstron No bot. I’ve been printing a long time, Run CNC machines back in the 90’s. I guess you are a bot for this company. Their is some things I hate about the Bambu if the filament is not dried and the spool adapter you can have a lot a problems, you have to print the Hydra mod to fix most of the problems. I want buy there P1P or P1S because there display screen would give me problems just like the old Enders. I have a CR -6 se display is great, I have to have the auto level because of the head injury the manual is very hard for me to get right. Love my Elegoo resin printers hated the Anycubic M5s. The Elegoo’s resin printers just work just like the GKTwo. I just don’t want to have to constantly work on a machine to make it work. The X1 Carbon fits that, resins are messy but for my miniatures I love them. So I guess not having a thought in your head makes you a bot for Qidi. lol How would I buy this printer no just base on the review here, there are others that are coming out with a AMS unit to match Bambu. The Big elegoo printer I thought about that but looking at the problems with setup and other things I would buy the Qidi before I would get it even though it’s a smaller printer. If you will only buy one mfg items you don’t always get the best product. It just like buy car I bought a VW Jetta to replace my Chevy pickup that I used to make sales calls on loved the pickup hated the gas cost than the changed the diesel formula and it was higher than gas. Loved the Jetta, but I replaced it just like these printers If you marry a brand you are going to miss out on something great. Would I buy other X-1 carbon no because there are other printers that are coming out with a larger build plate. That’s my thoughts.

Qidi actually had one in their release version of x-smart3, but later removed it for some reason.

should i buy this or p1s?

Lol, it's the table. Everything wobbles on my carpet especially when printing so fast. Doesn't affect print quality 😊

Looking at the way the size slots in with the smart series I doubt they will bring out a larger model.

@@petercallison5765 you could be right! Still the way it was said, I could suppose so. Anyway, time will tell, I'll bite the bullet when I'll need it.

In the Orca profiles that were uploaded by Qidi 2 days ago, they refer to the Q1Pro as being a member of the Q family of printers. Take from that what you will.

@@stew675 😮 Nice finding thanks! I'm still torn between the Qidi max 3 or a Troodon v2 pro 350mm³. Say the Arco from Phrozen but I need bigger than 300mm³ for some art projects.

Loving mine on day one!

Also considering the things you would need an active chamber heater for mostly won't work in the AMS anyway! I'm interested, just don't know if I'm $600 interested. Wonder if I could take my X1 and rebuild it with an active chamber heater and the electronics outside the heated area.

@@Eric_Wolfe-Schulte I think the active chamber heater is mostly for ABS and ASA - and these work beautifully from my AMS. Only the warping is bad and I really wish my X1C had a proper chamber heating (heating via the bed tops out at around 40 to 45°C for me).

@@henninghoefer I see it as more for Nylons - admittedly I'm caught up in my own use case here (PCTPE)

What did you do? considering this vs p1s

The previous generation used makerbase boards. Like the bigtreetech manta boards, but the cb1 is integrated into the Mainboard and not plugged into. Most Linux cpus dont have enough input/output suitable for controlling a printer directly, so there is likely a microcontroller responsibility for the xyz motion and bed as well as a separate mcu in the toolhead, connected over a uart connection, not canbus like most think (you can go through the configs of all sold klipper printer from creality, qidi or similar and you won't find any canbus address).

Full auto